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AMATEUR'S PRi*"T!C;.^ ' 


GARDEN-BOOK ( 


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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Chap._._.'::_ Copyrfght No 



Shelf. 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, 



Edited by L, H. Bailey 



THE AMATEUR'S PRACTICAL 
GARDEN -BOOK 



^n^^^ 



THE 

AMATEUR'S PRACTICAL 
GARDEN - BOOK 



CONTAINING THE SIMPLEST DIRECTIONS 
FOR THE GROWING OF THE COMMONEST 
THINGS ABOUT THE HOUSE AND GARDEN 



BYiX 

C. E. HUNN 

AND 

L. H. BAILEY 



THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

LONDON : MACMILLAN & CO., Ltd. 

1900 

All rights reserved 



TTWO COPIES RECEIVED, 

SECOND COPY, 



62488 

Copyright, 1900 
By the MACMILLAN COMPANY 






J. Horace McFarland Company 
Harrisburg, Pa. 



) 



Like the love of music, books and pictures, 
the love of gardens comes with culture and lei- 
sure and with the ripening of the home life. 
The love of gardens, as of every other beautiful 
and refining thing, must increase to the end of 
time. More and more must the sympathies 
enlarge. There must be more points of contact 
with the world. Life ever becomes richer. 
Gardening is more than the growing of plants : 
it is the expression of desire. 

As there must be many gardeners, so there 
must be many books. There must be books for 
different persons and different ideals. The gar- 
den made by one's own hands is always the best 
garden, because it is a part of oneself. A gar- 
den made by another may interest, but it is an- 
other person's individuality. A poor garden of 
one's own is better than a good garden in which 
one may not dig. Many a poor soul has more 
help in a plant in the window than another has 
in a plantation made by a gardener. 

I would emphasize the home garden, made by 
the members of the family. I would preach the 
beauty of the common plants and the familiar 



Vi AMATEUR S PRACTICAL "ARDEN-BOOK 

places. These things are never old. Many 
times I have noted how intently an audience of 
plant -lovers will listen to the : ost commonplace 
details respecting the cultivation of plants with 
which they have been always familiar. There 
was nothing new in what they heard ; but they 
liked to have the old story told over again, and 
every detail called up a memory. 

The same questions are asked every year, and 
they always will be asked, — the questions about 
the simplest garden operations. Upon this de- 
sire for commonplace advice the horticultural 
journals live. A journal which publishes only 
things which are new would find little support. 
Some of these common questions I have tried to 
answer in this little book. I wish them answered 
in the simple and direct phrase of the gardener. 
Therefore I asked my friend C. E. Hunn, gar- 
dener to the Horticultural Department of Cornell 
University, who lives with plants, to write ad- 
vice for one who would make a garden ; and 
this he did in a summer vacation. These notes, 
edited and amplified, now make this book. 

L. H. BAILEY. 

Horticultural Department, 

Cornell University. 

Ithaca, N. Y., February 22. 1900. 



AMATEUR'S 
PRACTICAL GARDEN-BOOK 



Abobra viridiflora. A handsome tender climber 
with tuberous roots, that may be taken up in the fall and 
stored in a cellar. The foliage is dark and glossy, the flow- 
ers small and inconspicuous ; but the small scarlet fruits are 
very effective in contrast to the leaves, making it a desirable 
screen plant. It is sold by seedsmen. Seeds sown as soon 
as warm weather comes will give plants which bloom in the 
open (in a warm soil and exposure), and which reach a 
height of 5 8 ft. It is sometimes grown as a glasshouse 
plant. It is cucurbitaceous (allied to melons and gourds). 

Abronia. Calif ornian trailing perennials, bnt 
treated as hardy annuals. They thrive in any warm, open gar- 
den soil, and are very satisfactory for the margins of beds or 
borders. The little flowers are borne in clusters. A. lati- 
folia or arenaria (yellow) and A. umbellata or grandiflora 
(pink) are the leading kinds. Usually sown where they 
are to bloom. Peel the husk off the seed oefore sowing. 

Abutilons, or Flowering Maplks as they are 

called by many, make flne house or beddmg plants. Com- 
mon kinds may be grown from seed or from cuttings of 
young wood. If the former, the seed should be sown in 
February or March in a temperature of not less than 60°. 
The seedlings should be potted when from four to six leaves 
have grown, in a rich, sandy soil. Frequent pottings should 

A U) 




2 AMATEUR'S PRACTICAL GARDEN -BOOK 

be made to insure a rapid growth, making plants large 
enough to flower by fall. Or, the seedlings may be planted 
out in the border when danger of frost is over, and taken up 
in the fall before frost : these plants will bloom all winter. 
About one-half of the newer growth should be cut off when 
they are taken up, as they are very apt to spindle up when 
grown in the house. When grown from cuttings, young 
wood should be used, which, after being well rooted, may 
be treated in the same manner as the seedlings. 
The varieties with variegated leaves have been 
improved until the foliage effects are equal to 
the flowers of some varieties; and, these are a 
great addition to the conservatory or window 
garden. The staple spotted- leaved type is A. 
ThompsonL A compact form, now much used 
for bedding and other outdoor work, is Savitzii, 
Abutiion striatum whicli is a horticultural variety, not a distinct 
species. The old-fashioned green-leaved A. striatum, from 
which A. Thonpsoni has probably sprung, is one of the 
best. A. megapotamicum or vcxillarium is a trailing or 
drooping red-and-yellow-flowered species, which is excel- 
lent for baskets. It propagates readily from seed. Abu- 
tilons B,re most satisfactory for house plants when they are 
not much more than a year old. They need no special 
treatment. 

Aconitum. Monk's Hood. Wolf's Bane. 

Hardy herbaceous perennials allied to larkspurs. They are 
showy border plants, usually flowering the first year from 
seed, if the seed is started early, and bearing panicles of 
quaint hood-shaped, rich flowers. The colors have a wide 
range, but are usually deep blue. The improved varieties 
are much superior in size and markings. Aconitums are 
most effective when planted in a mixed border : the flower 
stalks being held well up, show the blossoms to good ad- 
vantage. Seed may be sown every two years, as the plants 
in their year -old and 2 -year-old stage have the largest 



ACONITUM— AGAPANTHUS 



Adlumia cirrhosa 



blossoms. Sow in gentle heat in March, transplanting to 
border when the weather is settled. Roots may be divided 
if desired, but best results are to be expected from seed- 
lings. A. Napellus is the commonest one. The plants are 
very poisonous if eaten. Bloom in early summer. 2-3 ft. 

Acrolinium. A low -growing everlasting an- 
nual flower, white, violet, or rose in color. Seeds should 
preferably be started in a hotbed or window, and planted 
out when danger of frost is past ; the flowers should be 
gathered when half expanded and hung 
in the shade to dry. Half - hardy. 
Plant 1 foot apart. Grow 10-15 in. 
high. See Everlastings. 

Adlumia. Mountain Fringe. 

Allegheny Vine. One of the daintest 
of climbers, making a very rapid growth, 
and when once established seeding itself 
and thriving for years, growing 10 or 
15 feet in a season. Give rich, rather 
moist soil. It is biennial, blooming the 
second year. Flowers like those of the 
bleeding heart and other dicentras. It is native. 

Adonis. A low- growing hard}^ annnal or per- 
ennial of the easiest culture. It makes a fine mass effect, 
as the flowers are a striking dark scarlet or crimson color, 
and the plants are very free and continuous bloomers. 
Sow early in the spring where wanted. The perennial 
yellow-flowered sorts sometimes bloom the first year from 
seed. Adonises are very neat in habit, and the foliage is 
fine and interesting. 10-15 in. 

Agapanthus. African Lily. A tuberous - 

rooted, well known conservatory or window plant. It lends 
itself to many conditions and proves satisfactory a large part 
of the year, the leaves forming a green arch over the pot, 
covering it entirely in a well grown specimen. The flowers 




4 amateur's practical garden -book 

are borne in a large cluster on stems growing from 2 to 3 
ft. high, as many as two or three hundred bright blue flowers 
often forming on a single plant. A large, well grown 
plant throws up a number of flower- stalks through the 
early season. The one essential to free growth is an abun- 
dance of water and an occasional application of manure 
water. Propagation is effected by division of the offsets, 
which may be broken from the main plant in early spring. 
After flowering, gradually lessen the quantity of water until 
they are placed in winter quarters, which should be a posi- 
tion free from frost and moderately dry. The Agapanthus, 
being a heavy feeder, should be grown in strong loam to 
which is added well rotted manure and a little sand. 

Ageratum. A half-hardy annual, used as a 
border plant, for ribbon bedding for mass effect, or in 
mixed beds of geranium, coleuses and other plants. The 
seeds germinate readily, but as the plant is only 
half-hardy and is usually wanted in flower when 
planted out, it is usual to sow the seed in boxes 
placed in hotbeds or windows in March, trans- 
planting the seedlings to small boxes or pots and 
growing the young plants on until the 1st of May, 
when they may be planted out. Pieces of young 
wood root very easily, and the gardener usually 
increases his stock by cuttings. The dwarf varie- 

Ageratum '' ° 

ties are the most desirable, and the two colors, 
blue and white, may be planted together. 2-3 ft. Plants 
may be taken up in the fall and set in the house ; cut them 
back severely. 

Allegheny Vine. See Adlumia. 

Almond is about as hardy as the peach, but it 
blooms so early in the spring that it is little grown east of 
the Pacific slope. It is an interesting ornamental tree, and 
its early bloom is a merit when the fruit is not desired. 
The Almonds commonly sold by nurserymen in the east are 




ALMOND — ALSTROMERIA 5 

hard-shell varieties, aud the nuts are not good enough for 
commerce. The Almond fruit is a drupe, like the peach, 
but the flesh is thin and hard and the pit is the "Almond" 
of commerce. Culture the same as for peach. 

Flowering Almond is a very early -flowering bush, ex- 
cellent for shrub -borders. It is usually grafted on plum 
stock, and one must take care to keep down the plum sprouts 
which sometimes spring from the root. 

Aloe. Succulent tropical plants, sometimes seen 
in window gardens. Of easy culture. See that the pots 
have perfect drainage. Make a soil of sandy loam, with 
one-third or one-fourth part of broken brick. Pot firmly. 
Water whenever needed, but the soil and drainage should 
be such that the earth does not remain soggy or become 
sour. Aloes thrive year after year without repotting. 
Usually propagated by cuttings. A. variegafa is the com- 
monest species. 

Alonsoa. Tender annual. Not verj- well known, 

but a bright plant for second-row border or a low bedding 
plant. Planted against shrubbery or other protection after 
danger of frost is over, it lightens up a dark corner. 2-3 ft. 
Plant 10-15 in. apart, in a warm place protected from wind. 

Alstromeria. The Alstromerias belong to the 

amaryllis familj^ being tuberous-rooted plants, having leafy 
stems and terminating in a cluster of from 10 to 50 small 
lily -shaped flowers of rich colors. Most of the kinds should 
be given pot culture, as they are easily grown and are not 
hardy in the open in the north. The culture is nearly that of 
the amaryllis, — a good, fibrous loam with a little sand, pot- 
ting the tubers in early spring or late fall. Start the plants 
slowly, giving only water enough to cause root growth ; but 
after growth has become established, a quantity of water may 
be given. After flowering they may be treated as are ama- 
ryllis or agapanthus. The plants grow 1-2X ft. high. The 
flowers often have odd colors. 



amateur's practical garden -book 




Sweet Alyssum 



Althaea. See Hollyhock. 

Alyssum, Sweet. A low- growing, hardy, white- 
flowered, very fragrant annual which is much used for edg- 
ings, window boxes, and the like. It is of the easiest culture 
in any soil, but thrives best in a garden loam of moderate 
fertility. Seeds may be sown as early as the 
ground can be well prepared in spring. The plant 
will begin to bloom when 2 or 3 inches high, and 
continue to bloom, as it grows, until after the 
first hard frosts. It makes a mat 1 to 2 ft. 
across. If immediate effects are not desired, 
the plants should be thinned out or transplanted 
to stand half a foot apart. It rarely stands more 
than a foot high. In the fall, plants may be cut 
back and put into pots or boxes, and they will 
bloom in the window. Better results in winter 
blooming are secured by starting seeds in boxes in August, 
September or October. There are certain hardy perennial 
yellow -flowered Alyssums which are useful for prominent 
edgings and for rockwork. 

Amarantus. Decorative ainiuals. One species 
(with erect spikes) is known as Prince's Feather, another 
(with variegated foliage) as Joseph's Coat, and still another 
(with drooping spikes) as Love-lies-bleeding. 
Probably the finest of the list is A. salicifoUus, 
often called Fountain Plant. This has graceful 
willow- shaped leaves, banded and tipped with 
carmine, bronze and orange. The tall kinds 
make fine screens for unsightly objects. They 
may also be used against masses of green to add 
color. The Amaranths are half-hardy or tender . „ ^ 

Prince's Feather 

plants, and should be sown in boxes in March or 
April, to be planted out after all danger of frost is past. 
Seeds may also be sown where the plants are to stand. 
They were once among the most popular of garden plants, 




AMARANTUS— AMMOBIUM 7 

but for a few years have been neglected. Fine colors have 
recently been developed, and they are again becoming favor- 
ites. As they are rather coarse and weedy plants, do not 
use them with dainty flowers. Most kinds grow 2-3 ft. high 
and spread 2-3 ft. 

Amaryllis. Popular name of a variety of house 
or conservatory tender bulbs, but properly applied only to 
the Belladonna Lily. Most of them are hippeastrums, but 
the culture of all is similar. They are satisfactory house 
plants. The one objection to their culture is the habit of 
the flower- stalk starting into growth before the leaves start. 
This is caused in most cases by stimulating root growth be- 
fore the bulb has had sufficient rest. The bulbs should be 
dormant for four or five months in a dry place with a temper- 
ature of about 50°. When wanted to be brought into flower, 
the bulbs, if to be repotted, should have all the dirt shaken 
off and potted in soil composed of fibrous loam and leaf- 
mold, to which should be added a little sand. If the loam 
is a heavy one, place the pot in a warm situation ; a spent 
hotbed is a good place. Water as needed, and as the flowers 
develop liquid manure may be given. If large clumps are 
well established in 8- or 10 -inch pots, they may be top-dressed 
with new soil containing rotted manure, and as growth in- 
creases liquid manure may be given twice a week until the 
flowers open . After flowering, gradually withhold water until 
the leaves die. The most popular species for window gardens 
is A. JoJmsoni (properly a hippeastrum), with red flowers. 

Amethyst. See Browallia. 

Ammobium. A half-hardy perennial everlast- 
ing with white flowers. Thrives best in sandy soil. Sow 
seeds where plants are to stand. Although perennial, it 
blooms the first year from seed, and is usually treated as an 
annual. 2-3 ft. high. Plant 12-18 in. apart. 

Ammoniacal Carbonate of Copper. See under 
Bordeaux Mixture. 



8 amateur's practical -garden -book 

Anchusa. Hardy annuals and perennials, fit 
for heavy borders. The plants grow to the height of 2 to 3 
feet and bear purple or blue flowers, which are showy either 
on the pjant or in bouquets. Propagated from seed sown in 
early spring, either where the plants are to stand or in boxes 
or hotbeds. The common kind is annual. Blooms in 
summer. 

Anemone. Wind Flower. A group of hardy 

perennials. The best known of this genus is A. Japonica 
a?6«, or Honorine Jobert. This species blooms from 
August to November, and is at that season the fin- 
est of border plants. The pure white flowers, with 
lemon-colored stamens, are held well up on stalks 
2-3 ft. high. The flower stems are long and ex- 
cellent for cutting. This species may be propa- 
gated by division of the plants or by seed. The 
former method should be put into practice in the 
spring; the latter as soon as the seeds are ripe in 
the fall. Sow the seed in boxes in a warm, shel- 
tered situation in the border or under glass. The seed 
should be covered lightly with soil containing a quantity 
of sand and not allowed to become dry. A well enriched, 
sheltered position in a border should be given. There are 
red -flowered varieties. 

The varieties of A. coronaria are tuberous-rooted plants. 
The tubers of these should be planted in the fall, late in 
September or early in October, in a well enriched, sheltered 
border, setting the tubers 3 in. deep and from 4-6 in apart. 
The surface of the border should be mulched with leaves or 
strawy manure through the severe winter weather, uncover- 
ing the soil in March. The flowers will appear in April or 
May, and in June or July the tubers should be taken up and 
placed in a dry place in sand until the following fall. This 
section is not as well known as it should be. The range 
of color is very wide. The flowers are often 2 in. across, 
and are lasting. These tubers may be planted in pots in 




ANEMONE— ANNUALS 



9 



the same manuei- as in the border, bringing them into the 
conservatory or house at intervals through the winter, 
where they make an excellent showing when in bloom. 

The little wild Wind Flowers are easily colonized in a 
hardy border. 

Annuals. The annual flowers of the seedsmen 
are those which give their best bloom in the very year 
in which the seeds are sown. True annuals are those 
plants which complete their entire life-cycle in one season. 
Some of the so -called annual flowers will continue to bloom 
the second and third years, but the bloom is so poor and 
sparse after the first season that it does not pay to keep 
them. 

Most annuals will bloom in central New York if the seeds 
are sown in the open ground when the weather becomes 
thoroughly settled. But there are some kinds, as Cosmos 
and Moonflowers, for which our season is commonly too 
short to give good bloom. These kinds may be started early 
in the house or in hotbeds ; and similar treatment may be 
given any plants of which it is desired 
to secure blooms before the normal time. 

Prepare the ground thoroughly and 
deep. Annuals must make a quick 
gro;wth. See that the soil contains 
enough humus or vegetable mold to 
make it rich and to enable it to 
hold moisture. If the ground is 
not naturally rich, spade in well- 
rotted manure or mold from the 
woods. A little commercial ferti- 
lizer may help in starting off the 
plants quickly. Prepare the land 
as early in spring as it is in fit condition, and prevent 
evaporation by keeping the surface loose by means of 
raking. 

If the flowers are to be grown about the edges of the 




A box g-arden 




10 amateur's practical garden -book 

lawn, make sure that the grass roots do not run underneath 
them and rob them of food and moisture. It is well to run 
a sharp spade deep into the ground about the edges of the 
bed every two or three weeks for the purpose of cut- 
ting off any grass roots which may have run into the 
bed. If beds are made in the turf, see that they are 
3 ft. or more wide, so that the grass roots will not 
undermine them. Against the shrub borders, 
this precaution may not be necessary. In fact, 
it is desirable that the flowers fill all the 
space between the overhanging branches and 
the sod. 

Flowers against a g^^ ^j^g seeds freely. Many will not germi- 

nate. Even if they do all germinate, the com- 
bined strength of the rising plantlets will break the crust on 
the hard soils ; and in the thinning which follows, only strong 
and promising plants are allowed to remain. Better effects 
are also often secured when the colors are in masses, espe- 
cially if the flowers are thrown into the bays of heavy shrub 
borders. 

Plants continue to bloom for a longer period if they are 
not allowed to produce seeds. The flowers should be picked, 
if possible, as soon as they begin to fade. 

In the selection of the kinds of annuals, one's personal 
preference must be the guide. Yet there are some groups 
which maybe considered to be standard or general -purpose 
plants. They are easily grown almost anywhere, and are 
sure to give satisfaction. The remaining plants are mostly 
such as have secondary value, or are adapted to x)articular 
purposes or uses. 

The groups which most strongly appeal to the writer as 
staple or general-purpose types are the following: Petunias, 
phloxes, pinks or dianthuses, larkspurs or delphiniums, 
calliopsis or coreopsis, pot marigold or calendula, bachelor's 
button or Centanrea Cyanus, clarkias, zinnias, marigolds or 
tagetes, collinsias, gilias, California poppies or eschscholtzias, 



ANNUALS 11 

verbenas, poppies, China asters, sweet peas, nemophilas, 
portulaeas, silenes, candytufts or iberis, alyssum, stocks or 
matthiolas, morning-glories, nasturtiums or tropaeolums. 

Annual flowers possess a great advantage over perennials 
in the fact that they appeal strongly to the desire for ex- 
periment. The seeds are sown every year, and there is suffi- 
cient element of uncertainty in the results to make the effort 
interesting; and new combinations can be tried each year. 

Do not cut the old stalks down in the fall. They will 
stand in the snow all through the winter, and remind you of 
the bursting summer time and the long -ripening fall; and 
the snow-birds will find them in the short days of winter. 

Some of the most reliable and easily grown annuals for 
the north are given in the following lists (under the com- 
mon trade names) : 

WHITE FLOWERS 

AgeratumMexicanum album. Matthiola (Stocks), Cut and 
Alyssum, Common Sweet. Come Again. j-^a]^ 

Alyssum, Sweet, compacta. Matthiola, Dresden Perpet- 

Centranthus macrosiphon Matthiola, Giant Perfection, 

albus. Matthiola, White Pearl. 

Convolvulus major. Mirabilis longiflora alba. 

Dianthus, Double White Mar- Nigella. 

garet. Papaver (Poppy), Flag of 
Iberis amara. Truce. 

Iberis coronaria. White Papaver, Shirley. 

Rocket. Papaver, The Mikado. 

Ipomoea hederacea. Phlox, Dwarf Snowball. 

Lavatera alba. Phlox, Leopoldii. 

Malope grandiflora alba. Zinnia. 

YELLOW FLOWERS 

Cacalia lutea. [mon. Calendula sulphurea. 

Calendula officinalis. Com- Calendula suffruticosa. 
Calendula officinalis. Meteor. Calliopsis bieolor marmorata. 



12 



AMATEUR'S PRACTICAL (JARDP:N -BOOK 



Telloio Flovjer 
Calliopsis cardaminsefolia. 
Calliopsis elegans picta. 
Cosmidium Burridgianum. 
Erysimum Peroffskianum. 
Eschscholtzia Calif orniea. 
Hibiscus Africanus. 
Hibiscus, Golden Bowl. 
Ipomoea coccinea lutea. 



s— Continued 
Loasa tricolor, 
Tagetes, various kinds. 
Tlmnbergia alata Fryeri. 
Thunbergia alata aurantiaca. 
Tropseolum, Dwarf, Lady 

Bird. 
Tropa3olum, Tall, Schulzi. 
Zinnia. 



BLVE FLOWERS 



Ageratum Mexieauum. 

Ageratum Mexieauum, Dwarf . 

Browallia Czerniakowski. 

Browallia elata. 

Centaurea Cyanus, Victoria 
Dwarf Compact. 

Centaurea Cyanus minor. 

China Asters of several va- 
rieties. 

Convolvulus minor. 

Convolvulus minor unieaulis. 

Gilia achilleaefolia. 

Gilia capitata. 

Iberis umbellata. 



Iberis umbellata lilacina. 

Kaulfussia amelloides. 

Kaulfussia atroviolacea. 

Lobelia Erinus. 

Lobelia Erinus, Elegant. 

Nigella. 

Phlox variabilis atropur- 

purea. 
Salvia farinacea. 
Specularia. 
Verbena, Black-blue. 
Verbena ccBrulea. 
Verbena, Golden -leaved. 
Whitlavia gloxinoides. 



RED FLOWERS 



Cacalia, Scarlet. 
Clarkia elegans rosea. 
Convolvulus tricolor roseus. 
Dianthus, Half Dwarf Early 

Margaret. 
Dianthus, Dwarf Perpetual. 
Dianthus Chinensis, Double. 
Gaillardia picta. 
Ipomoea coccinea. 



Ipomoea volubilis. 
Matthiola annuus (Stocks). 
Matthiola, Blood -red Ten 

Weeks. 
Matthiola grandiflora. Dwarf. 
Papaver (Poppy) cardinale. 
Papaver, Double. 
Papaver, Mephisto. 
Phaseolus multifiorus. 



ANNUALS 



13 



Red Flowers— Continued 
Phlox, Large-flowering Tropaeolum, 

Dwarf. 
Phlox, Dwarf Fireball. 
Phlox, Black Warrior. 
Salvia eoccinea. 
Saponaria. 



Dwarf, Tom 
Thumb. 
Tropgeolum, Dwarf. 
Verbena hybricla. [fiance. 
Verbena hybrida, Scarlet De- 
Zinnia. 



GOOD FOR EDGINGS OF BEDS AND WALKS 

Lobelia Erinus. 



Alyssum, Sweet. 
Brachycome. 
Colliusias. 

Dianthuses or Pinks. 
Gypsophila muralis. 
Iberis or Candytufts. 
Leptosiphons. 



Nigellas. 

Nemophilas. 

Portulacas or Rose Moss. 

Saponaria Calabrica. 

Specularia. 



KINDS WHICH CONTINUE TO BLOOM AFTER FROST 



Abronia umbel lata. 
Adonis sestivalis. 
Adonis autumnale. 
Argemone grandiflora. 
Calendulas. 
Callirrhoe. 
Carduus Benedictus. 
Centaurea Cyanus. 
Centauridium. 
Centranthus macrosiphon. 
Cerinthe retorta. 
Cheiranthus Cheiri. 
Chrysanthemums . 
Convolvulus minor. 
Convolvulus tricolor. 
Dianthus of various kinds. 
Elscholtzia cristata. 
Erysimum Peroffskianum. 



Erysimum Arkansanum. 
Eschscholtzias, in several 

varieties. 
Gaillardia picta. 
Gilia Achilleaefolia. 
Gilia capitata. 
Gilia laciniata. 
Gilia tricolor. 
Iberis affinis. 
Lavatera alba. 
Matthiolas or Stocks. 
CEnothera rosea. 
CEnothera Lamarckiana. 
(Euothera Drummondii. 
Phlox Drummondii. 
Podolepis affinis. 
Podolepis chrysantha. 
Salvia eoccinea. 



14 amateur's practical garden -book 

Kinds which Bloom after Frost— Continued 
Salvia farinacea. Virginian Stocks. 

Salvia Horminum. Viscaria elegans. 

Verbenas. Viscaria oculata. 

Vicia Gerardii. Viscaria coeli-rosa. 

Antirrhinum. See Snapdragon. 

Apple, the "King of Fruits," thrives over a 
wider range of territory and under more varied conditions 
than any other tree fruit. This means that it is easy to 
grow. In fact, it is so easy to grow that it usually is 
neglected ; and people wonder why the trees do not bear. 

The selection of varieties of Apples for home use is, to a 
large extent, a personal matter; and no one may say what 
to plant. A variety that is successfully grown in one sec- 
tion may prove disappointing in another. One should study 
the locality in which he wishes to plant and choose those 
varieties which are the most successfully grown there, — 
choosing from amongst the successful kinds those which he 
likes best and which seem best to meet the purposes for 
which he is to grow them. When the selection is made, the 
trees should be procured from a near-by nurseryman, if 
possible, as one is then able to select his own trees, receive 
them in the shortest time, and plant them before they have 
become dry. 

The land on which an orchard is to be planted should 
have been in cultivation at least two years previous to set- 
ting the trees and be in a fine physical condition. Dig 
the hole broad and deep enough to take in all the roots left 
after pruning off the bruised ends caused by digging up the 
tree, and trim back the branches at least two-thirds, making a 
smooth cut. Set the trunk in the center of the hole, and 
sift the fine dirt down through the roots, slightly lifting the 
tree once or twice in order that the fine soil may settle under 
the roots, making 'congenial soil for the new roots to run 
through. Fill in over the roots, gradually firming the soil 



APPLES 



15 




attove with the feet. When the hole is full, firm the 
soil around the trunk to prevent whipping by the 
wind, leaving the surface level. If the trees are set in the 
fall a slight earthing up to the trunk may be beneficial 
in certain soils, and if set in a dry 
spring a mulch of straw or grass 
will benefit them. Two- or 3-year- 
old trees (usually the latter) are 
the most desirable for planting 
in home grounds. Commercial 
orchards are often planted exclu- 
sively with 2 -year -olds. 

In orchard cultivation, Apple trees are usually planted 
35 to 40 ft. apart each way. In home grounds they may be 
placed somewhat closer than this, especially if they are 
planted upon the boundaries, so that the limbs may project 
freely in one direction. 

It is ordinarily advisable, especially in the humid climates 
east of the Great Lakes, to havS the body of the tree 3X to 
4X ft. long. The limbs should be trimmed up to this point 
when the tree is set. From three to five main branches 
maybe left to form the framework of the top. These should 
be shortened back one-fourth or one-half when the tree is set. 
Subsequent pruning should keep the top of the tree open 
and maintain it in more or less symmetrical form. See 
Pruning. 

In orchard conditions, the trees should be kept in clean 
culture, especially for the first few years ; but this is not 
always possible in home yards. In lieu of tillage, the sward 
may be mulched each fall with stable manure, and commer- 
cial fertilizer may be applied each fall or spring. If fruit is 
wanted rather than foliage and shade, care should be taken 
not to make ground too rich but to keep it in such condition that 
the tree is making a fairly vigorous growth, with good strong 
foliage, but is not overgrowing. An Apple tree in full bear- 
ing is usually in good condition if the twigs grow from 10 to 



16 amateur's practical garden -book 

18 in. each season. All leaf -eating insects may be kept ofE 
by spraying with Paris green. The Appleworm or eodlin- 
moth may be kept in check by spraying with Paris green as 
soon as the blossoms fall, and again a week or ten days 
later. The leaf blight or apple-scab fungus may be kept in 
check by spraying with Bordeaux mixture just before the 
flowers open, and again after they fall (see Spraying). A 
close watch should be kept for borers. Whenever the bark 
appears to be dead or sunken in patches, remove it and 
search for the cause. A borer will usually be found under- 
neath the bark. About the base of the tree the most serious 
injury occurs from borers, since the insect which enters 
there bores into the hard wood. His presence can be de- 
termined by the chips which are cast from his burrows. The 
only remedy is to dig out the larvae. If they have got far 
into the wood, they can be killed by running a flexible wire 
into the burrows. 

Apple trees should begin to bear when three to five years 
planted, and at ten years should be bearing good crops. 
With good treatment, they should continue to bear for thirty 
or more years. It is cheaper to buy trees from the nursery 
than to attempt to raise them for oneself. 

The dwarf Apples are secured by grafting any variety 
on the Paradise or Douein stocks, which are simply small- 
growing varieties of Apples . Dwarfs are much used in the Old 
World. There is no reason why they should not be used for 
home gardens in this country. They may be planted 8 to 
10 ft. apart, and trained in various ways. The body or 
trunk should not be more than 1 or 2 ft. long. The top 
should be headed-in each year a third or a half of the annual 
growth. Dwarfs bear sooner than standards. A dwarf in 
full bearing should produce from a peck to a bushel of 
apples. Usually only tlie finer or dessert variety of Apples 
should be grown on dwarf trees. 

Many of the local varieties of Apples are excellent 
for home use. Prom the following list of dessert va- 



APPLE — APRICOT 17 

rieties, one can select a good assortment for the home 
garden : 

Summer.—Early Joe, Primate, Garden Eoyal, Summer 
Pearmain, Early Harvest, Summer Rose, Sweet Bough, Sum- 
mer Queen, Early Strawberry, Williams Favorite. 

Fall.— Chenango, Dyer, Jefferis, Jersey Sweet, Maiden 
Blush, Gravenstein, Fall Pippin, Mother (late fall to winter). 
Twenty Ounce. 

Winter.— 'Newtown Pippin, Golden Russet, Bellflower, 
Belmont, King (late fall S. of N. Y.), Grimes Golden, Melon, 
Hubbardston (Nonesuch), Northern Spy, Jonathan, Fameuse 
or Snow, Lady, Rambo, Canada Red, York Imperial, Pomme 
Gris, Esopus Spitzenburg, Swaar, Peck Pleasant, Rhode 
Island Greening, Tallman Sweet, Sutton Beauty, Wagener, 
Seek-no-further. 

Apricot. This fruit, usually thought to be too 
tender for the winters in the latitude of New York, has 
proved as hardy as the peach. Given the right conditions 
as to soil and exposure, it will yield abundant crops, ripen- 
ing its fruits about three weeks in advance of early peaches. 
It would seem that more attention should be given to its 
cultivation. In western New York commercial orchards are 
now producing crops of as fine fruit as that brought from 
California. The introduction of the Russian varieties, a few 
years ago, added to the list several desirable kinds that have 
proved hardier and a little later in blooming than the old 
kinds. The fruits of the Russian varieties, while not as 
large as the other varieties, fully equal many of them in 
flavor, and they are very productive. The soil for Apricots 
should be rather dry ; especially should the subsoil be 
such that no water may stand around the roots. The expo- 
sure should be to the north or west to retard the blooming 
period, as the one great drawback to their successful fruiting 
is the early blooming and subsequent freezing of the flowers 
or small fruits. 

The two serious diflSculties in the growing of Apricots 



18 

are the ravages of the curculio (see Plum) and the danger 
to the flowers from the spring frosts. It is usually almost 
impossible to secure fruits from one or two isolated Apricot 
trees, because the curculios will take them all. It is possi- 
ble, also, that some of the varieties need cross-pollination. 
The Apricot usually thrives best on strong soil ; but other- 
wise the treatment which is given the peach suits the Apri- 
cot very well. The Russian varieties bear more profusely 
and with less care than the old-fashioned and larger kinds. 
Amongst the best kinds of Apricots are Montgamet, Jackson, 
Royal, St. Ambroise, Early Golden, Harris, Roman and 
Moorepark. In the east. Apricots are commonly worked on 
plums, but they also thrive on the peach. 

Aquarium. A pleasant adjunct to a living 
room or conservatory is a large glass globe or glass box 
containing water, in which plants and animals are living 
and growing. A solid glass tank or globe is better than 
a box with glass sides, because it does not leak, but the 
box must be used if one wants a large Aquarium. For 
most persons it is better to buy the Aquarium box than to 
attempt to make it. Four things are important in making 
and keeping an Aquarium (according to Miss Rogers, in 
Cornell Nature-Study Leaflet No. 11): 

" (1) The equilibrium between plant and animal life 
must be secured and maintained. Animals do not thrive in 
water where no plants are growing. Nature keeps plants 
and animals in the same pond, and we must follow her lead. 
The plants have three valuable functions in the Aquarium. 
First, they supply food for the herbivorous creatures. 
Second, they give off a quantity of oxygen which is neces- 
sary to the life of the animals. Third, they take up from 
the water the poisonous carbonic acid gas which passes 
from the bodies of the animals. Just how the plants do 
this is another story. (2) The Aquarium must be venti- 
lated. Every little fish, snail and insect wants air. A 
certain quantity of air is mixed with the water, and the 



AQUARIUM 19 

creatures must breathe that or come to the surface for their 
supply. How does Mother Nature manage the ventilation 
of her aquaria, the ponds and streams ? The plants fur- 
nish part of the air, as we have seen. The open pond, 
whose surface is ruffled by every passing breeze, is con- 
stantly being provided with fresh air. A tadpole or a fish 
can no more live in a long-necked bottle than a boy can 
live in a chimney. (3) The temperature should be kept 
between 40° and 50° Fahr. Both nature and experience 
teach us this. A shady corner is a better place for the 
Aquarium than a sunny window on a warm day. (4) It is 
well to choose such animals for the Aquarium as are 
adapted to life in still water. Unless one has an arrange- 
ment of water pipes to supply a constant flow of water 
through the Aquarium, it is best not to try to keep creatures 
that we find in swift streams. Practical experience shows 
that there are certain dangers to guard against. Perhaps 
the most serious results come from overstocking. It is 
better to have too few plants or animals than too many of 
either. A great deal of light, especially bright sunlight, is 
not good for the Aquarium. A pond that is not shaded 
soon becomes green with a thick growth of slime, or algae. 
This does not look well in an Aquarium, and is apt to take 
up so much of the plant -food that the other plants are 
starved out. The plants in the school -room window will 
shade the Aquarium nicely, just as the trees and shrubs on 
its banks shade the pond. If we find this slime forming 
on the light side of our miniature pond we put it in a darker 
place, shade it heavily so that the light comes in from the 
top only, and put in a few more snails. These will make 
quick work of the green slime, for they are fond of it, if we 
are not." 

The aquatic plants of the neighborhood jnay be kept in 
the Aquarium, — such things as myriophyllunis, charas, eel- 
grass, duekmeats or lemnas, cabomba or fish grass, arrow - 
leafs or sagittaria, and the ike; also the parrot's feather, 



20 amateur's practical garden -book 

to be bought of florists (a species of myriophyllum). Of ani- 
mals, there are fishes (particularly minnows), water inscets, 
tadpoles, clams, snails. If the proper balance is main- 
tained between plant and animal life, it will not be neces- 
sary to change the water so frequently. 

Aquatics and Bog Plants. Many water plants 
are easily grown, and make a fine addition to the home 
garden. The sedges and other bog plants, the cyperus or 
umbrella plant, the common wild water lily, and in large 
grounds the nelurabium or Egyptian lotus, all may be grown 
with ease. For restricted grounds any of these, with the 
exception of the nelumbium, may be grown in tubs made by 
sawing an oaken barrel in two, filling each half from one- 
third to one -half with soil composed of good loam, sand 
and leaf-mold, setting the plants well into the soil and fill- 
ing the tubs with water. These tubs should be sunk to the 
rim in the borders or lawn, both for a good appearance and 
to prevent too great evaporation. By a little care in filling 
with water, these plants may be well grown through the 
hottest weather. Most of the foreign water lilies are not 
hardy, but some of them may be grown with ease if the 
pond is covered in winter. 

Native Aquatics may be colonized in streams or ponds. 
If artificial ponds are to be made, do not get them too deep. 
A foot or 15 inches is sufficient depth of water to stand 
above the crowns of the plants ; and the greatest depth of 
water should not be more than 2% ft. for all kinds of 
water lilies. Half this depth is often sufficient. The soil 
should be 1 to 2 ft. deep, and very rich. Cow manure may 
be mixed with rich loam. Eoots of hardy water lilies may 
be planted as soon as the pond is clear of frost, but the 
tender kinds (which are also to be taken up in the fall) 
should not be planted till it is time to plant out geraniums. 
Sink the roots into the mud so that they are just buried, and 
weight them down with a stone or clod. In cold climates, 
protect the pond of hardy Aquatics by throwing boards over 



AQUATICS— ARTICHOKE 21 

the pond and covering with hay, straw or evergreen boughs. 
It is well to supply an additional depth of water as a fur- 
ther protection. 

Aquilegia. Columbine. These hardy peren- 
nials are general favorites for borders and roekwork. 
Blooming early in the season, they may be said to head the 
procession of the perennials. The ease with which they 
may be cultivated, their freedom of bloom, their varied 
colors and odd shape entitle them to the front rank among 
hardy plants. They are propagated by division of the 
plants in the spring or from seed sown in the fall. Seed- 
lings maybe expected to bloom well the second year. They 
require a moist, partially sheltered situation, with exposure 
to the sun. The common wild Columbine (often called 
"honeysuckle") is easily grown and is very attractive. 
Clumps of Columbine should stand 12-18 in. apart. 2-3 ft. 
high. 

Araucaria, or Norfolk Island Pine, is now 

sold in pots by florists as a window plant. The common 
species {A. excelsa) is most excellent for this purpose, mak- 
ing a symmetrical evergreen subject. It keeps well in 
a cool window, or on the veranda in the summer. Protect 
it from direct sunlight, and give plenty of room. If the 
plant begins to fail, return it to the florist for recuperation. 

Argemone. See PricMy Poppy. 

Aristolochia, or Dutchman's Pipe. A strong, 

woody twiner with very large, heavy leaves, forming a dense 
screen and having peculiarly shaped flowers. But one 
species is considered hardy north, A. Siplio. This will grow 
without special treatment and prove a satisfactory orna- 
mental screen or porch plant. Reaches a height of 20 or 30 
ft. Young plants need some protection in cold winters. 

Artichoke. A tall, coarse perennial of the thistle 
tribe, producing flower-heads which are edible. When once 
established, it will last in bearing for a number of years. 



22 amateur's practical garden -book 

While this plant is not generally grown in this country, 
its merit as a supplementary vegetable for salads or cooking 
is great. It is usually grown from suckers from the root, 
but a start can be made by sowing the seed. Sow in a 
border or seed box and transplant to the garden in early 
summer; and the following year a crop may be had. The 
parts of the plant used are the flower-heads and the young 
suckers, the former boiled or eaten raw as a salad. The young 
shoots may be tied together and blanched, using them like 
asparagus or Swiss chard. The fleshy scales of the head 
and the soft ''bottom" of the head are the parts used. But 
few of these plants would be needed for a family, as they 
produce a number of flower-heads to a plant and a quantity 
of suckers. The plants should be set from 2 to 3 ft. apart 
in the row, the rows being 3 ft. apart. This vegetable is 
not quite hardy in the north, but a covering of leaves or 
barnyard litter to the depth of a foot will protect them well. 
The plant, being a perennial, will continue to yield for a 
number of years under good cultivation. These plants make 
no mean decorative subjects, either massed or in a mixed 
border, and from the rarity of their culture are always ob- 
jects of interest. 

Artichoke, Jerusalem, if^ a wholly different 
plant from the above, although it is commonly known as 
"Artichoke" in this country. It is a species of sunflower 
which produces potato-like tubers. These tubers may be 
used in lieu of potatoes. They are very palatable to hogs; 
and when the plant becomes a weed— as it often does— it 
may be exterminated by turning the hogs into it. Hardy. 

Arundo, or Reed, is one of the best of bold and 

ornamental grasses, excellent for the center of a large formal 
bed, or for emphatic points in a mixed border. It is per- 
ennial and hardy in the northern states, but it is advisable 
to give it a mulch on the approach of winter. Thrives in 
any rich soil, doing best where somewhat moist. 8-12 ft. 
The clumps enlarge year by year. 



ASPARAGUS 23 

Asparagus. A hardy herbacous pereuuial, 
much grown for the soft, edible, early spring shoots. The 
culture of this, the finest of early vegetables, has been sim- 
plified in the past few years, and at present the knowledge 
required to successfully plant and grow a good supply need 
not be that of a professional. The old method of excavating 
to the depth of 3 ft. or more, throwing in from 4 to 6 in. 
of broken stone or bricks for drainage, then filling to within 
16 to 18 in. of the surface wdth well rotted manure, with 6 
in. of soil upon which to set the roots, has given place to 
the simple practice of plowing or digging a trench from 14 
to 16 in. deep, spreading well rotted manure in the bottom 
to the depth of 3 or 4 in. ; when well trodden down covering 
the manure with 3 or 4 in. of good garden soil, then setting 
the plants, with the roots well spread out, covering carefully 
with soil to the level of the garden, and firming the soil 
with the feet. This will leave the crowns of the plants from 
4 to 5 in. below the surface. In setting, 1 -year-old plants 
will prove more satisfactory than older ones, being less 
liable to suffer from injury to the root system than those 
which have made a larger growth. Two years after setting 
the crop may be cut, but not sooner if a lasting bed is de- 
sired, as the effort to replace the stalks has a tendency to 
weaken the plant unless the roots are well established. The 
yearly treatment of an Asparagus bed consists of cleaning 
off tops and weeds in the fall and adding a dressing of well 
rotted manure to the depth of 3 or 4 in., this manure to be 
lightly forked into the bed the following spring ; or, the 
tops may be allowed to stand for winter protection and the 
mulch left off. A top-dressing of nitrate of soda, at the 
rate of 200 pounds per acre, is often beneficial as a spring 
stimulant, especially in the case of an old bed. Good re- 
sults will also follow an application of bone meal or su- 
perphosphate at the rate of from 300 to 500 pounds per 
acre. The practice of sowing salt on an Asparagus bed is 
almost universal. Still, beds that have never received a 



24 amateur's practical garden- book 

pound of salt are found to be as productive as those having 
received an annual dressing. Nevertheless, a salt dressing 
is recommended. In stubborn, heavy soil the best method 
to pursue in making a permanent bed would be to throw out 
all the dirt from the trench and replace with good, fibrous 
loam. Two rows of Asparagus 25 ft. long and 3 ft. apart would 
supply a large family with an abundance throughout the 
season, and if well taken care of will last a number of years. 
Conover's Colossal is the variety most generally grown, 
and is perhaps the most satisfactory sort. Palmetto, a 
variety originating, at the south, is also very popular. A 
newer variety, called Donald White, originating near Elmira, 
N. Y., is recommended by the trade. 

Asperula. Hardy annuals and perennials. 
The low- growing Asperula, with its blue or white flowers, 
is not as often used as it should be. The profusion of small 
flowers and the long season entitle it to a place in low borders. 
The flowers have a pleasing fragrance. Asperulas may be 
used effectively on rockwork. The common white species, or 
Woodruff, grows less than 1 foot. Grown readily from 
seeds, and blooms the first year. All Asperulas thrive best 
in a rather moist soil. 

Asters, China. Half-hardy annuals, of easy 
culture. The China Aster has been for years a great 
favorite in both old-fashioned and modern gardens. With 
the improvements in shapes and colors, they are now 
the rivals of the chrysanthemum. As early as 1731 single 
white and red Asters were grown and described in Eng- 
land, and by 1845 they are mentioned as being very nu- 
merous in New England. The Germans were, perhaps, the 
first to improve the Asters, and the type most admired and 
sought fifty years ago was the full-quilled varieties. Now, 
however, the informal type replaces the stiff, formal quilled 
flowers of that period. Compare the Comet Aster of to-day 
with the Asters of even twenty years ago, and note the 
looseness of its broad rays, giving an artistic value 




ASTERS 25 

far beyond the tall, stiff, purple -blue or whites of that 
period. 

The early Asters will bloom in August if the seed is 
sown in the open early in the season. They are repre- 
sented by the Queen of the Market and Queen of Spring, 
either of which, if started in a hotbed or window, 
will begin to bloom the last of July. The Queen 
of the Market is probably the freest of growth, 
and with its long stems makes a very desirable 
variety for cut -flowers. In fact, in the rich, mel- 
low soil in which Asters delight, this variety is 
likely to have its large flowers on stems so long ""^ 
and slender that the plants will need stakes, — ' •'-' 

The Victoria Asters hold a well deserved place ^"^'"^ '*■' 
among the leading varieties, and with high culture will 
generally lead in size and profusion of bloom, the colors 
ranging from white to the darkest blue. The plants are 
also well adapted to pot culture. The chrysanthemum - 
flowered Asters, both tall and dwarf, are excellent, as are 
the Truffaut Perfection and Peony- flowered. The Comet 
Asters are amongst the best. The New Branching type is 
now in great favor. 

The culture of China Asters is easy. For early bloom 
the seeds should be sown in March in boxes of light soil and 
covered one -quarter of an inch with soil, the soil pressed 
down or firmed over them and the boxes placed in a hotbed 
or a sunny window and attention given to watering. When 
the seedlings are one inch high they should be trans- 
planted to other boxes, setting the plants 3 inches apart or 
put into 2 -inch pots. These should be again placed in a 
frame and grown along until the ground has become com- 
paratively warm. The soil will need to be well enriched, 
mellow, and if slightly moist under the surface the results 
will be all that could be wished. Asters will grow fairly 
well on rather light soil, even if not very rich, but the best 
results can only be obtained when the highest culture is 



26 



amateur's practical garden -book 




Spray of wild Aster 



given. If the rust attacks the plants, spray with ammo- 
niaeal carbonate of copper. 

Aster, Native. Wild Asters are one of the 

glories of the American autumn. They grow almost every- 
,. where in the north and east, — along road- 

sides, in meadows and swales. Their colors 
range from pure white to pink, and purple, 
and blue. From August until winter closes 
in, they are conspicuous features of the land- 
scape, vying with the goldenrods in form and 
color, but surpassing them in color -range. 
Most of them are greatly improved when 
transferred to the border. They become 
more attractive in general habit, and theflowers are usually 
more profuse and sometimes larger. They are of the easiest 
possible culture. They can be removed to home grounds in 
the fall or spring, and, with little care until they are estab- 
lished, will make most attractive displays of 
autumn color. The species are numerous and 
much confused, and it is not necessary to make 
a list of them here. Because of their free and 
careless habit, they are better adapted to 
planting in borders than in the formal flower 
beds. 

Aubrietia deltoidea. A very hand- 
some little trailing hardy perennial, covered 
with attractive purple flowers in early spring. 
Should be planted in masses for best effect. 
Propagated by cuttings or seeds, usually the latter, 
lent for rockwork and permanent low edgings. 

Auricula. A half-hardy perennial of the 
Primrose tribe {Primula Auricula), very popular in Europe, 
but little grown in this country on account of the hot, dry 
summers. In this country usually propagated by seed, as 
for Cineraria ; but special varieties are perpetuated by off- 




Exeel- 



AURICULA— AZALEA 27 

sets. Seeds sown in February or March should give bloom- 
ing plants for the next February or March. Keep the 
plants cool and moist, and away from the direct sun dur- 
ing the summer. Gardeners usually grow them in frames. 
In the fall, they are potted into 3-inch or 4-ineh pots, and 
made to bloom either in frames as for violets or in a cool 
conservatory or greenhouse. In April, after blooming has 
ceased, repot the plants and treat as the previous year. 
From the best plants, offsets may be taken and treated the 
same as seedlings. As with most annual-blooming peren- 
nials, best results are to be expected with year-old or 2- 
year-old plants. Auriculas grow 6-8 in. high. Colors white 
and many shades of red and blue. 

Azaleas are less grown in this country than 
in Europe, largely because of our hot, dry summers and 
severe winters. There are two common types or classes, — 
the hardy or Ghent Azaleas, and the Indian Azaleas. 

Ghent Azaleas thrive in the open along the seacoast as 
far north as southern New England. They require a sandy, 
peaty soil, and are treated as other shrubs are. The large 
flower-buds are liable to injury from the warm suns of late 
winter and early spring, and to avoid this injury the plants 
are often protected by covers or shades of brush. In the 
interior country, little attempt is made to flower Azaleas 
permanently in the open, although they may be grown if 
carefully tended and well protected. Both Ghent and In- 
dian Azaleas are excellent pot-plants, for bloom in late 
winter and spring. The plants are imported in great num- 
bers from Europe, and it is better to buy these plants than 
to attempt to propagate them. Pot them up in large -sized 
pots, keep them cool and backward for a time until they are 
established, then take them into a conservatory tempera- 
ture, in which carnations and roses thrive. They should be 
potted in a soil made of half peat or well decayed mold and 
half rich loam ; add a little sand. Pot firmly, and be sure 
to provide sufficient drainage. Keep off red spider by 



28 amateur's practical garden -book 

syringing. After blooming, the plants may be thinned by 
pruning out the straggling growths, and repotted. Set them 
in a frame or in a semi -shaded place during summer, and see 
that they make a good growth. The wood should be well 
ripened in the 'fall. After cold weather sets in, keep the 
Indian or evergreen kinds half- dormant by setting them in 
a cool, dull-lighted cellar or pit, bringing them in when 
wanted for bloom. The Ghent or deciduous kinds may be 
touched with frost without injury ; and they may be stored 
in a cellar until wanted. 

^ ^ Bachelor's Button. Gentaurea Cy- 
>^0^^ anus and also Gomphrena. Sometimes applied 
to double-flowered Crowfoots. 

Balloon Vine, or Cardiospermum. An- 
nual tender tendril climber of very rapid growth. 
Seed should not be planted until the soil becomes 
warm. A very pretty effect can be had by allowing 
the vine to run over some coarser vine, or into an 
evergreen tree. The balloon-like capsules show to 
good advantage between the leaves. It is also use- 
ful for covering piles of brush. Grows 8-12 ft. high. 

Balloon Vine /-,, . i 

Give a warm, sunny place. 

Balsams, or Impatiens. Tender annuals, pro- 
ducing both single and double flowers of many colors. 
These well known favorites are usually to be found in old- 
fashioned gardens. They are very likely to seed themselves, 
coming up in unexpected places and flourishing in neglect. 
They do best, however, in rich, sandy soil. If the seed is 
sown in boxes late in April and the plants transplanted sev- 
eral times they will be much dwarfer and the flowers much 
more double. A stately, though very formal and stiff, effect 
may be had by planting a row of Balsams in the rear of a 
low border, pinching off all the side shoots as they start and 
growing the plant to a single stem. This will become cov- 
ered with the large blooms, giving it the appearance of a 




BALSAM — BASKET PLANTS 29 

perfect column of flowers. Balsams are injured by the 
slightest frost. Seeds germinate quickly. Plants should 
stand 12-18 in. apart. They grow 18-30 in. high. 

Bartonia. Hardy annual, with golden yellow, 
brilliant flowers. The tall-growing Bartonia {B. aurea) 
may be used in a mixed border to good advantage. It is a 
bushy plant, reaching 2 3 ft. high. The dwarf kind may 
be used as a border plant or in a rock garden, or as an 
edging. The fragrance of both tall and dwarf is very pro- 
nounced in the evening. The Bartonias are very easy to 
grow in a warm soil and sunny exposure. Their numerous 
thread-like, long stamens are very interesting. 

Basket Plants. In order to have a good hang- 
ing basket, it is necessary that some provision be made 
to prevent too rapid drying out of the earth. It is custom- 
ary, therefore, to line the pot or basket with moss. Open 
wire baskets, like a horse muzzle, are often lined with moss 
and used for the growing of plants. Prepare the earth by 
mixing some well decayed leaf -mold with rich garden loam, 
thereby making an earth which will retain moisture. Hang 
the basket in a light place, but still not in a direct sunlight; 
and, if possible, avoid putting it where it will be exposed to 
drying wind. In order to water the basket, it is often ad- 
visable to sink it into a pail or tub of water. Various 
plants are well adapted to hanging baskets. Among the 
drooping or vine -like kinds are the strawberry geranium, 
Kenilworth ivy, maurandya, German ivy, canary-bird flower. 
Asparagus Sprengeri, ivy geranium, trailing fuchsia, wander- 
ing Jew, and othonna. Among the erect-growing plants 
which produce flowers. Lobelia Erinus, sweet alyssum, 
petunias, oxalis, and various geraniums are to be recom- 
mended. Among foliage plants such things as coleus, dusty 
miller, begonia, and some geraniums are adaptable. 

Baskets. For the picking and handling of 

fruit in the home garden, the common Climax basket, in 




30 amateur's practical garden -book 

various sizes, is the best receptacle. In these baskets the 
products may be sold. When the baskets are sent to 
market or to a friend, they should be neat and new looking; 
therefore keep them in a dry, dark place, as 
in an attic or loft, to prevent them from 
becoming warped and discolored. 

Bean. Under the general name of 
Bean, many kinds of plants are cultivated. 
rr"_- rr'"-* They are all tender, and the seeds, therefore, 
-^ ''^^*=— should not be planted until the weather is 
thoroughly settled ; and the soil should be 
warm and loose. They are all annuals in northern countries, 
or treated as such. 

The Bean plants may be classified in various ways. In 
respect to stature, they may be thrown into three general 
categories; viz., the pole or climbing Beans, the bush 
Beans, and the strict-growing or upright Beans (as the 
Broad or Windsor Bean). In respect to their uses. Beans 
again may be divided into three categories; viz., those 
which are used as string or snap Beans, the entire pod 
being eaten ; those which are used as shell Beans, the 
full-size but immature Beans being shelled from the pod 
and cooked ; dry Beans, or those which are eaten in their 
dry or winter condition. The same variety of Bean may be 
used for all of these three purposes at different stages of its 
development; but as a matter of fact, there are varieties 
which are better for one purpose than the other. Again, 
Beans may be classified in respect to their species. Those 
species which are best known are as follows : (1) Com- 
mon Bean, or Phaseohis vulgaris^ of which there are both 
tall and bush forms. All the common snap and string Beans 
belong here, as also the Speckled Cranberry types of pole 
Beans, and the common field Beans. (2) The Lima Beans, 
or Phaseohis limatus. The larger part of these are pole 
Beans, but lately dwarf or bush varieties have appeared. 
(3) The Scarlet Runner, Phaseolus multiflorus, of which the 



BEANS 31 

Scarlet Runner and White Dutch Runner are familiar ex- 
amples. The Scarlet Runner is usually grown as an orna- 
mental vine, and it is perennial in warm countries, but the 
Beans are edible as shelled Beans. The White Dutch 
Runner is oftener cultivated for food. (4) The Yard -Long, 
or Asparagus Bean, DoUchos sesquipedalis, which produces 
long and weak vines and very long, slender pods. The 
green pods are eaten, and also the shelled Beans. The 
French Yard-Long is the only variety of this type which is 
commonly known in this country. This type of Bean is 
popular in the Orient. (5) The Broad Beans, of which the 
Windsor is the common type. These are much grown in 
the Old World for stock feed, and they are sometimes used 
for human food. They grow to one strict, central, stiff 
stalk, to a height of 2-4 or 5 ft., and they are very unlike 
other kinds of Beans in appearance. In this country, they 
are very little grown on account of our hot and dry sum- 
mers. In Canada they are somewhat grown, and are some- 
times used in the making of ensilage. 

The culture of the Bean, while of the easiest, often 
proves a failure as far as the first crop is concerned, be- 
cause of planting the seed before the ground has become 
warm and dry. No vegetable seed will decay quicker than 
Beans, and the delay caused by waiting for the soil to be- 
come warm and free from excessive moisture will be more 
than made up by the rapidity of growth when finally they 
are planted. Beans will grow in most any soil, but the best 
results may be obtained by having the soil well enriched 
and in good physical condition. Prom the 5th to the 10th 
of May in the latitude of central New York, it will be safe 
to plattt Beans for an early crop. The Beans may be 
dropped 2 inches deep in shallow drills, the seeds to lie 3 
inches apart. Cover to the surface of the soil, and if the 
ground be dry, firm it with the foot or the back of the hoe. 
For the bush varieties, allow 2 ft. between the drill-rows, 
but for the dwarf Limas 2)^ ft- is better. Pole Limas are 



32 amateur's practical garden -book 

usually planted in hills 2-3 ft. apart in the rows. Dwarf 
Limas may be sown thinly in drills. 

A large number of the varieties of both the green -podded 
and the wax -podded Beans are used almost exclusively as 
snap Beans, to be eaten with the pod while tender. The 
various strains of the Black Wax are the most popular 
string Beans. The pole or running Beans are used either 
green or dried, and the Limas, both tall and dwarf, are 
well known for their superior flavor either as shelled or 
dry Beans. The old-fashioned Cranberry or Horticultural 
Lima type (a pole form of Phaseolus vulgaris) is probably 
the best shell Bean, but the trouble of poling makes it 
unpopular. Dwarf Limas are much more desirable for 
small gardens than the pole varieties, as they may be 
planted much closer, the bother of procuring poles and 
twine is avoided, and the garden will have a more sightly 
appearance. Both the dwarf Limas and pole Limas require 
a longer season in which to mature than the bush varieties, 
and only one planting is usually made. But the bush va- 
rieties may be planted at intervals of two weeks from the 
first planting until the 10th of August. Each planting may 
be made on ground previously occupied by some early- 
maturing crop. Thus, the first to third plantings maybe on 
ground from which has been harvested a crop of spinach, 
early radish or lettuce ; after that, on ground where early 
peas have been grown ; and the later sowings where beets 
or early potatoes have grown. String Beans for canning 
are usually taken from the last crop. One quart of seed 
will plant 100 ft. of drill ; or 1 quart of Limas will plant 
100 hills. 

Limas are the richest of Beans, but they often fail to 
mature in the northern states. The land should not be 
very rich in nitrogen (or stable manure), else the plants 
will run too much to vine and be too late. Select a fertile 
sandy or gravelly soil with warm exposure, use some soluble 
commercial fertilizer to start them off, and give them the 



BEAN— BEDDING 33 

best of culture. Aim to have the pods set before the 
droughts of midsummer come. Good trellises for Beans 
are made by wool twine stretched between two horizontal 
wires, one of which is drawn a foot above the ground and 
the other 6 or 7 ft. high. 

Bean plants are not troubled by insects to any extent, 
but they are sometimes attacked by blight. When this oc- 
curs, do not plant the same ground to Beans again for 
a year or two. 

Bedding. This term is used to designate the 
massing of plants in the open ground for the purpose of 
making a bold display of color. This color may be obtained 
with flowers or with strong effects of foliage. Bedding is 
ordinarily a temporary species of planting; that is, the bed 
is filled anew each year. However, the term may be used 
to designate a permanent plantation of plants which are 
heavily massed so as to give one continuous or emphatic 
display of form or color. Some of the best permanent bed- 
ding masses are made of the various hardy ornamental 
grasses, as eulalias, arundo, and the like. 

Some bedding is very temporary in its effect. Especially 
is this true of spring Bedding, in which the plants used are 
tulips, hyacinths, crocuses or other early -flowering bulbous 
plants. In this case, the ground is usually occupied later in 
the season by other plants. These later plants are usually 
annuals, the seeds of which are sown amongst the bulbs as 
soon as the season is far enough advanced ; or the annuals 
may be started in boxes and the plants transplanted amongst 
the bulbs as soon as the weather is fit. Many of the low- 
growing and compact, continuous -flowering annuals are ex- 
cellent for summer Bedding effects. Some of the best plants 
for this purpose are mentioned in the following list : 

Adonis eestivalis. Bartonia aurea. 

Adonis autumnalis. Caealia. 

Ageratum Mexicanum. Calendula officinalis, in sev- 

AgeratumMexicanum, dwarf. eral forms. 



34 



AMATEUR S PRACTICAL GARDEN -BOOK 



Calendula pluvialis. 
Calendula Pongei. 
Calendula sulphurea, fl. pi. 
Calendula suffrutieosa. 
Calliopsis bicolor marmorata. 
Calliopsis cardaminaefolia. 
Calliopsis elegans picta. 
Callirrhoe involuerata. 
Callirrhoe pedata nana. 
Callirrhoe pedata. 
Centaurea Americana. 
Centaurea Cyanus, Victoria 

Dwarf Compact. 
Centaurea Cyanus minor. 
Centaurea suaveolens. 
Chrysanthemum Burridge- 

anum. 
Chrysanthemum carinatum. 
Chrysanthemum coronarium. 
Chrysanthemum tricolor. 
Convolvulus minor. 
Convolvulus tricolor. 
Cosmidium Burridgeanum. 
Delphinium, single, 
Delphinium, double. 
Dianthus, Double White Half 

Dwarf Margaret. 
Dianthus, Dwarf Perpetual. 
Dianthus Caryophyllus sem- 

perflorens. 
Dianthus Chinensis, double. 
Dianthus dentosus hybridus. 
Dianthus Heddewigii. 
Dianthus imperialis. 
Dianthus laciniatus, Salmon 

Queen. 



Dianthus plumarius. [pi. 
Dianthus superbus, dwarf fl. 
Dianthus, Picotee. 
Elscholtzia cristata. 
Eschscholtzia Californica. 
Esehseholtzia erocea. 
Eschscholtzia, Mandarin. 
Eschscholtzia tenuifolia. 
Gaillardia picta. 
Gaillardia picta Lorenziana. 
Gilia achillesefolia. 
Gilia capitata. 
Gilia laciniata. 
Gilia linifolia. 
Gilia nivalis. 
Gilia tricolor. 
Godetia Whitneyi. 
Godetia grandiflora maculata. 
Godetia rubieunda splendens. 
Hibiscus Africanus. 
Hibiscus, Golden Bowl. 
Iberis affinis. 
Iberis amara. 
Iberis coronaria. 
Iberis umbellata. 
Impatiens or Balsam. 
Lavatera alba. 
Lavatera trimestris. 
Linum grandiflorum. 
Madia elegans. 
Malope grandiflora. 
Matricaria eximia plena. 
Matthiola or Stock, in many 

forms. 
Matthiola, Wallflower-leaved. 
Matthiola bicornis. 



BEDDING 



35 



Nigella or Love-in-a-Mist. 
CEnothera Drummondii. 
CEnothera Lamarekiana. 
CEnothera rosea. 
CEnothera tetraptera. 
Papaver or Poppy, of many 

kinds. 
Papaver eardinale. 
Papaver glaucum. 
Papaver umbrosum. 
Petunia, Ring of Emerald. 
Phlox Drummondii, in many 

varieties. 
Portulaca. 
Salvia farinaeea. 
Salvia Horminum. 
Salvia splendens. 
Schizanthus papilionaceus, 
Schizanthus pinnatus. 
Silene Armeria. 



Silene pendula. 

Tagetes or Marigold, in many 

forms. 
Tagetes ereeta. 
Tagetes patula. 
Tagetes signata. 
Tropaeolum, Dwarf. 
Verbena auriculaBflora. 
Verbena Italiea striata. 
Verbena hybrida. 
Verbena eoerulea. 
Verbena, Golden -leaved. 
Viscaria eoeli-rosa. 
Viscaria elegans picta. 
Viscaria oeulata. 
Zinnia, Dwarf. 
Zinnia elegans alba. 
Zinnia, Tom Thumb. 
Zinnia Haageana. 
Zinnia coecinea plena. 



Summer bedding is often made by perennial plants which 
are carried over from the preceding year, or better, which 
are propagated for that particular purpose in February and 
March. Such plants as geranium, eoleus, alyssum, scarlet 
salvia, ageratum and heliotrope maybe used for these beds. 
It is a common practice to use geranium plants which are in 
bloom during the winter for bedding out during the sum- 
mer, but such plants are tall and ungainly in form and have 
expended the greater part of their energies. It is better to 
propagate new plants by taking cuttings or slips late in the 
winter and setting out young, fresh, vigorous subjects. 

Very bold and subtropical effects can be made by plant- 
ing in the open such things as palms, bananas, crotons, 
araucarias, caladiums and cannas. Plants like bananas and 
palms, which are kept normally in pots, would better be left 
in the pots and plunged to the rims rather than turned out 



36 amateur's practical garden -book 

directly into the soil. In order to attain quick and continu- 
ous effects, it is advisable to set the plants rather close. 
As such plants are likely to be injured by strong winds, it 
is well to have subtropical beds in a somewhat protected 
place. 

Another type of bed is that which attempts to make 
patterns or designs, or carpet-bedding. There are com- 
paratively few plants which are adapted to this purpose, 
for the plants must be such as will stand shearing and which 
have very strong and constant colors of foliage. The most 
popular bedding plants are coleus (particularly the yellow 
Golden Bedder) achyranthes, alternanthera, Centaurea 
gymnocarpa, and such succulent plants as the house leeks. 
Some of the annual flowers may also be used for strong 
color effects, as Lobelia Erinus and sweet alyssum. Ordi- 
narily the making of carpet-beds should be left to profes- 
sional gardeners, since it requires much skill and care to 
make and keep the beds in perfect condition ; and a ragged 
or imperfect carpet-bed is worse than no bed at all. Carpet- 
beds are really curiosities, and they have no more legitimate 
place in the general pictorial landscape design area than 
painted stones or sheared evergreens. Therefore, they 
should be placed by themselves at one side, where they do not 
interfere with the general design of the place. In public 
parks they make a very useful attraction when set off by 
themselves, the same as zoological gardens or other attrac- 
tions do. 

Beefsteak Geranium is Begonia. 

Beets. Being one of the hardiest of spring 
vegetables, the seed may be sown as early in the spring as 
the ground can be worked. A light, sandy soil is the best 
on which to grow Beets to perfection, but any well tilled 
garden soil will raise satisfactory crops. On heavy soil the 
turnip Beet gives the best results, as the growth is nearly 
all at or above the surface. The long varieties, having 
tapering roots running deep into the soil, are apt to be mis- 



BEET— BEGONIA 37 

shapen unless the physical condition of the soil is such that 
the roots meet with little obstruction. A succession of sow- 
ings should be made, at intervals of from two to three weeks, 
until late summer, as the Beets are much more desirable 
in their young stage than when they have become old and 
woody. The Mangel-Wurzel and the Sugar Beet are usually 
grown as afield crop, and will not enter into the calculations 
of the home garden. 

In order to hasten the season of the extra-early crop of 
Beets, the seeds may be sown in boxes or in the soil of a 
hotbed in February or March, transplanting the small plants 
to the open ground at the time the first sowing of seed is 
made. As the flat or turnip -rooted varieties grow at the 
surface of the ground, the seed may be sown thickly, and as 
the more advanced roots are large enough to use they may 
be pulled, leaving room for the later ones to develop, thus 
growing a quantity in a small area and having a long season 
of small Beets from one sowing. For winter use 
the late July sown seed will give the best roots, 
growing through the cool month^ of the fall to a 
medium size and remaining firm without being 
tough or stringy. These may be dug up after 
light frosts and before any severe cold weather, 
and stored in barrels or boxes in the cellar, using 
enough dry dirt to fill spaces between the roots 
and cover them to the depth of 6 inches. These 
roots, thus packed in a cool cellar, will be fit to 
use through the entire winter months. When it 
can be had, florists' or sphagnum moss is an ex- ^^^j gj]^^ 
cellent medium in which to pack roots for winter. 

The early round or turnip varieties are best for early and 
summer use. The Long Blood Beets may be used for stor- 
ing, but these require a longer season of growth. 

Begonias. Tender bedding and house plants. 
Next to the geranium, Begonias are probably the most pop- 
ular for house culture of the entire plant list. The ease of 




38 



amateur's practical garden -book 




Fibrous-rooted Begonia 



culture, profusion of bloom or richness of foliage, together 
with their adaptability to shade, make them very desirable. 

Begonias maybe divided into three sections: the fibrous- 
rooted class, which contains the winter-flowering varieties; 
the tuberous -rooted, those which 
bloom through the summer, the 
tuber resting through the winter; 
and the Rex forms, or Beefsteak 
Geraniums, having large ornamental 
leaves. 

The fibrous-rooted kinds may be 
propagated by seed or cuttings, the 
latter being the usual method. Cut- 
tings of half- ripened wood root eas- 
ily, making a rapid growth, the 
plants flowering in a few months. 
The tuberous -rooted varieties are propagated by division 
of the tuber or from seed, the former being rarely done ex- 
cept to increase the stock of some extra fine variety. The 
seeds, like those of all Begonias, are very small, and 
should be sown with great care. Simply sprinkle them on 
the surface of the soil, which should be a mixture of leaf- 
mold and sand, with the addition of a small amount of fibrous 
ioam. Watering should be done by setting the pot or box 
in which the seeds are sown in water, allowing the moisture 
to ascend through the soil. When the soil has become com- 
pletely saturated, set the box in a shady situation, covering 
it with glass or some other object until the tiny seedlings 
appear. Never allow the soil to become dry. The seedlings 
should be transplanted, as soon as they can be handled, into 
boxes or pots containing the same mixture of soil, setting 
each plant down to the seed-leaf. They will need three or 
four transplantings before they reach the blooming stage, 
and at each one after the first, the amount of fibrous loam 
may be increased until the soil is composed of one-third 
each of loam, sand and leaf-mold. The addition of a little 



BEGONIA — BLACKBERRIES 



39 




Rex Begonia 



well rotted manure may be made at the last transplanting. 
These tuberous -rooted Begonias make superior bedding 
plants if given a shady situation and deep soil ; but for the 
amateur they are perhaps better grown as pot-plants, for 
one is able to give them better conditions by that method. 
The flowers are both double and single, 
ranging in color from pure white and yellow 
to pink and red. After flowering the plants 
will die down and the tubers, after drying 
off, may be placed in a dry, warm place 
until spring. 

The Rex type, having no branches, is 
propagated from the leaves. The large ma- 
ture leaves are used. The leaf may be cut 
into sections having at the base a union of 
two ribs. These pieces of leaves may be inserted in the sand 
as any other cutting. Or a whole leaf may be used, cutting 
through the ribs at intervals and laying the leaf flat on the 
propagating bench or other warm, moist place. In a short 
time young plants having roots of their own will form. 
These may be potted when large enough to handle, and will 
soon make good sized plants. Rex Begonias usually grow 
little during winter. Be sure that the pots are well drained, 
so that the soil does not become sour. New plants — those 
a year or so old — are usually most satisfactory. Keep them 
away from direct sunlight. 

An insidious disease of Begonia leaves has recently made 
its appearance. The best treatment yet known is to propa- 
gate fresh plants, throwing away the old stock 
'^^^^Ci^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^'^^'^ ^^ which it is grown. 

/^^^Mll'^^Mb Belli s perennis. See Daisy. 
^/^^'^^^^ Blackberries. The one essential to 
/ ^^wf^^SSk the successful growing of Blackberries is a 
moist soil, — not one in which water will stand, 
but one rich enough in humus to hold sufficient 
Ancient Briton B'ackberry moisture to Carry the crop through the grow- 





40 amateur's practical garden -book 

ing season. It is usually found best to plant in the fall, 
earthing up slightly around the plants. The distance be- 
tween the plants should be regulated by the variety. The 
smaller -growing kinds Cas Early Harvest and Wilson) may 
be planted 4x7 ft., the rank -growing varieties 
(as Snyder) 6x8 ft. Thorough cultivation 
throughout the season will help in a material 
degree to hold the moisture necessary to per- 
fect a good crop. The soil should be culti- 
vated very shallow, however, so as not to dis- 
turb the roots, as the breaking of the roots 
starts a large number of suckers that have to 
Shears for cutting out be cut out and destroyed. 

Blackberries, like dewberries and raspber- 
ries, bear but one crop on the cane. That is, 
canes which spring up this year bear next year. 
From 3 to 6 canes are sufficient to be left in each 
hill. The superfluous ones are thinned out soon 
after they start from the ground. The old canes 
should be cut out soon after fruiting and burned. 
The new shoots should be pinched back at the 
height of 2 or 3 ft. if the plants are to support 
themselves. If to be fastened to wires, they may ^''^^'.^ f'"'' heading- 
be allowed to grow throughout the season and be 

cut back when tied to the wires in winter or early 
spring. Tools for the cutting out of the old canes 
are well represented in the pictures. Shears are used 
for shortening- in the canes. 

Blackberry plants are sometimes laid down in cold 
climates, — the tops being bent over and held to the 
ground by earth or sods thrown on their tips. 

Snyder is the most popular commercial variety; 
but Agawam, Ancient Briton, Taylor, and others are 
better in quality. A new patch should be planted 
every five or six years. 

Blue Bottle. See Centaur ea djanus. 





BORDEAUX MIXTURE 41 

Bordeaux Mixture is a fungicide, used to com- 
bat mildews, leaf -diseases, blights, etc. It is sprayed on 
the plants with a spray pump or syringe, or it may be ap- 
plied with a whisk broom. Apply enough of it so that the 
foliage looks blue. It is made as follows : Copper sulfate, 
6 pounds; quicklime, 4 pounds; water, 40 to 50 gallons. 
Dissolve the copper sulfate by putting it into a bag of coarse 
cloth and hanging this in a vessel holding at least four gal- 
lons, so that it is just covered by the water. Use an 
earthen or wooden vessel. Slake the lime in an equal 
amount of water. Then mix the two and add enough 
water to make 40 gallons. It is then ready for imme- 
diate use, but will keep for some time. If the mixture 
is to be used on peach foliage, it is advisable to add an 
extra pound of lime to the above formula. When ap- 
plied to such plants as carnations or cabbages, it will 
adhere better if a pound of hard soap is dissolved in 
hot water and added to the mixture. For rots, molds, 
mildews, and all fungous diseases. 

Whilst Bordeaux Mixture is the best general fungicide, 
it discolors the plants until it washes off. On ornamental 
plants, therefore, a colorless fungicide may be preferable. 
In such eases, use the ammoniacal carbonate of copper 
solution, as follows : Copper carbonate, 1 ounce; ammonia, 
1 volume 26° Beaume, % volumes water (enough to dissolve 
the copper) ; water, 9 gallons. The copper carbonate is best 
dissolved in large bottles, where it will keep indefinitely, 
and it should be diluted with water as required. For the 
same purposes as Bordeaux Mixture. 

Border. The word border is used to designate 
the heavy or continuous planting about the boundaries of a 
place, or along the walks and drives, or against the build- 
ings, in distinction from planting on the lawn or in the in- 
terior spaces. A border receives different designations, 
depending upon the kinds of plants which are grown 
therein; that is, it may be a shrub border, a flower 



42 amateur's practical garden -book 

border, a hardy border for native and other hardy plants, 
a vine border, and the like. As a rule, the most effective 
planting is that which is thrown into masses, for one plant 
reinforces the other, and the flowers have a good setting 
or background. Very striking displays of foliage and flowers 
and plant forms can be made when massed together. As a 
rule, plants are more easily grown when planted in a border, 
since the whole area can be kept cultivated with ease ; and 
if a plant becomes weak or dies, its place is readily filled 
by the neighboring plants spreading into it. Planting in 
masses is also essential to the best arrangement of the 
yard, since the basis of any landscape is 
a more or less continuous greensward (see 
Lawn). The house occupies the central 
part of the area, and the sides are heavily 
massed or planted so as to make a frame- 
work for the whole place. The border 
may be mixed, — that is, composed of a great 
variety of plants, — or it may be made up of 
one continuous thing. In long and very 
an ing y e e striking bordcrs, it is often best to have the 

background — that is, the back row — of one general type of 
plant in order to give continuity and strength to the whole 
group. In front of this a variety of plants may be set, if 
one desire. 

The land should be rich. The whole ground should be 
plowed or spaded and the plants set irregularly in the 
space ; or the back row may be set in a line. If the border 
is composed of shrubs, and is large, a horse cultivator may 
be run in and out between the plants for the first two or 
three years, since the shrubs will be set from 2 to 4 ft. 
apart. Ordinarily, however, the cultivating is done by hand 
tools. After the plants are once established and the border 
is filled, it is best to dig up as little as possible, for the 
digging disturbs the roots and breaks off the crowns. It is 
usually best to pull out the weeds and give the border a 




BORDER 43 

top-dressing each fall of well rotted manure. If the ground 
is not very rich, a sprinkling of ashes or some commercial 
fertilizer may be given from time to time. The border 
should be planted so thick as to allow the plants to run 
together, thereby giving one continuous effect. Most 
shrubs should be set 3 feet apart. Things as large as 
lilacs may go 4 feet and sometimes even more. Common 
herbaceous perennials, like bleeding heart, delphiniums, 
hollyhocks, and the like, should go from 12 to 18 inches. 
On the front edge of the border is a very excellent 
place for annual and tender flowering plants. Here, 
ior example, one may make a fringe of asters, gera- 
niums, coleus, or anything else which he may choose (see 
Flower Beds). 

The border is an excellent place in which to colonize 
native or other interesting plants. A person comes across 
an attractive plant on his tramp and wishes it were in his 
garden. Whatever the time of year, he may break off the 
top close to the ground, take up the roots and plant them 
in the border. If a little attention is given to the plant for 
the first two or three weeks, as watering or mulching or 
shading, it should become established and give satisfac- 
tory bloom the following year. Two -thirds of the herbs 
which one would take up in this way, even in midsummer, 
should grow. Into the heavy borders about the boundaries 
of the place the autumn leaves will drift and afford an ex- 
cellent mulch. If these borders are planted witli shrubs, 
the leaves may be left there to decay, and not be raked off in 
the spring. The general outline of the border facing the 
lawn should be more or less wavy or irregular, particularly 
if it is on the boundary of the place. Alongside a walk or 
drive, the margins may follow the general directions of the 
walk or drive. 

There are three rules for the choosing of plants for a 
hardy border. Choose (1) those which you like best, (2) 
those which are adapted to the climate and soil, (3) those 



44 



which are in place or in keeping with that part of the 
grounds. See Herbs, Shrubs, Trees, 

Borecole is Kale. 

Borers. There is no sovereign remedj^ for 
borers except to dig them out. Do not rely upon washes or 
other applications. If trees are examined two or three 
times a year, it is not a laborious undertaking to dig them 
out, as they will not be deep in the wood. If they do get 
deep in the wood, thrust a wire into the burrow. By the 
chips cast from the holes, or by the dead bark, the presence 
of borers may be detected. Apple and peach trees are par- 
ticularly liable to attack. The flat-headed apple-tree borer 
works just underneath the bark on any part of the trunk or 
large branches. The round-headed apple-tree borer eats 
into the wood at the crown. 

Boxes of many sizes can be utilized in which 
to grow plants. Excellent effects of bulbs and annuals may 
be had in old soap boxes. The boxes may be placed in 
the best situations for the growth of the plants, and they 
can receive better attention than the large flower bed. 
Vines planted about the edge will hide the sides, — such 
vines as Kenilworth ivy, moneywort, maurandya, trailing 
fuchsia, and the like. 

Brachycome. See Swmi River Daisy. 

Broccoli. This is almost identical with the 
Cauliflower, except that it usually requires a longer season 
and matures in the fall. It is grown more generally in 
Europe than in this country. The special merit of Broc- 
coli is its adaptability for late summer planting and its 
rapid growth in the late fall. It is said that a large 
proportion of Broccoli is used in the manufacture of 
pickles. The culture is the same as for Cauliflower, — deep, 
moist soil well enriched, cool weather, and the destruction 
of the cabbage worm. 



BROCCOLI — BUDDING 45 

The young plants may be grown in a coldframe or in a 
well protected border, sowing the seed about the 15th of 
May, transplanting into rows in July. In sections in which 
early fall frosts are not to be feared, the plants may be set 
two weeks later, say August 1, as all vegetables of the 
cabbage family make the best growth through the cool 
months of September and October. The plants should be 
set 18 in. apart in the rows, the rows being from 2X ft. to 3 
ft. apart. 

Browallia data is a very fine tender annual, 
giving a border or mixed bed a dash of amethyst blue not 
often found in flowers. It is a strong-growing plant with a 
profusion of bloom, and no doubt one of the choicest plants 
of its color in cultivation. There are other species with 
white flowers that serve as contrast, and may be grown 
with this. All of the kinds may be taken up and potted 
in the fall, cutting the plant well back, and a profusion 
of bloom may be obtained through the winter months if 
attention is given to pinching off the seed pods. In the 
garden, let the plants stand 12 in. apart. The plants grow 
1-2 ft. high. 

Brussels Sprouts. This is a vegetable that 
should be more generally known, as it is one of the 
choicest of the cabbage family, and may be had at its 
best after the season for cauliflower has passed. It is 
the better for being touched by the fall frosts. The 
parts used are the buttons or sprouts (miniature cabbage 
heads) that grow thickly along the stem. These should 
be cut off rather than broken. The very small hard 
"sprouts" or buttons are the best. The culture is essen- 
tially the same as for late cabbage or broccoli. One ounce 
will sow 100 ft. of drill, or make upward of 2,000 plants. 
Set plants in field 2-3 ft. apart. They require the entire 
season in which to grow. 

Budding. See Grafting. 



46 amateur's practical garden -book 

Bulbs. The outdoor culture of bulbs is ex- 
tremely simple. They care for themselves throughout a 
greater part of the year, many of them flowering when no 
other plants are able to grow and bloom out of doors. 

While all the so-called Holland bulbs will thrive in any 
kind of soil, they will all do better by being planted in a 
deep, sandy soil well enriched with well rotted manure. 
But do not let the manure come into direct contact with the 
bulb. Even heavy clay soil may be fitted for the growing of 
bulbs by the addition of sharp sand, either worked into the 
soil or placed directly under the bulb when planted. To 
make a bulb bed, choose, if possible, a sandy soil and throw 
out the top soil to the depth of 6 in. Put into the bottom 
of the bed about 2 in. of well rotted manure and spade it 
into the soil. Throw back half of the top soil, level it off 
nicely, set the bulbs firmly on this bed and then cover them 
with the balance of the soil ; in this way one will have the 
bulbs from 3 to 4 in. below the surface. In the fall months 
the top of the ground is cooler than at the depth of 5 or 6 
in. and the top of the bulb will not want to grow, while the 
bottom, which is always in a hurry, will send out roots, 
to push out the leaves and flowers the next spring. When 
the weather is cold enough to freeze a hard crust on the 
soil, the bed should have its winter overcoat. This may be 
straw, hay, cornstalks or leaves spread over the bed to the 
depth of 6 in. if the material is coarse ; but if leaves 
are used, 3 in. will be enough, because the leaves lay close 
together and may smother out the frost that is in the 
ground and let the bulbs start. What we want is to keep 
them asleep until spring, because if they start too early the 
hard freezes of March and early April will spoil their beauty 
if the leaves or flowers are near or above the surface. 
Early in April, in New York, the covering may be removed 
gradually, and should all be off the beds before the leaves 
show above the ground. 

If there is no sandy place for the beds, make them 



BULBS 47 

as directed, leaving the stones in the bottom of the bed 
for drainage. Then, when ready to set the bulb, place 
a large handful of sand where the bulb is to go and set the 
bulb on it. This will keep the water from standing around 
the bulb. Very fine results may be had on heavy soil by 
this method. 

As to kinds of bulbs, select hyacinths, tulips or nar- 
cissus or daffodils, with snowdrops or crocuses of various 
colors around the edge. For the culture of these and other 
bulbs, see the various articles throughout the book. 

The growing of flowering bulbs tlirongli the winter adds 
to the list of house plants a charming variety. The labor, 
time and skill required is much less than that of growing 
many of the larger plants more commonly used for win- 
ter decorations. The larger number of winter bulbs may 
be left out of doors until within four to six weeks of the 
time when they are wanted in flower. Hyacinths, narcissus, 
tulips, and crocus can be made to flower in the winter 
without difficulty. Secure the bulbs so as to be able to pot 
them by the middle or last of October, or if earlier all the 
better. The soil should be rich, sandy loam, if possible; if 
not, the best one can get, to which add about one -fourth 
the bulk of sand and mix thoroughly. If ordinary flower 
pots are to be used, put in the bottom a few pieces of 
broken pots, charcoal or small stones for drainage, then fill 
the pot with dirt so that when the bulbs are set on the dirt 
the top of the bulb is even with the rim of the pot. Fill 
around it with soil, leaving just the tip of the bulb showing 
above the dirt. If the soil is heavy, a good plan is to 
sprinkle a small handful of sand under the bulb to carry off 
the water, the same as is done in the beds outdoors. If one 
does not have pots he may use boxes. Starch boxes are a 
good size to use, as they are not heavy to handle ; and ex- 
cellent flowers are sometimes obtained from bulbs planted 
in old tomato cans. If boxes or cans are used, care must 
be taken to have holes in the bottoms to let the water run 



48 amateur's practical garden -book 

out. A large size hyacinth bulb will do well in a 5 -inch 
pot. The same size pot will do for three or four narcissuses 
or eight to twelve crocuses. 

After the bulbs are planted in the pots or other recep- 
tacles, they should be placed in a cool place, either in a 
cold pit or cellar, or on the shady side of a building, or, 
better yet, plunged or buried up to the rim of the pot in a 
shady border. This is done to force the roots to grow 
while the top stands still ; as only the bulbs with good roots 
will give good flowers. When the weather gets so cold that 
a crust is frozen on the soil, the pots should be covered 
with a little straw, and as the weather gets colder more 
straw must be used. In from six to eight weeks after 
planting the bulbs, they should have made roots enough to 
grow the plant, and they may be taken up and placed in a 
cool room for a week or so, after which, if they have 
started into growth, they may be taken into a warmer room 
where they can have plenty of light. They will grow very 
rapidly now and will want lots of water, and after the 
flowers begin to show, the pots may stand in a saucer of 
water all the time. When just coming into bloom the 
plants may have full sunlight part of the time to help 
bring out the color of the flowers. 

Bushes. See Shrubs. 

Cabbage. For an early crop, the plants must be 
started either in February or early March, or the previous 
September and wintered over in coldframes. This latter 
method was once a common practice by gardeners near large 
cities, but the building of greenhouses to replace the many 
hotbeds of the market -gardener has changed the practice 
in many localities, and now most of the early Cabbages 
in the north are grown from seed sown in January, Feb- 
ruary or March. The plants are hardened off in March and 
early April and planted out as early as possible. The pri- 
vate grower, or one with a small garden, may often procure 
his early plants from the market- gardener much cheaper 




CABBAGE 49 

than he can grow them, as usually only a limited number of 
early Cabbage plants are wanted ; but for the midseason and 
main crop, the seed may be sown in May or June, setting 
the plants in July. 

For early planting, the number of varieties is limited to 
three or four. For an intermediate crop the list is more 
extended, and the late varieties are very numerous. The 
early list is headed by the Jersey Wakefield, a variety which 
heads very quickly, and, although not one of the solid 
kinds, is generally grown. The Early 
York and Winnigstadt are good varie- 
ties to follow it. The latter especially 
is solid and of very good quality. For 
the midseason, the Succession and All 
Season are of the best, and for the win- ■ 
ter supply the Drumhead, Danish Ball 
and Flat Dutch types are the leaders. g^^jy cib^ 

One of the best of the Cabbages for 
table use is seldom seen in the garden — the Savoy Cabbage. 
It is a type with netted leaves, making a large, low-growing 
head, the center of which is very solid and of excellent 
flavor, especially late in the fall, when the heads have had 
a slight touch of frost. Savoy should be grown in every 
private garden. 

The seed-bed should be made mellow and rich. A good 
border will do. The seed is sown preferably in rows, thus 
allowing thinning of the plants and the pulling of any 
weeds that germinate. The young plants will well repay 
attention to watering and thinning. The rows should be 3 
or 4 in. apart. When the plants are large enough to trans- 
plant, they may be planted where early vegetables have 
been grown. Set the plants from 18 to 24 in. apart in the 
row, the rows being 3 ft. apart for the medium- growing 
kinds. One ounce of seed will furnish about two thousand 
plants. All Cabbages require deep and rich soil, and one 
that holds moisture well. 



50 amateur's practical garden -book 

The best remedy for the Cabbage worm is to kill the 
first brood on the very young plants with Paris green. 
After the plants begin to head, pyrethrum or salt water 
may be used. On a small area, hand-picking may be 
recommended. 

The maggot is the most serious Cabbage pest. After 
studying the seventy odd remedies proposed, Slingerland 
concludes that 6 are efficient and practicable : growing the 
young plants in closely covered frames ; tarred paper cards 
placed snugly about the base of the plants to keep the fly 
away ; rubbing the eggs from the base of the plant ; hand- 
picking of the maggots ; treating the plants with emulsion 
of carbolic acid; treating them with carbon bisulfide. The 
insecticidal materials are injected or poured into the soil 
about the base of the plant. 

Respecting these two insecticides, Slingerland remarks: 
"Always use the crude carbolic acid, as it is much cheaper 
than the purified and is nearly, if not quite, as effective. 
It will probably be safer if used as an emulsion than if 
simply diluted with water. We would advise that it be 
made by the follow formula : 1 pound of hard soap or 1 
quart of soft soap dissolved in 1 gallon of boiling water, into 
which 1 pint of crude carbolic acid is then poured and the 
whole mass agitated into an emulsion, which will remain in 
this condition for a long time. In treating the plants, take 
one part of this standard emulsion and dilute it with 30 
equal parts of water; it probably can be used stronger with- 
out injury to the plants. If the emulsion is cold and semi- 
solid, use several parts of warm water at first. Begin the 
treatment early, a day or two after the plants are up, or in 
the case of Cabbages and Cauliflowers the next day after 
they are set in the field, and repeat it once each week or 10 
days until about May 20 in our state. While we have little 
faith in the preventive effects of the early treatments, we do 
believe that the emulsion will then kill many of the eggs 
and recently hatched maggots. If it could be applied with 



CABBAGE MAGGOT 51 

some force through a syringe or force pump, it might not be 
necessary to go to the trouble of first removing some of the 
earth from about the plants. It must be remembered that 
its success will depend on the eggs or maggots being hit 
with it. None of the Cabbages in our experiment were in- 
jured in the least by an application containing nearly twice 
as much of the acid, and there is but little danger of its 
injuring the tenderest foliage of radishes, turnips or onions; 
if any injury manifests itself on these crops, dilute the 
emulsion with 40 or 50 or more parts of water, instead of 30. 
A knapsack or wheelbarrow sprayer would prove a very use- 
ful instrument in applying the emulsion on a large scale." 

The carbon bisulfide is best injected into the soil by 
means of a long-nosed syringe. Slingerland (Cornell Bulletin 
78) illustrates a specially made syringe or injector for this 
purpose : "Thus Cabbage plants can be treated once, and 
once is usually sufficient, at the rate of about 10 plants for 
1 cent for the liquid, using about 1 teaspoouful to each 
plant. As the injector will last for years, and several 
neighbors might join in the purchase and use of one instru- 
ment, its cost would practically not influence this estimate 
of the cost of killing the maggots. We believe it is the 
cheapest, most effective, and most practicable method yet 
devised for fighting this pest on crops of Cabbages and 
cauliflowers; on crops oi radishes, turnips, or onions it will 
probably be too expensive except where choice or new va- 
rieties are attacked. The carbolic acid emulsion will prove 
the most practicable on these last crops." 

The club-root, which causes the roots to become greatly 
thickened and distorted, is difficult to manage if Cabbages 
or allied plants are grown continuously on land in which 
diseased plants have been raised. Changing the location 
of the Cabbage or Cauliflower patch is the best procedure. 
If very different crops, as corn, potatoes, peas, tomatoes, 
etc., are grown on the land, the disease will be starved out 
in two or three years. 



52 



Cacalia. Tassel Flower. Ladies' Paint 

Brush. A quaint old annual, in two colors, scarlet and 
orange. It is easily grown, and makes a fine second-row 
plant for a border, contrasting well with Browallia or Agera- 
tum. Sow where the plants are to stand. Let plants stand 
10-12 inches apart. Grow 1X~2 ft. high. 

Cactus. This class of plants is often seen in 
small collections of house plants, to which they add in- 
terest, being altogether different from other plants. All 
Cacti are easy to grow, requiring but little care and endur- 
ing the heat and dryness of a living room much better than 
most other plants. Their requirements are ample drainage 
and a sandy soil. Cactus growers usually make a soil by 
mixing pulverized plaster or lime refuse with garden 
loam, using about two -thirds of the loam. The very fine 
parts, or dust, of the plaster, are blown out, else the soil 
is likely to cement. They may be rested at any season by 
simply setting them away in a dry place for two or three 
months, and bringing them into heat and light when they 
are wanted. As new growth advances they should have 
water occasionally, and when in bloom they should be 
watered freely. Withhold water gradually after blooming 
until they are to be rested. 

Some of the most common species in cultivation are the 
Phyllocactus species, often called the Night-blooming Cereus. 
These are not the true Night-blooming Cereuses, which have 
angular or cylindrical stems, covered with bristles, while 
this has flat, leaf -like branches; the flowers of these, how- 
ever, are very much like the Cereus, opening at evening 
and closing before morning, and as the Phyllocacti may be 
grown with greater ease, blooming on smaller and younger 
plants, they are to be recommended. See Cereus. 

The Epiphyllum, or Lobster Cactus, is one of the best 
of -the family, easy of culture. It bears bright-colored 
blossoms at the end of each joint. When in flower, which 



CACTUS — CALCEOLARIA 53 

will be through some of the winter months, this requires a 
richer soil than the other Cacti. Opuntias, or prickly pears, 
are often grown as border plants through the summer. In 
fact, all the family may be planted out, and if a number of 
varieties are set in a bed together they make a striking ad- 
dition to the garden. Be very careful not to bruise the 
plants. It is better to plunge them in the pots than to turn 
them out of the pots. 

Caladium. Tuberous -rooted, tender perennial 
plants which are used for conservatory decorations, and 
also for subtropical and bold effects in the lawn. The 
plants which are commonly known under this name are 
really Colocasias. The plants should be rested during the 
winter, being kept in a warm cellar or under a greenhouse 
bench, where they are not liable to frost or dampness. The 
roots are usually kept covered with earth during the winter, 
but they are kept dry. Early in the spring 
the roots are put into boxes or pots and are 
started into growth, so that by the time 
settled weather comes they will be 1 or 2 
feet high and ready to set directly into soil. 
When set out of doors, they should be given 
a place which is protected from strong 
winds, and one which does not receive the 
full glare of direct sunlight. The soil 
should be rich and deep, and the plants "" caiadiiir^iocasia 
should have an abundance of water. Cala- 
diums are most excellent plants for striking effects, espe- 
cially against a house, high shrubbery or other background. 
If they are planted by themselves, they should be in clumps 
rather than scattered as single specimens, as the effect is 
better. See that they get a good start before they are 
planted in the open ground. 

Calceolaria. Small greenhouse herbs which 
are sometimes used in the window-garden. They are not 
very satisfactory plants for window treatment, however, since 




54 amateur's practical garden -book 

they suffer from dry atmosphere and from sudden changes 
of temperature. In the window-garden they should be pro- 
tected from strong, direct sunlight. They are grown from 
seeds. If the seeds are sown in early summer and the 
young plants are transplanted as they need, flowering 
specimens may be had for the late fall and early winter. In 
the growing of the young plants, always avoid exposing 
them to direct sunlight ; but they should be given a place 
which has an abundance of screened or tempered light. A 
new crop of plants should be raised each year. There is a 
race of shrubby Calceolarias, but it is little known in this 
country. One or two species are annuals which ai'e adap- 
table to cultivation in the open garden, and their little, 
ladyslipper-like flowers are attractive. However, they are 
of secondary importance as annual garden flowers. 

Calendula. These are the well known Pot 
Marigolds, and add a bright spot to any garden. Annual. 
Especially are they fine in the cool days of the fall, when 
many of the annual flowers have gone to seed. The places 
of short-lived plants may be filled by sowing seed of Ca- 
lendulas in May, scattering them through the border and 
allowing the plants to grow where they come up. Easy of 
growth and hardy. 1-2 ft. high. Should stand 8-12 in. 
apart. Colors, yellow and orange. 

California Poppy (EsclisclioUzia Calif ornica) . 
Low perennial, poppy-like plant, grown as a hardy annual. 
It is certainly one of the best low-growing annuals, bloom- 
ing through a long season and being at its 
best through the cool days of fall, after 
touched by frost. Most of the varieties have 
flowers of fine shades of orange or yellow, 
making a bright spot in the border at all 
California Poppy times. They are like the pot marigolds, in 

that once planted they seed themselves. 
They are never out of place, and should be left to bloom 
wherever they may be. Flowers open only in sunshine. 




CALIFORNIA POPPY— CALLA 55 

As cut -flowers they are excellent, a large bowl of them glow- 
ing like a golden ball,, especially if they are emphasized by 
a few blue larkspurs or batchelor's buttons. 

Propagated by seed, which would best be sown as soon 
as ripe, thus giving the plant an early start, and having 
bloom through the season. They make attractive mats of 
foliage. 12-18 in. high. Let the plants stand 10-20 in. 
apart. 

Calla (properly Bichardia) . Egyptian Lily. 

All things considered, this is one of the most satisfactory of 
winter house plants, lending itself to various conditions. 
The requirements of the Calla are rich soil and an abun- 
dance of water, with the roots confined in as small a space 
as possible. If a too large pot is used the growth of foliage 
will be very rank, at the expense of the flowers, but by using 
a smaller sized pot and applying liquid manure the flowers 
will be produced freely. A 6 -inch pot will be large enough 
for all but an exceptionally large bulb. If desired, a number 
of bulbs may be grown together in a larger pot. The soil 
should be very rich but fibrous— at least one-third well 
rotted manure will be none too much, mixed with equal 
parts of fibrous loam and sharp sand. The tubers should be 
planted firmly and the pots set in a cool place to make roots. 
After the roots have partially filled the pot, the plant may 
be brought into heat and given a sunny position and an 
abundance of water. An occasional sponging or washing of 
the leaves will free them from dust. No other treatment 
will be required until the flowers appear, when liquid ma- 
nure may be given. The plant will thrive all the better at 
this time if the pot is placed in a saucer of water. In fact, 
the Calla will grow finely in an aquarium. The Calla may 
be grown through the entire year, but it will prove more 
satisfactory, both in leaf and flower, if rested through part 
of the summer. This may be done by laying the pots on 
their sides in a dry, shady place under shrubbery, or if in 
the open slightly covered with straw or other litter to keep 



56 amateur's practical garden -book 

the roots from becoming extremely dry. In September or 
October they may be shaken out, cleaning off all the old soil, 
and repotted, as already mentioned. The offsets may be 
taken off and set in small pots and given a year's growth, 
resting them the second year and having them in flower that 
winter. 

The spotted Calla has variegated foliage and is a fine 
plant for mixed collections. This blooms in the spring, 
which will lengthen the season of Calla bloom. The treat- 
ment of this is similar to that of the common Calla. 

Calliopsis is a garden name for Coreopsis. 

Callirhoe. C. pedata is a hardy annual which 
has large, graceful blossoms of violet or red. Is it a very 
free -blooming plant. Should be started in a frame and 
planted out where wanted. 2-3 ft. high and grows bushy. 
Plants should stand 1X~2 ft. apart. 

Camellia. Years ago Camellias were very pop- 
ular, but they have been crowded out by the informal flowers 
of recent times. Their time will come again. They are 
half-hardy woody plants, blooming in late winter and 
spring. During the blooming season keep them cool — 
say not over 50° at night and a little higher by day. 
When blooming is done they begin to grow, then give 
them more heat and plenty of water. See that they are 
well ripened by winter. Always screen them from direct 
sunlight. Do not try to force them in early winter, after 
the growth has ceased. Their summer quarters may be in 
a protected place in the open air. Propagated by cut- 
tings in winter, which should give blooming plants in two 
years. Use a porous soil for Camellias, with considerable 
leaf-mold. 

Campanula. Bell Flower. But one of the 

Campanulas commonly listed by seedsmen is an annual, — C. 
macrostyla, a clean-leaved plant, growing 2 feet high, spread- 
ing over the ground, and bearing a profusion of large, violet, 




CAMPANULA— CANNA 57 

bell- shaped flowers. The Canterbury Bell is the best known. 
It is biennial, but if started early and transplanted will 
bloom the first season. The perennial Campanulas are 
most excellent for borders. C. Carpatica is particularly 
good for edgings. 

Canary Bird Flower. See Nasturtium. 

Candytuft. Well known sweet-scented hardy 
annuals, in red, purple, and white; easy of 
culture and fine for cutting. One of the 
best of edging plants for the front row. The 
plants grow from 6 in. to 1 ft. tall. Sow 
seeds where the plants are to grow, letting 
plants stand 6-12 in. apart. They do not 
last the entire season, and successive sow- candytuft 

ings may well be made. There are also perennial kinds. 

Canna is now the favorite bedding plant. The 
improvements made in the past ten years, in size and 
markings of the flowers, have created a liking for the plant. 
The tropical effect of a large bed of Cannas, either mixed 
or of one color, is not surpassed by any other plant used for 
bedding purposes. 

The Canna may be grown from seed and had in bloom 
the first year by sowing in February or March, in 
boxes or pots placed in hotbeds or warmhouse, first 
soaking the seeds in warm water for a short time. Atten- 
tion to transplanting as needed and removal to the ground 
only when it is well warmed are the necessary requirements. 
The majority of Cannas, however, are grown from pieces of 
the roots (rhizomes), each piece having a bud. The roots 
may be divided at any time in the winter, and if early 
flowers and foliage are wanted the pieces may be planted in 
a hotbed or warmhouse in early April, started into growth 
and planted out where wanted as soon as the ground has 
warmed and all danger of frost is over. A hardening of the 
plants, by leaving the sash off the hotbeds, or setting the 



Sfc,l(»/a^l-> 




plants in shallow boxes and placing the boxes in a shel- 
tered position through May, not forgetting a liberal supply 
of water, will fit the plants to take kindly to the 
final planting out. After frost has injured the tops, 
the roots may be dug, choosing, if possible, a dry 
day. The soil is shaken off and the roots stored 
in a warm, dry place through the winter. If the 
cellar is too dry the roots are liable to shrivel, 
in which case it would be best to cover them with 
soil or sand, filling in around the roots to exclude 
the drying air. 

Cannas grow 3 to 7 ft. high. For dense mass 
effects, plant 12-18 in. apart. For individual plants, 
or for best bloom, give more room. Fine clumps 
may be had by planting out the entire old root, not 
dividing it. Cannas want a rich, warm soil and a sunny 
place. They are very easy to grow. 
Canterbury Bell is a Campanula. 
Carbonate of Copper. See Bordeaux Mixture. 
Cardiospermum. See Balloon Vine. 

Carnations are of two types, the outdoor or 
garden varieties, and the indoor or forcing kinds. Nor- 
mally, the Carnation is a hardy perennial, but the garden 
kinds, or Marguerites, are usually treated as annuals. The 
forcing kinds are flowered but once, new plants being grown 
each year from cuttings. 

Marguerite Carnations bloom the year the seed is sown, 
and with a slight protection will bloom freely the sec- 
ond year. They make attractive house plants if potted 
in the fall. The seeds of these Carnations should be sown 
in boxes in March and the young plants set out as early as 
possible, pinching out the center of the plant to make them 
branch freely. Give the same space as for garden pinks. 

The winter-flowering Carnations have become prime 
favorites with all flower lovers, and a collection of winter 




CARNATION 59 

house plants seems incomplete without them. Carnations 
grow readily from cuttings made of the suckers that form 
around the base of the stem, the side shoots of the flowering 
stem, or the main shoots before they show flower buds. The 
cuttings from the base make the best plants in 
most cases. These cuttings may be taken from 
a plant at any time through the fall or win- 
ter, rooted in sand and potted up, to be held 
in pots until the planting out time in the 
spring, usually in April, or any time when the 
ground is ready to handle. Care should be 
taken to pinch out the tops of young plants 
while growing in the pot, and later while in 
the ground, causing them to grow stocky and 
send out new growths along the stem. The 
young plants should be grown cool, a temper- 
ature of 45° suiting them well. Attention Carnation 
should be given to spraying the cuttings each day while in 
the house to keep down the red spider, which is very partial 
to the Carnation. In the summer, the plants are 
grown in the field, and not in pots. The soil in 
which they are to be planted should be moderately 
rich and loose. Clean cultivation should be given 
throughout the summer. Frequently pinch out the 
tops. The plants are taken up in September and 
potted firmly, and well watered ; then set in a 
cool, partially shaded situation until root growth 
has started, spraying the foliage often, and water- 
carnationcur i^g the plant Only as it shows need of water. 

ting rjijjg usual living-room conditions as to moisture 

and heat are not such as the Carnation demands, and care 
must be taken to overcome the dryness by spraying the foli- 
age and setting the plant in a position not exposed to the 
direct heat of a stove or the sun. In commercial houses, it 
is not often necessary to spray established plants. Pick off 
most or all of the side buds, in order to add to the size of 





60 



the leading flowers. After all is said, it is probably advis- 
able in most cases to purchase the plants when in bloom 
from a florist, and after blooming either throw them away 
or store them for planting in the spring, when 'they will 
bloom throughout the summer. 

Carpet Bedding. See Bedding. 
Carrot, while essentially a farm crop in this 
country, is nevertheless a most acceptable garden vege- 
table. It is hardy and easily grown. The extra - 
early varieties may be forced in a hotbed, or seed 
may be sown as soon as the ground is fit to work in 
the spring. The stump-rooted, or half-long varieties, 
are sown for the general garden crop. Well en- 
riched, mellow loam, deeply dug or plowed, is best 
suited to the requirements of Carrots. The seed for 
the main crop may be sown as late as July 1. 
Early Carrots g^^ tMcMy, thinning to 3-4 in. in the row. The 
rows, if in a garden that is hand-worked, may be 12 in. 
apart. If the cultivation is done by a horse, the rows should 
be from 2 to 3 ft. apart. One ounce will sow 100 feet of drill. 
Castor Oil Plant. In the entire list of quick - 
growing plants there is none that ex- 
cels this for rapidity of growth, grace 
of foliage and rich effect. Used either 
as a specimen plant, with eannas, ca- 
ladiums, or for a tropical bed, or as 
a screen, it gives the most satisfac- 
tory results. Seeds sown early in the 
house, and the plants grown in the 
full light, make fine, stocky plants to 
set out about the middle of May. 
With rich soil and plenty of water, castor Bean 

they will grow without a check until frost. Height, 5-12 
ft. For screens, plant 3-4 ft. apart. There are varieties 
with differing shades of foliage. 




CAULIFLOWER— CELERIAC 61 

Cauliflower. The general culture of Cauliflower 
is much like that of cabbage, except that the Cauliflower, 
being more tender, should be moi-e thoroughly hardened 
off before setting out. Still, it is essential that the plants 
be set out as early as possible, as the warm weather of 
June causes them to make imperfect heads unless the soil 
is filled with moisture. No garden crop will as well repay 
the cost and time of thorough irrigation, either by running 
the water between the rows or applying it directly to the 
plants. When it is impossible to furnish water, it would 
be a good plan to mulch heavily with straw or some other 
substance. This mulch, if put on just after a heavy 
rain, will hold the moisture for a long time. When the 
heads begin to form the outside leaves may be brought to- 
gether and tied above the head, excluding the direct sun- 
shine and keeping the head white and 
tender. No vegetable will respond 
more quickly to good culture and 
well manured soil than the Cauli- 
flower, and none will prove such an 
utter failure when neglected. It is 
imperative that care be taken to de- 
stroy all the cabbage worms before 
the leaves are tied in, as after that 

it will be impossible to see or reach them. Cauliflower 
prospers best in moist soil and a cool climate. From 1,000 
to 1,500 plants maybe grown from 1 ounce of seed. Good 
Cauliflower seed is very expensive. 

For winter crop, seeds may be started in June or July, 
as for late cabbage. 

Erfurt, Snowball and Paris are popular early varieties. 
Nonpareil and Algiers are good late kinds. 

Celeriac, or Turnip- rooted Celery. This 

tuber has the celery flavor in a pronounced degree, and is 
used for flavoring soups and for celery salad. It may be 
served raw, sliced in vinegar and oil, or boiled. The culture 




62 



amateur's practical garden -book 



is the same as given for celery, except that no earthing or 
blanching is required. About an equal number of plants are 
obtained from the same weight of seed as from celery seed. 
Celeriac is extensively used abroad, but, unfortunately, is 
little grown in America. 

Celery has become one of the favorite relish 
and salad vegetables, and is now very generally grown. The 
self-blanching varieties have simplified the culture so that 
the amateur, as well as the expert, may have a supply 
through at least six months of the year. The so-called new 
culture, which consists of setting the plants close together 
and causing them to shade each other, can be recommended 
for the garden when a supply of well rotted manure is to be 
had, and when any amount of water is available. This 
method is as follows : Fork or spade 
into the soil a large quantity of manure 
to the depth of 10-12 in., pulverize the 
soil until the ground for the depth of 4-6 
in. is in very fine condition. Then set 
the plants in rows 10 in. apart and the 
plants but 5 or 6 in. apart in the rows. 
It will be seen that plants set as close 
as this will soon fill the soil with a mass 
of roots and must have large amounts 
of plant-food, as well as a large quan- 
tity of water ; and the making of such 
a bed can be recommended only to 
those who can supply these needs. 

The common practice in home gardens is to plow or dig a 
shallow trench, setting the plants in the bottom and hoeing 
in the soil as the plants grow. The distance apart of the 
rows and plants will depend on the varieties. For the dwarf 
varieties, such as White Plume, Golden Self-blanching and 
others of that type, the rows may be as close as 3 ft. and the 
plants 6 in. in the rows. For the large-growing varieties, as 
Kalamazoo, Giant Pascal and, in fact, most of the late varie- 




Celery 



CELERY 63 

ties, the rows may be from 4% to 5 ft. apart and the plants 
7 or 8 in. in the row. 

The seed for an early crop should be sown in February or 
early in March in shallow boxes, which may be placed in a 
hotbed or sunny window, or sown directly in the soil of a 
hotbed. Cover the seeds thinly and press the soil firmly 
over them. When the seedling plants are about one inch 
high they should be transplanted to other boxes or hot- 
beds, setting the plants 1 in. apart in rows 3 in. apart. At 
this transplanting, as with the following ones, the tall leaves 
should be cut or pinched off, leaving only the upright growth, 
as with the utmost care it is almost impossible to prevent 
the outside leafstalks from wilting down and dying. The 
roots of the plants should also be trimmed back at each trans- 
planting in order to increase the feeding roots. The plants 
should be set as deep as possible, care being taken, however, 
not to allow the heart of the plant to, be covered up. The 
varieties usually grown for an early crop are the so-called 
self -blanching varieties. They may be made fit for the table 
with much less labor than the late crop, the shade required 
to blanch the stalks being much less. When only a few short 
rows are grown in a private garden, screens of lath may be 
made by driving stakes on each side of the row and tacking 
lath on, leaving spaces of an inch or more for the light to 
enter ; or each head may be wrapped in paper, or a tile drain 
pipe may be set over the plant. In fact, any material that 
will exclude the light will render the stalks white and 
brittle. 

The seed for the main or fall crop should be sown in April 
or early May in a seed bed prepared by forking fine, well 
rotted manure into a fine soil, sowing the seed thinly in 
rows 8 or 10 in. apart, covering the seed lightly and firm- 
ing over the seed with the feet, hoe or back of a spade. 
This seed bed should be kept moist at all times until the 
seed germinates, either by close attention to watering or by 
a lath screen. The use of a piece of cloth laid directly on 



64 



the soil, and the bed wet through the cloth, is often recom- 
mended, and if the cloth is always wet and taken off the 
bed as soon as the seed sprouts it can be used. After the 
young plants have grown to the height of 1 or 2 in. they 
must be thinned out, leaving the plants so that they do not 
touch each other, and transplantingthose thinned — if wanted — 
to other ground prepared in the same manner as the seed 
bed. All these plants may be sheared or cut back to in- 
duce stockiness. 

If in a private garden, the ground on which the fall 
crop is usually set will likely be land from which a crop of 
some early vegetable has been taken. This land should be 
again well enriched with fine, well rotted manure, to which 
may be added a liberal amount of wood ashes. If the ma- 
nure or ashes are not easily obtained, a small amount may 
be used by plowing or digging out a furrow 8 or 12 in. deep, 
scattering the manure and ashes in the bottom of the trench 
and filling it up almost level with the surface. The plants 
should be set about the middle of July, preferably just before 
a rain. The plant bed should have a thorough soaking 
shortly before the plants are lifted, and each plant be trim- 
med, both top and root, before setting. The plants should 
be set from 5 to 6 in. apart in the rows and the earth well 
firmed around each one. 

The after -cultivation consists in thorough tillage 
until the time of " handling " or earthing up the 
plants. This process of handling is accomplished by 
drawing up the earth with one hand while holding the 
plant with the other, packing the soil well around the stalks. 
This process may be continued until only the leaves are to 
be seen. For the private grower, it is much easier to blanch 
the Celery with boards or paper, or if the Celery is not 
wanted until winter, the plants may be dug up, packed 
closely in boxes, covering the roots with soil, and placed in 
a dark, cool cellar, where the stalks will blanch themselves 
In this manner Celery may be stored in boxes in the hous 



CELERY— CENTURY PLANT 65 

cellar. Put earth in the bottom of a deep box, and plant 
the Celery in it. An ounce of seed will furnish about three 
thousand plants. 

Centaurea. Showy annuals and perennials. 
C. Cyanus is the Corn Flower or Bachelor Button, 
familiar to every flower lover, and always seen in old- 
fashioned gardens. This is a fine plant for borders or 
mixed beds, and also gives good flowers for bouquets. A 
bunch of the Corn Flower, with a sprinkling of yellow 
marigolds or California poppy, makes a rich effect. 
These Centaureas are easy of culture, seeding themselves 
after once being planted, and coming up year after year in 
great profusion. There are blue, white and rose varieties. 
Annuals. 2-3 ft. Hardy. 

The silver-leaved Centaureas are used only for foliage 
effects. They are excellent for ribbon beds or border lines. 
The seed of these should be started in a hotbed or box in 
March, the young plants being set out where wanted when 
the ground becomes warm. These species are perennials, 
and are sometimes grown from cuttings. C. candid issima 
and C. gymnocarpa are among the best white-leaved bedders. 

Centranthus. Low -growing hardy annuals in 
two colors, red and white. They make very effective 
covering for low rockwork, and are also suitable for vases 
or lawn baskets-. Sow where the plants are to stand, or 
start indoors if early bloom is wanted. 1 ft. Thin to 10-12 
in. apart. 

Century Plant, or Agave. These are fine or- 
namental plants for the window- garden or conservatory, re- 
quiring but little care and growing slowly, thus needing 
repotting only at long intervals. When the plants have 
outgrown their usefulness as house plants, they are still 
valuable as porch decorations, for plunging in rockwork or 
about rustic nooks. The striped-leaved variety is the most 
desirable, but the common type, with its blue-gray leaves, 
is highly ornamental. 



There are a number of dwarf - growing species of Agave 
that are not so common, although they may be grov/n with 
ease. Such plants add novelty to a collection, and may be 
used through the summer as noted above or plunged with 
cactus in a bed of tropical plants. All succeed well in 
loam and sand in equal parts, adding a little leaf-mold in 
the case of the small varieties. The more common species 
are propagated by suckers from around the base of the 
established plants. A few kinds having no suckers must 
be grown from seed. As to watering, they demand no 
special care. Agaves will not stand frost. 

Cereus. Under the name of Night -blooming 

Cereus, several species of Cacti are cultivated. The name 
is sometimes applied to species of Phyllocactus, the flowers 
of which, in white and shades of red, sometimes open at 
nightfall. Phyllocactuses are easy to grow. See Cactus. 
The true Night-blooming Cereuses, however, are species of 
the genus Cereus. The commonest one is C. nycticalus, but 
C. grandijlorus, C. triangularis and others are occasionally 
seen. These true Night-blooming Cereuses all have long rod- 
like stems, which are cylindrical or angular. These stems 
often reach a height of 10 to 30 ft., and they need support. 
They should be trained along a pillar or tied to a stake. 
They are uninteresting leafless things during a large part 
of the year ; but in midsummer, after they are three or 
more years old, they throw out their great tubular flowers, 
which open at nightfall and wither and die when the light 
strikes them next morning. They are very easily grown, 
either in pots or planted in the natural soil in the conserva- 
tory. The only special care they need is good drainage at 
the roots, so that the soil will not become soggy. 

Cherry. Of Cherries there are two common 
types, the sweet Cherries and the sour Cherries. The sweet 
Cherries are larger and taller- growing trees. They com- 
prise the varieties known as the Hearts, Bigarreaus and 
Dukes. The sour Cherries include the various kinds of 



CHERRY— CHERVIL 



67 




Morellos and pie Cherries, and these usually ripen after the 
sweet Cherries. The sour Cherries make low, round-headed 
trees. The fruits are extensively used for 
canning. Cherry trees should be planted 
when 2 and 3 years old. Too rich soil tends 
to make growth at the expense of fruit, par- 
ticularly in the sweet Cherries. For the 
sweet types, a strong, gravelly loam is best. 
Sour Cherries thrive well on clay loams. 

Trees of the sour Cherry should be 
planted 18 by 18 ft. apart, in well prepared 
under-drained soil. The trees may be 
slightly trimmed back each year, keeping 
the head low and bushy. Sweet cherry 

The sweet Cherries have proved disappointing in many 
instances from the rotting of the fruit. This may never be 
entirely avoided, but good cultivation, soil not too rich in 
nitrogen, attention to spraying, and picking the fruit when 
dry, will lessen the loss very much. In years 
of severe rotting, the fruit should be picked 
before it becomes fully ripe, placed in a cool, 
airy room and allowed to color. It will be 
nearly as well flavored as if left on the tree ; 
and, as the fungus usually attacks only the 
ripe fruit, a considerable part of the crop may 
be saved. Set the trees 25 or 30 ft. apart. 
Leaf-blight is readily controlled by timely 
spraying with Bordeaux mixture. The curculio or fruit worm 
is best controlled by jarring, as for plums (which see). 

Of sweet Cherries, Windsor is the most popular variety. 
Other good kinds are Napoleon, Governor Wood, Dikeman, 
Black Tartarian. Of sour Cherries, Ostheim and Early 
Richmond are very early and productive, but better kinds 
are Montmorency and English Morello. 

Chervil. The curled Chervil is a good addi- 
tion to the list of garnishing vegetables, and adds flavor to 




Black Tartarian Cherry 



68 amateur's practical garden -book 

dishes when it is used to season. Sow seeds and cultivate 
the same as parsley. 

The tuberous Chervil resembles a short carrot or 
parsnip. It is much esteemed in France and Germany. 
The tubers have somewhat the flavor of a sweet potato, per- 
haps a little sweeter. They are perfectly hardy, and, like 
the parsnip, the better for frosts. The seed may be 
sown in September or October, as it does not keep well ; or 
as soon as the ground is fit to work in the spring, it being 
slow to germinate after the weather becomes hot and dry. 
One packet of seed will give all the plants necessary. 

Chestnuts. Of Chestnuts there are three types 
in cultivation: the European, the Japanese, and the Amer- 
ican. The American, or native Chestnuts, of which there 
are several improved varieties, are [the hardiest and most 
reliable, and the nuts are the sweetest, but they are also the 
smallest. The Japanese varieties are usually injured by the 
winter in central New York. The European varieties are 
somewhat hardier, and some of the varieties will thrive in 
the northern states. Chestnuts are very easily grown. 
They usually bear better when two or more trees are 
planted near each other. There are few really good Chest- 
nut orchards in North America, but Chestnut planting is now 
considerably agitated. Sprouts in old Chestnut clearings 
are often allowed to remain, and sometimes they are 
grafted to the improved varieties. The young trees may be 
grafted in the spring by the whip-graft or cleft-graft 
method ; but the cions should be perfectly dormant, and 
the operation should be very carefully done. Even with 
the best workmanship, a considerable percentage of the 
grafts are likely to fail or to break off after two or three 
years. The most popular single variety of Chestnut is the 
Paragon, which bears large and excellent nuts when the 
tree is very young. When the home ground is large 
enough, two or three of these trees should be planted near 
the borders. 



CHICORY — CHRYSANTHEMUM 69 

Chicory. The Magdeburg Chicory is the va- 
riety usually spoken of, it being the one most extensively 
grown. The roots of this, after being ground and 
roasted, are used either as a substitute or an adulterant of 
coffee. 

The Witloof, a form of Chicory, is used as a salad, 
or boiled and served in the same manner as Cauliflower. 
The plants should be thinned to 6 in. In the latter part of 
summer they should be banked up like celery, and the leaves 
used after becoming white and tender. This and the com- 
mon wild Chicory are often dug in the fall, the leaves cut 
off, the roots packed in sand in a cellar and watered until a 
new growth of leaves starts. These leaves grow rapidly and 
are very tender, making a fine salad vegetable. One 
packet of seed of the Witloof will furnish plants enough for 
a large family. 

Chrysanthemums are both annual and per- 
ennial. The annual Chrysanthemums must not be con- 
founded with the well known fall -flowering kinds, as they 
will prove a disappointment if one expects large flowers of 
all colors and shapes. The annuals are mostly coarse- 
growing plants, with an abundance of bloom and a 
rank smell. The flowers are single in most cases, and 
not very lasting. They are useful for massing and 
also for cut -flowers. They are among the easiest of 
hardy annuals to grow. The stoniest part of the 
garden will usually suit them. 1-2 ft. Colors white 
and shades of yellow, the flowers daisy-like. 

Amongst perennial kinds, Chrysanthemum frutescens ch'ysanthemum 
is the well known Paris Daisy or Marguerite, one of 
the most popular of the genus. This makes a very flne pot- 
plant for the window-garden, blooming throughout the win- 
ter and spring months. It is usually propagated by cut- 
tings, which, if taken in spring, will give large blooming 
plants for the next winter. Gradually transfer to larger 
pots or boxes, until the plants finally stand in 6-ineh or 




70 



AMATEUR'S PRACTICAL GARDEN -BOOK 




Chrysanthemums in a box 



8-inch pots or in small soap boxes. There is a fine yellow- 
flowered variety. 

In variety of form and color, and in size of bloom, the 
florists' Chrysanthemum is one of the most 
wonderful. of plants. It is a late autumn 
flower, and it needs little artificial heat to 
bring it to perfection. The great blooms of 
the exhibitions are produced by growing 
only one flower to a plant and by feeding 
the plant heavily. It is hardly possible for 
the amateur to grow such specimen flowers 
as the professional florist or gardener does; 
neither is it necessary. A well-grown plant 
with fourteen to twenty flowers is far more satisfactory as 
a window plant than a long, stiff stem with only one im- 
mense flower at the apex. Their culture is simple, much 
more so than that of many of the plants commonly grown 
for house decoration. Although their season of bloom is 
short, the satisfaction of having a fall display of flowers 
before the geraniums, begonias and other house 
plants have recovered from their removal from out 
of doors, repays all efforts. 

Cuttings taken in March or April, planted out in 
the border in May, well tended through the summer 
and lifted before frost in September, will bloom in 
October or November. The ground in which they 
are planted should be moderately rich and moist. 
The plants may be tied to stakes. When the buds 
show, all but the center one of each cluster on the 
leading shoots should be picked off, as also the small 
lateral branches. A thrifty bushy plant thus treated 
will usually have flowers large enough to show the 
character of the variety, also enough flowers to make 
a fine display. As to the receptacle into which to put 
them when lifted from the border, it need not be a 
flower pot. A pail or soap box, with holes bored for drain- 




CHRYSANTHEMUM— CINERARIA 



71 




Vase of small 




age, will suit the plant just as well, and by covering the 

box with cloth or paper the difference will not be noticed. 

If cuttings are not to be had, young plants may be bought 

of the florists and treated in the manner described. 

Buy them in midsummer or earlier. 

It is best not to attempt to flower the same plant 
two seasons. After the plant has bloomed, the top 
may be cut down, and the box set in a cellar and 
kept moderately dry. In February or March, 
bring the plant to the sitting-room window 
and let the shoots start from the root. These 
Chrysanthemums gj^oo^s are taken for cuttings to grow plants 
for the fall bloom. 

There is a hardy race of Chrysanthemums, very 
excellent for the border. Mulch in winter. The best 
bloom is usually given the first and second years. 

Cineraria. A tender greenhouse plant. It may 
be grown as a house plant, although the conditions nec- 
essary to the best results are hard to obtain outside of a 
greenhouse. The conditions for their growing are a cool 
temperature, frequent repotting and guarding against the 
attacks of the greenfly. Perhaps the last is the most diffi- 
cult, and with one having no facilities for fumigating, it 
will be almost impossible to prevent the difficulty. A 
living room usually has too dry air for Cinerarias. The 
seed, which is very minute, should be sown in August or 
September to have plants in bloom in January or Feb- 
ruary. Sow the seed on the surface of fine soil and water 
very lightly to settle the seeds into the soil. A piece of 
glass or a damp cloth may be spread over the pot or box 
in which the seeds are sown, to remain until the seeds are 
up. Always keep the soil damp, but not wet. When the 
seedlings are large enough to repot, they should be potted 
singly in 2- or 3 -inch pots. Before the plants have be- 
come pot -bound, they should again be repotted into larger 
pots, until they are in at least a 6 -inch pot in which to 



72 amateur's practical garden -book 

bloom. In all this time, they should be grown cool and, 
if not possible to fumigate them with tobacco smoke, the 
pots should stand on tobacco stems, which should be moist 
at all times. The general practice, in order to have bushy- 
plants, is to pinch out the center when the flower buds 
show, causing the lateral branches to start, which they are 
slow to do if the central stem is allowed to grow. Plants 
bloom but once. 

Gives. These belong to the onion family, and 

are propagated by division of the root. They may be planted 
in a permanent place in the border, and, being hardy, will 
remain for years. The leaves are the parts used, as the 
roots are very rank in flavor. The leaves may be cut fre- 
quently, as they readily grow again. 

Clarkia. The Clarkias are among the popular 
hardy edging and vase annuals, bearing rose, white or 
bordered flowers in great profusion. The double -flower- 
ing varieties are the most showy, but the single ones 
will prove very satisfactory. The seeds may be sown where 
the plants are wanted, or started in frames for earlier 
flowers. 6-18 in. high. Thin to 6-12 in. apart. Plant 
in a warm soil and sunny place. 

Clematis. One of the best of woody climbing 

vines. The common C. Flammula, Virginiana, panieulata 
and others are used frequently to cover division walls or 
fences, growing year after year without any care and pro- 
ducing quantities of flowers. C. paniculata is now planted 
very extensively. The panicles of star- shaped flowers en- 
tirely cover the vine and have a pleasant fragrance. One 
of the best of all fall-flowering vines, and hardy North. 
Clings well to a chicken-wire trellis. 

The large-flowered section, of which Jackmani is per- 
haps the best known, is very popular for pillar or porch 
climbers. The flowers of this section are large and showy, 
running from pure white, through blue, to scarlet. Of this 




CLEMATIS— COCKSCOMB 73 

class, the most serviceable purple is Jaekmani ; white, 
Henryi ; blue, Ramona ; crimson, Madame E. Andre. 

The Flammula class may be propagated by division of 
the roots. The large -flowered kinds are propagated by 
layers or root -grafting on C. Flammula and others. 

A deep, mellow, rich soil, naturally moist, will suit the 
requirements of Clematis. In dry times apply water freely, 
particularly for the large-flowered kinds. Also 
provide trellis or other support as soon as they ^l-J^^^ 
begin to run. Clematis usually blooms on th® \^J^ 
wood of the season : therefore prune in winter 
or early spring, in order to secure strong new Clematis pamcuiata 
flowering shoots. The large-flowered kinds should be cut 
back to the ground each year; and other kinds may be simi- 
larly treated unless they are wanted for permanent bowers. 

The Clematis root disease is the depredation of a nem- 
atode or eel-worm. It is seldom troublesome in ground 
which thoroughly freezes. 

Climbers. Treated under Vines. 

Cobsea. This is most commonly seen in the 

greenhouse, although it is one of the best of tender 
climbers for porches. Seed sown in February or March, 
and grown in gentle heat, will make suitable plants for set- 
ting out by June. It may also be grown from cuttings of 
the young wood, taken in February and rooted in brisk 
heat. The flowers of C. scandens are shaped very much 
like those of the Campanulas, but are larger. They open a 
greenish white and deepen to a dark purple in the course of 
a few days. The vines in full bloom have a gradation of 
colors as the flowers are in different stages of development. 
The variegated form of C. scandens should be propagated 
by cuttings to hold the variegation. Grows 10-15 ft. 
Tender. Climbs by means of tendrils. 

Cockscomb. Celosia cristata is the well known 
Cockscomb, having combs or heads of scarlet, crimson, 



74 amateur's practical garden -book 

rose and yellow. The combs are often saved for winter 
bouquets by cutting them off before thoroughly ripe and 
drying them. The feathered section comprises tall -growing 
plants with plumes of various colors which, with the colored 
leaves of some varieties, make a striking feature in a 
border. The Celosias, being tender, should be started in a 
hotbed or frame, potted off when out of the seed-leaf, and 
planted out in well enriched soil after danger of frost is 
past. lX-2% ft. high. 

Coldframe. A Coldframe is a simple, low 
structure, covered with glass or oiled paper or cloth, in 
which plants are grown without artificial heat. It differs 
from the hotbed in the fact that it has no bottom heat. The 
atmosphere in the Coldframe is warmer than that outside, 
because it is protected from the winds and because there 
is more or less of the sun's heat stored up in the earth. 
For the details of construction of the Coldframe, see 
Hothed. 

A Coldframe is ordinarily used for later work than the hot- 
bed: that is, seeds maybe sown in a Coldframe from two to 
three and sometimes four weeks in advance of their sowing 
in the open ; whereas in a hotbed the seeds may be started 
from one to three months earlier than they may be out of 
doors. Coldframes are sometimes used for the wintering 
over of hardy plants which are started in the fall. For 
example, cabbage seed may be sown in September in a 
Coldframe and the young plants may be protected therein 
during the winter. If they are properly grown and hard- 
ened off, they will not be injured by the winter, even 
though they freeze. Lettuce and sometimes cauliflowers are 
carried over in the same way. Coldframes are also used to 
receive plants which have outgrown the hotbed and must be 
transplanted. Plants which need hardening off may also be 
transplanted from the hotbed into the Coldframe. The 
Coldframe in these cases is an intermediate stage between 
the hotbed and the open field. 



COLEUS— COREOPSIS 75 

Coleus. A well known foliage plant for pot 
culture or bedding. It was used very extensively at one 
time in ornamental bedding and ribbon borders, but owing 
to its being tender has lost in favor, and its place is 
largely taken by other plants. Cuttings root very readily. 
It may also be grown from seed, although the types have 
not become fixed, and a large number of differently marked 
plants may be had from the same packet. This would not 
be a drawback in the window-garden, unless a uniform 
effect is wished. Sow the seed in gentle heat in March. 
Make new plants from cuttings each year, and throw the 
old ones away. 

Collards. This is a name given to a kind of 
kale, used when young as greens; also to young cabbages 
used in the same way. The seed of any early cabbage 
may be sown thickly in rows 18 inches apart, from early 
spring to late fall. The plants are cut off when 6 or 8 
inches high and boiled as are other greens. The kale 
Collards is grown in the South, where cabbages fail to 
head. It grows to the height of 2 to 6 feet, furnishing a 
large quantity of leaves. 

CoUinsia. A hardy annual that should be 
sown in the fall, where wanted, if early flowers are desired. 
The flowers of all the varieties are showy, either in masses 
or planted in a border. Give them a position near the front, 
as the plants rarely exceed 18 inches in height. 

Columbine. See Aquilegia. 

Compost. See Mamire. 

Convolvulus. See Morning- Glory. 

Coreopsis, or Calliopsis. Very showy hardy 
annuals, growing from 1 to 3 feet high, and covered through- 
out the season with a profusion of bloom. The colors range 
from lemon -yellow to dark velvety brown. Excellent for 
cutting, and very effective in mixed borders. They thrive in 



76 amateur's practical garden -book 

any garden soil if they have full sunlight. Sow where 
they are to grow, letting the plants stand 6-12 in. apart for 
mass effects. 

Corn Salad. This is one of the earliest spring 

salad vegetables, coming into condition to use with spinach, 
and needing the same culture. Sown in the fall, and cov- 
ered with straw or hay when cold weather sets in, it will 
start into rapid growth when the covering is removed in 
March or April. Or the seed may be sown in early spring, 
and plants will be fit to use in six or eight weeks. One 
packet of seed will suffice for a small family. 

Corn, Sweet, is not so generally used as it 

should be. Usually when planted at all, only one planting 
of one kind is made. The ears come to edible maturity 
almost simultaneously, and a short season of Sweet Corn is 
the result. The first planting should be made from May 1 
to 10, planting early, intermediate and late varieties at the 
same time, then at intervals of two weeks until the middle 
of July, when the late varieties should be planted, thus 
having a succession from the first crop until October. 
The soil for Corn should be rich in plant-food, and the 
coarser manure left from the preparation of the ground for 
small crops may be used to good advantage. Corn for the 
garden is better planted in drills, the drills 3 feet apart, 
dropping the seed from 10 to 12 inches apart in the drills. 
One quart of seed will plant 200 hills. 

For extra early, Marblehead, Adams, Vermont, Minne- 
sota and Early Cory are favorites. For later crop, Crosby, 
Hickox, Shoe Peg and Stowell Evergreen are now popular. 

Cosmos. The Cosmos grown in a locality free 

from early fall frosts is certainly a beautiful thing, but 
there are probably few flowers that have caused so much dis- 
appointment to the flower lover in the North. The seed 
germinates very freely. The plants grow with great vigor, 
and if the season permits, an abundance of bloom may be 



COSMOS— CRANBERRY 77 

had in September. An early -flowering strain of dwarf Cos- 
mos has been offered by the trade for several years ; and 
each year there seems to be an improvement in the size and 
colors, so the time may shortly come when this will equal 
the late-flowering varieties, making the culture of Cosmos 
more satisfactory. Cosmos flowers are borne on long 
stems, and the colors are in white and fine shades of red. 
The foliage is also fine. Seed should be sown in gentle 
heat, in the greenhouse, hotbed or window in early April, 
and the young plants transplanted when 2 inches high, 
setting the plants well down in the soil and giving at leas't 
3 inches between the plants, as they are very likely to spin- 
dle up, with weak stems, if crowded. When danger of frost 
is over, set them out in a warm, well sheltered position, 
3 feet apart. After the plants start into growth, pinch 
out the top to induce a bushy growth. If situated where 
the wind can whip them, they should have a stake driven 
close to the stem, and be tied to it for support. Flowers 
of Cosmos are on the order of single Dahlias. 

Cranberry. The growing of Cranberries in ar- 
tificial bogs is an American industry. The common large 
Cranberry of markets is also a peculiarly American fruit, 
since it is unknown in other countries except as the fruit is 
shipped there. Cranberries are grown in bogs, which may 
be flooded. The whole area is kept under water during the 
winter time, largely to prevent the plants from winter in- 
jury by the heaving and freezing and thawing of the bogs. 
Flooding is also employed at intervals for the purpose of 
drowning out insects, mitigating drought, and protecting 
against frost and fires. Every good Cranberry bog should 
have facilities for flooding. The ordinary practice is to choose 
a bog which has a creek running through it, or through 
which some creek or ditch may be diverted. At the lower 
side of the bog flood gates are provided, so that when the 
gates are shut the water backs up and floods the area. It 
is best that the bog be comparatively flat, so that the water 



78 amateur's practical -garden -book 

will be of approximately equal depth over the whole area. 
At the shallowest places the water should stand about a foot 
above the plants. The water is usually let on the bog early 
in December and kept on until April or early May. No flood- 
ing is done during the rest of the year unless there is some 
particular occasion therefor. 

All the wild and turfy growth should be taken off the 
bog before the vines are set. This is done either by digging 
it off and removing it bodily, or by drowning it out by 
means of a year's flooding. The former method is gen- 
erally considered to be the better. After the turfy growth 
is removed, the bog is smoothed and covered 2 or 3 in. 
deep with clean sand. The vines are now set, the lower 
ends of them being shoved through the sand into the richer 
earth. In order to prevent a too rapid and tangled growth 
of vine, it is customary to resand the bog every three or 
four years to a depth of one-fourth or one-half inch. 
When sanding is not practicable, the vines may be mown 
off when they become too luxuriant. 

The plants for setting are merely cuttings or branches of 
the vines. These cuttings may be from 5 to 10 in. long. 
They are inserted into the ground in a hole made by a 
crowbar or stick. They are usually planted at distances of 
12 to 18 in. each way, and the vines are allowed to cover 
the entire ground as with a mat. In three years a good 
crop should be secured, if the weeds and wild growth are 
kept down. A crop ranges between 50 to 100 barrels per 
acre. 

Cress. The Upland Cress, or the true Pepper 
Grass, may be grown on any garden soil. Sow early in the 
spring. It makes a rapid growth and can be cnt from 
four to five weeks. Succession of sowings must be made, 
as it runs quickly to seed. The curled variety is the one 
usually grown, as the leaves may be used for garnishing as 
well as for salads. One packet of seed will be sufficient for 
each sowing. Any good soil will do. Sow thickly in drills 



CRESS— CROTON 79 

12-18 in. apart. In summer it runs to seed quickly, so that 
it is usually grown in spring and fall. 

The Water Cress is more exacting in its culture, and can 
only be successfully grown in moist places, such as edges of 
shallow, slow-running creeks, open drains, or beds excavated 
near such streams. A few plants for private use may be 
grown in a frame, provided a retentive soil is used and at- 
tention given to watering the bed often. Water Cress may 
be propagated from pieces of the stem, used as cuttings. If 
one is fond of Water Cress, it is well to colonize it in some 
clean creek or pool. It will take care of itself year by year. 
Seeds may also be used for propagating it. 

Crocus. A hardy bulb, easily grown and giv- 
ing good satisfaction either in the border or scattered 
through the lawn. They are also forced for winter (see 
Bulbs). They are so cheap and lasting that they may be 
used in quantity. A border of them along the edges of 
walks, little clumps of them in the lawn, or masses in a 
bed, give the first touch of color as the spring opens. They 
may be forced with ease planted in pots or shallow boxes, 
put away in a cool place and brought into the house at any 
time through the winter. A low temperature will bring 
them into bloom in perfection in about four weeks from the 
time they are brought in. They can be had in the window- 
garden in this way. 

A sandy soil suits the Crocus admirably. Plant in the 
fall, in the open, setting them 3 to 4 inches deep. When they 
show signs of failing, take up the bulbs and reset them. 
They tend to rise out of the ground, because the new bulb or 
corm forms on the top of the old one. If best results are 
desired, it is well to renew the bed occasionally by buying 
new bulbs. Crocus beds may be filled later in the season 
with quick-growing annuals. 

Croton. Under this name many varieties and 
so-called species of Codiseum are grown for conservatory 
decoration, and latterly for foliage bedding in the open. 



80 amateur's practical garden -book 

The colors and shapes of the leaves are very various and at- 
tractive. The Crotons make good window-garden subjects, 
although they are very liable to the attack of the mealy bug. 
They are propagated readily by cuttings of half -ripened 
wood any time during winter or spring. The plants should 
be given an abundance of light in order to bring out their 
fine colors ; but it is usually advisable to screen them from 
the direct rays of the sun when they are grown under glass. 
If the red spider or the mealy bug attack them, they may 
be syringed with tobacco water. Plants which are propa- 
gated indoors during the winter may be massed in beds 
out of doors during the summer, where they make very 
striking effects. Give them rich, deep soil, and be sure 
that they are syringed frequently enough on the under 
side of the leaves to keep down the red spider. If the 
plants have been gradually subjected to strong light before 
they are taken out of doors, they will stand the full sun- 
light and will develop their rich colors to perfection. In the 
fall they may be taken up, cut back and used for window- 
garden or conservatory subjects. Crotons are shrubs or 
small trees, and they may be transferred into large pots or 
tubs and grown on into large tree -like specimens. 

Cucumber. For early use, the Cucumber is 
usually started in a hotbed or coldframe by sowing the seed 
on pieces of sod 4 to 6 inches square, turned grass side 
down. Three or four seeds are placed on or pushed into 
each piece of sod and covered with 1 to 2 inches of fine soil. 
The soil should be well watered and the glass or cloth placed 
over the frame. The roots will run through the sod. When 
the plants are large enough to set out, a flat trowel or a 
shingle may be slipped under the sod and the plants moved 
to the hill without check. In place of sod, old quart 
berry boxes are good ; after setting in the hill the roots 
may force their way through the cracks in the baskets. The 
baskets also decay rapidly. Flower pots may be used. 
These plants from the frames may be set out when danger 




CUCUMBER 81 

of frost is over, usually by the 10th of May, and should make 

a very rapid growth, yielding good- sized fruits in two 

months. The hills should be made rich by forking in a 

quantity of well rotted manure, and given a slight elevation 

above the garden — not high enough to allow 

the wind to dry the soil, but slightly raised 

so that water will not stand around the roots. 

One ounce of seed will plant fifty hills. The 

hills may be 4-5 ft. apart each way. cucumbers 

The White Spine is the leading general-purpose variety. 
For very early or pickling sorts, the Chicago, Russian, and 
other picklings are good. 

The striped beetle is an inveterate pest on Cucumbers 
and squashes. Following is the latest advice (Hall and 
Sirrine, New York State Experiment Station) : " Poisons can 
be used with success against these beetles for only a short 
time in the spring, when they begin to feed; and again, in 
the fall, against beetles of the new brood. This fall poi- 
soning will succeed only where there is not an abundance 
of wild fall flowers ; for the beetles will desert any poisoned 
crop for the unpoisoned flowers and will feed upon the 
flowers to a considerable extent, anyhow, if they are to be 
found. Green arsenite, dry, gave best results. It was 
found a waste of the poisons to apply them in Bordeaux 
mixture, as the mixture so repelled the insects that they 
would not eat the spraj'ed vines to secure the poison. 
These poisons, applied in water, are liable to burn or stunt 
the plants. It is necessary, then, if we wish to poison the 
beetles, to use a trap crop to attract the insects and to apply 
the poison to this crop instead of to the plants we design to 
protect. On small areas it may be advisable to shut in the 
small plants of the growing crop by the well known cloth- 
topped boxes ; by the tent-like cloth covers spread over arched 
hoops or wires ; by boxes made from a rectangular piece of 
cloth and two short 6 -inch boards with cleats attached to 
insert in the soil and hold the boards upright; or even 6- 



82 



inch wire plate -covers. Covers, however, are too expensive 
on large areas, and they have the disadvantage of fre- 
quently making the plants weak, so that winds will snap 
them off or twist and ruin them when the covers have to be 
removed. If covers are used alone, their removal leaves 
the unprotected vines not only for feeding places but for 
breeding places for the beetles. 

"Bordeaux mixture, if thoroughly and frequently ap- 
plied, makes as efficient a protection as the covers, is much 
cheaper, and at the same time protects the plants from dis- 
eases. This mixture (1-to-ll formula) should be sprayed 
upon the Cucumbers when they are just well up, again when 
they show the third leaf, and the third time just before the 
plants commence to form runners. The early application 
can probably best be made with a knapsack sprayer, and 
later ones by any good pump sprayer. The three applica- 
tions should not cost over $2 per acre. The Bordeaux mix- 
ture is a much better repellant, according to station tests, 
than kerosene, turpentine, tobacco dust, cow manure, bur- 
dock infusion, slug shot, bug death, or any other known 
compound. Indeed, all materials of this class, supposed to 
drive away the beetles by their distasteful odor, proved fail- 
ures when used alone. Air- slaked lime, dusted over the 
vines, will make them unpalatable to the beetles, but the 
lime is liable to stunt the plants. It may be used, with 
care, by those whose crop is not large enough to warrant 
purchase of a spraying outfit. 

"All of these appliances or applications, covers, Bor- 
deaux mixture or lime, merely protect the young plants 
until they are strong enough to stand the injury from the 
beetles; they do not kill the insects. To do this, trap crops 
are needed. As the squash is the beetle's favorite food 
plant, this vegetable should be planted — in single rows 
along the margins of small patches, in several rows around 
large fields — about four days before the Cucumbers or 
melon seeds are sown. When these trap plants are up and 



CUCUMBER — CURRANT 83 

the beetles appear about them, dust about half the plants 
with green arsenite, reserving the other half for use if rain 
or heavy dew makes the poison soluble and kills the vines 
first treated. The beetles, attracted by their favorite tid- 
bit, will feed upon the squash vines and be poisoned by the 
arsenite. When the Cucumbers or melons are up, unless 
they are protected by covers, spray with Bordeaux, and poi- 
son more of the squash vines. When the beetles commence 
to pair, the squashes may be cultivated up, leaving only a 
few vines for the beetles to feed upon at flowering time, as 
the insects prefer the squash flowers and will not molest the 
others. Beans may be used with some success as a fall 
catch crop, where wild flowers are not too plentiful. They 
should be planted on the Cucumber or melon fields ; and 
when the beetles leave the old vines to feed upon the fresh 
bean plants, they should be treated to liberal doses of poi- 
son as well." 

The mildew on the vines can be prevented by Bordeaux 
mixture spray. 

Currants. The Currant, being one of the 
hardiest and most productive of fruits, is often neglected, 
the patch allowed to become foul with grass, never 
thinned or trimmed, the worms eating the leaves until, in 
the course of time, the plants weaken and die. 
Along the fence is no place to plant Currants, or, 
indeed, any other fruit; plant out in the open, at 
least 5 feet from anything that will interfere with 
cultivation. No fruit crop will respond more read- 
ily to good care than the Currant. Clean cultiva- 
tion and a liberal use of manure or fertilizers 
will certainly be followed by well paying crops. 
One- or two -year- old plants may be set 4 by 6 
feet. Trim the bush by cutting off most of the suckers 
below the surface of the ground. If the season is dry, a 
mulch of straw or leaves will assist the plants to establish 
themselves. 




84 amateur's practical garden -book 

The red and white Currants bear mostly on two-year-old 
or older wood. A succession of young shoots should be 
allowed to grow to take the place of the oki bearing wood. 
Cut out the canes as they grow older. The partial shade 
afforded by a young orchard suits the Currant well, and if 
the ground is in good condition no bad results will follow to 
the orchard, provided the Currants are removed before the 
trees need the entire feeding space. 

A Currant patch should continue in good bearing for 10 
to 20 years, if properly handled. One very important point 
is to keep the old, weak canes cut out, and a succession of 
two to four new ones coming from the root each year. For 
home use, White Imperial and Moore's Ruby are excellent. 
Prince of Wales is a heavy bearer and excellent for cooking. 
Wilder, Victoria, Cherry and White Grape are meritorious 
varieties. 

To combat the Currant worm, spray thoroughly with 
Paris green to kill the first brood, just as soon as holes can 
be seen in the lower leaves — usually before the plants are 
in bloom. For the second brood, if it appear, spray with 
white hellebore. For borers, cut out and burn the affected 
canes. 

Cuttings. Cuttings are parts of plants which 
are inserted in soil or water with the intention that they 
shall grow and make new plants. They are of various kinds. 
They may be classified, with reference to the age of the 
wood or tissue, into two classes ; viz., those made from 
perfectly hard or dormant wood (taken from the winter 
twigs of trees and bushes), and those made from more or 
less immature or growing wood. They may be classified 
again in respect to the part of the plants from which they 
are taken, as root Cuttings, tuber Cuttings (as the ordinary 
"seed" planted for potatoes), stem Cuttings and leaf Cut- 
tings. 

Dormant wood Cuttings are used for grapes, currants, 
gooseberries, willows, poplars and many other kinds of soft- 




CUTTINGS 85 

wooded trees and shrubs. Cuttings are ordinarily taken in 
fall or winter, but cut into the proper lengths and then 
buried in sand or moss where they do not freeze, in order 
that the lower end may heal over or cal- 
lus. In the spring these Cuttings are 

set in the ground, preferably in a rather 'SWfir^CI ![[QI4__-||.S9.I^ 

sandy and well drained place. Usually, welL 
hardwood Cuttings are made with two to .goii' 
four joints or buds, and when they are 
planted, only the upper bud projects 
above the ground. They may be planted 
erect, as the picture shows, or somewhat 

1 ,. X 1 XT J. J.1 /-^ II- The planting: of dormant wood 

slanting. In order that the Cutting may Cuttings 

reach down to moist earth, it is desirable 
that it should not be less than 6 inches long ; and it is 
sometimes better if it is 8 to 12 inches. If the wood is 
short-jointed, there may be several buds on a Cutting of 
this length ; and, in order to prevent too many shoots from 
arising from these buds, the lowermost buds are often cut 
out. Roots will start as readily if the lower buds are re- 
moved, since the buds grow into shoots and not into roots. 
Cuttings of currants, grapes, gooseberries, and the like may 
be set in rows which are far enough apart to admit of easy 
tillage either with horse or hand tools, and the Cut- 
tings may be placed from 3 to 8 inches apart in the 
row. After the Cuttings have grown for one season, 
the plants are usually transplanted and given more 
room for the second year's growth, after which time 
they are ready to be set in permanent plantations. 
In some cases, the plants are set at the end of the 
Root Cutting. ^^'^^ y®^^ j ^^^ two-year plants are stronger and usu- 
whichhas given ally preferable. 

rise to a shoot jj^^^ Cuttiugs are used for blackberries, raspber- 
ries, and a few other things. They are ordinarily made of 
roots from the size of a lead pencil to one's little finger, and 
are cut in lengths from 3 to 5 inches long. The Cuttings 




86 amateur's practical garden -book 

are stored the same as stem Cuttings and allowed to cal- 
lus. In the spring they are planted in a horizontal or 
nearly horizontal position in moist, sandy soil, being en- 
tirely covered to a depth of 1 or 2 inches. 

Softwood or greenwood Cuttings are always rooted under 
cover ; that is, in a greenhouse, coldframe or dwelling 
house. They are usually made of wood which is mature 
enough to break when it is bent sharply. When the wood 
is so soft that it will bend and not break, it is too immature, 
in the majority of plants, for the making of good Cuttings. 
One to two joints is the proper length of a greenwood Cut- 
ting. If of two joints, the lower leaf should be cut off and 
the upper leaves cut in two, so that they do not present 
their entire surface to the air and thereby evaporate the 
plant juices too rapidly. If the Cutting is of only one joint, 
the lower end is usually cut just above a joint. In either 
case, the Cuttings are usually inserted in sand or well 
washed gravel, nearly or quite up to the leaves. Keep the 
bed uniformly moist throughout its depth, but avoid any soil 
which holds so much moisture that it becomes muddy and 
sour. These Cuttings should be shaded until they begin to 
emit tbeir roots. Coleus, geraniums, fuchsias, and nearly 
all the common greenhouse and house plants, are propagated 
by these Cuttings or slips. 

Leaf Cuttings are often used for the fancy-leaved bego- 
nias, gloxinias, and a few other plants. The young plant 
usually arises most readily from the leaf- stalk or petiole. 
The leaf, therefore, is inserted into the ground much as a 
green Cutting is. Begonia leaves, however, will throw out 
young plants from the main veins when these veins or 
ribs are cut. Therefore, well-grown and firm begonia leaves 
are sometimes laid flat on the sand and the main veins cut ; 
then the leaf is weighted down with pebbles or pegs so that 
these cut surfaces come into intimate contact with the soil 
beneath. The begonia leaf may be treated in various other 
ways and still give good results. See Begonia. 




CUTTINGS— CUTWORMS 87 

In the growing of all greenwood Cuttings, it is well to 
remember that they should have a gentle bottom heat ; the 
soil should be such that it will hold moisture and yet not 
remain wet ; the air about the tops should not become close 
and stagnant, else the plants will damp off ; and the tops 
should be shaded for a time. 

An excellent method of starting Cuttings' 
in the living room is to make a double pot, 
as shown in the picture. Inside a 6-inch pot, 
set a 4-inch pot. Fill the bottom, a, with 
gravel or bits of brick, for drainage. Plug the 
hole in the inside pot. Fill the spaces between, 
c, with earth, and in this set the Cuttings. 
Water may be poured into the inner pot, &, to Cuttings inserted in a 
supply the moisture. ^^^^^'^^ p°* 

Cutworms. Probably the remedy for Cut- 
worms most often practiced in gardens, and which cannot 
fail to be effective when faithfully carried out, is hand- 
picking with lanterns at night or digging them out from around 
the base of the infested plants during the day. Bushels of 
Cutworms have been gathered in this way, and with profit. 
When from some cause success does not attend the use of 
the poisoned baits, discussed next, hand-picking is the only 
other method yet recommended which can be relied upon to 
check Cutworm depredations. 

By far the best methods yet devised for killing Cutworms in 
any situation are the poisoned baits ; hand-picking is usually 
unnecessary where they are thoroughly used. Poisoned 
bunches of clover or weeds have been thoroughly tested, 
even by the wagon-load, over large areas, and nearly 
all have reported them very effective ; lamb's quarters 
(pigweed), pepper-grass and mullein are among the weeds 
especially attractive to Cutworms. On small areas the 
making of the baits is done by hand, but they have been 
prepared on a large scale by spraying the plants in the 
field, cutting them with a scythe or machine, and pitching 



88 amateur's practical garden -book 

them from wagons in small bunches wherever desired. 
Distributed a few feet apart between rows of garden plants 
at nightfall, they have attracted and killed enough Cut- 
worms often to save a large proportion of the crop ; if the 
bunches can be covered with a shingle, they will keep 
fresher much longer. The fresher the baits, and the more 
thoroughly the baiting is done, the more Cutworms one can 
destroy. However, it may sometimes happen that a suflS.- 
cient quantity of such green succulent plants cannot be ob- 
tained early enough in the season in some localities. In 
this case, and we are not sure but in all cases, the poisoned 
bran mash can be used to the best advantage. It is easily 
made and applied at any time, is not expensive, and thus 
far the results show that it is a very attractive and effective 
bait. A tablespoonful can be quickly dropped around the 
base of each cabbage or tomato plant, small amounts can be 
easily scattered along the rows of onions, turnips, etc., or 
a little dropped on a hill of corn, cucumbers, etc. It was 
used on sweet potato hills in New Jersey last year, and 
" served as a complete protection, the Cutworms preferring 
^ ..,^ the bran." It is well to apply it on the even- 

ing of the day the plants are set out. 

The best time to apply these poisoned 
baits is two or three days before any plants 
have come up or been set out in the garden. 
If the ground has been properly prepared, the 
worms will have had but little to eat for sev- 
eral days and they- will thus seize the first 
opportunity to appease their hunger upon the 
baits, and wholesale destruction will result. 
M^Vii"'"" " fjij^Q baits should always be applied at this time 

Protection from cutworms j t t-» i -^ • 

wherever Cutworms are expected. But it is 
not too late usually to save most of a crop after the pests 
have made their presence known by cutting off some of the 
plants. Act promptly and use the baits freely. — M. V. 
Sling erland. 




CUTWORMS— DAHLIA 89 

Cutworms may be kept away from plants by making a 
collar of stiff paper or tin about the base, as in the picture ; 
but this is not practicable on a large scale. 

Cyclamen. A tender greenhouse tuberous 

plant, sometimes seen in the window-garden. Cyclamens may 
be grown from seed sown in April or September in soil con- 
taining a large proportion of sand and leaf-mold. If sown 
in September, they should be wintered in a eoolhouse. In 
May they should be potted into larger pots and placed in a 
shaded frame, and by July will have become large enough 
for their flowering pot, which should be either a 5- or 
6 -inch one. They should be brought into the house before 
danger of frost, and grown cool until through flowering. A 
temperature of 55° suits them while in flower. After 
flowering, they will need a rest for a short time, but should 
not become very dry, or the bulb will be injured. When 
they start into growth, they should have the old soil shaken 
off and be potted into smaller pots. At no time should more 
than half the tuber be under the soil. 

Tubers large enough to flower the first year may be ob- 
tained from the seedsmen at moderate prices; and unless 
one has facilities for growing the seedlings for a year, pur- 
chase of the tubers will give the best satisfaction. The soil 
best suited to the Cyclamen is one containing two parts 
leaf -mold, 1 part each of sand and loam. 

Daffodils are a kind of Narcissus. They are 
hardy, and require the treatment rocommended for Crocus. 
They may be naturalized in the grass, but they usually do 
not persist long on account of our hot, dry summers. Daf- 
fodils have been much improved of late. Plant in the fall, 
4-6 in. deep. Excellent old garden plants. 

Dahlia. The Dahlia is an old favorite which, 
on account of its formal flowers, has been in disfavor for a 
few years, although it has always held a place in the rural 
districts. Now, however, with the advent of the cactus and 




90 



semi-cactus types (or loose -flowered forms), and the im- 
provement of the singles, it again has taken a front rank 
among late summer flowers, coming in just in advance of 
the Chrysanthemum. 

The single varieties may be grown from seed, but the 
double sorts should be grown from cuttings of young 
stems or from division of the roots. If cuttings are 
to be made, it will be necessary to start the roots early 
either in a hotbed or house. When the growth has 
reached 4 or 5 inches, they may be cut from the plant 
and rooted in sand. Care should be taken to cut just 
below the joint, as a cutting made between two joints 
will not form tubers. The most rapid method of pro- 
'''"'^ pagation of named varieties is to grow from cuttings 
in this way. In growing the plants from roots, the best 
plan is to place the whole root in gentle heat, covering 
slightly. When the young growth has started, the roots 
may be taken up, divided, and planted out 3 to 4 feet apart. 
This plan will ensure a plant from each piece of root, 
whereas if the roots are divided while dormant, there is 
danger of not having a bud at the end of each 
piece, in which case no growth will start. 

The Dahlia flourishes best in a deep, rich, 
moist soil, although very good results can be had 
on sandy soil, provided plant-food and moisture 
are furnished. Clay should be avoided. If the 
plants are to be grown without stakes, the center 
of each plant should be pinched out after making 
two or three joints. By doing this the lateral ^ahha 
branches will start near the ground and be stiff enough to 
withstand the winds. In most home gardens the plants are 
allowed to reach their full height, and are tied to stakes if 
necessary. Dahlias are very susceptible to frost. The tall 
kinds reach a height of 5-8 feet. 

After the first frost, lift the roots, let them dry in the 
sun, shake off the dirt, trim off tops and broken parts, and 




DAHLIA— DANDELION 91 

store them in a cellar as you would potatoes. Cannas may 
be stored in the same place. 

Daisy. The perennial English Daisy, or Bellis 
peremiis, is a prime favorite as an edging plant. The cheer- 
ful little flowers show early in the spring, and with a little 
care bloom continuously through a long season. They 
should be given well enriched, moist soil, and be mulched 
through hot weather. The usual method of propagation is 
by division of the crowns, made in cool weather. They may 
also be grown from seed, but the chances are that many in- 
ferior flowers will be produced. Set the plants 3 or 4 inches 
apart. Height 3 to 5 inches. The colors are white, pink and 
red. Hardy if mulched in winter, but best results are ob- 
tained if plants are renewed frequently. 

Many other plants are called Daisy, particularly the wild 
Asters, the Ox-eye Daisy or Whiteweed, and the Paris Daisy 
{Chrysanthemum frutescens) . 

Damping Off is the rotting off of cuttings or 
young plants near the surface of the soil. It is the work of 
fungi; but these fungi are injurious because they find con- 
ditions congenial to their rapid growth. Prevention is 
worth more than cure. See that the soil is wet clear 
through, not wet on top and dry beneath. Keep it as dry as 
possible on the surface. Avoid sogg}^ soils. On peaty soils, 
sprinkle sand or coal ashes to keep the top dry. Give the 
plants free circulation of air. Give them abundance of 
room. If Damping Off threatens, transplant. 

Dandelion. This common weed would hardly 

be recognized if seen under cultivation in the vegetable 
garden. The plants attain a large size and the leaves are 
much more tender. The seed may be selected from the 
best field -growing plants, but it is better to buy the French 
seed of the seedsmen. 

Sow in spring in well manured soil, either in drills or in 
hills 1 foot apart. A cutting of leaves may be had in Sep- 



92 amateur's practical garden -book 

tember or October, and some of the stools may stand until 
spring. The delicacy of the leaves may be improved by 
blanching them, either by the use of boards or earth. One 
trade packet of seed will supply a large number of plants. 
The whole plant is destroyed when the crop of leaves is taken. 

Datura. Brugmansia. Large -growing an- 
nuals with large, trumpet -shaped flowers. The coloring of 
some of the flowers is very attractive, but the odor of the 
plant is unpleasant. Plants should be set 4 feet apart. 
They grow 3-4 feet high, bear large leaves, and therefore 
make good low screens. Frost kills them. Sow seed where 
plants are to grow ; or, better, start them in the house three 
or four weeks before the weather is fit for planting out- 
side. Some of the Daturas are weeds. The great spiny 
seed pods are interesting. 

Delphinium. See Larkspur. 

Dewberry. The Dewberry may be called an 

early trailing blackberry. The culture of this, as of the 
blackberry, is very simple; but, unlike the latter, some 
support should be given to the canes, as they are very 
slender and rank growers. A wire trellis or 
large-meshed fence-wire answers admirably ; 
or (and this is the better general method) they 
maybe tied to stakes. The fruits are large and 
showy, which, combined with their earliness, 
makes them desirable; but they are usually 
deficient in flavor. The Lucretia is the leading 
variety in cultivation. 

Lucretia Dewberry -r ,^ . i t • • i. ^ 

Lay the canes on the ground m wmter. in 
the spring tie all the canes from each plant to a stake. 
After fruiting, cut the old canes and burn them (as for 
blackberries). In the meantime, the young canes (for next 
year's fruiting) are growing. These may be tied up as they 
grow, to be out of the way of the cultivator. Dewberries 
are one to two weeks earlier than blackberries. 




DIANTHUS— DIBBERS 93 

Dianthus, or Pink. Under this head are in- 
cluded Chinese Pinks, Sweet William, Pieotee, Carnation 
(which see), and the perennial or Grass Pinks. All of 
them are general favorites. 

The Chinese Pinks (Dianthus Chinensls, or Heddewirjii) are 
now very popular. They are biennials, but flower the first 
year from seed, and are treated as hardy annuals. They have 
a wide range of color and markings. Some of them are as 
double as a rose, and are edged, splashed or lined with other 
colors. The single ones are very brilliant and are profuse 
bloomers. Sow seeds where plants are to stand, or if early 
bloom is desired, start in the house. Set the plants 6-10 
in. apart. They grow 8-15 in. high. They bloom until after 
frost. Of easiest culture in any good soil, and should be 
even more popular. The petals are often quite deeply and 
oddly cut. 

The Sweet William is an old-fashioned perennial, having 
flowers of many combinations of color, growing for several 
years when once planted, but being the better for renewal 
every two years. Raising new stock from seeds is usually 
better than dividing old plants. Of late years, the Sweet 
William has been much improved. 

The perennial garden or Grass Pinks are low- growing, 
with highly perfumed flowers. They are very useful for 
permanent edgings, although the grass is likely to run them 
out unless a clean strip is kept on either side. Divide the 
old plants when the edging begins to fail; or 
raise new plants from seed. Seedlings usually 
do not bloom much the first year. Usually per- 
fectly hardy. 

Dibbers are hand tools used for mak- 
ing holes in which to set plants or to drop 
seeds. They are better than a hoe or a spade Dibbers 

for most transplanting. For small plants, as cabbages and 
tomatoes, a cylindrical Dibber is generally used. (See the 
lower one in the cut.) It can be made from an old spade 




94 amateur's practical garden -book 

handle or any hardwood stick. When broad holes are 
wanted, the triangular iron Dibber (sold by dealers) is ex- 
cellent. It is particularly useful in hard soils. 

Dicentra includes the Bleeding Heart ; also 

the native little Dutchman's Breeches and Squirrel Corn, 
and a few other species. All are hardy perennials of 
the easiest culture, blooming in spring. In common with 
all perennial herbs, they are benefited by a winter mulch of 
leaves or litter. Propagated by dividing the clumps. 

Dictamnus. Fraxinella or Gas Plant. An 

old border plant (perennial herb) with white or pale red 
flowers. The leaves of the plant emit a strong odor when 
rubbed, likened to that of the lemon verbena. It has been 
advertised as the Gas Plant from the fact that the plant 
exudes an oily matter that may be ignited, especially in 
warm, dry weather. Propagated by seeds, which should be 
sown as soon as ripe. The plant blooms the third year, 
and improves with age. Set plants 3 feet apart. Height 2 
to 3 feet. 

Dill. An annual aromatic herb that will seed 

itself if seeds are left to ripen, and an abundance of plants 
may always be had. The culture is of the easi.est. The 
seeds are often used to flavor pickles. 

Diseases. Diseases of plants may be caused 

by some physiological disturbance to the plant system, or by 
the incursions of some parasitic organism, as insects or fungi. 
The work of insects, however, is ordinarily not classed with 
plant Diseases (see Insects). Of Diseases which are caused 
by plant parasites or by physiological disturbances, there 
are two general groups : 

(1) Parasitic fungous Diseases, such as the apple -scab, 
black-rot and mildew of the grape, leaf-blight of the plum 
and pear, black-knot, and the like. These Diseases are 
characterized by definite spots, discolorations or excres- 
cences, which are more or less scattered over the surface of 



DISEASES 95 

the leaf, fruit or branch. As a rule, the leaves and fruits 
which are attacked have a tendency to drop from the tree. 
The general treatment for these Diseases is to spray with 
some fungicidal mixture, like the Bordeaux mixture or the 
ammoniacal carbonate of copper. The treatment is useful 
in proportion as it is applied early and thoroughly. After 
the fungus once gets into the tissues of the host-plant, it is 
diflBcult, if not impossible, to kill it. If, however, the fungi- 
cide is upon the plant before the fungus is, the parasite 
may not be able to obtain a foothold. Even after it does 
obtain a foothold, it is probable, however, that the spray 
will check its spread by preventing the development of its 
external parts. 

(2) The physiological and bacterial Diseases, or those 
which are termed constitutional troubles. In these cases 
there are rarely any definite spots, as in the attacks of 
parasitic fungi, but the entire leaf, or even the entire plant, 
or a large part of it, shows a general weakening and Dis- 
ease, as if there were some cutting off of the accustomed 
source of nourishment. Such Diseases are very likely to be 
seen in a general yellowing and death of the leaf, in the 
dying of the leaf along the main veins and around the 
edges, showing that the difl&culty is one which affects the 
entire leaf, and not any particular part of it. In general, 
there is a tendency for the foliage in plants so attacked to 
wither up and hang on the tree for a time. The peach - 
yellows and pear blight are Diseases of this kind. There 
are no specific treatments for troubles of this sort. They 
must be approached by what physicians call prophylaxis — 
that is, by methods of sanitation and prevention. The dis- 
eased plants or parts are cut away and burned. All those 
conditions which seem to favor the development of the Dis- 
ease are removed. Varieties which are particularly sus- 
ceptible are discarded. Careful management in matters of 
this sort is often much more important than any attempt at 
specific treatment. 



96 amateur's practical garden -book 

Dolichos. Mentioned under Hyacinth Bean. 

Dracaenas of the conservatories (properly 
mostly CoRDYLiNEs) are sometimes used as house plants. 
Protect from direct sunlight, keep an even and fairly high 
temperature, water freely when they are growing. When 
the plants begin to fail, return them to the florist for recu- 
peration, where they may have equable conditions. They 
are handsome long-leaved foliage plants, excellent for 
jardinieres. 

Drainage serves two purposes: first, to carry 
superfluous water from the land ; second, to lower the water- 
table or hard-pan, and to make the soil loose and friable 
above. Nearly all hard clay lands are much benefited by 
draining, even though they are not too wet. The region of 
free or standing water is lowered and air is admitted into 
the soil, rendering it fine and mellow. For carrying off 
mere surface water, surface or open ditches are sufficient ; 
but if the soil is to be ameliorated, the drain must be be- 
neath the surface. The best underdrains are those which 
use hollow or cylindrical tiles, but very good results may be 
had by making drains from stones. In regions where there 
are many flat stones, a very good conduit may be laid with 
them, but they are likely to get out of order. If there is 
considerable fall to the ditch, the bottom may be filled for 
the space of 10 inches or a foot with common stones rolled 
in, and the water will find its way between them. If the 
stones are even deeper than this, the results will be better; 
and such ditches also provide place for disposing of super- 
fluous stones. 

The deeper the ditch the further it will draw on either 
side. It should always be deep enough to be protected from 
freezing, particularly if tiles are used. Three feet should 
be the least depth, and ^% feet is a good average depth. 
Drains as deep as this need not be placed oftener than 2 to 3 
rods apart, unless, in garden conditions, it is desired to 



DRAINAGE— ECHEVERIA 97 

very thoroughly ameliorate a heavy clay soil, in which ease 
they may be placed every 20 feet. The better the fall 
the quicker the drain will act and the more permanent it will 
be, as it will tend to clean itself and not fill up with silt. 
It is important that the outlet be entirely free, and it should 
be protected with stones or mason work. The roots of some 
trees, particularly of willows and elms, are attracted by tile 
drains, and often fill up the pipes. When the drain goes 
near such trees, therefore, it is well to cement the joints. 
In general practice, however, the joints should not be 
cemented, because a large part of the drainage water enters 
at those places. In laying the tiles, it is well to cover the 
joints with inverted sod, tarred paper, wisps of straw, 
stones or other material. This prevents the fresh earth 
from falling in between the joints, and by the time the ma- 
terial is decayed the earth will have become so thoroughly 
set that no further trouble will result. Although under- 
drains take off superfluous water, nevertheless an under- 
drained soil will hold more moisture than one which is not 
drained, particularly in the ease of clay lands with high 
subsoils. This is because fine, mellow soils are ablo to hold 
more moisture than very loose and open or very dense and 
compact ones. A well constructed underdrain should last 
indefinitely. 

Dutchman's Pipe. See Aristolochia. 

Echeveria. Tender succulents largely used for 

carpet bedding and rock gardens. Echeveria secunda is some- 
times called Old-Hen-and-Chickens, from the little plants 
that grow out from the stem of the parent plant and show 
around the edges of the rosette top; but the hardy Hen- 
and-Chickens of old gardens is a different but closely allied 
plant {Sempervivum tectorum) . All the species are of easy 
culture and thrive on sandy soil. They should not be 
planted out until all danger of frost is over and the ground 
thoroughly warm. Propagated by the offsets. Height 3 



98 amateur's practical garden -book 

inches. The name Echeveria is now given up by bota- 
nists for CoUjledon. 

Egg-plant. Guinea Squash. Unless one has 
a greenhouse or a very warm hotbed, the growing of Egg- 
plants in the North shoukl be left to the professional gar- 
dener, as the young plants are very tender, and should be 
grown without a check. The seed should be sown in the 
hotbed or greenhouse about April 10, keeping a temperature 
of from 65° to 70°. When the seedlings have made three 
rough leaves, they may be pricked out into shallow boxes, 
or, still better, into 3-inch pots. The pots or boxes should 
be plunged to the rim in soil in a hotbed or coldframe so 
situated that protection may be given on chilly nights. The 
10th of June is early enough to plant them out in central 
New York. The soil in which they are to grow cannot well 
be made too rich, as they have only a short season in which 
to develop their fruits. The plants are usually set 3 feet 
apart each way. A dozen plants are sufficient 
for the needs of a large family, as each plant 
should yield from two to six large fruits. The 
fruits are fit to eat at all stages of growth, from 
those the size of a large egg to their largest 
development. One ounce of seed will furnish 
600 to 800 plants. 

The New York Improved Purple is the stan- 
New York Purple Egg-plant ^^^^ variety. Black Pckiu is good. For early, 
or for a short-season climate, the Early Dwarf Purple is 
excellent. 

Endive. As a fall salad vegetable, this shonld 

be better known, it being far superior to lettuce at that 
time and as easily grown. For fall use, the seed may be 
sown from June to August, and as the plants become fit to 
eat about the same time from sowing as lettuce does, a suc- 
cession may be had until cold weather. The plants will 
need protection from the severe fall frosts, and this may be 
given by carefully lifting the plants and transplanting to a 




ENDIVE— EVERGREENS 99 

frame, where sasli or cloth may be used to cover them in 
freezing weather. The leaves, which constitute practically 
the whole plant, are blanched before being used, either by 
tying together with some soft material or by standing boards 
on each side of the row, allowing the top of the boards to 
meet over the center of the row. The rows should be 1% 
or 2 feet apart, the plants 1 foot apart in the rows. One 
ounce of seed will sow 150 feet of drill. 

Eschscholtzia. See California Poppy. 

Eutoca. Hard}' early -flowering annuals hav- 
ing pink or blue flowers, good for masses. Sow seed early 
where wanted. Height 1 foot. Eutocas are properly classed 
with Phacelias. 

Evergreens. Evergreens are plants which hold 
their foliage in winter. Ordinarily, however, in this country 
the word Evergreen is understood to mean coniferous 
trees with persistent leaves, as pines, spruces, firs, cedars, 
junipers, arborvita?, retinosporas, and the like. These trees 
have always been favorites with plant lovers, as they have 
very distinctive forms and other characteristics. Many of 
them are of the easiest culture. It is a common notion that, 
since spruces and other conifers grow so symmetrically, 
they will not stand pruning ; but this is an error. They 
may be pruned with as good effect as other trees, and if 
they tend to grow too tall the leader may be cut out with- 
out fear. A new leader will arise, but in the meantime the 
upward growth of the tree will be somewhat checked, and 
the effect will be to make the tree dense. The tips of 
the branches may also be headed in with the same effect. The 
beauty of an Evergreen lies in its natural form ; therefore, 
it should not be sheared into unusual shapes, but a gentle 
trimming back, as suggested, will tend to prevent the Nor- 
way spruce and others from growing open and ragged. 
After the tree attains some age, 4 or 5 inches may be taken 
off the ends of the main branches every year or two with 



j^^. 



100 amateur's practical garden -book 

good results. This slight trimming is ordinarily done with 
Waters' long-handled pruning shears. 

There is much difference of opinion as to the proper time 
for the transplanting of Evergreens, which means that there 
is more than one season in which they may be moved. It 
is ordinarily unsafe to transplant them in the fall in north- 
ern climates or bleak situations, since the evaporation from 
the foliage during the winter is likely to injure the plant. 
The best results are usually secured when they are trans- 
planted just as new growth is beginning, rather late in the 
spring. Some people also plant them in August, and the 
roots secure a hold of the soil before winter. In transplant- 
ing conifers, it is very important that the roots be not ex- 
posed to the sun. They should be moistened and covered 
with burlaps or other material. The holes should be ready 
to receive them. If the trees are large, or if it has been 
necessary to trim in the roots, the top should be cut when 
the tree is set. Large Evergreens (those 10 feet and more 
high) are usually best transplanted late in winter, at a time 
when a large ball of earth may be moved with them, A 
trench is dug around the tree, it being deepened a little day 
by day so that the frost can work into the earth and hold it 
in shape. When the ball is thoroughly frozen, it is hoisted 
onto a stone-boat and moved to its new position. 

For low hedges or screens, one of the most serviceable 
Evergreens is the arborvitae in its various forms. Red ce- 
dars are also useful. Perhaps the handsomest of all of them 
for such purposes is the ordinary hemlock spruce ; but it is 
usually difficult to move. Transplanted trees from nurseries 
are usually safest. If the trees are taken from the wild, 
they should be selected from open and sunny places. For 
neat and compact effects near porches and along walks, the 
dwarf retinosporas are very useful. Most of the pines and 
spruces are too coarse for planting very close to the house. 
They are better at some distance removed, where they serve 
as a background to other planting. If they are wanted toi 



EVERGREENS— FERNS 101 

individual specimens, they should be given plenty of room, 
so that the limbs will not be crowded and the tree become 
misshapen. Whatever else is done to the spruces and firs, 
the lower limbs should not be trimmed up, at least not until 
the tree has become so old that the lowest branches die. 
Some species hold their branches much longer than others. 
The oriental spruce {Picea orientalis) is one of the best in 
this respect. The occasional slight heading-in, which we 
have mentioned, will tend to preserve the lower limbs, and 
it will not be marked enough to alter the form of the tree. 

Everlastings are flowers which retain their 
shape and usually their color when they are dried. Most of 
them are members of the composite family. In order to 
have them hold shape and color, cut them with very long 
stems just before they are fully expanded, and hang them in 
an airy place away from the sun. They are all annuals, or 
grown as such, and are of very easy culture. Sow seeds 
where the plants are to stand. Good kinds are Ammobi- 
iim, Gomphrena or Bachelor's Buttons, Rhodanthe, He- 
lichrysum, Xeranthemum, and Acroclinium. Certain wild 
composites may be similarly used, particularly Anaphalis 
and species of Gnaphalium. Some of the grasses make 
excellent additions to dry bouquets (see Grass). With these 
dry bouquets, various seed pods look well. 

Fenzlia. Little hardy annuals, having a pro- 
fusion of bloom through the entire summer. The flowers are 
a delicate pink, with yellow throat surrounded by dark 
spots. A charming edging plant or window box subject. 
Sow the seed in boxes or where plants are wanted, and thin 
to the distance of 10 inches. Height 3 to 4 inches. Now 
classed with Gilia. 

Ferns. Probably the one Fern grown most 
extensively as a house plant is the small-leaved Maidenhair 
Fern (or Adiantum gracillimum) . This and other species are 
a'mong the finest of house plants, when sufficient moisture 




102 amateur's practical garden -book 

can be given. They make fine specimens, as well as serv- 
ing the purpose of greenery for eut-flowers. Other species 
often grown for house plants are A. cuneatum and A. 
CapiUus- Veneris. All these do well in a mixture of fibrous 
sod, loam, and sand, with ample drainage material. They 
may be divided if an increase is wanted. 

Other Ferns for house culture include 
Nephrolepis exaltata. This is no doubt the 
most easily grown of the list, flourishing in 
a sitting-room. The new variety of N. exal- 
tata, called the Boston Fern (see figure), 
is a decided addition to this family, having a 
J^'4-^v4^^S^^\ "!• drooping habit, covering the pot and making 
a fine stand or bracket plant. 
^""*"' Several species of Pteris, particularly P. 

Boston Fern , , , i -n -. / 

serrulata, are valuable house Ferns, but re- 
quire a warmer situation than those mentioned above. They 
will also thrive better in a shady or ill-lighted corner. 

Perfect drainage and care in watering have more to do 
with the successful growing of Ferns than any special mix- 
ture of soils. If the drainage material in the bottom of the 
pot or box is sufficient, there is little danger of over- 
watering; but water-logged soil is always to be avoided. 
Do not use clay soils. Ferns need protection from the di- 
rect sunshine, and also a moist atmosphere. They thrive 
well in a close glass box, or window-garden, if the conditions 
can be kept equable. 

The native Ferns transplant easily to the garden, and 
they make an attractive addition to the side of a house, or 
as an admixture in a hardy border. The Ostrich and Cin- 
namon Ferns are the best subjects. Give all outdoor Ferns 
a place which is protected from winds, otherwise they will 
shrivel and perhaps die. Screen them from the hot sun, 
or give them the shady side of the building. See. that the 
soil is uniformly moist, and that it does not get too hot. 
Mulch with leaf-mold in the fall. 



FERTILIZERS 103 

Fertilizers. Soil is productive when it has 

good physical texture, plant- food, and a sufficient supply of 
moisture. Even though it has an abundance of plant -food, 
if its texture is not good, it will not raise a good crop. 
Soil has good texture when it is open, mellow, friable, 
rather than loose and leaehy, or hard and cloddy. Commer- 
cial Fertilizers add plant-food, but usually they have only a 
small influence in correcting faulty texture. Therefore, 
before concentrated Fertilizers are applied to land, it should 
be gotten into good physical condition by judicious tillage 
and by the incorporation of vegetable mold or humus. The 
leading source of humus in most gardens is stable manure. 
See Manure. 

The plant-food in commercial Fertilizers is largely in a 
soluble or quickly available condition. Therefore, a little 
Fertilizer applied late in the fall or early in the spring will 
tend to start the plants off quickly in the spring and to 
cause them to become established before the trying weather 
of summer. For garden purposes, it is usually advisable to 
buy one of the so-called complete Fertilizers; that is, one 
which contains nitrogen, potash and phosphoric acid. If a 
luxuriant growth of stalk an4 foliage is wanted rather than 
flowers or fruit, an application of nitrogen alone is usually 
advisable. The most readily available nitrogen in commer- 
cial form is that which is afforded by nitrate of soda and 
sulfate of ammonia. In garden practice this may be ap- 
plied at the rate of 300 to 400 pounds an acre, although this 
quantity is more than is profitable to use in most general 
field or agricultural conditions. If it is desired to have 
stout, stocky plants, with early and profuse bloom, it is 
ordinarily advisable to use somewhat sparingly of nitrogen 
and to use a little more heavily of potash and phosphoric 
acid. This is especially true of the leguminous plants, 
which have the power of appropriating atmospheric nitro- 
gen, and among such plants are sweet peas. Heavy ferti- 
lizing of sweet pea land with strong stable manure tends to 



104 amateur's practical garden -book 

make the vines grow too tall and to bear comparatively fevsr 
flowers. For dressing of lawns, a Fertilizer which is com- 
paratively rich in nitrogen is usually to be advised. 

An important value of commercial Fertilizers is to use 
them to start off the plants quickly in the spring. The food 
is available and acts at once. When used for this purpose, 
the Fertilizer may be applied in the hill; but when it is de- 
sired for the enriching of the land and for the support of the 
crop throughout the season, it should be applied to the en- 
tire surface. Always avoid putting the Fertilizer on the 
crown of the plant, or directly in contact with it. It is 
usually better to work the Fertilizer in lightly. For most 
garden operations, it is better to apply in spring. 

Feverfew. See Pyrefhrum. 

Fig. The Fig is little grown in the East 
except as a curiosity, but on the Pacific coast it has 
gained more or less prominence as an orchard fruit. The 
trees are usually planted at distances of about 18 to 25 feet 
apart. Figs will stand considerable frost, and seedling or 
inferior varieties grow out of doors without protection as 
far north as Virginia. Many o^f the varieties fruit on young 
sprouts, and, inasmuch as the roots will stand considerable 
cold, these varieties will often give a few Figs in the north- 
ern states. Figs have been fruited in the open ground in 
Michigan. In all frosty countries, however, the Fig should 
be laid down during the winter time. The following notes 
from Professor Massey, of North Carolina, indicate how this 
may be done : 

"The light hoar-frosts that have occurred here affected 
vegetation only on low grounds, and today (November 5) 
our gardens on high ground show no signs of frost. Lima 
beans and tomato vines are as green as in summer time, 
and this morning we gathered ripe Figs from our trees in 
the garden — the latest I have ever known Figs to ripen. 
As the early crop of Figs ripens in July (if it escapes the 





FIGS— FLOWER BEDS 105 

winter frosts, for the fruit is now set on the trees), and the 
late crop begins in August and continues to ripen in suc- 
cession till frost, it is easy to see what a desirable fruit the 
Fig is. In this section it is easy to have a great abundance 
of Figs, and it is possible almost anywhere in the 
United States to have both early and late crops 
in abundance by taking a little trouble to protect 
the trees in winter. Years ago the writer grew 
Figs in abundance in a very cold locality in 
northern Maryland, and never failed 
to get a good crop. Where the winter Branches of Fig tree 
temperature seldom drops lower than pegged down 
18° or 20° above zero. Figs will need no special 
protection if sheltered from cold winds. In 
colder climates they should be branched from the 
ground, and, after the leaves have fallen, be bent 
Fig branches covered ^q ^]^q grouud in four bundlcs and covered with 
earth, making a sharp mound over the center and 
sloping off like a four- pointed star or cross, as shown in 
the cuts, taken from Bulletin 74 of North Carolina Ex- 
periment Station." 

Flower Beds. Two classes of subjects are to 

be considered in the discussion of Flower Beds : those con- 
cerned with the location of the bed ; those concerned with 
the actual making of the bed itself. Most persons do not 
consider the former subject. If one wants a flower garden in 
which there is to be a collection of plants grown for the 
plants' sake, the garden should be placed at the rear or one 
side, and may be laid out in regular fashion like a vegetable 
garden. If the flowers are to be a part of the home picture, 
— that is, a part of the place itself, — then they may be 
freely distributed amongst the border planting, or as edgings 
along groups of shrubbery. It is rarely, if ever, allowable 
to place formal beds in the lawn in home grounds. The 
place for carpet-bedding is usually in parks or other public 
areas, in sections which are set aside and devoted to that 



106 amateur's practical garden -book 

particular purpose, the same as another section may be de- 
voted to a zoological garden, play-gfound or to other spe- 
cific use. Flowers which are grown in the middle of the 
lawn have little relation to other planting, and they have no 
background to show them off to good advantage. It is also 
difficult to grow them in small beds in the grass, since they 
are exposed to sun and wind, and the grass roots absorb the 
food and moisture. In the formal bed, every effort must be 
made to keep it prim, otherwise it becomes displeasing ; 
whereas, if the flowers are planted more or less promiscu- 
ously in large, irregular borders, or along the edge of shrub- 
bery, the failure of one or even of a dozen plants is not a 
serious matter. The growing of plants in formal designs 
requires so much care and attention that a large part of the 
fun of plant-growing is lost. Such plant-growing should 
ordinarily be left to those who make a business of it. 

In making a Flower Bed, see that the ground is well 
drained ; that the subsoil is deep ; that the land is in a 
mellow and friable condition, and that it is rich. Each fall 
it may have a mulch of rotted manure or of leaf-mold, which 
may be spaded under deeply in the spring ; or the land may 
be spaded and left rough in the fall, which is a good prac- 
tice when the soil has much clay. Make the Flower Beds as 
broad as possible, so that the roots of the grass running in 
from either side will not meet beneath the flowers and rob 
them of food and moisture. It is well to add a little com- 
mercial fertilizer each fall or spring. 

Flowering Maple. See Alutilon. 

Forget-me-not. This old favorite grows so 
easily, looks so cheerful, and with a little care will bloom 
so long, that it should have a place in every collection of 
flowering plants. It is perennial, but the best results may 
be had by dividing the roots as often as every other year; or 
seedlings may be taken up from around the old plants. 
They require a moist soil, with shade a part of the day. 
They will thrive exceedingly if grown in a frame like 



FORGET-ME-NOT— FREESIA 107 

pansies. Easily grown from seeds, usually blooming the 
first fall. Excellent for low edgings. Height 6 inches. 

Four-o'clock. Mirabilis. Tender annual, a 
plant of old-fashioned gardens, and always interesting. 
Grows 2 to 3 feet high. Drop seeds where the plants are to 
stand, thinning them to 12 to 18 inches apart. The colors 
are white and pink. There are variegated-leaved forms; 
also dwarfs. Excellent for the back row in a bed of 
annuals. 

Foxglove, or Digitalis. Foxgloves make most 
effective border plants, either as a background or planted 
among other things. The tall flower-spikes are ^ 
covered during the blooming period with funnel- ^^ 
shaped drooping flowers in various colors and with 
fine markings. Some of the newer varieties have 
flowers that rival the Gloxinias in shadings and mark- 
ings. The plants are perfectly hardy, growing in one 
situation for a number of years ; but, as with many 
other perennials, they are all the better for being 
divided at intervals. They maybe grown readily from 
seed. Sow in boxes under glass or in the border 
where wanted. They bloom the second year. A rich, 
deep soil and partial shade suit their requirements. Foxgioi 
Period of bloom, July and August, Height 2 to 4 feet. 

Frame. See Hotbed and Coldframe. 

Freesia. One of the best and most easily handled 

winter-flowering bulbs. The white or yellowish bell-shaped 
flowers are produced on slender stalks just above the foliage, 
to the number of six to eight in a cluster. They are very 
fragrant, and last for a considerable time when picked. 
The bulbs are small, and look as though they could not 
produce a growth of foliage and flowers, but even the 
smallest mature bulb will prove satisfactory. Several 
bulbs should be planted together in a pot, box or pan, in 
October, if wanted for the holidays, or later if wanted at 



108 amateur's practical garden -book 

Easter. The plants bloom from ten to twelve weeks from 
planting, under ordinary care. No special treatment is re- 
quired ; keep the plants cool and moist through the growing 
season. The soil should contain a little sand mixed with 
fibrous loam, and the pot should be well drained. After 
-flowering, gradually withhold water and the tops will die 
down, after which the roots may be shaken out and rested 
until time to plant in fall. Care should be taken to keep them 
perfectly dry. The bulbs increase rapidly from offsets. 
Plants may also be grown from seed, which should be sown 
as soon as ripe, giving blooming plants the second or third 
year. Height 12 or 15 inches. Easy to bloom in the win- 
dow. The white form {Freesia refmcta alha) is the best. 
See Bulbs. 

Fritillaria, or Fritillary. Bulbous plants, 
the commoner species hardy. Only the Crown Imperial is 
well known in this country. This is an old-fashioned plant, 
which takes care of itself when once planted. The other 
hardy Fritillarias are treated like tulips. 

Frost. The light frosts of late spring and of 
early fall may be prevented by any means which will keep 
the air in motion, or which will fill the air with moisture or 
cloud-like vapor, so that there is less radiation from the 
ground. When frost is expected, it is well to water the 
plants and the ground thoroughly. This will ordinarily pro- 
tect them from two or three degrees of still frost. The water 
should be applied just at nightfall. On larger areas, it is 
often practicable to make a smudge. In order to be 
effective, the smudge must be rather dense and lie over 
the whole area, and it should be kept up until the danger 
from frost is past. Material which burns very slowly and 
with much smoke is preferable. Moist manure or straw or 
other litter is useful. Materials which are dry enough to 
blaze are of little use. Ordinarily, frost comes towards 
morning. It is well to have the piles of rubbish ready at 
nightfall and have them lighted toward the latter part of 



FROST— FUNGI 109 

the night, when the frost is expected. The smudge should 
be kept up until sunrise. It is well to have these piles of 
smudge material on all sides of the area ; or if the area is on 
a slope, it may be sufficient to have them on the upper 
side, for there is usually a movement of air down the hill- 
side and the area will thereby be covered with the smudge. 
For a thorough protection, it is best to have many small 
piles rather than a few large ones. If the piles are placed 
every ten feet around the areas, better results are to be ex- 
pected. There are especially prepared tar-like materials 
for use in smudging plantations, but they are little used in 
this country, although some of them are excellent. 

Fuchsia. Well-known window or greenhouse 
shrub. It is readily grown from cuttings. Soft, green wood 
should be used for cuttings, and it will root in about three 
weeks, when the cuttings should be potted. Take care not 
to have them pot-bound while in growth, but do not 
over-pot when bloom is wanted. Given warmth and good 
soil, they will make fine plants in 
three months or less. In well pro- 
tected, partially shady places they 
may be planted out, growing into 
miniature bushes by fall. Plants may 
be kept on from year to year; and 
if the branches are well cut back after 
blooming, abundant new bloom will 
come. But it is usually best to make 
new plants each year from cuttings, Fuchsia 

since young plants usually bloom most profusely and de- 
mand less care. Fuchsias are amongst the best of window 
subjects. 

Fumigation is mentioned under Insects. 
Fungi. Flowerless, leafless plants, living mostly 

on food (either living or dead) which has been prepared by 
other plants or by animals. Molds, mushrooms and puff- 




110 amateur's practical garden -book 

balls are familiar examples. Some of the parasitic kinds 
cause great damage to the plants or animals on which they 
live. Examples of these injurious parasitic kinds are apple - 
scab fungus, potato mildew, grape mildew, corn smut 
fungus, and the like. Most of these are combated by 
spraying with materials containing copper or sulfur. 

Funkia, or Day Lily. Hardy perennial herbs, 

growing in dense clumps and bearing attractive foliage. 
They are of the easiest culture. F. suhcordata, the white- 
flowered species, is commonest. Of blue -flowered forms there 
are several, of which F. ovata (or F. cwnilea) is perhaps 
the best. Funkias are excellent for borders, or as a formal 
edging to long walks or drives. There are variegated forms. 
Funkias grow 12 to 24 inches high, and the flower clusters 
stand still higher. Propagated by dividing the roots. Day 
Lily is a name applied also to species of Hemerocallis, 
which are yellow -flowered lilies. 

Gaillardias are plants that should have a place 

in every garden, either as border plants or for cutting. The 
flowers are very showy and lasting in bouquets, as 
well as on the plants. The double form has perfect 
balls of color. Gaillardias are both annual and per- 
ennial. The perennials usually have flowers much 
larger than the annuals ; and they bloom the first year 
if seed is started early. These are also propagated by 
seed or cuttings. If from seed, it should be sown 
under glass in February or March, setting out the 
young plants where wanted when danger of frost is 
over. The cuttings may be made of the new growth 
in the fall and wintered over in the house. Set 2 feet 
apart. Height 2 feet, blooming from July until hard frosts. 
The perennials are usually orange. 

The annual kind {Gaillardia picta of florists) is prob- 
ably the best kind for the home garden. It is of the 
easiest culture. Hardy. Two feet. Sow seeds where 




GAILLARDIA— GLADIOLUS HI 

plants are to bloom. The colors of the flowers are in 
rich shades of yellow and red. 

Galanthus. See Snowdrop. 

Garlic. An onion-like plant, the bulbs of which 
are used for flavoring. Little known in this country except 
amongst those of foreign birth. It is multiplied the same 
as multiplier onions — the bulb is broken apart and each 
bulbule or "clove" makes a new compound bulb in a few 
weeks. Hardy; plant in early spring, or in the South in 
the fall. Plant 2 to 3 inches apart in the row. 

Gas Plant is Dictamnus. 

Geranium. What are generally known as 

Geraniums are, strictly speaking. Pelargoniums, which see. 
The true Geraniums are mostly hardy plants, and therefore 
should not be confounded with the tender Pelargoniums. 
Geraniums are worthy a place in a border. They are 
hardy perennials, and may be transplanted early in the 
spring, setting them 2 feet apart. Height 10 to 12 inches. 

The common wild Cranesbill {Geranium maculatum) im- 
proves under cultivation, and is an attractive plant when it 
stands in front of taller foliage. 

Gilia. Low -growing hardy annuals, good for 
front borders or rockwork, growing from seed very quickly 
and continuing in flower a long season. They will do well 
in light soil. Sow seed in the fall or early spring where 
plants are wanted. Gilia tricolor, blue, white and yellow, 
is the best, but there are excellent white and red sorts. 

Gladiolus. A popular summer -flowering bul- 
bous plant, thriving best in moist, sandy loam, that has had 
an application of well rotted manure the previous year. 
No manure should be used the year of planting, as it has a 
tendency to rot the bulbs. Plantings maybe made from the 
time the ground is in condition to work in the spring until 
late in June. In planting, the bulbs should be set 3 inches 



112 amateur's practical garden -book 

deep and 8 to 10 inches apart, unless they are to be grown 
in groups, when they may be planted five or six in the 
space of 1 foot. Stakes should be furnished each plant 
to support the flower-spike. When in groups, one stake 
may be used, setting it in the middle of the circle. 

Gladioli are increased by bulblets formed around the 
old bulbs (or corms), or they may be grown from seed. The 
bulblets should be planted in drills in April or May, and 
will grow to flowering size in one or two years. In the 
same way, seed sown early in drills, grown through the 
summer, the little bulbs taken up and stored through the 
winter and again planted out, will often make bulbs large 
enough to flower the second year. 

Care should be taken to lift all bulbs before freezing 
weather, as most varieties are tender. They should be har- 
vested with the tops on, and laid away in a cool, dry place 
to ripen. The tops are then cut off and the bulbs stored in 
a dry place (fit for potatoes, but drier) until wanted the fol- 
lowing spring. See Bulbs. 

Glaucium, or Horned Poppy. The kind most 

cultivated (G. luteum) has bright yellow flowers in July and 
September. The flowers, contrasting with the deep cut 
glaucous leaves, make a fine effect in the mixed or ribbon 
border. Seed may be sown in the open ground where 
wanted. Thin to 12 inches apart. Height 12 to 20 inches. 
Perennial; but treated as a hardy annual. 

Gloxinia. Choice greenhouse tuberous -rooted 
perennials, sometimes seen in window gardens, but really 
not adapted to them. Gloxinias must have a uniform moist 
and warm atmosphere and protection from the sun. They 
will not stand abuse or varying conditions. Propagated 
often by leaf-cuttings, which should give flowering plants 
in one year. From the leaf, inserted half its length in the 
soil ( or sometimes only the petiole inserted) a tuber arises. 
This tuber, after resting until midwinter or later, is planted 
and flowering plants soon arise. Gloxinias also grow readily 



GLOXINIA— GOMPHRENA 113 

from seeds, which may be germinated in a temperature of 
about 70°. Flowering plants may be had in a year if seeds 
are sown in late winter or early spring. This is the 
usual method. Soil should be porous and rich. 

Godetia. Very free -blooming annuals in fine 
colors, harmonizing well with the California poppy. Many 
of the varieties are beautifully blotched with contrasting 
colors. They are very satisfactory plants for solid beds or 
border lines, blooming from June to October. Seed may be 
sown in heat, and seedlings planted in open ground at a dis- 
tance of 18 inches apart when danger of frost is over. A 
rather poor soil will cause them to bloom better than one 
very rich, as they are inclined to make a rank growth. 
Height 1 to 2 feet. 

Golden Feather. See PyretJirum. 

Goldenrod {Solidago of many species). 
The Goldenrod of the wayside is so familiar that the 
thought of bringing it into the garden is distasteful 
to many persons. But if given a suitable place in a 
well enriched border, no plant has greater possibili- 
ties. A large clump against a hedge of green, or 
massed behind a well grown plant of the blue -flower- 
ing wild asters, makes a striking contrast. They bloom 
late in the season, and the rich yellow and golden 
colors and the graceful forms are always pleasing. Golden 

Goldenrods will grow more vigorously and the blooms be 
larger if the roots are divided every third or fourth year. 
There are several species catalogued by nurserymen, and 
some of the stock is superior to the wild type, either having 
a larger truss of flowers or blooming later. Goldenrods 
range in height from 2 to 6 feet. All are easily propagated 
by division. Transplant in the fall, if convenient, although 
spring planting may be equally successful. 

Gomphrena. Bachelor's Button. Globe 

Amaranth. A useful everlasting for winter bouquets. Seed 





114 AMATEUR^ S PRACTICAL GARDEN -BOOK 

may be sown in heat in March, the plants transplanted once 
before setting out to cause them to grow stocky and branch- 
ing ; or seed may be sown in a warm place where the plants 
are to grow. The flowers, to retain their colors, should be 
cut before fully expanded and dried in a dark, airy place. 
See Everlastings. Set the plants 18 inches apart. Height 
12 inches. The heads resemble clover heads. The term 
Bachelor's Button is also given to the cornflower {Centaur ea 
Cyan us) . 

Gooseberry. Since the advent of the practice 
of spraying with fungicides to prevent mildew, the cul- 
ture of the Gooseberry has increased. There 
is now no reason why, with a little care, 
good crops of many of the best English va- 
rieties may not be grown. The price for 
good fruits of Gooseberry is usually remu- 
nerative, as the market is rarely overstocked by the sudden 
ripening of the crop, since the fruits ripen through a long 
season. A large part of the crop is picked green for culinary 
purposes. The leading market variety is Downing, a native 
sort, which is little subject to mildew. Several of the Eng- 
lish varieties have proved of value, having larger fruits than 
the natives. Whitesmith, Chautauqua, Triumph and In- 
dustry are among the best. 

The propagation of the Gooseberry is similar to that of 
the currant, although the practice of earthing up a whole 
plant, causing every branch thus covered to throw out roots, 
is common with the European varieties. The rooted 
branches are cut off the following spring and planted in 
nursery rows or sometimes directly in the field. In order to 
succeed with this method, the plant should have been cut 
back to the ground so that all the shoots are yearling. 

Pruning is essentially the same as for the currant 
(which see); and the treatment of the currant worm is the 
same as for that fruit. 

Gooseberries should be set (either in fall or spring) 3 to 



GOOSEBERRY— GRAFTING 115 

4 feet apart; rows 5 to 7 feet apart. Select a rich, rather 
moist soil. The tops need no winter protection. If mil- 
dew and worms are to be kept in check, spraying must 
be begun with the very first sign of trouble and be thor- 
oughly done. 

Gourds are valuable as rapid -growing screen 
vines, the curious fruits of many varieties adding much to 
their attractiveness. Cultivation the same as for melons or 
squashes. Height 10 to 15 feet. Provide a chicken -wire 
trellis ; or let them run on a brush pile. 

Grafting. Grafting is the operation of insert- 
ing a piece of a plant into another plant with the intention 
that it shall grow. It differs from the making of cuttings 
in the fact that the severed part grows in another plant 
rather than in the soil. There are two general kinds of 
Grafting — one of which inserts a piece of branch in the 
stock (Grafting proper), and one which inserts only a bud 
with little or no wood attached (budding). In both cases 
the success of the operation depends upon the growing 
together of the cambium of the cion (or cutting) and that of 
the stock. The cambium is the new and growing tissue 
which lies underfleath the bark and on the outside of the 
growing wood. Therefore, the line of demarcation between 
the bark and the wood should coincide when the cion and 
stock are .joined. The plant upon which the severed piece is 
set is called the stock. The part which is removed and set 
into the stock is called a cion if it is a piece of a branch, or 
a bud if it is only a single bud with a bit of tissue attached. 
The greater part of Grafting and budding is done when the 
cion or bud is nearly or quite dormant. That is, Grafting 
is usually done late in winter and early in spring, and bud- 
ding may be done then, or late in summer, when the buds 
have nearly or quite matured. 

The prime object of Grafting is to perpetuate a kind of 
plant which will not reproduce itself from seed or of which 
seed is very diflficult to obtain. Cions or buds are therefore 



116 amateur's practical garden-book 




taken from this plant and set into whatever kind of plant is 

obtainable and on which they will grow. Thus, if one 

wants to propagate the Baldwin apple, he does not for 

that purpose sow seeds thereof, but takes cions or 

buds from the tree and grafts them into some other 

apple tree. The stocks are usually obtained from 

seeds. In the case of the apple, young plants are 

raised from seeds which are obtained mostly from 

cider factories, without reference to the variety from 

which they came. When the seedlings have grown 

The bud severed ^q q^ Certain age, they are budded or grafted ; and 

thereafter they bear fruit like that of the tree from 

which the cions were taken. 

There are many ways in which the union between cion 
and stock is made. Budding may be first discussed. 
It consists in inserting a bud underneath the bark of 
the stock, and the commonest practice is that which is 
shown in the illustrations. Budding is mostly per- 
formed in July, August and early September, when 
the bark is still loose or will peel. Twigs are cut 
from the tree which it is desired to propagate, and 
the buds are cut off with a sharp knife, a shield-shaped 
bit of bark (with possibly a little wood) being left 
with them (see illustration). The bud is then shoved into a 
slit made in the stock, and it is held in place by tying 
with some soft strand. In two or three weeks the bud 
will have "stuck" (that is, it will have grown fast to 
the stock), and the strand is cut to prevent its strang- 
ling the stock. Ordinarily the bud does not grow until 
the following spring, at which time the entire stock or 
branch in which the bud is inserted is cut off an inch 
above the bud ; and the bud thereby receives all the 
: bud energy of the stock. Budding is the commonest Graf- 
ting operation in nurseries. Seeds of peaches may be 
sown in spring, and the plants which result will be ready 
for budding that same August. The following spring, or 




GRAFTING 



117 



Cleft-graft 



a year from the planting of the seed, the stock is cut off 
just above the bud (which is inserted near the ground), and 
in the fall of that year the tree is ready for sale ; that 
is, the top is one season old and the root is two seasons 
old, but in the trade it is known as a 1-year-old 
tree. In apples and pears the stock is usually two 
years old before it is budded, and the tree is not sold 
until the top has grown two or three years. Budding 
may be performed also in the spring, in which case the 
bud will grow the same season. Budding is always 
done in young branches, preferably in those not more 
than one year old. 

Grafting is the insertion of a small branch 
(or cion), usually bearing more than one bud. If 
Grafting is done on small stocks, it is customary "^hip-graft 
to employ the whip -graft, which is illustrated in the 
margin. Both 'stock and cion are cut across diagon- 
ally, and a split made in each, so that one fits into the 
other. The graft is tied securely with a string, and 
then, if it is above ground, it is also waxed carefully. 
In larger limbs or stocks, the common method is to 
employ the cleft-graft. This consists in cutting off the 
stock, splitting it and inserting a wedge-shaped cion 
in one or both sides of the split, taking care that 
the cambium layer of the cion matches that of 
the stock. The exposed surfaces are then se- 
curely covered with wax. Grafting is usually performed 
early in the spring, just before the buds swell. The 
cions should have been cut before this time, when they 
were perfectly dormant. Cions may be stored in sand 
in the cellar or in the ice house, or they may be 
buried in the field. The object is to keep them fresh 
and dormant until they are wanted. 

If it is desired to change the top of an old plum, 
apple or pear tree to some other variety, it is usually done 
by means of the cleft-graft. If the tree is very young, bud- 





118 amateur's practical garden -book 

ding or whip-grafting may be employed. On an old top the 
cions should begin to bear when three to four years old. 
All the main limbs should be grafted. It is important to 
keep down the suckers or water-sprouts from around the 
grafts, and part of the remaining top should be cut away 
each year until the top is entirely changed over (which will 
result in two to four years). 

A good wax for covering the exposed parts is made as 
follows: Resin, 4 parts by weight; beeswax, 2 parts; tal- 
low, 1 part. In making the wax, the materials are first 
broken up and melted together. When thoroughly melted 
the liquid is poured into a pail or tub of cold water. It soon 
becomes hard enough to handle, and it is then pulled and 
worked over until it becomes tough or "gets a grain," at 
which stage it becomes the color of very light-colored 
manilla paper. When wax is applied by hand, the hands 
must be well greased. Hard cake tallow is the best ma- 
terial for this purpose. In top-grafting large trees, it is 
well to carry a supply of tallow when waxing, by smearing 
the backs of the hands before entering the tree. 

Grape. One of the surest of fruit crops is 
the Grape, a crop each year being reasonably certain after 
the third year from the time of setting the vines. The 
Grape does well on any soil that is under good cultivation 
and well drained. A soil with considerable clay is better 
under these circumstances than a light, sandy loam. The 
exposure should be to the sun; and the place should admit 
of cultivation on all sides. One- or 2-year-old vines should 
be planted, either in the fall or early spring. At planting 
the vine is cut back to 3 or 4 eyes, and the roots are well 
shortened in. The hole in which the plant is to be set 
should be large enough to allow a full spreading of the 
roots. Fine soil should be worked around the roots and 
firmed with the feet. If the season should be dry, a mulch 
of coarse litter may be spread around the vine. If all the 
buds start, the strongest one or two may be allowed to grow. 




GRAPE 119 

The eanes arising from these buds should be staked and allowed 
to grow through the season ; or in large plantations the first- 
year canes may be allowed to lie on the ground. The second 
year one cane should be cut back to the same number of eyes 
as the first year. After growth begins in the 
spring, two of the strongest buds should be 
allowed to remain. These two eanes now aris- 
ing may be grown to a single stake through the 
second summer, or they may be spread hori- 
zontally on a trellis. These are the canes which 
form the permanent arms or parts of the vine. 
From them start the upright shoots which, in 
succeeding years, are to bear the fruits. *"'^^^ 

In order to understand the pruning of Grapes, the opera- 
tor must fully grasp this principle: Fruit is home on ivood of 
the present season, lohich arises from icood of the previous 
season. To illustrate: A growing shoot, or cane of 1899, 
makes buds. In 1900 a shoot arises from each bud; and 
near the base of this shoot the Grapes are borne (1 to 4 
clusters on each). While every bud on the 1899 shoot may 
produce shoots or canes in 1900, only the strongest of these 
new canes will bear fruit. The skilled Grape-grower can 
tell by the looks of his cane (as he prunes it in winter) 
which buds will give rise to the Grape -producing wood the 
following season. The larger and stronger buds usually 
give best results; but if the cane itself is very big and 
stout, or if it is very weak and slender, he does not expect 
good results from any of its buds. A hard, well-ripened 
cane the diameter of a man's little finger is the ideal size. 

Another principle to be mastered is this : A vine should 
hear only a limited numher of clusters, — say from 30 to 80. A 
shoot bears clusters near its base ; beyond these clusters the 
shoot grows on into a long, leafy cane. An average of two 
clusters may be reckoned to a shoot. If the vine is strong 
enough to bear 60 clusters, 30 good buds must be left at the 
pruning (which is done from December to late February). 



120 amateur's practical garden -book 

The essential operation of pruning a Grape vine, there- 
fore, is each year to cut back a limited number of good 
canes to a few buds, and to cut off entirely all the remain- 
ing canes or wood of the previous season's growth. If a cane is 
cut back to 2 or 3 buds, the stub -like part which remains is 
called a spur. Present systems, however, cut each cane 
back to 8 or 10 buds (on strong varieties), and 3 or 4 canes 
are left, — all radiating from near the head or trunk of the 
vine. The top of the vine does not grow bigger from year 
to year, after it has once covered the trellis, but is cut back 
to practically the same number of buds each year. Since 
these buds are on new wood, it is evident that they are each 
year farther and farther removed from the head of the vine. 
In order to obviate this difficulty, new canes are taken out 
each year or two from near the head of the vine, and the 
2-year or 3-year-old wood is cut away. 

The training of Grapes is a different matter. A dozen 
different systems of training may be practiced on the same 
trellis and from the same style of pruning, — for training is 
only the disposition or arrangement of the parts. 

On arbors, it is best to carry one permanent arm or 
trunk from each root over the framework to the peak. Each 
year the canes are cut back to short spurs (of 2 or 3 buds) 
along the sides of this trunk. 

Grapes are set from 6 to 8 feet apart in rows which are 
8 to 10 feet apart. A trellis made of 2 or 3 wires is the 
best support. Slat trellises catch too much wind and blow 
down. Avoid stimulating manures. In very cold climates, 
the vines may be taken off the trellis in early winter and 
laid on the ground and lightly covered with earth. Along 
the boundaries of home lots, where Grapes are often planted, 
little is to be expected in the way of fruit because the ground 
is not well tilled. For mildew and rot, spray with Bordeaux 
mixture. See Spraying. 

Concord is the most cosmopolitan variety, but its quality 
is not the best. For the home garden, a good selection may 



GRAPE— GRAPERY 121 

be made from the following list: Winchell or Green Moun- 
tain, Campbell Early, Worden, Concord, Niagara, Moore 
Diamond, Vergennes, Agawam, Salem, Wilder, lona, 
Brighton, Delaware. 

Grapery. The European grapes rarely thrive 
out of doors in eastern America. Grape houses are neces- 
sary, with or without artificial heat. Fruit for home use may 
be grown very satisfactorily in a cold Grapery (without ar- 
tificial heat). A simple lean-to against the south side of a 
building or wall is cheap and serviceable. When a separate 
building is desired, an even-span house running north and 
south is preferable. There is no advantage in having a 
curved roof, except as a matter of looks. A compost of four 
parts rotted turf to one of manure is laid on a sloping cement 
bottom outside the house, making a border 12 feet wide and 
2 feet deep. The cement may be replaced with rubble on 
well drained soils, but it is a poor makeshift. Every three 
years the upper 6 inches of the border should be renewed 
with manure. The border inside the house is prepared like- 
wise. Two-year-old potted vines are planted about 4 feet 
apart in a single row. Part of the roots go through a crevice 
in the wall to the outer border and part remain inside ; or all 
may go outside if the house is desired for other purposes. 
One strong cane is trained to a wire trellis hanging at least 
18 inches from the glass, and is cut back to 3 feet the first 
year, 6 the second, and 9 the third. Do not be in a hurry 
to get a long cane. Pruning is on the spur system, as rec- 
ommended for arbors on page 120. The vines are usually laid 
on the ground for winter and covered with leaves or wrapped 
with cloth. 

As soon as the buds swell in early spring, tie the vines 
to the trellis and start out one shoot from each spur, rub- 
bing off all others. After the berries begin to color, however, 
it is better to leave all further growth to shade the fruit. 
Pinch back each of these laterals two joints beyond the 
second bunch. To keep down red spider and thrips, the 



122 



foliage should be sprayed with water every bright morning 
except during the blooming season. At least one-third of 
the berries should be thinned from each bunch ; do not be 
afraid of taking out too many. Water the inside border 
frequently all through the summer, and the outside occa- 
sionally if the season is dry. Mildew may appear in July. 
The best preventives are to syringe faithfully, admit air 
freely, and sprinkle sulfur on the ground. 

Fruit may be kept fresh on the vines in a warm ( or arti- 
ficially heated) Grapery until late December: in a coldhouse 
it must be picked before frost. After the fruit is off, venti- 
late from top and bottom and withhold water, so as to thor- 
oughly ripen the wood. Along in November the canes are 
pruned, covered with straw or wrapped with mats and laid 
down till spring. Black Hamburg is superior to all other 
varieties for a cold Grapery ; Bowood Muscat, Muscat of 
Alexandria and Chasselas Musque may be added in the warm- 
house. Good vines will live and bear almost indefinitely. — 
S. W. Fletcher. 

Grasses of various kinds Sive grown for orna- 
ment, the most popular types being the hardy perennials, 
which make attractive clumps in the lawn or border. The 
best of the permanent kinds in the North are the various 
sorts of Eulalia (properly Miscan thus). When once estab- 
lished they remain for years, making large and bold clumps. 
The striped kind, or zebra grass, is particularly good. These 
grasses thrive in any good soil. They grow from 4 to 7 feet 
high. The great reed, or Arundo Donax, is a bold subject 
and perfectly hardy. In a rich and rather moist soil, it 
grows 10 to 12 feet high when well establishd. Pampas 
Grass is most excellent in the Middle States and South. 
Some of the big native grasses and sedges make attractive 
lawn clumps. 

Grasses are also grown for dry or everlasting bouquets. 
For this purpose, small-growing delicate annual species are 
mostly used. Good types are species of agrostis, briza, 



GRASSES— GREENHOUSE 128 

bromus, eragrostis, and pennisetum. Seeds of these and 
of others are sold by seedsmen. With ordinary treatment, 
they thrive in any garden soil. 

For notes on sod -making, see Lawn. 

Greenhouse. In America the word Greenhouse 
has come to be applied to all kinds of glass-houses in which 
plants are grown. Originally the word was applied to those 
houses in which plants are merely preserved or kept green 
during the winter. Other types of glass-houses are the con- 
servatory, in which plants are displayed ; stove or hothouse, 
in which plants are grown in a high temperature ; the prop- 
agating pit, in which the multiplication of plants is carried 
forward ; and the houses which have various temperatures, 
as cold, cool and intermediate. The principles which under- 
lie the construction and management of glass-houses are too 
extensive to be discussed here. The reader should refer to 
special books on the topic. For the general subject, Taft's 
"Greenhouse Construction" and "Greenhouse Management" 
are excellent. For particular applications to floriculture, 
Hunt's "How to Grow Cut-flowers" is a standard work. 
For applications to the forcing of vegetable crops, Bailey's 
"Forcing-Book" may perhaps be consulted. 

The smaller the glass-house the more difficult it is to 
manage, because it is likely to be more variable in tempera- 
ture, moisture and other conditions. This is particularly 
true if the house is a small lean-to against the south side of 
a dwelling house, for it becomes very hot at midday and 
comparatively cold at night. In order to moderate the heat 
in these little houses, it is ordinarily advisable to use ground 
glass for the roof or to whitewash it. The house conserva- 
tory may be heated by a coal stove, but the best results are 
rarely to be attained in this case. A stove is likely to leak 
gas, and the temperature is more or less uneven. The best 
results are to be attained when the conservatory is heated 
by steam or hot water, piped in the modern fashion with 
wrought iron pipes, which go together with threads. If the 



124 amateur's practical garden -book 

conservatory is heated from the heater which supplies the 
dwelling house, it should have an extra amount of pipe ; 
otherwise it will be necessary to keep the dwelling house 
too hot for comfort in order to maintain the conservatory at 
its proper temperature. It is always best, when practicable, 
to heat the conservatory with a separate apparatus. There 
are various small hot water and steam heaters, the size of coal 
stoves, which are excellent for the purpose. For a small 
conservatory, hot water is usually preferable to steam, since 
it is less likely to fluctuate. For large establishments, how- 
ever, the steam is usually the better. For further discus- 
sions of related subjects, see Hotbed, Window Garden, 
Potting and Watering. 

Grevillea. A very graceful greenhouse plant, 
suitable for house culture. The plants grow freely from 
seed, and until they become too large are as decorative as 
ferns. Grevilleas are really trees, and are valuable in 
greenhouses and rooms only in their young state. They 
withstand much abuse. They are now very popular as jar- 
diniere subjects. Seeds sown in spring will give handsome 
plants by the next winter. 

Gypsophila. Baby's Breath. Gypsophila 

muralis is one of the dainty little plants called Baby's Breath. 
It is alow-growing annual forming compact mounds of green, 
thickly covered with little pink flowers. It is one of the 
most attractive border plants in cultivation. It is also a 
charming pot-plant. G. panicidata is a hardy perennial hav- 
ing panicles of bluish white flowers. This is very graceful, and 
the flowers are fine for cutting and for use with sweet pea 
bouquets or with other choice flowers. The panicles are so 
lasting that they may be used in winter bouquets. The an- 
nuals may be planted 1 foot apart; the perennials 3 feet. 
Both are readily grown from seed, and bloom the first year. 

Hardy. A relative term, used to denote a 
plant which endures the climate (particularly the winter 



HARDY — HEDGES 125 

climate) of a given place. Half-hardy plants are those 
which withstand some frost or uncongenial conditions, but 
will not endure the severity of the climate. Tender plants 
are those which are injured by light frosts. 

Hedges. Hedges are much less used in this 

country than in Europe, and for several reasons. Our 
climate is dry, and most Hedges do not thrive so well here as 
there; labor is high-priced, and the trimming is therefore 
likely to be neglected; our farms are so large that much 
fencing is required ; timber and wire are cheaper than live 
Hedges. However, they are used with good effects about 
the home grounds. In order to secure a good Hedge, it is 
necessary to have a thoroughly well-prepared, deep soil, to 
set the plants close, and to shear them at least twice every 
year. For evergreen Hedges the most serviceable plant in 
general is the arborvitse. The plants may be set at dis- 
tances of 1 to 2% feet apart. For choice Hedges about the 
grounds, particularly outside the northern states, some of 
the retinosporas are very useful. One of the most satis- 
factory of all coniferous plants for Hedges is the common 
hemlock, which stands shearing well and makes a very soft 
and pleasing mass. The plants may be set from 1 to 3 feet 
apart. Other plants which hold their leaves and are good 
for Hedges are the common box and the privets. Box 
Hedges are the best for very low borders about walks and 
flower beds. The dwarf variety can be kept down to a 
height of 6 inches to a foot for any number of years. The 
larger-growing varieties make excellent Hedges 3, 4 and 5 
feet high. The ordinary privet or prim holds its leaves well 
into winter in the North. The so-called Calif ornian privet 
holds its leaves rather longer and stands better along the 
seashore. In the southern states, nothing is better than 
Citrus trifoliata. 

For Hedges of deciduous plants, the most common species 
are the buckthorn, the European thorn apple or Crataegus, 
osage orange, and various kinds of roses. 



126 amateur's practical garden -book 

Hedges should be trimmed the year after they are set, 
although they should not be trimmed very closely until they 
reach the desired or permanent height. Thereafter they 
should be sheared into the desired form in spring or fall. 
If the plants are allowed to grow for a year or two without 
trimming, they lose their lower leaves and become open and 
straggly. Osage orange and some other plants are plashed — 
that is, the plants are set at an angle rather than perpen- 
dicularly, and they are wired together in such a way that 
they make an impenetrable barrier just above the surface of 
the ground. 

Helianthus. See Sunflower. 

Helichrysum. These are perhaps the most 
popular of the Everlastings (which see), having I'arge flowers 
of several colors. They grow readily from seed, blooming 
from July to October. Height 10 inches to 2 feet. Should 
be planted or thinned to stand 18 inches apart. 

Heliotrope. A universal favorite house or 
border plant, growing readily from cuttings or seeds, and 
producing quantities of fragrant violet, purple or white 
flowers. One of the best methods of cultivation is to set a 
strong plant in the border and peg the new growths to the 
ground, where they will root and form a perfect mat, flower- 
ing profusely during the fall months until frost. They 
will endure the temperature of a living room well if the 
room is not too dry. Red spider is a natural enemy of the 
Heliotrope, and when^ once it obtains a foothold is a very 
difficult pest to manage, but frequent syringing with water 
will keep it in check. A light, rich soil and an abundance 
of heat are their requirements. Height 1 to 3 feet. Propa- 
gated by cuttings or layers. 

Hellebore (White Hellebore) is often used for 
the killing of currant-worms and other insects (see Currant) . 
It is not so poisonous as the arsenites, and therefore is to be 
preferred when it is necessary to apply a poison to nearly 



HELLEBORE— HIBISCUS 127 

ripe fruit. It is usually applied in a spray with water, at 
the rate of % ounce to the gallon. It is harmless to foliage. 

Helleborus, or Christmas Rose, may be had 

in flower at the holidays if grown in a frame and pro- 
tected. The usual time for it to flower in the open border is 
in March or early April. It will continue to bloom for many 
years if grown in a shady place. Roots may be divided as 
an increase is wanted. It may also be grown from seeds; 
and seedlings may be expected to bloom a year from the 
spring in which they are sown. Height 6 to 10 inches. 

Hemerocallis, or Yellow Day Lily. The 

advice given under Funkia will apply to this. 

Herbs are plants which die to the ground in 

winter. They may be annual, biennial, or perennial. For 
a list of annual Herbs suitable for the flower garden, see 
the articles on Annuals and Bedding. A border or free mass 
of perennial Herbs is one of the charms of any place. It is 
informal, easy of care, and self-sustaining. The large part 
of the mass should be composed of common and hardy 
things — wild or from gardens — and incidental features 
may be made of the choicer and rarer exotics. In most 
cases, plants look better when judiciously mixed than when 
planted one kind in a bed. See Border. 

Hibiscus. Annuals and perennials, some of 
them shrubs, with showy, hollyhock-like flowers. The an- 
nual Hibiscuses are very satisfactory. They grow quickly 
and flower freely. The flowers are usually white or yel- 
low, of large size, and appear from July on. The herba- 
ceous perennial kinds are amongst the best of hardy border 
plants, blooming in late summer and fall. The commonest 
of these is Hibiscus Moscheuios. Give rich, moist soil. 

The greenhouse species are old favorites. They may be 
used in outdoor bedding through the summer, lifted in the 
fall and cut back. Keep rather dry and dormant during 
winter. Propagated by cuttings. 



128 



AMATEUR'S PRACTICAL GARDEN -BOOK 




Hippeastrum. Consult Amaryllis. 

Hoes should be of several patterns if the 
most efficient work is to be done in the garden. The 
ordinary Hoe is adapted only to the rougher and coarser 
Hoe -work, such as digging and fitting the ground. For 
much of the subsequent tillage, some of the narrow- 
blade and pointed Hoes are excellent. For cutting 
off weeds, the push Hoe or scarifier is excellent. 

Hollyhock. These old garden favorites 
oe have been neglected of late years, primarily 
because the Hollyhock rust has been so prev- 
alent, destroying the plants or making the mun- 
sightly. The double varieties seem to suffer the 
most; and for that reason, and from the fact that 
the less formal type is in favor, the single varieties are now 
the most generally grown. Their culture is very simple. The 
seed is usually sown in July or August, and the plants set 
where wanted the following spring. They will bloom the 
same year in which they are transplanted — the year follow- 
ing the seed-sowing. New plants should be set every two 
years, as the old crowns are apt to rot or die after the first 
flowering. For rust, spray early with Bordeaux 
mixture or ammoniaeal carbonate of copper. 

Hop, Ornamental. Humulus Japon- 

ictis, or the annual Hop, is one of the best 
rapid-growing screen vines in cultivation. It 
makes a dense canopy of attractive foliage. The 
leaves are finely cut, and in one variety varie- 
gated with white. This variegated variety is a 
fine vine for a porch or front screen, always 
attracting attention to its markings. This Hop 
is propagated by seed sown in boxes in March. 
When once established, it will seed itself and 
start as soon as the soil becomes warm. Set 
Hollyhocks plants 4 to 8 feet apart. Height 8 to 20 feet. 




HORSERADISH— HOTBED 129 

Horseradish. As a kitchen garden vegetable, 

this is usually planted in some out-of-the-way spot and a 
piece of the root dug as often as needed, the fragments of 
roots being left in the soil to grow for further use. This 
method results in having nothing but tough, stringy roots, 
very unlike the product of a properly planted and well 
eared for bed. The best roots are those planted in the 
spring at the time of setting early cabbage, and dug as late 
the same fall as the weather will permit. It becomes, 
therefore, an annual crop. The roots for planting are 
small pieces, from 4 to 6 inches long, obtained when trim- 
ming the roots dug in the fall. These pieces may be packed 
in sand and stored until wanted the following spring. In 
planting, the roots should be set with the upper end 3 inches 
below the surface of the ground, using a dibber or sharp - 
pointed stick in making the holes. The crop maybe planted 
between rows of early- sown beets, lettuce or other crop, 
and given full possession of the ground when these crops are 
harvested. Where the ground is inclined to be stiff or the 
subsoil is near the surface, the roots may be set in a slant- 
ing position. In fact, many gardeners practice this method 
of planting, thinking that the roots make a better growth 
and are more uniform in size. 

Hotbed. A Hotbed is a frame or box which 
has artificial heat and a transparent covering and in which 
plants are grown. It differs from a eoldframe (which see) 
in the fact that it has artificial bottom heat. This bottom 
heat is usually supplied by fermenting organic matter, 
chiefly horse manure, but hot air, hot water or steam con- 
veyed in pipes, may be employed. It is covered with sash 
of which the normal or standard size is 3 feet wide and 6 
feet long. These sashes are laid crosswise the box or frame. 
The standard size of frame is 6 feet wide and 12 feet long. 
A "frame," therefore, accommodates four sashes. However, 
the frame may be of any length desired. This frame is 
ordinarily made of boards, and the back of it is 3 or 4 




130 amateur's practical garden -book 

inches higher than the front, so that the sashes slope to 
the sun. It is customary to have a space of 6 to 10 inches 
between the earth and the sash on the lower or front side. 
The manure which is used to heat the bed 
may be placed on top of the ground and the 
frame set on the pile, or it may be placed 
in a pit. If the land is warm and well drained, 
it is ordinarily better to have a pit from 1 to 

Section of a Hotbed ,■.«,-, ■, , , ,, « • , mi • 

2 feet deep and to set the frame over it. This 
is especially the case if it is desired to have a permanent 
Hotbed yard. The place in which the frames are set should 
be protected from the cold and prevailing winds by a rising- 
slope, a high board fence, a building, hedge, or other ob- 
struction. If the frame yard is near the main buildings, 
it will be much more accessible in rainy or snowy times, 
and the plants are likely to have better care. Water should 
also be handy. 

The time of starting a Hotbed will depend upon the 
kinds of plants to be grown, the amount of time which one 
wishes to gain, and something, also, on the quality of the 
manure. The hardier the plant the earlier it can be started. 
In the latitude of New York, from the first to the middle of 
March is the usual time for starting a Hotbed. In this bed are 
sown seeds of early flowers and such vegetables as cabbage, 
cauliflower, tomato, etc. In the raising of any plants in the 
Hotbed, it is very essential that they do not become " drawn " 
or "leggy." In order to prevent this, they must be given 
plenty of room, thorough ventilation on all pleasant days, 
and not too great heat. It is well to transplant them once 
or twice before they are finally set in the field, especially if 
they are started, in New York, as early as the first or middle 
of March. When they are transplanted, they can be set in 
another Hotbed or in a coldframe ; but it is important that 
the succeeding frames ir which they are set should not be 
very much colder than the one in which they grew, else they 
may become stunted. It is well, however, to transplant 



HOTBED 131 

them into a gradually cooler and freer atmosphere in order 
to harden them off, so that they may go into the open ground 
without danger. On every pleasant day, raise the sash at 
the upper end 1 or 2 inches, or if the sun shines brightly 
and the wind does not blow, give even more air ; and even- 
tually strip off the sashes entirely. It is very important that 
the plants are not kept too close and grown too soft. It is 
usually advisable to sow cabbage, lettuce and other hardy 
plants in different frames from tomatoes and other tender 
things, in order that the proper requirements may be given 
to each. At night the Hotbeds (at least early in the season) 
will need more protection than the glass sash. It was for- 
merly the custom to use thick rye -straw mats to cover Hot- 
beds, but it is now a common practice to use the straw 
matting which can be bought of carpet dealers. This 
is rolled out on the sashes at night in one or two thick- 
nesses ; and if the weather is sharp, board shutters, the 
size of the sash, may be laid on top. As the manure heat 
begins to fail give more and more air, so that the plants 
may be able to shift for themselves when the bottom heat is 
finally exhausted. 

Fresh horse manure is the material which is commonly 
used for the heating of Hotbeds. If it can be secured from 
livery stables, so that it is all of nearly or quite the same age, 
better results may be expected. Manure from highly fed 
horses usually heats better than that from horses which re- 
ceive little grain, or in which there is veiy much litter. Put 
the manure in a pile, preferably under cover, and as soon as 
it shows signs of heating, fork it over in order to mix the 
entire mass and to cause it to heat evenly. When it is 
steaming throughout the whole mass, it may be put in the 
bed. Assuming that the Hotbed has a pit beneath it, it is 
well to put in 2 or 3 inches of coarse litter in order to keep 
the manure off the cold ground. The manure is then put in 
and tramped down, in layers of 4 to 6 inches each. If the 
manure is of the right consistency, it will pack without be- 



132 amateur's practical garden -book 

coming dense and soggy; that is, it will spring a little be- 
neath the feet. If it has too much litter, it will fluff up 
under the feet and not pack well. From 18 to 24 or even 30 
inches of manure is placed in the pit. On top, an inch of 
dry straw or light leaf -mold may be placed to serve as a dis- 
tributor of the heat to the earth above. From 3 to 4 inches 
of rich, light earth is placed upon this, in which to sow the 
seed. The manure will ordinarily heat violently for a few 
days. Place a soil thermometer in it, and as soon as the 
temperature begins to fall below 90° the seeds of tomatoes 
and egg-plants may be sown; and when it begins to fall be- 
low 80,° the seeds of cabbages, lettuce and cauliflower may 
be sown. If the frame is not placed over a pit and the 
manure is put on top of the ground, it will be necessary to 
allow the body of manure to project 1 or 2 feet in all direc- 
tions in order to prevent the edges of the bed from freez- 
ing. 

In starting plants in a Hotbed, one must not expect to 
gain as much time in the crop as he gains in the starting of 
the seeds : that is, if he starts the seeds two months ahead 
of the normal season, he will not gain two months in the 
ripening of the crop. Ordinarily, he cannot expect to gain 
much more than one-half the time, particularly if the plants 
are transplanted to the field from the Hotbed. 

Some plants may be grown to maturity in the Hot- 
bed, particularly lettuce and radishes. After Hotbeds 
have been emptied of their plants, the sashes may be 
stored away, and the frames, with their spent manure, 
used for the growing of an early summer crop of mel- 
ons or cucumbers. 

House Plants. See Windoiv- Garden. 
Hyacinth HySizivith ^QSiU {BoUclios LoblaJ)) . Avery 
bean rapid-growiug twiner, bearing fragrant flowers of pur- 
ple or white. It is a fine screen plant. Plant seeds when the 
ground is warm where the plants are to grow ; or they may 
be started early in pots. Height 10 feet. 




HYACINTH 133 

Hyacinths are most popular winter- or spring - 
flowering bulbs. Hyacinths are hardy, but they are often 
used as window or greenhouse plants. They are easy to 
grow and very satisfactory. For winter flowering the bulbs 
should be procured early in the fall, potted in October in soil 
composed of loam, leaf -mold and sand. If ordinary flower 
pots are used, put in the bottom a few pieces of broken pots, 
charcoal or small stones for drainage ; then fill the pot with 
dirt, so that when the bulb is planted the top will be on a 
level with the rim of the pot. Fill in around the bulb with 
soil, leaving just the tip of the bulb showing. These pots of 
bulbs should be placed in a cold pit, cellar or on the shady 
side of a building. In all cases, plunge the pot in some cool ma- 
terial (as cinders). Before the weather becomes cold enough 
to freeze a crust on the ground, the pots should have a protec- 
tion of straw or leaves to keep the bulbs from severe freez- 
ing. In from six to eight weeks the bulbs should have made 
roots enough to grow the plant, and the pots may be 
placed in a cool room for a short time. When the plants have 
started into growth, they may be placed in a warmer situa- 
tion. Watering should be carefully attended to from this 
time, and when the plant is in bloom the pot may be set in a 
saucer or other shallow dish containing water. After flower- 
ing, the bulbs may be ripened by gradually witholding water 
until the leaves die. They may then be planted out in the 
border, where they will bloom each spring for a number of 
years, but will never prove satisfactory for forcing again. 
The open ground culture of Hyacinths is the same as for 
tulips, which see. See Bulbs. 

Water Culture of Hyacinths .—The Hyacinth is the most 
popular of the Dutch bulbs for growing in vases. The Nar- 
cissus may be grown in water, and do just as well, but it is 
not as pretty in glasses as the Hyacinth. Glasses for Hya- 
cinths may be had of florists who deal in supplies, and in 
various shapes and colors. The usual form is tall and nar- 
row, with a cup-like mouth to receive the bulb. They are 



134 amateur's practical garden -book 

filled with water, so that it will just reach the base of the 
bulb when it has been placed in position in the cup above. 
The vessels of dark- colored glass are preferable to those of 
clear glass, as roots prefer darkness. When the glasses, or 
bowls as above mentioned, have been arranged, they are set 
away in a cool, dark place to form roots like potted bulbs. 
Results are usually secured earlier in water than in soil. To 
keep the water sweet, a few lumps of charcoal may be put 
in the glass. As the water evaporates, add fresh; add 
enough so that it runs over, and thereby renews that in the 
glass. Do not disturb the roots by taking out the bulb. 

Hydrangea. One of tlie commonest lawn 
shrubs is Hydrangea paniculata. The commonest fault in 
growing it is scattering the plants over the lawn, where 
they suffer in the competition with grass roots, and do not 
show off to advantage. It is far better to mass them in 
front of taller things. The Hydrangea blooms on wood of 
the season ; therefore it should be pruned after bloom — in 
winter or early spring (see Pruning). Cut back heavily, in 
order to secure the strong new shoots upon which the 
flowers are borne. 

Hyssop. See Sweet Herhs. 

Ice Plant, or Mesembryanthemum. Fine little 

plants for roekwork or edging. The majority of the spe- 
cies are greenhouse and window plants, but a few can be 
recommended for outdoor planting. A very sunny location, 
with gravelly soil, will give the best results, either in the 
open or in the house. Easily propagated by pieces of the 
plant laid on moist sand in a somewhat sunny place. The 
common Ice Plant of window- gardens is readily grown from 
seeds or slips. It is prized for its glandular-glistening thick 
foliage (whence the common name). The little flowers, 
which open in sunshine, are also interesting. 

Impatiens Sultani is a generally known con- 
servatory plant, making a charming pot subject for warm 




IMPATIENS— INSECTS 135 

greenhouse or a room. It is readily propagated from seed or 
cuttings, seed being preferable. Flowers bright pink - red. 
Of easy culture in a fairly moist atmosphere. Height about 
18 inches. 

Insects. For horticultural purposes, Insects 

might be grouped into three general classes : borers, or those 
which live inside the plant tissue ; chew- 
ing Insects which live on the outside of 
the plant; and the sucking Insects. 

As a general statement, it may be 
said that the digging out of borers is the 
only complete remedy. Sometimes an 
application of something to the body of 
the tree may keep them out, but it is al- Moth of one of the borers 
ways uncertain ; and it usually involves more work than to 
dig them out. All trees which are subject to borers (espe- 
cially apples, peaches and pears) should be examined at 
least twice every year. See Borers. 

The general run of chewing or biting Insects may be 
killed by the arsenical poisons. Such Insects are the com- 
mon types of worms and beetles which feed on foliage. The 
leading poison which is now used for this purpose is Paris 
green (which see). Hellebore and pyrethrum are useful 
when it is not advisable to use arsenical 
poisons. 

The sucking Insects include all the kinds 
of plant lice, the squash bug and all the 
scale Insects. These are dispatched by 
some material which kills by external appli- 
cation, especially material which has kero- 
sene or petroleum in it. The common ma- 
A beetle borer tcrial heretofore used for this purpose is 

kerosene and soap emulsion ; but it is now believed that the 
emulsion of kerosene and water is fully as efficient, and since 
machines have been perfected for automatically mixing it, it 
is a much more practicable remedy. See Kerosetie Emulsion. 




In the fighting of all Insects, sueeess depends upon tak- 
ing them in time. If something is known of the life history 
of the Insect, very much will be gained, for the operator 
^ ^^te ^ may be on hand as soon as the Insect is 

^S ^^HpS^ expected to appear. 

^S~M ^^ Insects on House Plants. — The most trouble- 

weevii -a chewing insect gQj^gQj.^^j^j^Qj^ lusocts with which the ama- 
teur is likely to meet in the window-garden or conserva- 
tory are the red spider, mite, mealy bug, aphis, and scale. 

The red spider is a very minute Insect with a reddish 
body. Its presence may be suspected whenever plants are 
growing in a warm and dry place. Usually it first appears 
on the under side of leaves, but it multiplies rapidly, and 
will soon not be so choice of position. It sucks the juices of 
the leaves, and they soon indicate the injury by a dull appear- 
ance, and also, in many cases, by small whitish or paler 
areas on the upper surfaces. The mite is of similar habits 
and size, but is of a pale color, with black on its back. 
It appears under the same conditions as the red spider. 
These pests are small, but are very serious if allowed 
to multiply unchecked. They should be looked after as 
soon as their presence is detected. 

The remedy is to arrange for keeping the air about the 
plants more moist, and giving drenchings of the foli- 
age with clear or soapy water. The latter is most effective. 
The soap used may be simply the common washing soap, or 
that sold at drug stores known as whale-oil soap. In fight- 
ing them, care must be used not to keep the soil soaked 
with water, or it will check the plants in vigor and only add 
to the strength of the enemy. Even florists sometimes get 
into just such a predicament. Flagging and extreme varia- 
tions in dryness and humidity of the air, checking the vigor 
of plants, favor the appearance and presence of the red 
spider quite as much as extreme and continued dryness of 
the air. 

The aphides or plant lice are readily discernable when 



INSECTS 137 

they appear on plants, as they are sure to do under nearly all 
conditions. They are small, have elongated, succulent bodies, 
move about slowly and awkwardly, on rather long, hairlike 
legs, and are most commonly of a pale green color, though 
often brown or reddish, and sometimes of other shades. 
Fumigation of the plants in a closed box with burning 
tobacco stems will kill them. Latterly florists evaporate a 
liquid extract of tobacco (which is sold by dealers in 
florists' supplies) by dropping a hot iron into a pan of it. A 
tea made by soaking tobacco stems in water for a few hours, 
and applied with a syringe, is effective, and a safe rem- 
edy in inexperienced hands. A tablespoonful of tobacco 
sheep-dip, or extract of tobacco, to a couple of gallons of 
water, also makes an effective syringing or dipping solution. 
As mentioned above, we should use care, especially in the 
winter time, when the soil often dries out slowly, to avoid 
soaking it when already wet or sufficiently moist. 

Mealy bug has a small, flat, tortoise -shaped body, 
from about one -sixteenth to one -eighth of an inch long. 
The Insects collect in masses in the axils of the 
leaves. They are covered with a white mealy or 
cottony substance, and are readily recognized, 
although persons unfamiliar with their appearance 
have sometimes mistaken them for bits of down 
or cotton lodged upon the foliage or in the axils 
of the leaves. The young are small, and likely 
to escape observation unless one looks closely. 
They are flat, of a creamy or pinkish tint, and lie 
close to the surface of the leaves, especially on the 
under surface. Coleus and bouvardias are among 
the plants upon which mealy bugs are most often 

^ ^1 /^ • ^ ^u -1 4. % xu • • 0"e of t^e kind 

found. Owing to the oily nature of their covering, which sucks its food 
it is difficult to wet their bodies with any ordinary liquid that 
may be applied for the purpose of destroying them. Fir-tree 
oil is one of the most effective remedies for them. This liquid 
is rather expensive, but for a small collection a gallon can will 





138 amateur's practical garden -book 

last for a long time. It is also effective against other In- 
sects. For mealy bugs, two tablespoonfuls of the oil to one 
pint of water will make an effective dipping or spraying so- 
lution. Soft or rain-water should be used, and tin, wooden, 
or earthenware vessels. Galvanized iron vessels are to be 
avoided. Apply forcibly with a syringe or atomizer, prefer- 
ably in the evening. If effective, the mealy bug 
will turn buff- color. For other Insects, except for 
the scale, mentioned below, the solution will not 
need to be more than half or a fourth so strong. 

The codlin-moth , /. i i , , i i 

Where there are only a few mealy bugs, the plant 
may be gone over with a soft brush and the Insects 
crushed. 

Scales are most commonly of a brown or whitish 
color, flat or tortoise-shaped, and easily seen. They adhere 
closely by the under surface of their bodies to the stems, 
branches, and foliage of woody plants. The mature Insect 
is stationary, and its body at length becomes a shell contain- 
ing hundreds of eggs. These hatch, and the young emerge 
from the shell, crawl about and settle, to develop into the fa- 
miliar form. A strong solution of fir-tree oil, like that used for 
mealybugs, is a good remedy. A strong solution of whale-oil 
soap, made by adding an ounce or more of the soap to three 
gallons of water, even more if necessary, is also useful in 
combating them. After dipping or syringing the plants 
they may be allowed to stand over night, when they should 
be rinsed off with clear water. Applications may need re- 
peating every three or four days until the Insects are gotten 
rid of. It is difficult, for a time, to tell when they are dead. 
If killed, the bodies will fall off easily, and in the case of the 
• soft-shelled species shrivel up somewhat after a time. 
Kerosene and water emulsion (see Kerosene) will kill them. 
Insecticide. A substance which will kill insects. 
Insecticides are of two general classes — those that kill by 
contact (see Kerosene) , and those that poison the insect (see 
Paris Green and Hellebore) . 



IRIS— KALE 139 

Iris. Many handsome perennials, of which the 
Blue Flag is familiar to every old-fashioned garden. Most 
Irises thrive best in a rather moist soil, and some of them 
may be colonized in the water in margins of ponds. Gar- ' 
deners usually divide them into two sections — the tuberous - 
rooted or rhizomatous, and -the bulbous. A third division — 
the fibrous-rooted — is sometimes made. The common and 
most serviceable species belong to the tuberous -rooted sec- 
tion. Here belongs the beautiful and varied Japanese 
Iris, Iris Jcevigata (or /. Kcempferi), which is among the 
most deserving of all hardy perennials. Most of these Irises 
need no special care. They are propagated by division of 
the rootstocks. Plant the pieces 1 foot apart if a mass 
effect is desired. When the plants begin to fail, dig them 
up, divide the roots, discard the old parts and grow a new 
stock, as before. I. Susiana, of this section, is one of the 
oddest of Irises, but it is not quite hardy in the North. Of 
the bulbous section, most species are not hardy in the 
North. The bulbs should be taken up and replanted every 
two or three years. The Persian and Spanish Irises belong 
here. The bulbs give rise to but a single stem. 

Kale. A low -growing, spreading plant be- 
longing to the cabbage family and extensively used for 
winter and spring greens. The same culture as given to late 
cabbage is suitable. At the approach of severe freezing 
weather a slight protection is given in the North. The 
leaves remain green through the winter and may be gathered 
from under the snow at a time when material for greens is 
scarce. Some of the Kales are very ornamental because of 
their blue and purple curled foliage. The Scotch Curled is 
the most popular variety. Kales are extensively grown at 
Norfolk, Va., and southward, and shipped north in winter. 
Let the plants stand 18 to 30 inches apart. Young cabbage 
plants are sometimes used as Kale. See Collards. Bore- 
cole is a kind of Kale. Sea Kale is a wholly different vege- 
table (which see). 



140 amateur's practical garden -book 

Kerosene is fatal to insects. It is likely to 

injure plants if applied full strength, although if applied in 
full sunlight (so that evaporation takes place rapidly) it may 
do no harm. It is safest to apply it in dilution. Of late, 
there are pumps which mix or emulsify Kerosene and water 
in definite proportions, and this mixture (in the proportion 
of ^ or ^ Kerosene) is fatal to insects and usually harmless to 
plants. The standard Kerosene emulsion is with soap, but 
the perfection of mechanical devices for emulsifying it with 
water is probably destined to supplant the soap emulsion. 

Kerosene Emulsion. — Hard soap, X pound ; boiling soft 
water, 1 gallon ; Kerosene, 2 gallons. Dissolve the soap in the 
water, add the Kerosene, and churn with a pump for 5 to 10 
minutes. Dilute 10 to 25 times before applying. Use strong 
emulsion, diluted four times in winter, for all scale insects. 
For insects which suck, as plant-lice, mealybugs, red spider, 
thrips, bark-lice or scale. Cabbage-worms, currant-worms, 
and all insects which have soft bodies can also be success- 
fully treated. 

Kohlrabi. This vegetable looks like a leafy 

turnip growing above ground. If used when small (2 to 3 

i^ .. inches in diam.), and not allowed to become 

,l|i.^f IP^^l hard and tough, it is of superior quality. It 

.'^/^A^' l^^' should be more generally grown. The culture 

^""^^^ is very simple. A succession of sowings should 

be made from early spring until the middle of 

summer, in drills 18 inches to 2 feet apart^ 

thinning the young plants to 6 or 8 inches in 

^'■'the rows. It matures as quickly as turnips. 

One ounce of seed to 100 feet of drill. 

Lantana is a popular greenhouse 

pot-plant, and is occasionally seen in window- 

Lantana gardens, being grown for the profusion of its 

orange -red, heliotrope -shaped flowers. In the South, and 

sometimes in the North, it is planted out for the summer. 




LANTANA— LAWNS 141 

It is very easy to grow, and also to propagate by means of 
cuttings. Although the flowers of the common species are 
ill -scented, the profusion of bloom makes it desirable. 

Larkspur. Delphinium. The Larkspurs are 

among the very best hardy plants, being free-flowering and 
having a good habit. They should be in every mixed 
border, particularly the perennial kinds. The tall flower - 
spikes, showing above the cut foliage, give the plant a 
striking effect. The flowers are in shades of blue in most 
varieties. The plants are propagated by division of root or 
from seed. The latter method will give good results, although 
the resulting plants are not likely to be the same variety 
as the seed plant. 

As winter approaches, a covering of coarse litter should 
be thrown over the crowns of the perennial kinds. The 
plants will come into bloom in late June and continue for a 
long season. Plants should be set 3 to 5 feet apart if in rows, 
but they are seen to better advantage when mixed with other 
border plants. Height of plants from 3 to 5 feet. 

The annual Larkspur may be grown from seed sown in 
heat and transplanted to the ground in May ; or seed may 
be sown where the plants are wanted and the seedlings 
thinned to 1 foot. These seedlings will bloom in June, and 
continue through the summer. Plants grow from 8 to 18 
inches high. 

Lathyrus. See Pea, Everlasting ; also, Stveet 
Pea. 

Lawns. In order to have a good Lawn, two 

things are essential : first, a pleasing surface or contour; 
second, a dense, firm sod. 

Inasmuch as the Lawn is, or should be, a permanent 
thing, it is necessary that the greatest care be exercised to 
grade the land and to thoroughly prepare it before any 
seeds are sown. About a new building the filling should be 
allowed to settle, so that the finished surface will slope 




142 amateur's practical garden -book 

gradually away from the foundations and the steps. If the 
land is very hard clay, or if the place is rather low, it is 
always well to lay tile under-drains at frequent intervals." 
Everything should be done to cause the land to be deep 
and loose, so that the grass roots will run far into the soil 
and not be pressed for lack of moisture in a dry time. If 
the land has not had applications Of manure in 
recent years, it is well to plow in, or to spade 
in, a liberal quantity of well -rotted litter from 
the barnyard. Work this into the soil as deeply 
as possible. If the hardpan is rather high, it is 
well to subsoil the area or to trench it (that is, 
It is fun to make a garden to spadc it up two or three spadcs deep ) . If the 
land is apparently not fertile in plant-food, it is well to 
add a dressing of some commercial fertilizer to the surface 
when the grass seed is sown. This will start the grass 
quickly and allow it to get a foothold before the severe 
weather of midsummer comes. 

The kind of grass seed to sow will depend upon the re- 
gion and also upon the personal tastes of the owner. The 
one standard Lawn grass is June grass or blue grass {Poa 
pratensis). The seeds of this grass are sold in 
the hulls, and therefore the bushel weighs only 
fourteen pounds. Not less than two and one- 
half to three bushels should be sown to the acre. 
In the southern states, June grass will not hold, 
and Bermuda grass is used, being sown about as 
thick as recommended for the June grass. 
There are various prepared Lawn grass 
mixtures which are excellent, but the June C^ 
grass alone will give a very excellent Lawn 
in a short time. Whether one shall sow 
white clover in his Lawn depends mostly 
upon his personal taste. If he likes the CF 
white clover, it is well to put in a quart or 
two of seed to the acre, sowing it separately 






LAWNS 143. 

from the June grass in order to get an even distribution. 
Some persons like to see the white clover in certain parts 
of the Lawn. It thrives very well where the land is rather 
moist. In parts of the East, Rhode Island bent grass is 
used for lawns. 

The grass seed should be sown in the 
cool of the year. It may be sown in Sep- 
tember and thereby become established be- 
fore winter ; or it may be 
sown very early in the 
spring. ' In newly made Lawns, it is a 
good plan to grade the area thoroughly 
in the fall, allowing it to settle in the 
winter; and then, if the surface remains 

A lawn, with planting on the sides ^ j.i j «„ ^^^ ^-P +V.^ 

even, to sow the grass seed on one or the 
latest snows in spring. By sowing it on the snow, one can 
see that it is distributed evenly ; and when the snow 
melts, the seed is carried into the land and does not need 
covering. It is well to sow three or four quarts per acre 
of timothy seed, for the timothy germinates very quickly, 
and makes a green area the first season, but is killed out 
as soon as the June grass gains a foothold. Timothy 
will not stand the continued cutting, whereas the June 
grass will. The timothy, therefore, serves as a temporary 
covering to the land, indicating where the borders are, 
and thereby outlining the area for the Lawn mower to 
cut. The timothy seed should be sown separately from the 
June grass in order to insure even distribution. On hard 
lands it is well to sow two or three quarts per acre of crim- 
son clover seed. The long roots of this plant tend to improve 
the physical condition of the soil ; and when they decay, 
they leave nitrogen in the soil for the grass to use. Since 
crimson clover is an annual plant, it will not do any per- 
manent mischief in the Lawn. 

The first season the weeds will probably come up thickly, 
especially if the land is rich. These weeds should not 



144 amateur's practical garden -book 

be pulled, for whenever one is pulled out of the ground, 
many grass plants are rooted up and the surface is made 
uneven. The only way in which to keep down weeds is to 
mow them frequently with a Lawn mower. They will not 
appear in any great numbers the second year, unless there 
should be some perennial weeds, like dandelion or dock; and 
these may be pulled out the first fall or the following spring. 
It is rare that one secures a perfectly good and uniform 
sod from one sowing of seed ; especially is this true if the 
soil varies in different parts of the area. If the surface 
contour is satisfactory, it is unwise to dig up the areas 
on which the seed has not caught. It is best to rake them 
over with a steel rake in fall or spring, sowing on a little 
commercial fertilizer rather rich in nitrogen, and sow more 
seed. Nearly every Lawn will need patching in this way 
from year to year. If the Lawn is attended to in fall and 
spring by sowing grass seed, the weeds will rarely do seri- 
ous mischief. When weeds are troublesome on the Lawn, 
it means that there is not sufficient grass, and every 
effort should be made to get more grass. Therefore, when 
the perennial weeds are pulled out, sow more grass seed. 
When narrow -leaved plantain bothers, it is an indication 
that the land is too poor and dry for grass. 
In such cases, the land usually lacks humus 
or vegetable matter ; and in various severe 
incursions of the plantain, it may be neces- 
sary to spade up the weedy areas and to work 
rotted manure into the soil. Usually, how- 
ever, the plantain can be killed out by en- 
riching the soil and sowing more grass seed. 
„„,^„ The common practice of sprinkling Lawns is 

/^X^'^'p'^"'' nearly always pernicious, since the water is not 
|l^p=^^"^ supplied in sufficient amount to wet down very far, 
JujTI^ and the grass tends to make surface roots. When the 

/-. ' .„ watering is omitted the plants suffer. The more a 

A picturesque nil ° ^ 

on the lawn Lawu is Sprinkled, the more the grass depends upon 




LAWNS 145 

the sprinkling. If it is necessary to water the Lawn, the 
water should be allowed to run directly from the hose until 
the surface area is completely soaked. It is best to do this 
at nightfall. When the water is applied by means of a 
sprinkler, a large part of it evaporates and does no good to 
the ground. The fundamental treatment of the Lawn is to 
have the land so deep and porous that the grass roots strike 
deep into the soil and do not need the surface water. A 
Lawn which is well made will need watering only in unusu- 
ally dry times. 

Mow the Lawn frequently when it is growing rapidly, 
— in spring and early summer. In the fall mow less 
frequently, and let it go into the winter with a long coat 
of grass. If the Lawn is mown as often as is needed, 
it will not be necessary to rake off the trimmings. In fall, 
top-dress the Lawn with commercial fertilizer at the rate of 
500 pounds to the acre. If the Lawn has not been raked 
clean of all the trimmings and decayed refuse which covers 
the surface of the ground, it is not necessary to dress it 
with stable manure ; for manure is unsightly, unsavory, and 
often brings in weeds. Many persons make the mistake of 
raking the Lawn clean in late fall. 

Closely associated with the making of the Lawn is the 
general arrangement of the planting. It is the common fault 
to scatter the planting. Much better effects are secured by- 
massing or grouping the planting. See Borders and Floicer 
Beds. Particularly along the boundaries and about the 
foundations of buildings, the shrubbery and other plants may 
be massed to excellent effect. In large places there should 
be more or less mass planting along the walks and drives. 
In the curves and retreats of these plantings one will find 
many pleasant corners ; and here the children may have 
their play-houses and their pets. A little brook winding 
across a corner or along one side of a Lawn may make a 
pleasant picture if it is allowed to take on a half-wild 
character. 



146 amateur's practical garden -book 




A layer 



Layers are parts (usually stems) of plants laid 
down on the earth while still attached to the parent, with 
the expectation that they will take root and can then be 
separated as independent plants. All 
vine-like plants can be propagated read- 
ily by means of Layers; so can most soft- 
wooded plants, as willows, maples, cur- 
rants, etc. It is usual to put down the 
branches in the fall. In a year they 
should be ready to be severed 
from the parent. They may also 
be made in spring, before growth 
starts. See that the layered part 
rests in moist earth. Usually roots 

arise more freely if the shoot is cracked or notched at 
Ly- the buried point. The Layer may be held down by a 
forked stick ("pegged down"), or 
by a stone or clod. See that the 
shoot does not throw up suckers 
behind the layered part. 

Leek. This belongs to the onion family, and is 

used mostly as flavoring for soups. Well grown Leeks have 
a very agreeable and not very strong onion flavor. Leek is of 
the easiest culture, and is usually grown as a second crop, to 
follow beets, early peas, and other early stuff. The seed 
should be sown in a seed-bed in April or early May and 
the seedlings planted out in the garden in July, in rows 2 
feet apart, the plants being 6 inches apart in the rows. The 
plants should be set deep if the neck or lower part of the 
leaves is to be used in a blanched condition. The soil may 
be drawn towards the plants in hoeing, to further the 
blanching. Being very hardy, the plants may be dug in 
late fall, and stored in the same manner as celery, in 
trenches or in a cool root-cellar. One ounce of seed to 100 
feet of drill. 



Several layers from one vine 



LETTUCE— LILY 147 

Lettuce is probably the most extensively grown 
salad vegetable. It is now in demand, and is procurable, every 
month in the year. The winter and early spring crops are 
grown in forcing-houses and coldframes, but a supply from 
the garden may be had from April to November, by the use 
of a cheap frame in which to grow the first and last crops, 
relying on a succession of sowings for the intermediate 
supply. Seed for the first crop may be sown in a coldframe 
in March, growing the crop thick and having many plants 
which are small and tender ; or, by thinning out to the dis- 
tance of 3 inches and allowing the plants to make a larger 
growth, the plants pulled up may be set in the open ground 
for the next crop. Sowings should be made in the garden 
from April to October, at short intervals. A . ^--, ^-^ 

moist location should be selected for the July /i.4^*^?'^^ 
and August sowings. The early and late sow- ^^^3* 
ings should be of some loose-growing variety, 
as they are in edible condition sooner than 
the cabbage or heading varieties. ^'^"' of heading lettuce 

The cabbage varieties are far superior to the loose - 
growing kinds for salads. To be grown to perfection, they 
should have very rich soil, frequent cultivation and an oc- 
casional stimulant, such as liquid manure or nitrate of soda. 
The Cos Lettuce is an upright -growing type much es- 
teemed in Europe, but less grown here. The leaves of the 
full grown plants are tied together, thus blanching the cen- 
ter, making it a desirable salad or garnishing variety. It 
thrives best in summer. One ounce of seed will grow 3,000 
plants or sow 100 feet of drill. In the garden, plants may 
stand 6 inches apart in the rows, and the rows may be as 
close together as the system of tillage will allow. 

Lily. Bulbous plants of many kinds. It has 
been said of this family of plants that it has no "poor 
relations," each of them being perfect in itself. Many of 
the choicest kinds are comparatively unknown, although 




148 amateur's practical garden -book 

easy to cultivate. In fact, all of the Lilies may be grown 
with comparative ease. A light, rich, well-drained soil, 
mellow to the depth of at least 1 foot, a handful of sand 
under each bulb if the soil is inclined to be stiff, and 
planting so that the crown of the bulb will be at least 4 
inches below the surface, are the general requirements. 
One exception to the depth of planting is LiUum auratum^ 
or Golden-Banded Lily. This should be planted deeper — 
at least 8 inches below the surface — as the new bulbs form 
over the old one and soon bring the bulbs to the surface if 
they are not planted deep. 

While Lilies may have partial shade, they should never 
be planted near or under trees. The shade or protection of 
tall-growing, herbaceous plants is sufficient. In fact, the 
best results, both as to growth and effect, may be had by 
planting amongst low shrubbery or border plants. Most 
kinds are the better for remaining undisturbed for a number 
of years ; but if they are to be taken up and divided, or 
moved to other quarters, they should not be allowed to be- 
come dry. The small bulbs, or offsets, may be planted in 
the border, and if protected will grow to flowering 
size in two or three years. In taking up bulbs for 
division it is best to do so soon after the tops die 
after blooming. At least this should be done early 
in the fall, not later than October, giving the plants 
a chance to become established before freezing 
weather. A mulch of coarse litter or evergreen boughs 
should be placed over the bulbs after the ground 
has become frozen, to be gradually removed as the 
spring advances. 

As pot-plants some Lilies are very satisfactory, 
Easter Lily especially those that may be forced into bloom through 
the winter. The best kinds for this purpose are L. Rarrisii 
(Easter Lily), L. longiflorum, and L. candidiim. Others 
may be forced with success, but these are the ones most 
generally used. The winter culture of these for forcing is 




LILY— LOBELIA 149 

the same as for Hyacinths (in pots), which see. The article 
on Bulbs gives directions for both outdoor and indoor 
growing Which are directly applicable to Lilies. 

Lily, Chinese Sacred. See N'a7X'issus. 

Lily-of -the- Valley. A perfect!}^ hardy little 
plant, bearing racemes of small white bell -shaped flowers 
in early spring. For ordinary cultivation, sods or mats of 
roots may be dug from any place in which the plant is 
colonized. Usually it thrives best in partial shade; and 
the leaves make an attractive mat on the north side of a 
building, or other shady place, in which grass will not 
grow. The plants will take care of themselves year after 
year. 

For forcing indoors, imported roots or "pips" are used, 
as the plants are grown for this particular purpose in parts 
of Europe. These roots may be planted in pots, and 
treated as recommended for winter-flowering bulbs, under 
Bulhs. Florists force them in greater heat, however, often 
giving them a bottom heat of 80° or 90°; but skill and 
experience are required in order to attain uniformly good 
results in this case. 

Line. A garden Line is one of the most con- 
venient things connected with garden operations. It is 
always w^anted when long rows of seed are to be 
E, sown, and it is also necessary in laying out w^alks 
or drives. A very simple, yet handy, holder for a 
line is shown on the margin. The pin is driven in 
the soil at the starting point, and the line is un- 
wound as the operator walks towards the end of 
the row. A line should be 100 
.— feet long for common garden 

A garden Line Operations. 

Lobelia. Some of these are well-known gar- 
den plants, being used very freely as edging for ribbon 
beds or basket plants. They require a loose, rich soil, and 




150 amateur's practical garden -book 

some stimulant when in full flower. The flowers continue 
through a long season. They propagate freely from seed. 
Lohelia Erinus, in blue, 6 inches high, is one of the most 
popular of all annual edging plants. In Europe various 
perennial Lobelias are popular, but they are seldom seen in 
American gardens. 

London Purple. Discussed under Paris Green. 

Love-Lies-Bleeding. See Amarantus. 

Manure adds plant-food to the soil, and it also 

improves the texture or physical condition of the soil. This 
latter effect is often its greatest value. If one wants mere 
plant-food alone, he may often do better to add it in some 
more concentrated form. See Fertilizers. Manure, when 
thoroughly incorporated with the soil, makes the ground 
congenial for the plant. It is important, in garden opera- 
tions, that the Manure be rotted or composted, or "short" 
or "fine," as the gardeners say. It then incorporates readily 
with the soil and quickly gives up its fertility. Manure is 
composted by letting it decay in piles. The compost pile 
should be flat on top, so that it will catch the rains, and 3 
to 5 feet high. 

The most desirable Manure for the garden and for house 
plants is probably old cow Manure. It does not burn or lose 
its strength. It may be kept for a number of years if piled 
under shelter, becoming more available each year. It mixes 
well with soil and leaf- mold. When once rotted, this manure 
is very lasting and easily assimilated by plants. Horse 
Manure is very likely to become overheated, and to lose its 
value ; and it is too loose and dry for many purposes. Pig 
Manure, unless well composted with soil or refuse, is usually 
too heavy and rich. Sheep Manure is at its best when used 
in a liquid form, although it is most excellent to mix with 
soil to loosen it. 

All garden refuse, such as vines, leaves, decaying vege- 
tables, will make Manure if composted with soil; and if the 



MANURE — MIGNONETTE 151 

wash water is thrown on the compost pile much fertility will 
be added. Wood ashes from stoves, the chip dirt from the 
woodshed — in fact, almost any substance that will decay — 
will furnish plant-food, and should be added to the compost 
pile. This pile should be turned often, to mix the material. 
When practicable, it is best to apply Manure in the fall, 
as it then has time to become incorporated with the soil be- 
fore spring. Beds which are to be used for flowers next year 
may be dressed with Manure in the fall and deeply spaded, 
leaving the surface rough and loose. It is well to be care- 
ful that the Manure does not contain weed seeds. 

Marigold. The Marigolds of the old-fashioned 

gardens are still among the best of plants for fall color. 
They are hardy annuals of the easiest culture, and are always 
certain of giving strong and excellent results. They have 
been much improved of late years. The old-fashioned 
African Marigolds grow 2 to 3 feet high, and they are use- 
ful for scattering in mixed borders or making large masses 
or displays of color in the remoter parts of the place. The 
French or dwarf Marigolds grow about 1 foot high and are 
more tufty in their habit. They are better adapted for edg- 
ings than for mass effects in the main parts of the grounds. 
All Marigolds may be sown where the plants are to stand, 
since the flowers are usually not wanted until late summer 
or early fall, at which time they usually give their best 
bloom. If they are wanted earlier, however, the seeds may 
be started in the house or hotbed. Tall varieties may be 
allowed to stand from 10 to 18 inches apart and the dwarfs 
at somewhat less distances. 

Matthiola will be fouud under StocJiS. 

Mignonette. Probably no flower is more gen- 
erally grown for its fragrance than this. The Mignonette 
needs a cool soil, only moderately rich, shade part of the 
day, and careful attention to cutting the flower- stalks before 
the seeds are ripe- If a sowing be made in late April, fol- 



152 amateur's practical garden -book 

lowed by a second sowing in early July, the season may be 
extended until severe frosts. There are few flowers that 
will prove as disappointing if the treatment it needs is 
omitted. Height 1 to 2 feet. Treated as a half-hardy an- 
nual. It can be sown in pots late in summer and had in the 
house in winter. 

Moon-Flowers are species of Morning- Glories 

that open their flowers at night. A well -grown plant 
trained over a porch trellis, or allowed to grow at random 
over a low tree or shrub, is a striking object when in full 
flower at dusk or through a moonlit evening. In the south- 
ern states the Moon- Flower is a perennial, but even w^hen 
well protected does not survive the winters in the North. 
Cuttings may be made before danger of frost and wintered 
in the house, or the plants may be grown from seed sown in 
January or February. Cuttings usually give best results in 
the northern states, as the seasons are not long enough for 
seed plants to give good bloom. Seeds should be scalded or 
filed just before sowing. The true Moon-Flower is 
Ipomoea Bona- Nox, white -fLowered ; but there are other 
kinds. This grows 20 to 30 feet where the seasons 
long enough. 

Morning-Glory is perhaps the most pop- 
ular of all twining herbs, because of the ease with 
which it may be grown, the quickness with which 
it covers the object, and the quantities of bright, 
cheerful flowers it bears. Many of the kinds — in 
fact all that are generally known — may be readily 
Mornmg-Giories g^owu from sccd, floworiug early in the summer. 
Tender annuals. Give rich soil and plenty of water. The 
beautiful cypress vine belongs to this group. It requires the 
same treatment as the Morning- Glory, but the seeds should 
be scalded just previous to sowing. 

Dwarf Morning- Glories ( Convolvulus tricolor). They come 
into flower much sooner than the tall climbing varieties, 




MORNING-GLORY— MULCH 153 

and are covered with flowers through a long season. They 
may be used with fine effect in vases or large hanging 
baskets. Give a full sunny exposure. May thrive on soil 
that is not very rich. They grow 1 foot high. Half-hardy 
annuals. 

Mulberry. Both for fruit aud ornament the 
Mulberry should be more generally planted. Even if the 
fruit is not to the taste, the tree is naturally open-cen- 
tered and round-headed, and is an interesting subject; some 
of the varieties have finely cut leaves. The fruits are in 
great demand by the birds, and after they begin to ripen the 
strawberry beds and cherry trees are free from robins and 
other fruit-eating birds. For this reason alone they are a 
valuable tree for the fruit-grower. Trees may be pur- 
chased cheaper than one can propagate them. 

If planted in orchard form, place them 25 to 30 feet 
apart. About the borders of a place they can go closer. 
The Russian varieties are often planted for windbreaks, for 
they are very hardy and thrive under the greatest neglect ; 
and for this purpose they may be planted 8 to 20 feet 
apart. The Russians make excellent screens. They stand 
clipping well. New American, Trowbridge and Thorburn 
are leading kinds of fruit -bearing Mulberries for the North. 
The true Downing is not hardy in the northern states ; but 
New American is often sold under this name. Mulberries 
thrive in any good soil, and need no special treatment. 

Mulch is used both in protecting plants from 
the severe freezing of winter and the severe drought of 
summer. The same material may be used in either case, 
although it is now considered best to make an earth Mulch 
to prevent evaporation and retain the moisture through the 
dry season. This earth Mulch is made by breaking the 
crust of the soil and leaving it in fine particles. This may 
be done with a horse cultivator, a hoe or a rake. In fact, 
any tool which leaves the top of the soil loose will be in- 
strumental in preventing evaporation of soil water. See 



154 amateur's practical garden -book 

Tillage. The Mulching of the ground around blackberries, 
currants gooseberries or raspberries with straw or hay is 
often practiced to keep the fruits clean ; and the winter 
Mulch of strawberry beds is used between the rows for the 
same purpose, as well as to retain moisture and to afford 
winter protection. Winter Mulch usually consists of leaves, 
straw, hay, rough manure, boughs of evergreens, or any 
coarse material that will protect the plants from severe 
freezing and the heaving caused by alternate freezing and 
thawing. This winter Mulch should be removed as spring 
advances, unless it is of such a character as to be 
worked into the soil to add fertility or to loosen heavy 
lands. Near the seaeoast salt hay is considered to be an 
ideal Mulch. The winter Mulch must not contain too strong 
or heav.y manures, or plants may be injured by the leaching. 
For flower borders and shrubbery, muck or peat makes a 
good winter Mulch. Ordinarily the Mulch may be placed on 
to the depth of 4 to 6 inches, and if it is of loose material it 
may be still deeper. If dry and loose, mice may nest in it 
and girdle the trees or bushes. Even perfectly hardy plants 
are benefited by a winter Mulch, because it improves the 
soil. Autumn leaves, as they drift into shrubberies, make 
an ideal Mulch ; it is not always necessary to remove these 
leaves. See Lawn. 

Mushroom. There is no science of Mush- 
room growing. Certain conditions have been found to give 
success, but it is not known why. These conditions may be 
imitated ever so closely and complete failure result. There 
are many "systems" advised, each system the result of 
somebody's success ; but one cannot be sure of success by 
following any one of them. Good results are frequently at- 
tained when all rules are broken. The following paragraphs 
are from "Farmers' Bulletin," No. 53 (by William Fal- 
coner), of the U. S. Dept. of Agriculture (March, 1897) : 

Mushrooms are a winter crop, coming in from Septem- 
ber till April or May — that is, the work of preparing the 




MUSHROOM 155 

manure begins in September and ends in February, and the 
packing of the crop begins in October or November and ends 
in May. Under extraordinary conditions the season may 
begin earlier and last longer, and, in fact, it may continue 
all summer. 

Mushrooms can be grown almost anywhere out of doors, 
and also indoors where there is a dry bottom in which to set 
the beds, where a uniform and moderate 
temperature can be maintained, and where 
the beds can be protected from wet over- 
head, and from winds, drought, and direct 
sunshine. Among the most desirable places 
in which to grow Mushrooms are barns, cel- 
lars, closed tunnels, sheds, pits, green- Mushroom 
houses, and regular Mushroom houses. Total 
darkness is not imperative, for Mushrooms grow well in 
open light if shaded from sunshine. The temperature and 
moisture are more apt to be equable in dark places than in 
open, light ones, and it is largely for this reason that 
Mushroom houses are kept dark. 

The best fertilizer for Mushrooms, so far as the writer's 
experience goes, is fresh horse manure. Get together a lot 
of this material (short and strawy) that has been well 
trampled and wetted in the stable. Throw it into a heap, 
wet it well if it is at all dry, and let it heat. When it begins 
to steam turn it over, shake it well so as to mix thoroughly 
and evenly, and then tramp it down solid. After this let it 
stand till it again gets quite warm, then turn, shake, trample 
as before, and add water freely if it is getting dry. Repeat 
this turning, moistening and trampling as often as it is 
needful to keep the manure from "burning." If it gets in- 
tensely hot, spread it out to cool, after which again throw it 
together. After being turned in this way several times, and 
the heat in it is not apt to rise above 130° F., it should be 
ready to make up in the beds. By adding to the manure at the 
second or third turning one -fourth or one -fifth of its bulk of 



156 amateur's practical garden -book 

loam, the tendency to intense heating is lessened and its 
usefulness not at all impaired. Some growers prefer short 
manure exclusively, that is, the horse droppings, while others 
like a good deal of straw mixed in with this. The writer's 
experience, however, is that, if properly prepared, it matters 
little which is used. 

Ordinarily the beds are only 8 to 10 inches deep ; that is, 
they are faced with 10- inch- wide hemlock boards, and are 
only the depth of this board. In such beds put a layer of 
fresh, moist, hot manure, and trample it down firm until it 
constitutes half the depth of the bed ; then fill up with the 
prepared manure, which should be rather cool (100° to 115° 
F.) when used, and pack all firmly. If desired, the beds can 
be made up entirely of the prepared manure. Shelf beds are 
usually 9 inches deep; that is, the shelf is bottomed with 
1-inch boards and faced with 10-inch-wide boards. This al- 
lows about 8 inches for manure, and 1 inch rising to 2 inches 
of loam on top. In filling the shelf beds the bottom half may 
be of fresh, moist or wettish, hot manure, packed down solid, 
and the top half of rather cool prepared manure, or it may 
be made up of all prepared manure. As the shelf beds can 
not be trodden and can not be beaten very firm with the back 
of the fork, a brick is used in addition to the fork. 

The beds should be spawned after the heat in them has 
fallen below 100° F. The writer considers 90° F. about the 
best temperature for spawning. If the beds have been 
covered with hay, straw, litter or mats, these should be 
removed. Break each brick into twelve or fifteen pieces. 
The rows should be, say, 1 foot apart, the first one being 6 
inches from the edge, and the pieces should be 9 inches 
apart in the row. Commencing with the first row, lift up 
each piece, raise 2 to 3 inches of the manure with the 
hand, and into this hole place the piece, covering over 
tightly with the manure. When the entire bed is spawned 
pack the surface all over. It is well to cover the beds 
again with straw, hay or mats, to keep the surface equally 



MUSHROOM— MUSKMELON 157 

moist. The flake spawn is planted in the same way as the 
brick spawn, only not quite so deep. 

At the end of eight or nine days the mulching should be 
removed and the beds covered with a layer of good loam 2 
inches thick, so that the Mushrooms can come up in and 
through it. This gives them a firm hold, and to a large ex- 
tent improves their quality and texture. Any fair loam will 
do. That from an ordinary field, wayside or garden is 
generally used, and it answers admirably. There exists an 
idea that garden soil surfeited with old manure is unfit for 
Mushroom beds because it is apt to produce spurious fungi. 
This, however, is not the ease. In fact, it is the earth most 
commonly used. For molding the beds the loam should be 
rather fine, free and mellow, so that it can be easily and 
evenly spread and compacted firmly into the manure. 

If an even atmospheric temperature of from 55° to 60° F. 
can be maintained, and the house or cellar containing the 
Mushroom beds is kept close and free from drafts, the beds 
may be left uncovered, and should be watered if they become 
dry. But no matter where the beds are situated, it is well to 
lay some loose hay or straw or some old matting or carpet 
over them to keep them moist. The covering, however, 
should be removed just as soon as the young Mushrooms 
begin to appear above ground. If the atmosphere is dry, 
the pathways and walls should be sprinkled with water. 
The mulching should also be sprinkled, but not enough to 
cause the water to soak into the bed. However, if the bed 
should get dry, do not hesitate to water it. 

Muskmelon. The natural soil for melons is 
a light, sandy loam, well enriched with rotted manure, 
although good crops may be grown on soil naturally heavy 
if the hills are prepared as they should be. When only 
heavy soil is available, the dirt where the seeds are to be 
planted should be thoroughly pulverized and mixed with 
fine, well rotted manure. A sprinkling of leaf-mold or 
chip -dirt will help to lighten it. On this hill from ten ta 




158 amateur's practical garden -book 

fifteen seeds may he sown, thinning to four or five vines 
when danger of insects is over. The season may be ad- 
vanced and the damage from insects lessened by starting the 
plants in hotbeds. This may be done by using fresh sod, 
cut into 6- inch pieces, placing them grass-side down in the 
hotbed, sowing eight to ten seeds on each piece, and cover- 
ing with 2 inches of light soil. When all danger of frost is 
over, and the ground has become warm, these sods may be 
carefully lifted and set in the prepared hills. The plants 
usually grow without check, and fruit from two 
to four weeks ahead of those from seed planted 
directly in the hill. Old quart berry boxes are 
excellent to plant seeds in, as, when they are 
set in the ground, they very quickly decay, 
causing no restriction to the roots. Netted 
Gem, Hackensack, Emerald Gem, Montreal, Osage, and 
the Nutmeg Melon are popular varieties. One ounce of 
seed will plant about fifty hills. 
For insects, see Ciicumher. 

Musk Plant is an old-fashioned house plant 
of easy culture. Eaise a new stock from seeds as soon as 
the plants begin to fail. 

Narcissus. Hardy bulbous plants, includiDg 
the daffodils, jonquils, and other forms. The ease with 
which these plants may be grown, the beauty and fragrance 
of the flowers, as well as their lasting qualities when cut, 
would seem to make their culture in this country more 
popular than it is. Good bulbs planted in September or 
October are sure to bloom in April or May. The bulbs may 
remain in the ground for a number of years, although the 
best results will be had by digging them up every three 
years, and resetting in a different location. Select a moist, 
loamy soil, slightly protected from the sun. No manure 
should come directly in contact with the bulb, but if needed 
to hold moisture the manure may be spaded down to the 
depth of twelve inciies. 



NARCISSUS— NASTURTIUM 



159 




Narcissus may be forced into flower through the winter, 
as described under Bulhs. The most popular for winter 
bloom is the "Chinese Sacred Lily." This 
grows in water without any soil whatever. 
Secure a bowl or glass dish, about three times 
the size of the bulb; put some pretty stones 
in the bottom ; set in the bulb and build up 
around it with stones so as to hold it stiff when 
the leaves have grown ; tuck two or three small 
pieces of charcoal among the stones to keep 
the water sweet, then fill up the dish with 
water and add a little every few days, as it 
evaporates. Set the dish in a warm, light 

place. In about six weeks Narcissus 

the fragrant, fine white flow 

ers will fill the room with perfume. 

Nasturtiums {Tropceolums) are 
both dwarf and climbing. The Dwarf 
Nasturtiums make one of the most showy 
second-row plants for the border. The 
colors of the flowers have a wide range 
and the plants bloom profusely. It is 
not, however, the plant in flower that is 
the greatest consideration, but the flowers 
themselves as cut-flowers. No flower 
makes a finer display in vase or bowl 
than these rich colors, all harmonizing 
well and lighting up a room as very few 
of the common easily grown flowers do. 
The same maybe said of the tall -growing 
Nasturtiums, although the flowers of 
these form part of their effectiveness 
as screen vines. Few climbers make a 
more rapid growth, and none are better 
adapted to hide unsightly objects in our 
yards or gardens. 




160 amateur's practical garden -book 




For a long season of flowers and a large growth of vine 
the seed should be sown late in March or early in April, 
in boxes or pots, the plants carried along until the first 
of May, and planted out where wanted. The 
dwarf varieties bloom more freely and the flowers 
are of better color in rather poor soils, while for 
rapid growth of vine a well enriched border would 
be the best. The dwarf varieties may be planted 
2 or 3 feet apart, and the tall ones as wanted to 
make a screen. The tall kinds grow 5 to 8 feet. 
All Nasturtiums are tender. 

Dwarf Nasturtium Nicotiana. TendcF annuals (or grown 

as annuals). They are fine plants for borders or 
pots, the tall -growing varieties making a very fine show 
when in flower, having pure white flowers with long, tubular 
necks, the season of bloom being from July to 
October. The seeds are very fine, and should be 
sown on the surface of the soil, in boxes or pots. 
When planted out they should be set from 2 to 5 
feet apart, according to kind. Some of the giant 
Nicotianas are excellent subjects for temporary 
screens ; so is tobacco, which is also a Nicotiana. 

Nicotiana affinis is one of the best of all garden 
flowers. Its long white flowers are fragrant at 
evening. They close in the hot sun. It is a half- 
hardy annual of easiest culture. Height 2 to 3 
feet. 

CEnothera. Evening Primrose. A very in- 
teresting group of plants, opening their flowers at evening. 
Many of them are fragrant and attract night insects, espe- 
cially the large moths, seldom seen until dusk. The opening 
of the flowers of the large -flowering varieties is a source of 
pleasure and surprise, as one flower follows another in open- 
ing, and in a large plant the late opening flowers seem to 
burst all at one time. The perennial species may be propa- 





CENOTHERA— OLEANDER 161 

gated by division or seed, the annuals by seed. Set the 
tall kinds 2 to 3 feet apart. Height 1 to 3 feet. All 
of easy culture. 

Okra. From the green pods of this vegetable 
is made the well-known Gumbo soup of the South, where the 
plant is more extensively grown than in the North. The pods 
are also used in their green state for stews, and are dried and 
used in winter, when they are nutritious, and 
form no little part of the diet in certain sections 
of the country. The seeds are very sensitive 
to cold and moisture, and should not be sown 
until the ground has become warm — the last 
week in May or the first of June being early 
enough in New York. The seed should be sown 
in a drill 1 inch deep, the plants thinned to ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^ 
stand 12 inches in the row. Give the same cul- 
ture as for corn. One ounce will sow 40 feet of drill. 
Dwarf varieties are best for the North. Green Density 
and Velvet are leading varieties. 

Oleander. While there are many named va- 
rieties of the Oleander, but two are often seen in general 
cultivation. These are the common red and white varie- 
ties. Both these, as well as the named varieties, are of 
easy management and well adapted to home culture, grow- 
ing in pots or tubs for several years without special care. 
Well -grown specimens are very effective as porch or lawn 
plants, or may be used to good advantage in mixed beds of 
tall-growing plants, plunging the pot or tub to the rim in the 
soil. The plants should be cut back after flowering. They 
should be rested in any out-of-the-way place through the 
winter. When brought out in the spring, they should be 
given sun and air in order to make a sturdy growth. Prop- 
agation is effected by using well -ripened wood for cut- 
tings, placed in a close frame; or the slips may be rooted in 
a bottle or can of water, care being taken to supply water as 
evaporation takes place. After being rooted, they may be 



162 amateur's practical garden-book 

potted, using soil with a large proportion of sand. Well 
established plants may be repotted in good loam and well 
rotted manure. 

Onions are grown from seeds (" black seed") 
for the main crop. They are also grown from sets (which 
are very small Onions, arrested in their development), from 
"tops" (which are bulblets produced in the place of flowers), 
and from multipliers or potato onions, which are compound 
bulbs. 

The extremely early crop of Onions is grown from sets, 
and the late or fall crop is grown from seed sown in April 
or early May. The sets may be saved from the crop har- 
vested the previous fall, saving no bulbs measuring over % 
of an inch in diameter, or, better, they may be pur- 
chased from the seedsman. These sets should be 
planted as early as possible in the spring, preferably 
on land that has been manured and trenched in the 
fall. Plant in rows 12 inches apart, the sets being 2 
or 3 inches in the row. Push the sets well down into 
the ground and cover with soil, firming them with the 
feet or a roller. In cultivating, the soil should be 
thrown towards the tops, as the white stems are 
usually sought as an indication of mildness. The 
crop will be in condition to use in from three to 
four weeks, and may be made to last until small 

Early Onions -, m ■.;•■.. 

seed Onions are to be had. Tops or multipliers 
may also be used for the early crop. 

In growing Onions from seed, it is only necessary to say 
that the seed should be in the ground very earjy in order 
that the bulbs make their growth before the extreme hot 
weather of August, when, for want of moisture and be- 
cause of the heat, the bulbs will ripen up while small. 
Early in April, in New York, if the ground is in condition, 
the seed should be sown thickly in drills from 12 to 16 inches 
apart, and the ground above the seeds well firmed. Good 
cultivation and constant weeding is the price of a good crop 




ONION— PALMS 163 

of Onions. In cultivating and hoeing, the soil should be 
kept away from the rows, not covering the growing bulbs, 
but allowing them to spread over the surface of the ground. 
When the crop is ready to be harvested, the bulbs may 
be pulled or cultivated up, left to dry in double rows for 
several days, the tops and roots taken off, and the bulbs 
stored in a dry place. Later in the season they may be 
allowed to freeze, covering with chaff or straw to hold them 
frozen, and kept until early spring; but this method is 
usually unsafe with beginners, and always so in a changeable 
climate. Onion seed should always be fresh when sown — 
preferably of the last year's crop. One ounce of Onion 
seed will sow 100 feet of drill. 

One of the recent methods of obtaining extra large bulbs 
from seed is to sow the seed in a hotbed in February or 
early March, and transplant to the open ground in April. 

The Danvers, Prizetaker, Globe and Wethersfield are 
favorite varieties, with the addition of White Queeu or 
Barletta for pickling. 

Oxalis. A number of hardy species of this 
are excellent plants for rockwork and edging. The green- 
house species are very showy, growing without extra care, 
and blooming freely through the late winter and spring 
months; these are mostly increased by bulbs, a few by divi- 
sion of the root. 0. violacea is one of the commonest of 
house -plants. Give a sunny window, for the flowers open 
only in sun or very bright light. The bulbous kinds are 
treated as recommended for Bulbs, except that the bulbs 
must not freeze. 

Palms. No more graceful plant for room 
decoration can be found than a well -grown specimen of 
some species of Palms. Most Palms are well adapted for 
this purpose when small, and as the growth is usually very 
slow, a plant may be used for many years. Again, the 
plants thrive better in partial shade. They may be grown 
in a sitting or drawing-room more satisfactorily than most 



164 amateur's practical garden -book 




house -plants. One of the frequent causes of failure in the 
culture of the Palm is the over -potting and subsequent over- 
watering. A Palm should not be repotted until the mass of 
roots fills the soil; then a pot only a size 
larger should be used. Use ample drain- 
age in the bottom to carry off excess of 
water. Although the plants need a moist 
soil, water standing at their roots proves 
injurious. A soil composed of well rotted 
sod, leaf -mold and a little sand will meet 
their requirements. Among the best p^j^^^^ 

Palms for house culture are Arecas, 

Cocos Weddelliana, Latania, Kentia, 
Chamaerops and Phcenix. Cycas may 
also be regarded as a Palm. 

The date Palm may be grown from 
seed of the common commercial date. 
Seed of the other varieties may be pur- 
chased from leading seedsmen, but, as 
the seed germinates only under favor- 
able conditions, and the Palm is a vexj 
slow-growing plant while young, the 
best plan is to purchase the plants from 
a dealer when wanted. When the 
plants become weak or diseased, take them to a florist for 
treatment and recuperation. 

Pandanus, or Screw Pine. The Pandanus 

utilis and P. VeitcJiii are exceedingly ornamental, and are 
well adapted to house culture. The singular habit of 
growth, bright, glossy leaves, and the ability to withstand 
the dust and shade of a dwelling room, make them a de- 
sirable addition to the house collection. They are propa- 
gated by the offsets or young plants that grow around the 
base of the trunk; or they may be increased by seed. If by 
the former method, the offsets should be cut off and set in 
sand, at a temperature of C5° or 70°. The cuttings root 




A table Palm 



PANDANUS— PARIS GREEN 165 

slowly and the plants for a time make a very slow growth. 
The general cultural treatment is that of palms, which see. 

Pansy is without doubt the most popular spring 
flower in cultivation. The strains of seed are many, each 
containing great possibilities. The culture is simple and 
the results are sure. Seed sown in August or September, in 
boxes or a frame, will make plants large enough to reset 
in November and bloom the following March ; or they may 
be left until March in open seed-beds before setting out. 
Also, if they are sown very thinly in the frames they may 
remain undisturbed through the winter, blooming very early 
the following spring. The frame 
should be protected by mats, boards 
or other covering through the severe 
cold, and as the sun gains strength, 
care should be taken to keep them 
from heaving by alternate thawing 
and freezing. Seed sown in boxes 
in January or February will make 
fine blooming plants by April, tak- 
ing the place of those blooming Pansies 
earlier. 

The requisites for satisfactory Pansy culture are rich, 
moist, cool soil, protection from the noonday sun, and atten- 
tion to keeping them from going to seed. As the ground 
becomes warm a mulch of leaf-mold or other light mate- 
rial should be spread over the bed to retain moisture 
and exclude heat. Spring and fall give the best bloom. 

Paris Green is the leading arsenical insecti- 
cide. It is usually applied in a water spray, at the rate of 
1 pound of the poison to 150 to 200 gallons of water. Add X 
pound of lime to prevent injury to foliage. Potatoes will 
usually stand a stronger mixture ; peaches and some other 
plants do not need one so strong. Make the Paris Green into 
a paste with water before adding it to the 200 gallons, that it 
may mix better. Paris Green may be added to Bordeaux 





166 amateur's practical garden -book 

mixture with excellent results, counting the Bordeaux as if 
it were so much water; in this ease it will not be neces- 
sary to add lime to the Paris Green. The Paris Green is 
used only for chewing insects, as worms and beetles. Lon- 
don purple is used in the same way. 

Parsley. The curled Parsley is used almost 

exclusively as a garnish for meats and salads, although the 

flavor in soups is fine. The seed is slow to germinate, and 

often the second or third sowing is made, thinking the first 

is a failure ; but usually after what would seem 

a long time the young plants will be seen. 

When sown in the open ground, it should be 

thinned to stand 3 or 4 inches in the row, the 

Parsley grown in a box rows being 10 to 12 inchcs apart. A few plants 

in a border will give a supply for a large family, 

and with a little protection will live over winter. Roots 

may be lifted in the fall, put into boxes or old cans, and 

grown in a sunny window for winter use. 

Parsnips are one of the vegetables that are 
the better for the winter's freeze, although they are of good 
quality if taken up after the fall frosts and packed in soil, 
sand or moss in the cellar. The seed, which must be not 
over one year old, should be sown as early as possible in 
well prepared soil, firmed with the feet or roller. As the 
seed germinates rather slowly the ground often becomes 
crusted or baked over the seeds, in which case it should be 
broken and fined with a garden rake. This operation often 
means the success of the crop. Radish or cabbage seeds 
may be sown with the Parsnip seed to mark the row and 
break the crust. One ounce of seed will sow 200 feet of 
drill. Thin to 6 inches apart in the row. 

Pea. Who does not long for the time when 
early Peas are fit to use ? And how many know the great 
difference in quality between the smooth and the wrinkled 
Peas? The first are a little the earliest to be planted and 



PEA— PEACH 167 

to become fit for use, and on that account should be 
planted in a small way. For the kitchen -garden the dwarf 
and half-dwarf varieties are the best, as the tall kinds will 
need brush or wire to support them, causing considerable 
trouble and labor and not being as neat in appearance. The 
tall varieties yield a larger crop than the dwarfs, but as the 
rows must be made from 3 to 5 feet apart, the dwarf ones, 
which are planted only 6 to 8 inches apart, will give as 
large a yield on the same area. Always plant double rows 
of the tall varieties: that is, two rows from 4 to 6 inches 
apart, with the brush or wire between, the double rows 
being from 3 to 5 feet apart, according to varieties. The 
dwarf varieties should be planted four rows in a block, each 
row being only 6 or 8 inches apart. The Peas on the two 
center rows may be picked from the outside. Leave a 
space of 2 feet and plant the same. At the time of the first 
planting only the smooth varieties should be sown, but by 
the middle of April in New York the ground will be warm 
and dry enough for the wrinkled sorts. A succession should 
be sown that will come to maturity one after the other, ex- 
tending the season six or eight weeks. If a further supply 
is wanted the early quick -maturing varieties may be sown 
in August, usually giving a fair crop of Peas in September 
and early October. In the hot weather of midsummer they 
often do not thrive so well. One quart of seed will plant 
about 100 feet of drill. 

Pea, Everlasting {Lathyrus latifolms) . These 
Peas do not have the colors or fragrance of the Sweet Pea, 
but are fine for planting against rocks, stumps, or fences. 
They bloom through a long season, and, being perfectly 
hardy, will live for years. Height 2 to 6 feet. Raised from 
seeds or from cuttings, usually the former. Keep the seed 
pods picked off to lengthen period of bloom. 

Pea, Sweet. See Sweet Pea. 

Peach. Given the proper exposure, Peaches 




168 amateur's practical garden -book 

may be fruited iu many sections where now it is thought 
impossible to have a crop. It is usually the practice of the 
amateur to set Peach trees in the shelter of some building, 
exposed on the south or east to the sun, and "in a pocket" 
as regards winds. This should be reversed, except in the 
close vicinity of large bodies of water. The fruit buds of 
Peaches will stand very cold weather when perfectly dor- 
mant, often as low as 12° or 18° below zero in New 
York; but if the buds once become swollen, comparatively 
light freezing will destroy the crop. Therefore, if the trees 
be set on elevations where a constant air drainage may be 
obtained, sheltered, if at all, on the south 
and east, from the warming influence of 
the sun, the buds will remain dormant 
until the ground becomes warm, and the 
chances of a failure will be lessened. This 
advice applies mostly to interior sections. 
A well drained, sandy loam or gravelly soil 
suits the Peach better than a heavy soil; but if the heavier 
soil is well drained, good crops may be obtained. 

Peaches are short-lived at best, and one should be satis- 
fied with three or four crops from each tree. They bear 
young, usually a partial crop the third year. If a crop may 
be had every other year until the trees are eight or ten 
years old, they will have well repaid the effort of cultivation. 
But they often bear twice this long. Young trees may be 
set every four or five years to replace older ones, thus 
having trees at a bearing age at all times on a small place. 
Trees should be set 14 to 18 feet apart each way. A good 
selection of varieties for home use would be Early York) 
Alexander, Hale Early, Mountain Rose, Early Crawford, 
Wheatland, Stump, Elberta, Stevens, Oldmixon, Late Craw- 
ford and Smock. 

Peach trees are always bought when they are one year 
old, that is, one year from the bud. For example, the bud 
is set in the fall of 1898. It remains dormant until the 



PEACH— PEAR 169 

spring of 1899, when it pushes into vigorous growth; and in 
the fall of 1899 the tree is ready for sale. Peach trees 
which are more than a year old are scarcely worth the 
buying. It is a common practice, when setting Peach trees, 
to prune them back to a whip, leaving a stub bearing not 
more than one bud where each branch is cut off. 

The three great enemies of the Peach are the borer, the 
yellows and the curculio. 

The borer is best handled by digging it out every spring 
and fall. Trees which are attacked by the borer have an 
exudation of gum about the crown. If the borers are dug 
out twice a year they will not get sufficient start to make 
the operation very laborious. It is the only sure way. 

The yellows is a communicable disease, the cause of 
which is not definitely known. It shows itself in the fruit 
ripening prematurely, with distinct red spots which extend 
through the flesh, and later by the throwing out of fine, 
branching, twiggy tufts along the main branches. The 
only treatment is to pull out the trees and burn them. 
Other trees may be set in the same places. 

For a discussion of curculio, see the remarks under 
Plum. 

Pear. No fruit plantation should be consid- 
ered complete without trees of various kinds of Pears, ripen- 
ing fruits from early in August till winter. The late varie- 
ties are generally good keepers, and extend the season into 
February, thus supplying fruit for six or seven months. 

As the Pear grows to per^ction on quince, the dwarf tree 
is peculiarly adapted to planting on small home grounds, 
and is often used as a boundary plant, or to serve the pur- 
pose of a screen. These dwarf trees should be set deep — 4 
to 6 inches below the union — to prevent the stock from 
growing. Dwarf trees may be set as near together as 10 
to 16 feet, while the standard or tall -growing Pears should 
be set 18 to 25 feet apart. Trees are planted when two or 
three years old. 




170 amateur's practical garden -book 

The Pear thrives on clay soil, if well underdrained, and 
for this reason may succeed in places where other fruits 
might fail. A good, steady growth should be maintained, 
but the use of nitrogenous manures should be avoided, as 
they tend to make a rank growth and invite attacks of Pear 
blight, which is the worst enemy of the Pear. 
For summer fruits : Osband's Summer, Bart- 
lett, Clapp and Manning Elizabeth are among 
the best. For autumn : Duchess, Flemish 
Beauty, Bosc, Louise Bonne, Seckel and 
Sheldon. For winter fruit : Anjou, Clairgeau, 
Lawrence and Winter Nelis are excellent. 
Kieffer is an excellent commercial fruit, but it 
is too poor to be given space in the home 
Bartiett Pears grouud cxcept as an Ornamental tree. 

Of the Pear blight, Duggar writes as follows : 
"Remedies, (a) The hiife and the saw.— With a dis- 
ease working as this does, it is very evident that there is 
no chance either for cure or prevention by means of spray- 
ing. The heroic treatment of the knife and saw must be 
adopted and vigorously pursued, as has been claimed from 
the beginning. The blackened leaves alone must not 
serve as signs of the diseased area, but one must examine 
carefully the branches and remove them 6 inches or more 
below the lowest discolorations. Often before cutting, 
pruners slice the bark downward to see where the injury 
ends. This should not be done; it is better to be sure that 
you are below the infected area, and run no such risk of 
infecting anew the tissues below. The cut surfaces of 
larger limbs and branches should be painted for protection 
against wound rots. -^ 

"(6) When to cut. — Cutting out diseased portions 
should be done whenever the disease is evident. This may 
check the injuries temporarily ; but it has been shown that 
much can be done in the autumn to prevent the establish- 
ment of the disease the following spring. It has long been 



PEAR BLIGHT — PELARGONIUM 171 

known that the disease may pass the winter in the "branches 
by a slow growth in the neighborhood of late infectious. 
Thorough work of eradication should especially be per- 
formed after the season of growth. Then cut out every 
diseased branch and burn, so that in the spring when the 
succulent growth begins again, there will be few places in 
which insects may come in contact with the bacterial 
exudations. 

"(c) Conditions favoring the disease. — The knife is our 
only hope of extermination; but there are undoubtedly con- 
ditions which favor the disease. In a succulent, rapidly 
growing tree the bacteria find more favorable conditions for 
their development than in one which grows slowly, yet with 
sufficient vigor. For this reason, too much nitrogenous 
manure is dangerous; and, for the same reason, a succu- 
lent growth induced by severe pruning should be avoided." 

Pelargoniums. Here belong the plants known 
as Geraniums — the most satisfactory of house-plants, and 
extensively used as bedding plants. No plants will give 
better returns in leaf and flower; and these features, added 
to the ease of propagation, make them general favorites. 
Cuttings of partially ripened wood root very easily, 
grow to blooming size in a short time, and, either 
planted out or grown in a pot, make fine decora- 
tions. The common or "Fish" Geraniums are 
much more satisfactory when not more than a 
year old. Take cuttings from the old plants at 
least once a year. In four or five months the 
young plants begin to bloom. Plants may be 
taken up from the garden and potted, but they Peiargunium, or 
rarely give as much satisfaction as young, vigorous 
subjects. Repot frequently until they are in 4- to 5- inch 
pots; then let them bloom. 

The show Pelargoniums are those commonly known as 
Lady Washington Geraniums. These have but one period 
of bloom, usually in April, but they make up in size and 




172 amateur's practical garden -book 

coloring. This section is more difficult to manage as a 
house plant than the common Geranium, needing more di- 
rect light to keep it stocky, and being troubled by insects. 
Still, all the trouble taken to grow them will be well repaid 
by the handsome blossoms. Take cuttings in late spring, 
after flowering, and blooming plants may be had the fol- 
lowing year. Good results are sometimes secured by keep- 
ing these plants two or three years. Cut back after each 
blooming season. 

For house culture the Geraniums need a rich, fibrous 
loam, with the addition of a little sand; good drainage is 
also an essential. 

Peony. The herbaceous Peony has long had 
a place in the garden, and is now in general use as an early 
flowering plant. It is perfectly hardy, and free from the 
many diseases and insects that attack so many fine plants. 
The single and semi -double varieties are very fine, the 
flowers becoming large as the plant becomes well estab- 
lished. The herbaceous section is readily increased by divis- 
ion. The tree Peonies are increased by grafting. They grow 
in some cases to the height of 3 or more feet, and are covered 
with large, very double flowers of rich colors. 
Height 2 to 3 feet. 

Peppers are tender while j^oung, although 
they will endure a heavy frost in the fall. Their 
culture is that recommended for eggplants. A small 
seedsman's packet of seed will be sufficient for a large 
number of plants, say two hundred. The large Bell 
Peppers are the mildest, and are used for making 
Bell Pepper " stuffod Pcppcrs " and other dishes. The small, hot 
Peppers are used for seasoning and sauces. 

Petunia. The improvement made in the size 
and markings of the Petunia has been marked of late. Now 
almost every shade of color may be found, aside from yellow. 
A bed of Petunias makes a mass of color equaled by few other 





PETUNIA— PLUM 173 

flowers. They also make very fine single plants for pots, 

baskets or window-boxes, blooming freely through the winter, 

and emitting a delicate fragrance. The single varieties 

grow freely from seed, but if plants of one 

special color are wanted cuttings should be ^ '^ lo^T' 

made. These cuttings root easily and '^^oom )f^»^3i^^':,^(M^lXj' 

early. Cuttings will have to be made of ^"^ "" ^^ "'" 

the double varieties to increase their number. 

For common Petunias, sow seeds where 

plants are to grow, in a warm, sunny place ; Petunia 

or, for earlier bloom, seeds may be started 

in the house. Thin to 8 to 12 inches apart. The season 

of bloom is cat short only by frost or other causes. 

Phlox. Both the perennial and the annual 

Phloxes are most valuable. Excepting the petunia, no plant 
will give the profusion of bloom with as little care as the 
annual Phlox {Phlox Drummondii). Masses of one color or 
of contrasting colors make very effective ribbon borders or 
edging beds. The perennial species are very showy, having 
almost as wide a range of color as the annuals. They grow 
to the height of 3 feet. They are most effective in the back 
row of a border. The perennials have been much improved 
of late. They are hardy. 

The annual Phlox is propagated by seed sown early in the 
spring in the border, or in March in boxes and transplanted. 
The perennial Phlox is increased by division of the roots, 
the flowers being larger and more highly colored by dividing 
at least every three years. The annual Phlox blooms early, 
and continues until late in the fall. The perennial blooms 
from July to frost. 

Pink. See Bianthus and Carnation! 

Plum. Of Plums there are three general or 
common types: first, the common Domestica or European 
Plum, which gives rise to all the older varieties, like Lom-- 
bard, Bradshaw, Green Gage, the Prunes, the Egg Plums, 



174 amateur's practical garden -book 

the Damsons, and the like ; second, the Japanese Plums, 
which have become popular within the last ten years, and 
which are adapted to a wider range of country than the 
Domesticas; third, the native Plums of several species or 
types, which are adapted to the plains, the middle and 
southern states, where the Domestica Plums do not thrive, 
and some kinds to the cold North. 

Wherever the Domestica and Japanese Plums can be 
grown, the native Plums are not destined to become popu- 
lar; but many of the natives are much hardier than others, 
and are therefore adapted to regions in which the Domestica 
and Japanese are not safe. Others of them are well adapted 
to the middle and southern states. The Domestica and 
Japanese Plums are considerably hardier than peaches, but 
not so hardy as the apple. The northern limit of their gen- 
eral cultivation is the southern peninsula of Michigan, cen- 
tral and southern Ontario, central New York and central 
New England. 

Plums thrive on a great variety of soils, but they do 
better, as a rule, on those which are rather heavy and have 
a considerable content of clay. In fact, many of the varie- 
ties will thrive on clay as hard as that upon which pears 
will grow. On the other hand, they often thrive well upon 
light, and even almost sandy soils. 

The trees are set when they are two and three years from 
the bud. It is preferable to have Plum trees on stocks of 
the same species, but it is not always possible to secure them 
at the nurseries. In the South, Plums are worked mostly on 
peach roots, and these make excellent trees where the 
climate is not too severe, and especially upon the lighter 
lands on which they are planted in the South. In the North 
the larger part of the Plum stocks are grown on the 
Myrobalan Plum roots. This Myrobalan is an Old World 
species of Plum, of smaller growth than the Domestica. 
This stock, therefore, tends to dwarf the tree, and it is 
also likely to throw up sprouts from the roots. Plum trees 



PLUM 175 

are set from 12 to 18 feet apart. Many growers like to set 
them 8 feet apart in rows, and have the rows from 16 to 20 
feet apart. 

Plums are pruned much the same as apples and 
pears. That is, the top is thinned out from year to year, 
and all superfluous branches and broken or diseased wood 
are removed. If the soil is very strong and the trees are 
close together, it may be well to head them in a little each 
year, especially those varieties which grow very strong 
and robust. 

The varieties of Plums are very 'numerous. Of the 
Domestica or European type, some of the best are Brad- 
shaw, Imperial Gage, Jefferson, Reine Claude, Coe Golden 
Drop, Quackenbos, Fellemburg, German Prune, Copper. 
The Lombard is the most cosmopolitan variety, and is 
always sure to give a crop, but the quality is not so good as 
that of the others mentioned. For 
culinary purposes, some of the Dam- 
sons, which are very small -fruited 
varieties, are excellent. Of Japanese 
Plums, the best so far tested for the 
North are Red June, Abundance, Bur- 
bank, Chabot and Satsuma. For a 
very early cherry-like Plum for home 
use, the Berger is excellent. Of the 
native Plums, the most cosmopolitan 
variety is Wild Goose. Excellent 

varieties are Weaver, Quaker, Forest Garden, Wayland, and 
others. 

There are four leading difficulties in the growing of Plums 
— leaf blight, fruit rot, black knot, and curculio. 

The leaf blight usually comes on about midsummer, the 
leaves becoming spotted and dropping off. The remedy for 
this trouble is to spray thoroughly with Bordeaux mixture, 
beginning soon after the fruits have set, and before the 
trouble begins to show. 




176 amateur's practical garden -book 

The fruit rot may be prevented by the same means — that 
is, by spraying with Bordeaux mixture. It is usually best 
to begin just after the fruits are well set. A very important 
consideration in the checking of this disease is to thin the 
fruit so that it does not hang in clusters. If one fruit touches 
another, the rot spreads from fruit to fruit in spite of the 
spraying. Some varieties, like Lombard and Abundance, 
are susceptible to this injury. 

The black knot is best kept in check by cutting out the 
knots whenever they can be seen, and burning them. As 
soon as the leaves drop, the orchard should be gone over 
and all knots taken out. Orchards which are thoroughly 
sprayed with Bordeaux mixture for the leaf blight and fruit- 
rot fungus are less liable to attacks of black knot. 

The cureulio, or the insect which is the parent of the 
worms in the fruit, is the inveterate enemy of the Plum and 
other stone fruits. The mature beetle lays the eggs in the 
fruits when they are very small, usually beginning its work 
about as soon as the flowers fall. These eggs soon hatch, and 
the little maggot bores into the fruit. Those fruits which 
are attacked whilst very young ordinarily fall from the tree, 
but those which are attacked when they are half or more 
grown may adhere to the tree, but are wormy and gummy at 
the picking time. The mature beetles are sluggish in the 
mornings, and are easily jarred from the trees. Taking advan- 
tage of this fact, the fruit-grower may jar them into sheets; 
or, in large orchards, into a large canvas hopper, which is 
wheeled from tree to tree upon a wheelbarrow-like frame, and 
under the apex of which is a tin can into which the insects 
roll. There is a slit or opening in one side of the hopper, 
which allows the tree to stand nearly in the middle of the 
canvas. The operator then gives the tree two or three sharp 
jars with a padded pole or mallet. The edges of the hopper 
are then quickly shaken with the hands and the insects roll 
down into the tin receptacle. In this receptacle there is 
kerosene oil, or it may be emptied from time to time. Just 



PLUM — PORTULACA 177 

how long this machine is to be run in the orchard will de- 
pend entirely upon circumstances. It is advisable to use the 
catcher soon after the blossoms fall, for the purpose of find- 
ing out how abundant the insects are. If a few insects are 
caught upon each tree, there is indication that there are 
enough of the pests to make serious trouble. If after a few 
days the insects seem to have disappeared, it will not be 
necessary to continue the hunt. In some years, especially in 
those succeeding a very heavy crop, it may be necessary to 
run the curculio-catcher every morning for four or five 
weeks ; but, as a rule, it will not be necessary to use it 
oftener than two or three times a week during that season ; 
and sometimes the season may be shortened by one-half. 
The insects fall most readily when the weather is cool, and 
it, therefore, is best to get through the whole orchard, if 
possible, before noon. Upon cloudy days, however, the 
insects may be caught all day. A smart man can attend to 
300 to 400 full -bearing trees in six hours if the ground has 
been well rolled or firmed, as it should be before the 
bugging operation begins. But whether the operation is 
troublesome or not, it is the price of Plums, and the grower 
must not expect to succeed long without it. The same 
treatment is essential to the saving of peaches and rarely, 
also, of sour cherries. 

Poppy. These showy annuals and perennials 
should be more generally grown. Nothing will lighten up 
a corner better than the hardy oriental Poppy, or the 
solid crimson or scarlet annual Poppies. All of the varie- 
ties grow readily from seed, which, in most cases, should 
be sown where the plants are to bloom. The seeds of the 
oriental and the Iceland Poppy may be sown in pots, the 
plants wintered over in a frame and carefully planted 
out the second spring. The Poppy is very impatient of 
root disturbance, however, and the safest method is to sow 
the seed where wanted. 

Portulaca, or Rose Moss. Brilliant little ten- 



178 amateur's practical garden -book 

der annuals, low-growing and sun-loving. They usually 
seed themselves, and once established will continue for 
years. Many of the varieties will produce a good percent- 
age of flowers as double as roses and of many colors. 
Seed should be sown where wanted. They bloom freely in 
light, sandy soil in the full blaze of the sun. 

Potato. The common practice of growing 
Potatoes in ridges or elevated hills is wrong, unless the soil 
is so wet that this practice is necessary to insure proper 
drainage; but in this case the land is not adapted to the 
growing of Potatoes. If the land is elevated into ridges or 
hills, there is a great loss of moisture by means of evapo- 
ration. During the last cultivating the Pota,toes may be 
hilled up slightly in order to cover the tubers ; but the hills 
should not be made in the beginning. Land for 
Potatoes should be rather loamy in character, and 
ought to have a liberal supply of potash, either 
naturally or supplied in the drill, by means of an 
application of sulfate of potash. See that the 
land is deeply plowed or spaded, so that the roots 
can penetrate deeper. Plant the Potatoes 3 or 
4 inches below the natural surface of the ground. 
It is ordinarily best to drop the pieces in drills. 
A continuous drill may be made by means of drop- 
ping one piece every 6 inches, but it is usually 
thought best to drop two pieces about every 12 
to 18 inches. The drills are far enough apart to allow good 
cultivation. If horse cultivation is used, the drills should 
be at least 3 feet apart. 

Small Potatoes are considered not to be so good as large 
ones for planting. One reason is because too many sprouts 
arise from each one, and these sprouts are apt to crowd 
each other. The same is true of the tip end or seed end of 
the tuber. Even when it is cut off, the eyes are so numer- 
ous that one secures many weak shoots rather than two or 
three strong ones. It is ordinarily best to cut the Potatoes 




POTATO— POTTING 



179 




Too deep 



to two or three eyes, leaving as much tuber as possible 
with each piece. From seven to eight bushels of Potatoes 
are required to plant an acre. 

For a very early crop in the garden, tubers are some- 
times sprouted in the cellar. When the 
sprouts are 4 to 6 inches high the tubers are 
carefully planted. It is essential that the 
sprouts are not broken in the handling. 
In this practice, also, the tubers are first ^'^ 
cut into large pieces, so that they will not 
dry out too much. 

The staple remedy for the Potato bug is 
Paris green, 1 pound of poison to 150 to 200 
gallons of water, with a little lime (see 
Paris Green). For the blight, spray with 
Bordeaux mixture, and spray thoroughly. 
Bordeaux mixture will also keep away the 
flea beetle to a large extent. 

Potato, Sweet. See Sweet Potato. 

Potting. The operation of potting 
a plant, while in itself simple, is very often 
associated with success or failure in the 
growth of the plant. The first and most 
common reason of failure is using too large 
a pot ; the second, imperfect drainage ; 
and the third, the poor physical condition 
of the soil. 

A small -rooted cutting or a feeble plant 
should have a pot only large enough to 
hold soil sufficient to surround the roots to 
the extent of 1 or 2 inches. More soil 
would hold too much moisture, thus ex- 
cluding the air. As the plants grow and 
the ball of dirt becomes well covered with white roots, 
and before these roots become dark in color, the plant 
should be repotted, using a pot one size larger and usually 




Plant too high 



180 amateur's practical garden -book 




a little richer soil. This operation should continue until 

the plant has made the desired growth. If it is desired to 
grow a geranium, fuchsia, begonia, or 
plants of a similar character, large enough 
for a window plant — say to the height or 
breadth of two feet, — a 6-inch pot will be 
large enough, provided the soil is .rich 
enough to continue the growth of the 
plant while in flower. It often happens 
that pots of the various sizes are not to 
hand ; and in case the pot is too large, it 
should have the drainage increased until it 
will take up as much room in the bottom as 
the pot is too large. Bear in mind that 
the soil should not hold free water. After 
the plant has filled the pot with roots it 
Too full will often be necessary to supply more food 

as the soil becomes exhausted. This may 

be done by digging out the top soil down 

to the young, white roots, replacing with 

new soil in which a little rotted manure, 

a pinch of bone-meal or other plant- 
food, has been added. Liquid manure 

may be used. This liquid manure is 

made from well rotted cow-, horse-, or 

sheep-manure thrown into a tub or barrel, 

covered with water, and allowed to stand 

until the strength of the manure is 

soaked out. This liquid should be diluted 

before using with clear water until it has 

the color of weak coffee. If used with 

judgment, nothing will cause a better 

growth or a greater quantity of flowers. 

The drainage may consist of any coarse material, such 

as old broken pots, small stones, pieces of charcoal, and the 

like, over which should be placed small broken sod or a little 




Careless 



POTTING— PRIMULAS 



181 



moss to keep the dirt from washing through and eventually 
stopping up the crevices through which the excess water 
should flow. 

A safe rule to follow in first potting the majority of 
house-plants, is to use one-third turf-loam, one-third leaf- 
mold or decayed leaves, and one-third sand, thoroughly 
mixed. Reduce the amount of leaf -mold and sand at 
successive pottings, adding a little well 
rotted manure, until, when the plants have 
been potted in 6-inch pots, at least four- 
fifths of the soil is turfy loam. Press the 
soil firmly in the pot and around the plant. 
Never fill the pot level full of soil, else the 
plant cannot be watered. 

Prickly Poppies, or Argemones, 
are hardy annuals, with large, bluish 
striking foliage and yellow flowers. They 
are easily grown in a warm soil and sunny 
exposure. Sow the seeds where the plants 
are to stand. Thin to 12 to 18 inches 
apart. They grow 2 feet high. 

Primulas, or Primroses, are of 

various kinds. One of them is the Auricula (which see). 
Others are hardy border plants. The true or English cow- 
slip is one of these; also the plants commonly known as 
Polyanthus. Hardy Primulas grow 6 to 10 inches high, 
sending up trusses of yellow and red flowers in early 
spring. Propagated by division, or by seed sown a year 
before the plants are wanted. Give them rich, moist soil. 

The Primula of the winter-garden is mostly the P. Sinensis 
(Chinese Primrose), grown very extensively by florists as a 
Christmas plant. With the exception of the full double 
varieties, it is usually grown from seed. The seed sown in 
March or April will make large flowering plants by No- 
vember or December, if the young plants are shifted to 
larger pots as needed. The seed should be sown on the flat 




182 



amateur's practical garden -book 




surface of the soil, composed of equal parts loam, leaf-mold 
and sand. The seed should be pressed down lightly and 
the soil watered carefully to prevent the seed from being 
washed into the soil. Very fine sphagnum moss may be 
sifted over the seed, or the box set in a moist place, 
where the soil will remain wet until the seeds germinate. 
When the plants are large enough they should be potted sep- 
arately or pricked out into shallow boxes. Frequent pottings 
or transplantings should be given until September, when they 
should be in the pots in which they are to bloom. 
The two essentials to successful growth through 
the hot summer are shade and moisture. Height 
6 to 8 inches. Bloom in winter and spring. 

At present the "baby Primrose" {Primula 
Forhesi) is popular. It is treated in essentially 
the same way as the Sinensis. All Primulas 
are impatient of a dry atmosphere and fluc- 
improper way to t^ating conditions. 

make the wound 

Prince's Feather. See Amarantus. 

Prunes are varieties of plums witli 
firm, meaty flesh, and which readily make 
dried fruit. SOme of the Prunes are com- ^^^ 
mercially grown in the East, but they are Before 
sold in the green state as other plums are ; 
and they are adapted to all the uses of 
other plums. Prunes are cultivated like 
other plums. 

Pruning. There are two general types of 
inquiry connected with the question of Pruning: 
First, that which has to do with the healing of the 
wounds; and second, that which has to do with the 
shaping of the top and the general welfare of the tree. ^^^ 

When a limb is cut off, it heals by being covered 
with callus tissue, which grows out from the cambium zone 
between the bark and wood and rolls over the face of the 




PRUNING 



183 




Before pruning 



wound. The hard wood itself never heals; that is, the 
cells do not have the power of making new cells ; therefore 
the old wood is simply covered up, or hermetically sealed as 
a cap is put on a fruit jar. It is evi- 
dent, therefore, that no kind of dress- 
ing will hasten the healing of this 
wound. The merit of a dressing is to 
keep the wound sound and healthy un- 
til the callus naturally covers it over. 
All things considered, the best dress- 
ing is probably thick linseed-oil paint. 
So far as the wound is concerned, 
the best time for Pruning is ordinarily 
in the spring, when the vital activities 
are beginning; but the season also in- 
fluences fruit-bearing and wood-mak- 
ing, and these questions should be considered. Those wounds 
heal best which are on strong main limbs, where there is 
a full flow of nutritious sap. The limb should be cut off so 
that the wound is parallel with the trunk upon which it sits, 
and close to it. That is to say, the longer the stub, the less 
rapid in general is the healing of the 
wound. It is the custom to cut the 
limb just outside the bulge at its base; 
but, in most cases, it is better to cut 
through this bulge, and to have the 
wound close to the main trunk. 

Heavy Pruning of the top tends to 
the production of wood ; therefore the 
severe Pruning of orchard trees, fol- 
lowing three or four years of neglect, 
sets the trees into heavy wood-bear- 
ing, and makes them more vigorous. 
Such treatment generally tends away 
from fruit -bearing. This heavy Pruning is usually neces- 
sary in neglected orchards, however, to bring trees back 




After pruning 



184 amateur's practical garden -book 



into shape and to revitalize them ; but the best Pruning- 
treatment of an orchard is to Prune it a little every year. 
It should be so Pruned that the tops of the trees 
,will be open, that no two limbs will interfere 
with each other, and so that the fruit itself will 
not be so abundant as to overload the tree. 
Pruning is a means of thinning. In general, 
it is best to prune orchard trees late in win - 

Sickle saw 

ter or early in spring. It is ordinarily better, 
however, to leave peaches and other tender fruits until 
after the buds have swollen, or even after the flowers 
have fallen, in order that one may determine how much 
they have been injured by the winter. Grape vines should 
be Pruned in winter or not later (in New York) than the 
first of March. If Pruned later than this, they may bleed. ^^^ w^l"„^cf 




fruits. 

It should be borne in mind that Pruning has two ob- 
jects: one is to merely trim the tree or to 
make it assume some designed shape; the 
other is to make the tree more vigorous or 
more fruitful, or to make some other change 
in its character. These ideals are well illus- 
trated in the Pruning of ornamental shrubs. 
If one wants to have the shrubs sheared into 
some particular shape, the shearing 
may be done at almost any time of the 
year ; in fact, it is better to do it two 
or three times each year in order to 
^ keep the trees trim and neat. If, 

however, the desire is to secure more 
flowers, the case is a very different one. Some shrubs 
and trees bear their flowers on the wood of the pre- 
ceding year. Such, for example, are the early flower- 
ing shrubs like lilacs and the snowballs. The flower 
buds are made the fall before. In this case, Pruning 



on a long 
handle 




Curved Pruning- 




PRUNING— PUMPKIN 



185 




tree Pruner— for limbs 
out of reach 



the shrub in winter cuts off the flower buds. The ideal time 
for Pruning them, therefore, is just after the flowers have 
passed. The flower buds will form later in the season 
for the production of the flowers the following spring. 
Other shrubs, however (particularly those which 
blossom late in the season), bear on wood of the 
current year's growth. That is, the clematis 
blossoms in late summer and fall on wood 
which grew that same season. The 
greater the quantity of strong wood 
which grows in any season, therefore, 
the greater the quantity of bloom in that 
season. With such shrubs, it is well to 

Prune in winter or early spring, and to Prune 
rather heavily. The abundance of new shoots 
which arise may be expected to bear flowers later 
on in the same season. 

Following are some shrubs which, for best re- 
sults in flower-bearing, may be Pruned when dor- 
mant (in winter) : camellia, Jackmani type of clem- 
atis, cornus, hibiscus (shrubby), hydrangea, many 
loniceras or honeysuckles, philadelphus or mock- 
orange, some spireas. 

Shrubs which may be Pruned when in leaf (just after 
blooming): lilac, deutzia, weigelas, exoehorda, spring- 
flowering loniceras, tree peony, flowering almond, some 
spireas and viburnums, wistaria. 

The marginal illustrations show how appl 
pear and plum trees may be Pruned when received 
from the nursery. Cut back the roots to fresh, 
unbroken wood. 

Various kinds of useful tree Pruncrs 
are shown !in the margins. See also 




Pruning shears 



Pumpkin. See Squash. 




An excellent Pruning 

saw. The blade is 

on a swivel 



186 amateur's practical garden -book 

Pyrethrum. The little, low-growing yellow- 
foliaged Feverfew, called Golden Feather, is used exten- 
sively for edging and design beds. Propagated by cuttings, 
as are geraniums. 

The tall- growing species are very fine border plants, 
being easy to grow and having showy flowers, in colors 
ranging from white through lilac to crimson. Their flowers 
appear in June and last a month, when, if the plants are 
cut down, they will flower again in the fall. The Persian in- 
sect powder is made from the dried flower heads of some 
of these species. Propagated by seed or division. Hardy 
and fine. 

Radishes should be grown quickly in order to 
have them at their best. They become tough and woody if 
grown slowly or allowed to stay in the ground too 
long. A light soil, well enriched, will grow most of 
the early varieties to table size in from three to five 
weeks. To have a supply through the early months, 
sowings should be made every two weeks. 
For summer, the large white or gray varie- 
ties are best. The winter varieties may be 
sown in September, harvested before severe 
Spring Radishes frosts, and stored in sand in a cool cellar. 

When they are to be used, if thrown into cold 
water for a short time they will regain their crispness. 
Sow Kadishes thickly in drills, 12 to 18 inches apart. 
Thin as needed. 

Raspberry. Both the red and black Rasp- 
berries are essentials of a good garden. A few plants of 
each will produce a supply of berries for a family through 
six or eight weeks, provided both early and late varieties 
are planted. A cool situation, soil that will hold moisture 
without being wet, and a thorough preparation of the 
ground, are the conditions necessary to success. The black- 
cap Raspberries should be set 3 to 4 feet apart, the rows 6 




RASPBERRY 187 

or 7 feet; the red varieties 3 feet apart, the rows 5 feet 
apart. Spring setting is usually preferable. 

As with blackberries and dewberries, Raspberries bear 
on last year's canes, and these canes bear but once. 
Therefore cut out the old canes after fruiting, or before the 
following spring, thus destroying such insects and fungi as 
may have lodged on them. New caues should have grown 
in the meantime, 3 to 6 to a hill. 

The first year after the plants are set the canes should 
be pinched back when they reach the height of from 30 to 
36 inches. If a very vigorous growth has been made the 
first season two canes may be left for fruiting, but in the 
case of weak growth only one cane should be allowed to 
fruit. In case of low-growing varieties — those that have 
been pinched back short — a mulch of straw or grass around 
the plants at fruiting time will help to hold 
the moisture, and also serve to keep the 
fruits clean in case of heavy rains. A 
Raspberry plantation will last three to five 
years. The black varieties are propagated 
by layers, the tip of a cane being laid in 
the soil in midsummer; by fall the tip ^'^ ^^^ ^"'^^ 

will have taken root and may be separated. The red 
varieties are propagated by suckers from the roots. In 
nurseries both blacks and reds are often propagated by 
means of root-cuttings. 

For red rust, pull out the plant, root and branch, and 
burn it. Short rotations — fruiting the plants only two or 
three years — and burning the old canes and trimmings, 
will do much to keep Raspberry plantations healthy. Spray- 
ing will have some effect in combating anthracnose. Rasp- 
berries may be bent over to the ground so that the snow 
will protect them, in severe climates. 

Varieties are always changing in favor. Good black- 
caps are Gregg, Ohio, and Kansas. Good red and purple 
sorts are Shaffer, Cuthbert, Loudon, and others. 




188 amateur's practical garden -book 

Rhododendrons are broad -leaved evergreen 

shrubs which require a fibrous or peaty soil and protection 
from bleak winds and hot suns in winter. It is well to 
plant them amongst trees for protection. In the North, 
mulch heavily with leaves in the fall. See that the soil is 
made fibrous with leaf -mold or other material. Rhododen- 
drons bloom from winter buds : therefore prune just after 
flowering, if at all. 

Rhubarb, or Pie Plant. This is usually propa- 
gated by division of the fleshy roots, small pieces of which 
will grow if separated from the old, established roots and 
planted in rich, mellow soil. Poor soil should be made rich 
by spading out at least 3 feet of the surface, filling with 
well rotted manure to within 1 foot of the level, throwing in 
the top soil and setting the roots with the crowns 4 inches 
below the surface, firming them with the feet. The stalks 
should not be cut for use until the second year, but the first, 
as well as the succeeding falls, some coarse manure should 
be thrown over the crowns, to be forked or spaded in lightly 
when spring opens. 

In growing seedling Rhubarb, the seed may be sown in a 
coldframe in March or April, protected from freezing, and 
in two months the plants will be ready to set in rows, 12 
inches apart. Give the plants good cultivation, and the 
following spring they may be set in a permanent place. At 
this time the plants should be set* in well prepared ground, 
at a distance each way of from 4 to 5 feet, and treated as 
those set with pieces of roots. 

If given good care and well manured, the plants will live 
for years and yield abundantly. Two dozen good roots will 
supply a large family. 

Ricinus. See Castor Oil Plant. 

Roses. It seems to be the first desire of the home 
maker, when he considers the planting of his grounds, to 
set out Roses. As a matter of fact, it should be one of 



ROSES 189 

the last things to do. Roses are essentially flower garden 
subjects, rather than lawn subjects. That is to say, the 
flowers are their chief beauty. They have very little to 
commend them in the way of foliage or habit, and they are 
inveterately attacked by insects and sometimes by fungi. 
In order to get the best results with Roses, they should be 
placed in a bed by themselves, where they can be tilled and 
pruned and well taken care of ; and they should be grown 
as specimen plants, as other flower garden plants are. The 
ordinary garden Roses should rarely be grown in mixed 
borders of shrubbery. 

If it is desired to have Roses in mixed borders, then the 
single and informal types should be chosen. The best of all 
these is Bosa rngosa. This has not only at- 
tractive flowers through the greater part of 
the season, but it also has very interesting 
foliage and a striking habit. The great profu- 
sion of bristles and spines gives it an indivi- 
dual and strong character. Even without the 
flowers, it is valuable to add character and 
cast to a foliage mass. The foliage is not at- 
tacked by insects or fungi, but remains green 
and glossy throughout the year. The fruit is 
also very large and showy, and persists on wiid Roses 

bushes well through the winter. Some of 
the wild Roses are also very excellent for mixing into foliage 
masses, but, as a rule, their foliage characteristics are rather 
weak, and they are liable to be attacked by thrips. 

Probably the most extensively grown class of Roses is 
the Remontant or Hybrid Perpetual. These, while not 
constant bloomers, are so easy of culture and give such 
good returns for the care and labor, that their popularity 
grows each year. The list of good varieties is very exten- 
sive, and while a few, such as General Jacqueminot, Paul 
Neyron, Marshall P. Wilder, Victor Verdier, Anne de Dies- 
bach, and Ulrich Brunner, are seen in most collections, one 




190 amateur's practical garden -book 

•cannot go far wrong in planting any of the list. Two of the 
Hybrid Chinese Koses may go with the Remontants, having 
the same season of bloom and being about as hardy. 
These are Magna Charta and Mme. Plantier. 

The next group in point of hardiness, and superior to 
the foregoing in continuity of bloom, are the Hybrid 
Noisettes, such as Coquette des Alpes, Coquette des 
Blanches, andElise Boelle. The blooms of these are white, 
often tinted with pink, very double and fragrant. 

The Hybrid Tea section, containing Duchess of Albany, 
La France, Meteor and Wootton, is very fine. These are 
not hardy in the North, but if protected by a frame, or if 
grown in pots, wintered in a pit, no class of Roses will give 
more general satisfaction. 

The Bourbon section contains three of the best bedding 
Roses, — Apolline, Hermosa, and Souvenir de la .Mal- 
maison. These will bloom continually through the fall 
months until severe frost, and with a little protection will 
prove hardy. 

The Bengal Roses, of which Agrippina is a leading va- 
riety, bloom through a long season, but are not hardy, and 
should be protected in a pit. They also make very fine 
pot-plants. 

The Moss Roses are well known, and are desirable in a 
general collection. 

The little Polyantha Roses, with Cecile Brunner and 
Clothilde Soupert as two of the best, are always attrac- 
tive, either when planted out or grown in pots. 

The climbing Roses, which bloom later in the season 
than the Remontants, are very useful as pillar and screen 
plants. The old Queen of the Prairies and Baltimore Belle 
are still in favor. A newer and better variety is the Crim- 
son Rambler. 

The Tea Roses have proved more disappointing to the 
amateur than any other. No one can resist the temptation 
to try to have a few of these highly perfumed, richly colored 



ROSES 191 

Roses, but unless one has a conservatory or an especially 
favored location in the house, the results do not pay for the 
trouble. A few blooms may be had outdoors with plants set 
in the spring, but on the approach of winter they must be 
taken up and protected by more secure means than is taken 
with other Roses. If potted and grown in the house, they 
are the first plants to become infested with red spider ; or if 
grown cool enough to escape that pest, they will be subject 
to an attack of mildew. Still, the results are well worth 
striving for, and a few persons will find the proper 
conditions ; but the Tea Rose is essentially a florist's 
flower. 

All Roses are heavy feeders and require rich, moist 
soil. A clay soil, if well enriched and having perfect 
drainage, is ideal. Pruning should be carefully done, 
preferably in the spring. All weak growth should be 
cut out and the balance well cut back. The flowers 
of all Roses, except the Yellow Persian and the 
Harrison's Yellow, being borne on the new wood, the bushes 
should be cut back half or more of their growth. 

In the majority of cases, Roses on their own roots will 
prove more satisfactory than budded stock. On own-rooted 
stock, the suckers or shoots from below the surface of the 
soil will be of the same kind, whereas with budded Roses 
there is danger of the stock (usually Manetti or Dog Rose) 
starting into growth and, not being discovered, outgrowing 
the bud, taking possession, and finally killing out the weaker 
growth. Still, if the plants are set deep enough to prevent 
adventitious buds of the stock from starting, there is no 
question that finer Roses may be grown than from plants 
on their own roots. 

The summer insects that trouble the Rose are best 
treated by a forceful spray of clear water. This should be 
done early in the day and again at evening. Those having 
city water or good spray pumps will find this an easy 
method of keeping Rose pests in check. Those without 




192 amateur's practical garden -book 

these facilities may use whale oil soap, fir-tree oil, good 
soap suds, or Persian insect powder. 

Roses in Winter. Although the growing of 
Roses under glass is a business which would better be left 
to florists, as already said, the following advice may be 
useful to those who have conservatories : 

When growing forcing Roses for winter flowers, florists 
usually provide raised beds, in the best-lighted houses 
they have. The bottom of the bed or bench is left with 
cracks between the boards for drainage; the cracks are 
covered with inverted strips of sod, and the bench is then 
covered with four or five inches of fresh, fibrous loam. This 
is made from rotted sods, with decayed manure incorpo- 
rated at the rate of about one part in four. Sod from any 
drained pasture -land makes good soil. The plants are set 
on the bed in the spring or early summer, from 12 to 18 
inches apart, and are grown there all summer. 

During the winter they are kept at a temperature of 58° 
to 60° at night, and from 5° to 10° warmer during the day. 
The heating pipes are often run under the benches, not be- 
cause the Rose likes bottom heat, but to economize space 
and to assist in drying out the beds in case of their becom- 
ing too wet. The greatest care is required in watering, 
in guarding the temperature and in ventilation. Draughts 
result in checks to the growth and in mildewed foliage. 

Dryness of the air, especially from fire heat, is followed 
by the appearance of the minute red spider on the leaves. 
The aphis, or green plant louse, appears under all condi- 
tions, and must be kept down by syringing with tobacco-tea 
or fumigation with tobacco stems. 

An effectual and preferable method now employed for 
destroying the aphis is to fumigate with the vapor arising 
from a pan containing a gallon of water and a pint of strong 
extract of tobacco. To generate the vapor, a piece of red- 
hot iron is dropped into the pan. From one to three or four 
pans are required to a house, according to its size. For the 



ROSES IN WINTER 



193 



red spider, the chief means of control is syringing with 
either clear or soapy water. If the plants are intelligently 
ventilated and given, at all times, as much fresh air as pos- 
sible, the red spider is less likely to appear. For mildew, 
which is easily recognized by its white, powdery appear- 
ance on the foliage, accompanied with more or less distor- 
tion of the leaves, the remedy is sulfur 
in some form or other. The flowers of 
sulfur may be dusted thinly over the 
foliage ; enough merely to slightly whiten 
the foliage is sufficient. It maybe dusted 
on from the hand in a broadcast way, or 
applied with a powder-bellows, which is 
a better and less wasteful method. Again, 
a paint composed of sulfur and linseed oil 
may be applied to a portion of one of the 
steam or hot-water heating pipes. The 
fumes arising from this are not agreeable 
to breathe, but fatal to mildew. Again, 
a little sulfur may be sprinkled here and 
there on the cooler parts of the green- 
house flue. Under no circumstances, 
however, ignite any sulfur in a greenhouse, 
of burning sulfur is death to plants. 

Propagation. — The writer has known women who could 
root Roses with the greatest ease. They would simply 
break oft' a branch of the Rose, insert it in the flower-bed, 
cover it with a bell -jar, and in a few weeks they would have 
a strong plant. Again they would resort to layering; in 
which case a branch, notched half way through on the lower 
side, was bent to the ground and pegged down so that 
the notched portion was covered with a few inches of soil. 
The layered spot was watered from time to time. After 
three or four weeks roots were sent forth from the notch and 
the branch or buds began to grow, when it was known that 
the layer had formed roots. 




A Hybrid Perpetual Rose 



The vapor 



M 



194 amateur's practical garden -book 




Vase of Roses 



Several years ago a friend took a cheese-box, jBilled it 
with sharp sand to the brim, supported it in a tub of water 
so that the lower half inch of the box was immersed. The 
sand was packed down, sprinkled, and single - 
joint Rose cuttings, with a bud and a leaf 
~ near the top, were inserted almost their 
|/ whole length in the sand. This was in July, 
a hot month, when it is usually difficult to 
root any kind of cutting ; moreover, the box 
stood on a southern slope, facing the hot 
sun, without a particle of shade. The 
only attention given the box was to keep 
the water high enough in the tub to touch 
the bottom of the cheese -box. In about 
three weeks he took out three or four dozen 
of as nicely rooted cuttings as could have 
been grown in the greenhouse. 
The "saucer system," in which cuttings are inserted in 
wet sand contained in a saucer an inch or two deep, to 
be exposed at all times to the full sunshine, is of a similar 
nature. The essentials are, to give the cuttings the "full 
sun" and to keep the sand saturated with water. 

Whatever method is used, if cuttings are to be trans- 
planted after rooting, it is important to pot them off in 
small pots as soon as they have a cluster of roots one-half 
inch or an inch long. Leaving them too long in the sand 
weakens the cutting. 

Sage is a perennial, but best results are se- 
cured by resowing every two or three years. Give a warm, 
rich soil. Hardy. 

Salpiglossis. Very fine half-hardy annuals. 
The flowers, which are borne in profusion, are of many 
colors, and rival in markings most other annuals. The 
flowers are short-lived if left on the plant, but will hold 
well if cut and placed in water. Seed should be sown in 




SALPIGLOSSIS— SAN JOSE SCALE 195 

heat in February or March, the seedlings grown along until 
May, when they may be planted out. It is usually best to 
pinch out the centers of the plants at this time 
to cause them to branch. 

Salsify, or Vegetable Oyster. Sal- 
sify is one of the best of winter and early spring 
vegetables, and should be grown in every gar- 
den. It may be cooked in several different 
ways. The seed should be sown as early in the 
spring as possible. Handle the same as pars- 
nips in every way. The roots, like parsnips, saisify 
are the better for the winter freeze, but part 
of the crop should be dug in the fall, and stored in soil 
or moss in a cellar for winter use. 

Salvia. The Scarlet Salvia (or Sage) is a well 

known tender perennial, blooming late in the fall and mak- 
ing a fine effect in beds or borders. It is easily transplanted, 
and large plants removed to the house continue in bloom for 
some time. The blue and white species are both 
desirable summer-flowering plants, and the low- 
growing Silver Leaf Sage is well adapted for edging. 
Propagated from seed, cuttings, or by division. 
Height 2 to 3 feet. 

San Jose Scale has now become a wide- 
spread pest. It has been introduced into the eastern 
states from the Pacific slope. It is a minute scale 
insect the size of a small pinhead, shield -shaped, 
with a raised center. There are various native and 
comparatively harmless scales which look very much like 
it, and an expert is usually needed to distinguish them. 
The San Jose Scale can usually be distinguished, however, 
by its very serious results. In favorable seasons it spreads 
with enormous rapidity, covering the branches of many 
kinds of plants, sapping their juices, and either killing or 
reducing them to such a low state of vitality as to render 




196 amateur's practical garden -book 

them useless ; or they are killed by the winter. The indica- 
tions are that the scale will never be so serious in the 
moist, cool climates of the northeastern states as it is in 
the hotter and drier climates of the West. It has been 
found by careful experiments that it can be killed by a 
spray of kerosene and water (see Kerosene) in a proportion 
of one part of kerosene to four or five of water. This ma- 
terial is applied with a mechanical pump mixer, and the ap- 
plication should be made on a sunny day so that evaporation 
soon takes place. Spraying with kerosene in cloudy weather 
is very likely to result in injury to the plants. Some experi- 
menters have found crude petroleum to be a specific for 
the San Jose Scale. 

It is not to be expected that the San Jose Scale can be 
exterminated any more than the tent caterpillar or apple 
scab can. It follows, therefore, that wo should spray for 
the San Jose Scale as we do for other pests. It is such a 
serious pest, however, that the state or province should take 
measures to hold it in check. Some system of inspection 
should be inaugurated, and it is probably best that nursery 
stock be fumigated with hydrocyanic gas before it is sold. 
This gas is exceedingly poisonous, however, and should 
never be handled by the inexperienced. Whenever it is 
used, it should be under the control of experts. Plants or 
plantations which are badly infested with the scale would 
better be destroyed. 

Scabiosa. Mourning Bride. A useful annual, 

producing a profusion of bloom through the greater part of 
the summer if not allowed to go to seed. The flowers range 
in color from white to rich purple, are borne on long 
stems, and are very lasting. The seed may be sown where 
the plants are wanted, or to hasten the season of bloom may 
be sown in boxes in February and grown along to be planted 
out in April. 

Scarlet Runner. One of the pole or running 



SCARLET RUNNER— SEA -KALE 197 

beans ( Phaseolus multiflorus) . It is a great favorite with people 
from the Old World, especially English and Germans. This 
bean is used either as an ornamental vine for porches or 
trellises, or as a screen to hide unsightly objects. The red 
flowers are very showy, either on the plant or in bouquets. 
The green pods are excellent as string beans, and the dried 
beans are of superior quality. Seed should not be sown 
until the ground has become thoroughly warm ; or the plants 
may be started in the house. 

Scraping of trees is rarely to be advised, except in 
fruit plantations. The old and hanging bark on apple and 
pear trees may be taken off in order to destroy the hiding 
places of insects and the breeding places of fungi, and also 
to make the plantation look more neat and kempt. Only 
the loose outer bark should be removed, however. Trees 
should not be scraped to the quick. If there is moss on 
trees, it can be destroyed readily by a spray of Bordeaux 
mixture. 

A large part of the beauty of an ornamental tree lies in 
its characteristic bark, and it is very rare that such trees 
should be scraped. 

Screens. See Windbreak. 

Screw Pine. See Pandanns. 

Sea-Kale shoots are very highly prized as a 
delicacy when blanched. The seed should be sown in a hot- 
bed early in the spring, plants transplanted to the garden 
when from 2 to 3 inches high, and given high cultivation 
through the season, being covered with litter on the approach 
of winter. The young stalks are blanched early the following 
spring by covering with large pots or boxes, or by banking 
with sand or other clean material. The Dwarf Green Scotch, 
Dwarf Brown, and Siberian are among the leading varieties. 
Sea-kale is eaten much as asparagus is. Highly prized by 
those who know it. 

Sea-Kale is also propagated by cuttings of the roots 4 or 



198 amateur's practical garden -book 

5 inches long, planted directly in the soil in spring. The 
plant is perennial, and the early shoots may be bleached 
year after year. 

Seed Sowing. The general rule in sowing 

seeds is to cover them twice or three times their thickness. 
This rule will apply to the majority of seeds, but in many 
plants of a naturally short season of bloom or growth, an 
instance of which is the sweet pea, it may be advisable 
to sow the seed deeper, that the roots may have sufficient 
moisture and be in a cool temperature through the hot 
summer months. Also, in sowing very minute seed, as 
tobacco, petunia, begonia, and others of like size, care 
should be taken to have them only under the surface of the 
soil, — simply pressed down with a smooth surface or allowed 
to settle into the soil with the soaking in of the water. The 
soil for all seeds should be loose and porous, in order to 
allow the. excessive moisture to escape and the warmth to 
penetrate, but should be firmed directly over the seeds to 
induce an upward flow of moisture. One of the most com- 
mon mistakes in sowing seed is in sowing all kinds at the 
same time without regard to the season, thus causing a fail- 
ure with some, while others grow freely. All tender seed 
should be sown only when the ground has become thoroughly 
warm, while seeds of the so-called hardy plants may be 
sown as early in the spring as the ground is fit to work. A 
few kinds of seed are the better for soaking, especially such 
as for some reason have been delayed in sowing. Sweet pea 
seed is benefited by soaking if not put into the ground until 
the soil is warm. Seed of eanna, moonflower and others 
with hard shells may be scraped until the outer shell is 
pierced or is very thin. 

It is generally better to buy garden seeds than to grow 
them, for those who make a business of seed-growing be- 
come expert in the cultivation and selection of the plants. 

Seeds of most plants should be kept dry and 



SEEDS— SHADE TREES 199 

also rather cool. It is always better to rely upon fresh 
seeds. Test them in boxes in the house, if possible, before 
planting them in the open. If beans, peas, corn or other 
Seeds become buggy, pour a little bisulfide of carbon (very 
inflammable) into them. The material will not injure the 
Seeds even if poured on them. It soon evaporates. A tea- 
spoonful will kill the insects in four quarts of Seeds, if the 
receptacle is tight. 

Most tree Seeds should be kept moist until planted. 
They are usually buried or kept in sand. 

Sensitive Plant (Mimosa). This curious plant 
is often grown for the amusement it affords by its habit of 
closing its leaves and dropping the leaf- stalk whenever the 
plant is touched. Seed should be sown in heat early in the 
season, and the plants grown in pots or a protected border. 
The seed is sold by all seedsmen. The plant grows readily 
in a temperature suited to beans. It will not stand frost. 
The young plants are usually the most sensitive. 

Shade Trees. The best Shade Trees are 
usually those which are native to the particular region, 
since they are hardy and adapted to the soil and other con- 
ditions. Elms, maples, basswoods, and the like, are nearly 
always reliable. In regions in which there are serious 
insect enemies or fungous diseases, the trees which are 
most likely to be attacked may be omitted. For instance, 
in parts of the East the elm leaf beetle is a very serious 
pest; and it is a good plan in such places to plant other 
trees than elms. Amongst the best exotic trees for shade 
in the northern parts of the country are the Norway maple, 
European lindens, horse chestnut, and the European species 
of elm. Trees for shade should ordinarily be given suffi- 
cient room that they may develop into full size and 
symmetrical heads. The trees may be planted as close as 
10 or 15 feet apart for temporary effect; but as soon as they 
begin to crowd they should be thinned. 



200 amateur's practical garden -book 

Shelter-belts. See Windbreak. 

Shrubbery. Shrubs have two kinds of values 
or uses: first, they are useful for their own sakes or as 
individual specimens; and second, for use in the making of 
foliage masses or groups. Ordinarily they are used only for 
the former purpose in home grounds ; but their greatest use 
is, nevertheless, in heavy masses about the borders of the 
place or in the angles of the building. That is to say, 
they should contribute to the general design of the place 
or to its pictorial effect. If they are planted in Shrub- 
beries or masses, the flowers are still as interesting and 
as showy as they are when the bushes are planted alone. 
In fact, the flowers usually show to better advantage, 
since they have a heavy background of foliage. In the 
Shrubbery mass the bushes are more easily cared for than 
when they are scattered as single specimens over the lawn. 
The single specimen which is irregular, or ragged, or un- 
tidy, is an undesirable object; but such a specimen may 
contribute an indispensable part to the border mass. In the 
border they do not need the attention to pruning that they 
do in the lawn. The main part of the Shrubbery mass 
should be made of the stronger, larger growing and coarser 
Shrubs; and the more delicate ones, or those with highly 
colored leaves or showy flowers, may be placed near the 
inner edge of the plantation. Shrubs which are valued 
chiefly for their flowers or showy foliage, as, for example, 
the Hydrangea paniculata, may be planted just in front of a 
bold Shrubbery mass, so that they will have a background 
to show off their beauties. Further directions for the lay- 
out of the grounds will be found under the articles Lawns 
and Borders. 

It is ordinarily best to plow or spade the entire area in 
which the Shrubs are to be set. For a year or two the 
ground should be tilled between the Shrubs, either by horse 
tools or by hoes and rakes. If the place looks bare, seeds of 



SHRUBBERY 201 

quick-growing flowers may be scattered about the edges of 
the mass. The larger Shrubs, like lilacs and syringas, may 
be set about 4 feet apart; but the smaller ones should be 
set about 2 feet apart if it is desired to secure an immediate 
effect. If after a few years the mass becomes too crowded, 
some of the specimens may be removed. Throw the Shrubs 
into an irregular plantation, not in rows, and make the 
inner edge of the mass more or less undulating and broken. 
It is a good practice to mulch the plantation each fall with 
light manure, leaf -mold or other material. Even though the 
Shrubs are perfectly hardy, this mulch greatly improves the 
land and promotes growth. After the Shrub borders have 
become two or three years old, the drifting leaves of fall 
will be caught therein and will be held as a mulch. It is 
often advisable not to remove these leaves, but to allow 
them to remain year after year, where they make a fine 
covering of leaf -mold. When the Shrubs are first planted, 
they are headed back one-half or more; but after they are 
established they are not to be pruned, but allowed to take 
their own way, and after a few years the outermost ones 
will droop and meet the greensward. 

Good Shrubs are numerous. Some of the best are those 
to be found in woods and along roadsides. They are hardy. 
Of Shrubs which are generally adaptable for the North, the 
following are excellent: 

Barberries. 

Box. 

Burning Bush, or Euonymus. 

Bush Honeysuckles. 

Bush Willows. 

Caryopteris, blooming in August and September. 

Cotoneasters. 

Desmodiums, or Lespedezas, blooming in fall. 

Dwarf Sumac. Bhus copallina. 

Elders. Native species are excellent. 

Exochorda, with profuse white bloom in spring. 



202 amateur's practical garden -book 

Flowering Almond. 

Flowering Crabs. 

Flowering Currants. 

Forsythias, or Golden Bells. 

Fringe Tree, or Chionanthus. 

Hawthorns. 

Hydrangeas. 

Indian Currant. Symphoricarpos vulgaris. 

Japanese Quince. 

Kerria, or Corchorus. 

Lilacs. 

Mock Orange, or Philadelphus. 

New Jersey Tea, or Ceanothus. 

Osiers, or Dogwoods. 

Privet. 

Rose Acacia. 

Roses (see Boses). 

Smoke Tree. 

Snowballs. The Japanese is preferable. 

Snowberry. Symphoricarpos racemosus. 

Spireas of many kinds. 

Viburnums of many kinds. 

Weigelas. 

White Alder. Clethra alnifolia. 

Witch Hazel. Blooms on the eve of winter. 

Xanthoceras sorbifolia, 

Silene, or Catchfly. Some of the Silenes are 
hardy annuals of very easy culture. Sow seeds where the 
plants are to stand; or, if early results are desired, seeds 
may be started in boxes. The plants thrive in any garden 
soil, even if it is not very rich. Colors red, or sometimes 
running to white. One foot. Let plants stand 6 to 10 
inches apart. 

Smilax of the florists is closely allied to 
asparagus. While it cannot be recommended for house cul- 



SMILAX— SNOWFLAKE 203 

ture, the ease with which it may be grown and the uses to 
which the festoons of leaves may be put, entitle it to a 
place in the conservatory or greenhouse. Seed sown in pots 
or boxes in January or February, the plants shifted as 
needed until planted on the bench in August, will grow fine 
strings of green by the holidays. The plants should be set 
on low benches, giving as much room as possible overhead. 
Green -colored strings should be used for the vines to climb 
on, the vines frequently syringed to keep down the red 
spider, which is very destructive to this plant, and liquid 
manure given as the vines grow. The soil should contain a 
good proportion of sand and be enriched with well -rotted 
manure. After the first strings are cut, a second growth 
fully as good as the first may be had by cleaning up the 
plants and top-dressing the soil with rotted manure. 
Slightly shading the house through August will add to the 
color of the. leaves. The odor from a vine of Smilax 
thickly covered with the small flowers is very agreeable. 

Snapdragon, or Antirrhinum. An old garden 

favorite, flowering freely through a long season. The dwarf 
strain is well adapted for bedding or borders. Any light 
soil, well enriched with rotted manure, will grow Snap- 
dragons to perfection. Distinct varieties should be propa- 
gated by cuttings, as they do not come true from seed. 
Sow seed early in the spring. 

Although bloom may be obtained the first year, late 
sown plants sometimes persist over winter and bloom early 
in the spring. Snapdragons make good window plants. 

Snowdrop (Galanthus) . This is one of the 
earliest flowers of spring, always welcome. It should be 
planted in the edge of the border. The bulbs may be 
planted in October in any good border soil and left undis- 
turbed for years; or they may be potted at that time, and 
after forming roots be gently forced into bloom in winter. 

Snowflake (Leucoium) . Culture same as for 
Snowdrop. 



204 amateur's practical garden -book 

Sodding. In general, the best way to secure a 
lawn is by the sowing of seed (see iawn), since it is the 
least expensive way. For small areas, and along the sides 
of walks and drives, sods may be used. The results are 

quicker. Unless the sod is of the right kind, however, 

and very carefully laid, the results are not so good as 

with seed. 

The sod which is best adapted to the Sodding of lawns 

is that which comes from an old, closely grazed pasture. 

Sod from a sheep pasture is supposed to be best. Such 

|-(S| sod has been so closely grazed that it has made a very 

\J dense mat of roots, and all the weeds have been de- 

^t°^]7o*r stroyed. The droppings of the animals also make the 

TodTdg? ground rich. The sod should be cut in very thin strips. 

'"^^ It should not be more than an inch and one -half or two 

inches in thickness. If it is thicker than that, it is heavy and 

bulky to handle, and is not so easily laid. Ordinarily, the 

sod is cut in strips ten inches or a foot wide. A board is 

laid on the sod and the strip is cut along either side of it 

with a sod cutter or a sharp spade. Two men then roll 

up the sod. One stands on the strip of sod with his face 

toward the man who, with the spade, cuts it loose beneath. 

As it is cut loose, the man on the strip rolls the sod so that 

the upper surface is on the inside of the roll. Strips longer 

than ten or twelve feet make rolls which 

are too heavy to handle with ease. 

The soil upon which the sod is to be 
placed should be very loose, so that the sod j^- 
can be pounded down firmly. Some heavy 
pounder should be used, as a block of wood. Cutting sod 

It is usually impossible to pound down sod with the back of a 
spade sufficiently firm unless the soil is very loose. The 
sod should be pounded until the top is about level with the 
surrounding soil. This insures contact with the soil be- 
neath, so that there are no air spaces and no likelihood of 
drying out. Sod pounded down as firmly as this should 




SODDING— SOILS 205 

grow very readily. If a sod edging is laid along walks and 
drives, it should be pounded down an inch or more lower 
than the surrounding loose land which is seeded, because 
the loose land will finally settle ; otherwise the sod border 
is likely to be higher than adjacent land after a year or two. 

If there are uneven places on the sodded area, these de- 
pressions can be filled in with very loose, fine soil; and the 
grass will grow through it. In dry weather, a sodded area 
may be mulched with a half inch of fine loam to protect it. 

Soils. Soils are of many kinds. The classi- 
fication of soils depends upon one's point of view. Garden- 
ers ordinarily call a good, friable, dark-colored, rich Soil a 
garden loam. No Soil is so good that it cannot be improved. 
It is improved in two general ways: by tilling (see Till- 
age), and by the application of various substances. 

In considering the improvement of lands by the applica- 
tion of foreign substances, two distinct things are to be con- 
sidered: the improvement of the physical texture, or tilth, 
of the Soil ; the increasing of its plant -food. These are 
coordinate objects. In some cases one may be of prime 
importance, and in another case the other may be more 
necessary. Lands which have a fair store of available plant- 
food may be unproductive. Such lands may be very greatly 
benefited by stable manure, even though that manure may 
have lost a large part of fertility by being baptized under 
the eaves of the barn. If plant-food alone is needed, then 
some concentrated or commercial fertilizer may be the best 
thing to apply. In most cases the main or chief ameliora- 
tion of the land is to be wrought by tillage, stable manures, 
mulches, green crops, and the like; if special results are 
desired, commercial fertilizers may be added more or less 
liberally, as the case demands (see Manures, Fertilizers) . 

The top-dressing of Soils is often very beneficial because 
it tends to prevent the escape of moisture, and often im- 
proves the physical texture. If the material contains plant- 
food, the land will also be directly enriched. The trim- 



206 amateur's practical garden -book 




Spade 



mings from lawns may be a distinct protection to lands if 
allowed to remain (see Laicns) ; and the leaves which blow 
into clumps of shrubbery may often be allowed to remain 
with good results. However, if the leaves become too thick 
year after year, they tend to induce a surface rooting of the 
shrubs. This, however, may be no disadvantage unless the 
mulch were finally to be removed. One of the very best 
top -dressings for borders and shrubbery is spent tan 
bark, since it does not pile up on the ground, but 
tends to work into it. Well -rotted sawdust often 
has the same effect. These materials are much used 
by gardeners, when they can be had, since they can 
be raked into the soil in the spring, and need not be 
removed. 

Solidago. See Goldenrod. 

Spades and Shovels must be a part of every 

garden equipment. The common and most useful forms 
are shown in the cuts, but long- handled tools are more 
useful for the loading of earth, the making of ditches, the 
spreading of mulches, and the like. It 
pays to buy the steel tools, with strongly 
strapped handles. 

Spearmint is prized by many 

people as a seasoning, particularly for 

the Thanksgiving and holiday cookery. 

It is a perennial and perfectly hardy, 

and will live in the open garden year 

after year. If a supply of the fresh 

herbage is wanted in winter, remove 

sods of it to the house six weeks 

before wanted. Place the sods in 

boxes, and treat as for house plants. The plants should 

have been frosted and become perfectly dormant before 

removal. 

Spinach. Probably the most extensively grown 




SPINACH— SPRAYING 207 

early spring vegetable, being in great demand as greens. 
The earliest crop that finds its way to market is gathered 
from seed sown in September or October, often pro- 
tected by frames or other means through the severe winter, 
and cut soon after growth starts in early spring. Even as 
far north as New York Spinach may stand over winter with- 
out protection. Spinach is forced by placing sash over 
the frames in February and March, protecting the young 
leaves from severe freezing by mats or straw thrown over 
the frames. Seed may be sown in early spring for a succes- 
sion; later in the season seed of the New Zealand Summer 
Spinach may be sown, and this will grow through the heat 
of the summer and yield a fine quality of leaves. The seed 
of this [kind being very hard, should be scalded and 
allowed to soak a few hours before sowing. This seed is 
usually sown in hills about three feet apart, sowing four to 
six seed in each hill. The spring and winter Spinach should 
be sown in drills 12 to 14 inches apart, one ounce being suf- 
ficient for 100 feet of drill. Remember that common 
Spinach is a cool- weather (fall and spring) crop. 

Spraying. Of late j-ears Spraying has come to 
be one of the most important of all horticultural operations. 
Most kinds of injurious fungi and insects can be combated 
by a water spray in which various poisons or injurious sub- 
stances are contained. There are two general classes of 
Spraying material : first, fungicides, or those which are 
used for the control of fungi or plant diseases ; second, in- 
secticides, or those which are used for the control of in- 
sect enemies. 

The fungicides usually contain copper or sulfur, or both. 
The most popular and generally useful fungicide is the 
Bordeaux mixture (which see). It should be borne in mind 
that most injurious fungi work on the interior of the leaf or 
stem, and only the spore -bearing parts come to the surface. 
It is therefore very important that. Spraying with fungicides 
be done very early in order to prevent the fungus from get- 



208 amateur's practical garden -book 

ting a hold. It is much better to Spray once very thor- 
oughly than to Spray a half dozen times carelessly. It is 
important that the entire surface of the foliage or stems be 
covered with the material in order to prevent the access of 
the fungi. 

Of insecticides, there are two general types: those 
which kill by external contact and are applied to plant lice, 
scale insects, and all other insects which suck their food ; 
and the poisonous compounds which are used for the chew- 
ing insects, as all the tribes of worms and beetles. Of the 
former class, the most important material is kerosene in 
various forms (which see). Of the latter kind is Paris 
green (which see). For insects. Spray just as soon as the 
attack is evident. Paris green and Bordeaux mixture may 
be used together. 

The best pump for Spraying is the one which throws the 
stream the greatest distance with the least amount of liquid, 
and the best nozzle is that which distributes the material 
most finely and evenly. For Spraying plants close at hand, 
the Vermorel nozzle is now the most popular. If it is de- 
sired to reach the tops of large trees, some other nozzle 
should be used, as the McGowen, Boss, or other types. 
Every outfit should have two or three kinds of nozzles for 
different kinds of work. Get a pump with much power. 

Spray thoroughly. The general rule is to spray the entire 
plant until the material begins to drip, at which time it may 
be supposed that the plant is covered completely. When 
and how often one should Spray, and what material he 
should use, will depend entirely upon the difficulty which 
he is endeavoring to combat. Most fruit trees should be 
Sprayed before they bloom and again just afterwards. Some- 
times they will need Spraying again. 

Sprekelia. Culture of Amaryllis. 

Squash. The time of planting, method of pre- 
paring' the hills and after culture are the same as for cucum- 



SQUASH — STOCKS 



209 




Hubbard Squash 



"bers and melons (which see), except that for the Early 
Bush varieties the hills should be 4 or 5 feet apart, and for 
the later running varieties from 6 to 
8 feet apart. From eight to ten 
seeds should be planted in each hill, 
thinning to four plants after danger 
from bugs is over. Of the early 
Squashes, one ounce of seed will 
plant fifty hills; of the later va- 
rieties, one ounce will plant but 
eighteen to twenty hills. For winter 
use, varieties of the Habbard type are best. For summer 
use, the Crookneeks and Scallop Squashes are popular. In 
growing winter Squashes in a northern climate, it is essen- 
tial that the plants start off quickly and vig- 
orously: a little chemical fertilizer wall help. 
Pumpkins are grown the same as Squashes. 

Squills iScilla). Blue Bell. Wild 

Hyacinth. Well-known bulbous plants, most 
of them hardy. They plant well with snow- 
drops and crocus, flowering at the same time, 
but continuing longer in bloom. The colors 
are red, pink, blue or white. The blue varieties have very 
fine shades of color. Should be planted in October and 
remain undisturbed. 

Stocks. The Ten -weeks and the biennial or 
Brompton Stocks, are found in nearly all old-fashioned gar- 
dens. Most gardens are thought to be incomplete without 
Stocks, and the use of the biennial flowering species as house 
plants is increasing. The Ten-weeks Stock is usually grown 
from seed sown in hotbed or boxes in March. The seedlings 
are transplanted several times previous to being planted out 
in early May. At each transplanting the soil should be made 
a little richer. The double flowers will be more numerous 
when the soil is rich. 




Scallop or Patty-pan 
Summer Squash 



N 



210 amateur's practical garden -book 

The biennial species should be sown the season previous 
to that in which flowers are wanted, the plants wintered over 
in a cool house, and grown on the following spring. 
They may be planted out through the summer and lifted into 
pots in August or September for winter flowering. These 
may be increased by cuttings taken from the side shoots ; but 
the sowing of seed is a surer method, and unless an 
extra fine variety is to be saved, it would be the best one to 
pursue. Height 10 to 15 inches. 

Storing. The principles which are involved in 
the Storing of perishable products, as fruits and vegetables, 
differ with the different commodities. All the root crops, 
and most fruits, need to be kept in a cool, moist and uniform 
temperature if they are to be preserved a great length of 
time. Squashes, sweet potatoes, and some other things, need 
to be kept in an intermediate and what might be called a 
high temperature ; and the atmosphere should be drier than 
for most other x^roducts. The low temperature has the effect of 
arresting decomposition and the work of fungi and bacteria. 
The moist atmosphere has the effect of preventing too great 
evaporation and the consequent shriveling. In the Storing 
of any commodity, it is very important to see that the prod- 
uct is in proper condition for keeping. Discard all specimens 
which are bruised or which are likely to decay. Much of the 
decay of fruits and vegetables in Storage is not the fault of 
the Storage, but is really the work of diseases with which the 
materials are infested before they are put into Storage. For 
example, if potatoes and cabbages are affected with the rot, 
it is practically impossible to keep them any length of 
time . 

Apples, winter pears, and all roots, should be kept at a 
temperature somewhat near the freezing point. It should not 
raise above 40° Fahr. for best results. Apples can even be 
kept at one or two degrees below the freezing point if the 
temperature is kept uniform. Cellars in which there are 
heaters are likely to be too dry and the temperature too high. 




STORING 211 

In such cases it is well to keep fresh vegetables and fruits in 
tight receptacles, and pack the roots in sand or moss in order 
to prevent shriveling. In these places, apples usually keep 
better if headed up in barrels than if kept on racks or 
shelves. In moist and cool cellars, however, it is preferable 
for the home supply to place them on shelves, not piling 
them more than five or six inches deep, for then they can be 
sorted over as occasion re- 
quires. In case of fruits, be 
sure that the specimens are 
not over-ripe when placed in 
storage. If apples are allowed 
to lie in the sun for a few days 
without being packed, they 

will ripen so much that it is '"'"T'^^t^'or ce'iIT 
very difficult to keep them. 

Cabbages should be kept at a low and uniform tem- 
perature, and water should be drained away from them. 
They are Stored in many ways in the field, but success de- 
pends so much upon the season, particular variety, ripe- 
ness, and the freedom from injuries by fungi and insects, 
that uniform results are rarely secured by any method. The 
best results are to be expected when they can be kept in a 
house which is built for the purpose, in which the tempera- 
ture can be kept uniform and the air fairly moist. When 
Stored out of doors, they are likely to freeze and thaw alter- 
nately; and if the water runs into the heads, mischief is, 
likely to result. Sometimes they are easily Stored by being 
piled into a conical heap on well -drained soil and covered 
with dry straw, and the straw covered with boards. It does 
not matter if they are frosted, provided they do not thaw out 
frequently. Sometimes cabbages are laid head down in a 
shallow furrow plowed in well -drained land, and over them 
is thrown straw, the stumps being allowed to project through 
the cover. It is only in winters of rather uniform tempera- 
ture that good results ai'e to be expected from such methods. 



212 amateur's practical garden -book 

In the storing of all things, especially those which have 
soft and green matter, as cabbages, it is well to provide 
for the heating of the produce. If the things are buried out 
of doors, it is important to put on a very light cover at first 
so that the heat may escape. Cover them gradually as the 
cold weather comes on. This is important with all vegetables 
that are placed in pits, as potatoes, beets and the like. If 
covered deeply at once, they are likely to heat and rot. 
All pits made out of doors should be on well-drained and 
preferably sandy land. 

When vegetables are wanted at intervals during the 
winter from pits, it is well to make compartment pits, 
each compartment holding a wagon load or whatever 
quantity will be likely to be wanted at each time. These 
pits are sunk in well -drained land, and between each 
of the two pits is left a wall of earth about a foot thick. 
One pit can then be emptied in cold weather without in- 
terfering with the others. 

An outside cellar is better than a house cellar in which 
there is a heater, but it is not so handy. If it is near the 
house, it need not be inconvenient, however. A house is 
usually healthier if the cellar is not used for storage. House 
cellars used for storage should have a ventilating shaft. 

Strawberry. The saj ing that Strawberries will 
grow on almost any soil is misleading, although true. 
-^ Some varieties of Strawberries will grow 
^^r.r^'.V^^...^ on certain soils better than other varie- 
ties. What these varieties are can only 
be determined by an actual test, but it is 
a safe rule to select such varieties as 
prove good in many localities. As to 
the methods of culture, so much depends 
strawberries ^^ ^j^^ gj^e of the plot, the purposo for 

which the fruit is wanted, and the amount of care one is 
willing to give, that no set rule can be given for a garden 
in which but few plants are grown and extra care can be 




STRAWBERRY 



213 




Well planted Strawberry 



given. Large fruits and a number of them may be had by 
growing to the single plant, keeping off all runners and 
relying on numerous fruit-crowns on one plant for the 
crop of berries. Or Strawberries may be grown by the nar- 
row matted-row system, in which the 
runners, before rooting, should be 
turned along the rows at a distance of 
from 4 to 6 inches from the parent 
plant. These runners should be the 
first ones made by the plant and should 
not be allowed to root themselves, but 
"set in." This is not a difficult opera- 
tion ; and if the runners are separated 
from the parent plant as soon as they 
become well established, the drain on 
that plant is not great. All other run- 
ners should be cut off as they start. The row should be 
about 12 inches wide at fruiting time. Each plant should 
have sufficient feeding ground, full sunlight, and a firm 
hold in the soil. This matted-row system is perhaps as 
good a method, either in a private garden or field culture, 
as could be practiced. With a little care in hoeing, weed- 
ing and cutting off runners, the beds 
seem to produce as large crops the 
second year as the first. 

The old way of growing a crop 
was to set the plants 10 to 12 inches 
apart, in rows 3 feet apart, and al- 
low them to run and root at will, 
the results being a mass of small, 
crowded plants, each striving to ob- 
tain plant-food and none of them succeeding in getting 
enough. The last, or outside runners, having but the 
tips of their roots in the ground, are moved by the 
wind, heaved by the frost, or have the exposed roots 
dried out bv the wind and sun. 




Pot-grown Strawberry 



214 amateur's practical garden -book 

Ground rich in potash produces the firmest and best 
flavored berries. Excessive use of stable manure, usually 
rich in nitrogen, should be avoided, as tending to make too 
rank growth of foliage and berries of a soft texture. 

Except in the case of a skillful grower in a favored 
locality, the fall setting of plants is not to be recom- 
mended. The preparation of the soil and care of the 
plants more than overbalance the partial crop obtained the 
following spring. 

In the single-plant or hill system the plants should beset 
12 inches apart, in rows 3 feet apart. In the narrow matted 
row system the plants should be set 18 inches apart, in rows 
3X feet apart. The first method requires about 14,000 
plants per acre, the second about 8,000 plants. 

The winter treatment of a Strawberry bed should consist 
in covering the plants, when the ground is frozen, in Novem- 
ber or December, with straw or hay. Salt marsh hay, if ob- 
tainable, is the best, as no weed seeds are introduced. Cover 
the soil and the plants to the depth of 3 to 6 inches. As 
soon as growth begins in spring, rake the mulch off, allow- 
ing it to lie between the rows; or, if the soil is hard or 
weedy, it may be taken off the patch entirely, the ground 
tilled, and then replaced for the purpose of holding moisture 
and keeping the berries clean. 

Usually, Strawberries may be fruited twice or three 
times ; but on rich soil, with extra good care, the first 
crop may be very heavy, and the patch may be plowed 
up thereafter. Some varieties do not produce pollen, and 
not more than two rows of these should be planted without 
a row of a pollen -bearing kind. 

The rust and mildew may be held in check by Bordeaux 
mixture. It is usually sufficient to spray after the blooming 
season (or at any time the first year the plants are set), 
in order to secure healthy foliage for the next year. 

Sunflower { Reliant Jius) . People who know 
only the coarse annual Sunflower are not aware of the 



SUNFLOWER — SWAN RIVER DAISY 



215 





Helianthus 



beauty which it is possible to secure with the herbaceous 
perennials belonging to that family. No border should be 
without a few of the hardy species. 
Their blooming period extends from 
early in August until heavy frost. The 
color runs from light lemon to the 
richest orange, and the range of growth 
from 3 to 10 feet, thus enabling one 
to scatter them through the border 
without any formal arrangement. They 
are of the easiest culture. Plants may 
be dug in the wild or bought of nursery- 
men. The domesticated double 
multiflorus is always valuable. 

Of the annual Sunflowers, there are some 
which are not generally cultivated that should 
receive more attention. The silver-leaved 
species from Texas {H. argojyhyllus), and the 
small, light lemon-yellow variety, are two of 
the best. 

Swainsona. This makes a very de- 
sirable house plant, blooming through the late 
winter and early spring months. The blossoms, 
which resemble those of the pea, 
are borne in long racemes. The 
^^^"* foliage is finely cut, resembling small ' 
locust leaves, and adds to the beauty of the plant, 
the whole effect being exceedingly graceful. It 
may be grown from seed or cuttings. Propagate 
a new stock each year. The flowers are large 
and pure white. The plant has been called 
the "Winter Sweet Pea," but the flowers are 
not fragrant. 

Swan River Daisy (Brachijcome tberidifoUa) is 

a charming little border plant, growing to the height of 12 to 
15 inches, and bearing quantities of blue or white flowers. 




Wild Sunflowe 




Wild Sunflower 



216 amateur's practical garden -book 

The flowers last a long time when cut, and give a vase of 
flowers a light, graceful effect. The seed should be sown 
in boxes, hotbed, or windows ; or, in warm garden soil, the 
seed may be sown where the plants are to stand. Only half 
hardy, and should not be planted out until settled weather. 
Annual. 

Sweet Corn. See Corn. 

Sweet Herbs. The Herb garden should find a 

place on all amateurs' grounds. Herbs may readily be made 
profitable by disposing of the surplus to the green grocer 
and the druggist. The latter wdll often buy all that the 
housewife wishes to dispose of, as the general supply of 
medicinal herbs is grown by specialists, and goes into the 
hands of the wholesaler and is often old when re- 
ceived by the local dealer. The seedsmen's catalogues men- 
tion upwards of forty different Herbs, medicinal and culinary. 
The majority of them are perennial, and will grow for many 
years if well taken care of. However, it is better to resow 
every three or four years. The annual kinds are raised 
from seeds each year. Beds 4 feet square of each of the 
Herbs will supply an ordinary family. 

Sweet Pea. No annual receives greater atten- 
tion these days than the Sweet Pea. Sweet Pea exhibitions 
are held in several sections of the country, the press gives 
considerable space to the discussion of varieties, and the 
l)ublie generally is interested in the growing or buying of 
the flower. On any occasion the Sweet Pea is in place. A 
bouquet of shaded colors, with a few sprays of galium or the 
perennial gypsophila, makes one of the choicest of table 
decorations. Deep, mellow soil, early planting and heavy 
mulching suit them admirably. Sow the seeds as soon 
as the ground is fit to work in the spring, making a drill 5 
inches deep. Sow thickly and cover with 2 inches of soil. 
When the plants have made 2 or 3 inches growth above the 
soil, fill the drill nearly full, leaving a slight depression in 




SWEET PEA — SWEET POTATOES 217 

which water may be caught. After the soil is thoroughly 
soaked with water, a good mulch will hold the moisture. To 
have the ground ready in early spring, it is a good plan to 
trench the soil in the fall. The top of the soil then dries out 
very quickly in the spring and is left in good physical condi- 
tion. Frequent syringing with clear water will 
keep off the red spider that often destroys the 
foliage, and attention to picking the seed pods 
will lengthen the season of bloom. If the finest 
flowers are wanted, do not let the plants stand 
less than 8-12 inches apart. 

A succession of sowings may be made at inter- 
vals through May and June, and a fair fall crop 
obtained if care is taken to water and mulch ; 
but the best results will be secured with the very 
early planting. In the middle and southern states, 
the seed may 'be planted in fall, particularly in 
lighter soils. It is easy to get soils too rich in nitrogen for 
Sweet Peas ; in such case, they will run to vine at the ex- 
pense of flowers. If the plants are watered, apply enough 
to soak the soil, and do not water frequently. 

Sweet Potatoes are grown from sprouts 
planted on ridges or hills, not by planting the tubers, as 
with the common or Irish potato. The method of obtaining 
these sprouts is as follows: In April, tubers of Sweet 
Potatoes are planted in a partially spent hotbed by using the 
whole tuber (or if a large one, by cutting it in two through 
the long way), covering the tubers with 2 inches of light, 
well firmed soil. The sash should be put on the frames and 
only enough ventilation given to keep the Potatoes from de- 
caying. In ten or twelve days the young sprouts should 
begin to appear, and the bed should be watered if dry. The 
sprouts when pulled from the tuber will be found to have 
rootlets at the lower end and along the stems. These 
sprouts should be about 3 to 5 inches long by the time 
the ground is warm enough to plant them out. The ridges 



218 



or hills should be prepared by plowing out a furrow 4 to 6 
inches deep. Scatter manure in the furrow and plow back 
the soil so as to raise the center at least 6 inches above the 
level of the soil. On this ridge the plants are set, placing 
the plants well in to the leaves, and about 12 to 18 inches 
apart in the rows, the rows being from 3 to 4 feet apart. 
The after cultivation consists in stirring the soil between the 
ridges ; and as the vines begin to run they should be 
lifted frequently to prevent rooting at the joints. When the 
tips of the vines have been touched by frost the crop may be 
harvested, the tubers left to dry a few days, and stored in a 
dry, warm place. To keep Sweet Potatoes, store in layers 
in barrels or boxes in dry sand, and keep them in a dry 
room. See that all bruised or chilled potatoes are thrown out. 

Syringing plants with water has two general 
ofi&ces: to clean the plants of pests or of ^dirt; to check 
evaporation or transpiration from the plant itself. 

Gardeners look upon water as a good insecticide. That 
is, if it can be thrown upon the plants somewhat forcibly by 
means of a syringe or pump, or by the hydrant hose, it will 
wash off the insects and drown many of them. The water 
should be applied in a fine and somewhat forcible spray. 
Care should be taken that the plant is not torn or bruised. 
The red spider is one of the most serious pests on house 
plants, and, in a dry season, on plants about the lawn. 
It thrives in a dry atmosphere. It usually lives on the 
under sides of the leaves. Syringing the plants frequently 
will destroy the pests. The thrips and slugs on rose bushes 
can nearly always be kept in check if one can spi'ay or 
syringe his plants frequently. See Spraying. 

Syringing to check transpiration from the foliage is 
very useful with plants which are recently transplanted. 
For instance, when carnations are taken from the field and 
placed in the house, it is well to syringe them occasionally 
until they have become established. The same is true with 
cuttings. 



SYRINGING— TERRACE 219 

In Syringing plants, it is well to take care that the 
ground does not become too wet ; otherwise the plant may 
suffer at its root. In the house, plants should rarely be 
syringed except when the weather is bright, so that they 
may soon dry off. The plant should not go into the night 
with wet foliage. Out of doors in hot weather, it is best to 
syringe toward nightfall. The foliage will ordinarily not 
suffer in such cases. With plants in the house, it is neces- 
sary to keep the leaves dry most of the time in order that 
fungi may not breed. This is true of carnations, which are 
very liable to attacks of the rust. 

Plants are sometimes syringed or sprayed to protect them 
from frost. See Frost. 

Terraces may be desirable for two reasons : 
to hold a very steep slope ; to afford an architectural base 
for a building. 

It is rarely necessary to make a distinct Terrace m the 
lawn. Even if the lawn is very steep, it may be better to 
make a gradual slope than to cut the place in two with a 
Terrace. A Terrace makes a place look smaller. It is al- 
ways difficult to make and to keep 
in repair. The surf ace is not read- .a,^-^^^ 
ily cut with a law^n mower. Unless 
the sod is very dense, the upper 
corner tends to wash off with the . 
rains and the foot tends to fill in. __„j^'^ 

Nature does not have straight banks a slope is better than a terrace 

unless they are rock. The illustra- 
tion in the margin shows how it is possible to treat a 
sloping lawn. In the distance is a distinct, sharp-angled 
Terrace ; but in the foreground this Terrace has been 
carried out into the lawn, so that the slope is an agreeable 
one. 

If it is necessary to Terrace a yard in order to hold it, 
the Terrace would better be at one side rather than in the 
middle. In that case, one is able to secure a good breadth 




220 amateur's practical garden -book 

of lawn. If the Terrace is at the outer side next the street, 
a perpendicular, mason-work, retaining wall may be con- 
structed. If it is on the inner side of the lawn, it may be 
placed close to the building and be made to appear as a 
part of the architecture : it may be made the base of the 
building. If this is done, there should be a balustrade 
around the edge of the Terrace to give it architectural feel- 
ing. The descent from the Terrace to the lawn may be 
made by means of steps, so as to add to the architectural 
aspect of the place. Terraces are most in place about build- 
ings which have many strong horizontal lines ; they do not 
lend themselves so well to buildings in the Gothic style. 
The general tendency is to make too many Terraces. The 
cases are relatively few in which they may not be dispensed 
with. 

Thinning of fruit has four general uses : to 
cause the remaining fruit to grow larger ; to increase the 
chances of annual crops ; to save the vitality of the tree ; 
to enable one to combat insects and diseases by destroying 
the injured fruit. 

The Thinning of fruit is nearly always done soon after 
the fruit is thoroughly set. It is then possible to determine 
which of the fruits are likely to persist. Peaches are usu- 
ally Thinned when they are the size of one's thumb. If 
Thinned before this time, they are so small that it is difficult 
to pick them off ; and it is not so easy to see the work of 
the curculio and thereby to select the injured fruits. Sim- 
ilar remarks will apply to other fruits. The general ten- 
dency is, even with those who Thin their fruits, not to Thin 
enough. It is usually safer to take off what would seem to 
be too many than not to take off enough. The remaining 
specimens are better. Varieties which tend to overbear 
profit very greatly by Thinning. This is notably the case 
with many Japanese plums, which, if not Thinned, are very 
inferior. 

Thinning may also be accomplished by pruning. If one 



THINNING— TILLAGE 221 

knows where the fruit buds are, cutting them off will have 
the effect of removing the fruit. In the case of tender 
fruits, like peaches, however, it may not be advisable to 
Thin very heavily by means of pruning, since the fruit may 
be still further Thinned by the remaining days of winter, 
by late spring frost, or by the leaf- curl or other disease. 
However, the proper pruning of a peach tree in winter is 
in part, a Thinning of the fruit. The peach is borne on the 
wood of the previous season's growth. The best fruits are 
to be expected on the strongest and heaviest growth. It is 
the practice of peach -growers to remove all the weak and 
immature wood from the inside of the tree. This has the 
effect of Thinning out the inferior fruit and allowing the en 
ergy of the tree to be expended on the remainder. Apples 
are rarely Thinned ; but in many cases. Thinning can be 
done with profit. On all home grounds, fruits should be 
Thinned whenever the trees are very full. In general, the 
best time to thin the fruit, as already said, is when the 
fruits have become large enough to be seen and handled. 
The discarded fruits should be burned if they contain insects 
or fungi. 

Thunbergia. Tender climbers, making very 
pretty low screens. They are at their best when 
grown along the ground where the moisture keeps^ 
them free from the attacks of red spider. Some" 
of the kinds are very fine vase or basket plants. 
All may be grown easily from seed. Annuals, 4 
to 6 feet. Flowers white and yellow. 

Tillage. By Tillage is meant the stir- 
ring of the soil. Tillage is the fundamental opera- Thunbergia aiata 
tion in agricultural practice. Most farmers till 
for three reasons : to get the seed into the land ; to keep 
the weeds down; and to get the crop out of the land. The 
real reason for Tillage, however, is to ameliorate the land; 
that is, Tillage makes the soil mellow and fine, and an 
agreeable place in which plants may grow. It enables the 




222 amateur's practical garden -book 

soil to hold moisture, to present the greatest feeding surface 
to roots, to allow the circulation of air, and intensifies many 
chemical activities. Tilling the soil is the first means of 
making it productive. If one understands the many forces 
that are set at work, the Tilling of the soil becomes one of 
the most interesting and exciting of all agricultural opera- 
tions. 

The exact method of Tilling the soil in any particular 
ease must be determined by many circumstances. Light 
soils are handled differentl}^ from heavy soils; and much de- 
pends also upon the season of the year in which the Tillage 
is done. In all ordinary soils, the effort should be made to 
work them deep, so that there is a deep reservoir for the 
storage of moisture and a large area in which roots can 
work. Subsequent Tillage throughout the growing season 
is performed very largely for the purpose of keeping the top 
of the soil loose and fine so that the moisture from beneath 
cannot pass off into the atmosphere. This loose layer of 
soil, extending two or three inches from the surface, may 
itself be very dry ; but it breaks up the capillary connection 
between the lower soil and the air, and thereby prevents 
evaporation. This surface layer of loose, mellow soil is often 
spoken of as the earth-mulch. It answers 
much the same purpose as a mulch of 
straw or leaves in interposing a material 
between the moist soil and the air through 
which the moisture cannot rise. If this 
mulch is repaired as often as it should be, 
weeds cannot grow; but the object of the 
Tilling is more to make and maintain the 
mulch than to destroy weeds. The surface 
should be Tilled shallow in the growing sea- 
For hand Tilling g^^ ^^ ^f^^^ ^g ^^ (.gj^^g ^^ become compact 

or encrusted. This will be after every rain, and usually as 
often as once in ten days when there is no rain. The tools 
to be used for this surface Tillage are those which will com- 




TILLAGE— TOMATO 223 

minute or fine the soil most completely without compacting 
it or leaving it in ridges or in furrows. In garden work, a 
fine rake is the ideal thing; whereas in field work, some 
of the wire-tooth weeders or smoothing harrows are ex- 
cellent. In fields which are hard and lumpy, however, 
it will be necessary to use heavier and rougher tools. 

In order to break down hard clay soils, one must ex- 
ercise great care not to work them when they are wet; 
and also not to work them very much when they are dry. 
There is a time, shortly after a rain, when clay lumps 
will break to pieces with a very slight blow. At this uyiiJtar 
time it is well to go over them with a harrow or a steeirake 
rake. After the next rain, they can be gone over again, 
and before the end of the season the soil should be in fine 
condition. An excellent way of breaking down clay land is 
to plow or spade it in the fall and allow it to weather in 
the winter. In such cases the land should not be raked or 
harrowed, but allowed to lie rough and loose. Very hard 
clay lands sometimes run together or cement if handled in 
this way, but this will not occur if the land has stubble or 
sod or a dressing of manure, for the fibrous matter will then 
prevent it from puddling. Lime sown on clay land at the 
rate of twenty to forty bushels to the acre also has a dis- 
tinct effect in pulverizing it. This may be sown in fall, 
or preferably in spring when the land is plowed. 

One of the most important ways of ameliorating land is 
to work vegetable matter into it so as to give it humus. 
Soils which are loose, black and friable contain much of 
this vegetable mold. In many cases the chief value of 
stable manure is to add this humus to the soil. Many soils 
need humus more than they need plant-food, and hence 
stable manure gives better results in those cases than com- 
mercial fertilizers. The farmer secures the humus by plow- 
ing under stubble and sod, and occasional green crops. 

Tomato. The early fruits are very easily 
grown by starting the plants in a greenhouse, hotbed or in 



224 amateur's practical garden -book 

shallow boxes placed in windows. A pinch of seed sown in 
March will give all the early plants a large family can use. 
When the plants have reached the height of two or three 
inches they should be transplanted into 3-inch flower pots, 
old berry boxes or other receptacles, and allowed to 
grow slow and stocky until time to set them out, which is 
from May 15 on ( in New York) . They should be set in rows 
four or five feet apart, the plants being the same distance in 
the rows. Some support should be given to keep the fruits 
off the ground and to hasten the ripening. A trellis of 
chicken-wire makes an excellent support, as does the light 
lath fencing that may be bought or made at home. Stout 
stakes, with wire strung the length of the 
rows, afford an excellent support. A very 
showy method is that of a frame made like 
an inverted V, which allows the fruits to 
hang free; with a little attention to trim- 
ming, the light reaches the fruits and ripens 
them perfectly. This support is made by 
leaning together two lath frames. The late 
fruits may be picked green and ripened on 
a shelf in the sun; or they will ripen if placed in a drawer. 
One ounce of seed will be enough for from twelve to 
fifteen hundred plants. A little fertilizer in the hill will 
start the plants off quickly. The rot is less serious when 
the vines are kept off the ground and the rampant suckers 
are cut out. 

Tools of many kinds, and well chosen, are 
one of the joys of a garden. There is great satisfaction in 
a well-made, clean tool which does its work well. Keep 
the tools bright. They should be under cover, and in place, 
when not in use. A cupboard may be built by the rear 
porch, or in the barn or carriage house. See that the cup- 
board is in a dry place. Various Tools have been men- 
tioned in the preceding pages, and other useful kinds are 
shown in the article on Weeds. 




TRANSPLANTING— TUBEROSE 225 

Transplanting. This operation the gardener 

calls in one instance "pricking out." This means taking 
young seedling plants from the seed box as soon as they are 
large enough to be handled — usually when the first "rough" 
leaves have developed— and replanting them in other boxes 
or pots, either singly or at a greater distance apart than they 
were when in the seed boxes. The term is used in the 
operation of setting out plants from the hotbed, frame or 
house to the garden; also in removing shrubs or trees. 
Transplant on a cloudy day, and just before a rain, if 
possible. 

Trimming is a term which is ordinarily con- 
founded with pruning (which see ) . The word "Trimming," 
however, should be restricted to the shaping of the trees and 
not to the thinning of the tree or to pruning for wood, fruit 
or other special object. Trimming is only one of the means 
of pruning. Trimming is mostly used in the case of hedges. 
It is also used to keep evergreens in shape. Many orna- 
mental plants are also Trimmed into various forms, although 
it is a question if such Trimming is usually wise. Fruit 
trees should be pruned, as a rule, rather than Trimmed: 
that is, they usually should be allowed to take their natural 
form, the pruner taking out the superfluous wood and keep- 
ing them within manageable bounds. 

Tropseolum. See Nasturtium. 

Tuberose. The Tuberose requires more heat 
to grow to perfection than it is usually possible to give 
here in the North. If planted in the border they will not 
start into growth until the ground has become thoroughly 
warm — usually after the middle of June, — making the season 
before frost too short for their perfect growth and flower. 
However, if started in loose soil or moss in a warm room or 
on benches of a greenhouse, the roots will soon start from 
the tuber and make a fine growth. If planted out in June 
with a good ball of roots they are likely to bloom before 

O 



226 amateur's practical garden -book 

frost. If any danger of frost is feared they may be lifted 
into pots or boxes and taken into the house, when they will 
bloom without a check. As with other bulbs, a sandy soil 
will suit. 

Tuberous Begonia. A large bed of these covered 

with crimson, pink, white, or yellow flowers, ranging from 
2 to 4 and even 6 inches in diameter, some double, some 
single, is a striking sight. Yet such a sight is not uncom- 
mon about the large eastern cities where the Tuberous Be- 
gonia is now used somewhat for bedding. 

Our interior summers are more trying, and so far, few in 
the west have succeeded so well with the Tuberous Begonia 
as a bedding plant. It makes a fine summer-blooming pot- 
plant, however, for the greenhouse or window, and with due 
attention to its requirements, it may be used as a bedding 
plant. It properly falls under greenhouse plants in its re- 
quirements. 

C. L. Allen, writing of its culture in his work on ''Bulbs 
and Tuberous -Eooted Plants," says: "The principal point 
learned in regard to its culture is, that it must be treated as 
a plant and not as a bulb. The enthvisiastic florist, seeing 
the many good qualities of the plant, has 
led amateurs to believe it could be treated 
as a bulb, and planted out in the same man- 
ner as the gladiolus or tigridia and kept 
dormant during the winter in the same 
manner. This is a great mistake, as the 
tubers will not endure as long a period of 
rest and cannot be exposed to the air for a 
long time without seriously injuring their 
Double Tuberous Begonia vitality. The tubcrs uiust be kept in dry 
earth or sand, until they show signs of growth, which will 
be not later than the first of March; then they may be 
started into rapid growth. After the eyes are fully developed 
the tubers may be divided : each eye will make a plant. 
Then they are treated in all respects like greenhouse plants, 





TUBEROUS BEGONIA 227 

and grown on until the proper season for their planting out. 
This is not before the first of June, as Begonias are quite 
sensitive to cold nights, but not at all to heat. At that 
time the plants should be fully 6 inches in height and pro- 
portionately strong. Such plants will make a grand display 
the entire season, rather delighting in great heat." 

In starting the tubers in March, they should be placed 
in moist sand or moss in a temperature of 60° to 65°, either 
in the greenhouse or window. After the buds 
are well started the tubers may be divided 
as pointed out, or planted whole. They 
prefer a rich, rather sandy soil. When 
they are well under way give them all the 
light and air they will bear, and keep 
them close to the glass to avoid " legginess " 
and to insure a firm, sturdy growth. A week 
before planting them out they should be "^"^^rous Begonia, single. 
given abundance of air and light to 'Miarden off" the plants 
preparatory to setting them in sun and wind. 

The beds should be in a somewhat sheltered place where 
they will be partially shaded from the hot midday sun. 
Let the soil be well enriched with old manure or humus and 
thoroughly worked over to a depth of one foot. During dry 
periods the beds will need watering from time to time ; but 
never water them when the sun is shining full on them, or 
the foliage may be scorched. A mulch of leaf-mold or old 
manure will be helpful in keeping the soil moist and the 
roots cool. 

Before frost the tubers should be carefully taken up and 
gradually dried in the shade, after which they are to be 
placed in dry sand or earth, in shallow boxes, and kept till 
time to start them in the spring.. They should be kept 
in a cool place, secure from frost and away from stoves or 
heating pipes. 

For amateurs it is better to recommend buying bulbs of 
the several colors, instead of attempting to grow them from 




228 amateur's practical garden-book 

seeds, which are extremely small and require early sowing, 
warmth and close attention. 

Tulips are hardy and easy to grow. The ad- 
vice given under Bulbs, Crocus and Hyacinth apply to 
Tulips. They may be forced for winter bloom (see 
under Window - Gardens) . The garden bed will last 
several years if well cared for, but most satisfactory 
bloom is secured if the old bulbs are taken up every 
two or three years and replanted, all the inferior ones 
being cast aside. When the stock begins to run 
out, buy anew. Plant in October, 4 to 6 inches 
deep. 

Turnips and Rutabagas are usually a fall 

crop, from seed sown in July and early August, 
although many kitchen gardens have them from spring 
sown seed. The culture is easy. Sow in drills 12 inches 
apart. They will become edible in from six to eight weeks. 
They are cool-weather crops, and the tops stand much 
frost. If maggots bother, do not raise them on the same 
land again for three or four years. Bordeaux mixture 
repels the flea-beetles. One ounce will sow 150 feet of 
drill. 

Varieties. It is usually one of the first desires 

of the intending planter to inquire about Varieties. It is 
one of the secondary things to be considered, however, for 
the first thing to do is to prepare the land, to determine 
whether one's soil and site are adapted to the plant in ques- 
tion, and to discuss other matters of a general nature. 
When all the fundamental things are settled, then the 
question of Varieties, which is a special matter, may be 
taken up. Although the selection of Varieties is a very 
special matter, it is nevertheless essential to success or 
satisfaction in the growing of any plant. 

It should first be considered that the selection of Varieties 
is very largely a personal matter. The man should grow 



VARIETIES— VEGETABLE GARDEN 229 

the Varieties which he likes. This is especially true in the 
selection of Varieties for the home grounds, in which case 
the market ideals enter very little into the problem. Hav- 
ing satisfied one's own mind as to what kinds of Varieties he 
would like, he may then inquire of the neighbors and of ex- 
perts if those V^arieties are adapted to the soil and climate. 
If he intends to grow for market, he should canvass the 
market demands thoroughly before choosing the Varieties. 
The lists of Varieties in books, bulletins, and seedmen's 
catalogues are hints, not rules. As a general statement, it 
may be said that the only way to determine the best variety 
for one's own conditions is to experiment. There is intense 
satisfaction in the experimenting itself. The best lists of 
Varieties are those which are recommended for some specific 
purpose, and which represent the combined opinions of many 
expert growers. It is rare that one man's judgment should 
be final, particularly with respect to fruits or plants which 
are grown in general outdoor conditions. Under glass a 
gardener can make his climate and conditions, and there- 
fore he can adapt his conditions to his plants. The experi- 
ment station test usually represents but one man's opinion. 
It may be a more valuable opinion than that of another man, 
but it is not final. It should be studied in connection with 
other lists, particularly those made by practical growers. If 
one desires to choose Varieties, therefore, he should consult 
the best growers of those plants in his immediate neighbor- 
hood; he should call upon the experiment station of his 
state or province ; and he should consult the most recent 
writings on the subject. 

Vegetable Garden. It is one of the choicest 

of pleasures to raise one's own vegetables. Make the Vege- 
table Garden ample, but economize labor. Plant the things 
in rows, not in beds. Then they can be tilled easily, either 
by horse- or hand-tools. Wheel-hoes will accomplish most 
of the labor of tillage in a small garden. Have the rows 
long, to avoid waste of time in turning and to economize 



230 amateur's practical garden -book 

the land. One row can be devoted to one vegetable; or two 
or more vegetables of like requirements (as parsnips and 
salsify) may comprise a row. Have the permanent vegeta- 
bles, as rhubarb and asparagus, at one side, where they will 
not interfere with the plowing or tilling. The annual vege- 
tables should be grown on different parts of the area in suc- 
ceeding years, thus practicing something like a rotation of 
crops. If radish or cabbage maggots or club-root become 
thoroughly established in the plantation, omit for a year or 
more the vegetables on which they live. 

Make the soil deep, mellow and rich before the seeds are 
sown. Time and labor will be saved. Rake the surface fre- 
quently to [keep down weeds and to prevent the soil from 
baking (see Tillage). Radish seeds sown with celery or 
other slow-germinating seeds will 
' - ' r~rr. Ti come up quickly, breaking the 
-- \ crust and marking the rows. About 

L^ __X-l^i the borders of the Vegetable Gar- 
Lay-out of a (arm Vegetable Garden den is a good place for flowers 

to be grown for the decoration 
of the house and to give to friends. Along one side of 
the area rows of bush fruits may be planted. 

A home Vegetable Garden for a family of six would re- 
quire, exclusive of potatoes, a space not over 100 by 150 
feet. Beginning at one side of the garden and running the 
rows the short way (having each row 100 feet long) sowings 
■ may be made, as soon as the ground is in condition to work, 
of the following: 

Fifty feet each of parsnips and salsify. 
One hundred feet of onions, 25 feet of which may be 
potato or set onions, the balance black- seed for summer and 
fall use. 

Fifty feet of early beets, 50 feet of lettuce, with which 
radish may be sown to break the soil and be harvested be- 
fore the lettuce needs the room. 

One hundred feet of early cabbage, the plants for which 



VEGETABLE GARDEN— VERBENA 231 

should be from a frame or purchased. Set the plants 18 
inches to 2 feet apart. 

One hundred feet of early cauliflower; culture same as 
for cabbage. 

Four hundred and fifty feet of peas, sown as follows: 
100 feet of extra early. 
100 feet of intermediate. 
100 feet of late. 

100 feet of extra early, sown late. 
5(3 feet of dwarf varieties. 
If trellis or brush is to be avoided, frequent sowings of 
the dwarfs will maintain a supply. 

After the soil has become warm and all danger of frost 
has passed, the tender vegetables may be planted, as 
follows: 

Corn in five rows 3 feet apart, thre«^ rows to be early and 
intermediate, and two rows late. 

One hundred feet of string beans, early to late varieties. 
Vines as follows : 

10 hills of cucumbers, 6x6 feet. 
20 hills of muskmelon, 6x6 feet. 
6 hills of early squash, 6x6 feet. 
10 hills of Hubbard, 6x6 feet. 
One hundred feet of okra. 
Twenty eggplants. 
Six large clumps of rhubarb. 
An asparagus bed 25 feet long and 3 feet wide. 
Late cabbage, cauliflower and celery are to occupy the 
space made vacant by removing early crops of early and in- 
termediate peas and string beans. 

A border on one side or end will hold all herbs, such as 
parsley, thyme, sage, hyssop, mints. 

Verbena. The Verbena is one of the most 

satisfactory garden plants, blooming early. Bloom continues 
through the dry, hot days of summer. As the cool weather 
of the fall comes on, Verbenas increase in size of plant 




232 amateur's practical garden -book 

and flower until killed by severe frost. Plants grown from 
seed sown in a hotbed or house early in the spring, trans- 
planted into pots or boxes when large enough, and planted 
out as soon as the ground has become warm, are more vigor- 
ous and seem to have more fragrance than those grown from 
cuttings. Many of the strains have become so well fixed 
that the colors come true from seed. Cut- 
tings are often employed, but the handling 
of stock plants is a difficult matter except 
in the hands of a professional, and when 
plants are wanted in quantity it is cheaper 
to buy them of the plantsman than to 
grow them from seed or attempt to keep 
over stock plants. Therefore, for the home garden, seed- 
grown plants are usually most satisfactory. Give a sunny 
position. Thin to 10 to 15 inches apart each way. 

Vinca, or Periwinkle. Trailing" plants. Useful 

in covering unsightly places, for vases, urns or baskets. 
Some of the species (as the common evergreen, mat-like 
"running myrtle") are hardy, but the most useful ones need 
the protection of a house through the winter. The varie- 
gated-leaved kinds are fine for winter decorations. Propa- 
gated mostly by cuttings. Perennials. 

Vines. The use of Vines for screens and 
pillar decorations has increased in the last decade until now 
they may be seen in nearly all grounds. The tendency has 
been towards using the hardy Vines, of which the ampe- 
lopsis, or Virginia creeper, is one of the most common. It is 
a very rapid grower, and lends itself to training more readily 
than many others. The Japan ampelopsis {A. tricuspidata 
or Feitchii) is a fine clinging Vine, growing very rapidly 
when once established, and being brilliantly colored after 
the first fall frosts. It clings closer than the other, but is 
not so hardy. Either of these may be grown from cuttings 
or division of the plants. Two woody twiners of recent 
introduction are the actinidia and the akebia, both from 



VINES 



233 



Japan, They are perfectly hardy, and are rapid growers. 
The former has large, thick, glossy leaves, not affected by 
insects or disease, growing thickly along the stem and 
branches, making a perfect thatch of leaves. 
It blooms in June. The flowers, which are 
white with a purple center, are borne in clus- 
ters, followed by round or longish edible fruits. 
The akebia has very neat cut foliage, quaint 
purple flowers, and often bears ornamental 
fruit. Other hardy Vines are the wistaria, 
clematis, tecoma (or trumpet -flower), aris- 
tolochia (or Dutchman's pipe), hedera (or ivy), 
and loniceras (or honeysuckles). 

Of the tender Vines, the nasturtiums and 
ipomeas are the most common, while the 
adlumia(p. 3), balloon vine (p. 28), passion 
vine, and the gourds (p. 115), are frequently 
used. One of the best of recent introduction 
is the annual hop, especially the variegated 
variety. This is a very rapid growing Vine, seeding itself 
each year, and needing little care. See Hop. All the 
tender Vines should V)e planted after all danger of frost 
is over. 




A vine support for 



Tendril-cUiahers 
Adlumia (biennial) 
Balloon Vine. 
Cobea. 
Gourds. 
Nasturtiums. 
Sweet Pea. 
Wild Cucumber , 



ANNUAL HERBACEOUS CLIMBERS 

Tiviners 

Beans, Flowering. 

Cypress Vine. 

Doliehos. 

Hop, Japanese. 

Ipomea. 

Moonflower. 

Morning-glory. 

Thunbergia. 

Yam, Chinese, or Cinnamon 

Vine (perennial from a hardy 

tuber j . 



234 amateur's practical garden -book 



PERENNIAL WOODY CLIMBERS FOR THE OPEN 

Twiners 
Actinidia polygama. 
Akebia quinata. 
Aristolochia, or Dutchman's 

Pipe. 
Bittersweet, or Celastrus. 
Honeysuckles. 
Moonseed. 
Wistaria. 



Tendril-climbers 
Ampelopsis tricuspidata. 
Clematis of many kinds. 
Grape of various kinds. 
Greenbrier. 
Ivy (by roots). 
Roses (scramblers). 
Trumpet Creeper (by roots) 
Virginia Creeper. 



Violet. While the culture of Violets as house- 
plants rarely proves successful, there is no reason why a 
good supply may not be had elsewhere through the greater 
part of the winter and the spring months. A sheltered lo- 
<^ A cation being selected, young plants from runners 
may be set in August or September. Have the 
ground rich and well drained. These plants will 
make fine crowns by December, and often will 
bloom before weather sufficiently cold to freeze 
them. In order to have flowers through the 
winter, it will be necessary to afford some pro- 
tection to the plants. This niay best be done 
by building a frame of boards large enough to 
cover the plants, making the frame in the same 
way as for a hotbed, four to six inches higher 
at the back than the front. Cover the frame 
with sash or boards, and as the weather be- 
comes severe, mats or straw should be placed over 
and around the frame to protect the plants from 
freezing. Whenever the weather will permit, 
the covering should be removed and air admitted, 
but no harm will come if the frames are not dis- 
turbed for several weeks. A large amount of sunlight and 
a high temperature through the middle of winter are to 
be avoided, for if the plants are stimulated a shorter 




VIOL KT— WALKS 235 

period of bloom will result. In April the frame may- 
be removed, the plants yielding the later part of the crop 
without protection. Violets belong with the "cool" plants 
of florists. When well hardened off, considerable frost does 
not harm them. They should always be kept stocky. Start a 
new lot from runner-plants each year. They thrive in a 
temperature of 55° to 65°. 

Walks. The place for a Walk is where it is 
needed. It should go directly between two points. It need 
not be straight, but if it is curved, the curve should be 
direct. That is, the pedestrian should be conscious that he 
is going in the direction in which he desires to go, and is 
not making a detour for the simple purpose of following the 
walk. Convenience should be the first thing to be con- 
sidered. After the Walks have been laid in the most con- 
venient places, the question of ornamenting the borders may 
be considered. It is always well to avoid, so far as possible, 
the bisecting of lawns by Walks, as that makes two lawns 
where there should be only one. The larger a greensward 
can be made to look, the more park -like and natural is the 
place. Avoid taking the Walks circuitously around the 
borders unless they are laid for the simple purpose of mak- 
ing a ramble to show off the grounds. All Walks which are 
designed for serious use should appear to be necessary, 
direct and convenient. 

Some soils which contain considerable loam and sand will 
pack with tramping and will make good Walks, but it is 
usually necessary to lay some material on the soil. Gravel, 
cinders, and the like, may be better than the natural sur- 
face; but in many cases they are worse, since the surface 
is loose and is unpleasant to walk on. In Walks which 
are on decided slopes, and down which the water is likely to 
run, any loose material is very objectionable, since it runs to 
the low places. The best material for Walks, all things 
considered, is cement, or what is called artificial stone. If 
well made, it is as durable as flagging, and is not so likely to 



236 amateur's practical garden -book 

get out of place. It holds its surface perfectly year 
after year. 

The only objection to cement Walks is when they are 
more or less temporary, for in such cases they cannot be 
moved. There is often very serious difficulty in securing 
good cement Walks, but the difficulties are easily overcome. 
They are chiefly two : there is not sufficient draining ma- 
terial beneath the cement; and the cement itself is not made 
strong enou,<yh. There should be at least a foot of loose 
material, as brickbats or cinders, below the cement cover; 
and if the place is low and likely to hold water, there should 
be still greater drainage. Pound the material down, or let it 
stand for some time until it becomes thoroughly settled 
together. Then lay the cement in two courses. The first 
course may be three or four inches thick and made of well 
mixed mortar, comprising three parts Portland cement, 
one part water lime, and two to three times as much sharp 
sand as Portland. When this has become partially hard- 
ened, but before it is set and while still moist, put on a 
finishing layer of one inch, made of one part Portland 
cement, one part water lime, and one part sharp sand. It is 
important that the materials be very thoroughly mixed. See 
that the edges of the walk are made square and true by lay- 
ing down a form of boards lengthwise the area before the 
cement is put on. The edges should be as thick as the 
middle, for a thin crust on the edge tends to snap off. A 
walk made in this way on a well -drained foundation will last 
almost indefinitely. It is best that it be made in such sea- 
son that it can become thoroughly set before frosty weather 
comes. 

Wallflower. A favorite plant for pots or gar- 
den, having a clove-like fragrance. Seed of most varieties 
should be sown the year before wanted. One kind, being an 
annual, will flower the same season the seed is sown. Hardy. 
Two to 3 feet. 

Washing orchard trees is an old practice. It 



WASHING— WATERING 237 

usually results in making a tree more vigorous. One reason 
is that it destroys insects and fungi which lodge underneath 
the bark; but probably the chief reason is that it softens the 
bark and allows the trunk to expand. It is possible, also, 
that the potash from the soap or lye eventually passes into 
the ground and affords some plant -food. Trees are ordi- 
narily Washed with soap suds or with a lye solution. The 
material is usually applied with an old broom or a stiff 
brush. The scrubbing of the tree is perhaps nearly or quite 
as beneficial as the application of the wash itself. 

It is customary to wash trees late in spring or early in 
summer, and again in the fall, with the idea that such Wash- 
ing destroys the eggs and the young of borers. It no doubt 
will destroy borers if they are just getting a start, but it will 
not keep away the insects which lay the eggs, and will not 
destroy the borers which have found their way underneath 
the bark. It is perhaps quite as well to wash the trees very 
early in the spring, when they are starting into growth. It 
is an old practice to wash trees with strong lye when they 
are affected with the oyster- shell bark louse. The modern 
method of treating these pests, however, is to spray with 
some kerosene compound when the young growth is starting, 
for at that time the young insects are migrating to the new 
wood and they are very easily destroyed. 

Watering House Plants. It is impossible to 
give rules for the Watering of plants. Conditions that hold 
with one grower are different from those of another. Advice 
must be general. Give one good Watering at the time of 
potting, after which no water should be given until the plants 
really need it. If, on tapping the pot, it gives out a clear 
ring, it is an indication that water is needed. In the case of 
a soft-wooded plant, just before the leaves begin to show 
signs of wilt, is the time for Watering. When plants are 
taken up from the ground, or when plants have their roots 
cut back in repotting, gardeners rely, after the first copious 
Watering, on syringing the tops of the plants two or three 




238 amateur's practical garden -book 

times each day, until a new root- growth has started, Watering 
at the roots only when absolutely necessary. Plants that 
have been potted into larger pots will grow without the extra 
attention of syringing, but those from the borders, that have 
had their roots mutilated or shortened, should be placed in a 
cool, shady spot and be syringed often. One 
soon becomes familiar with the wants of indi- 
vidual plants, and can judge closely as to need 
of water. All soft -wooded plants with a large 
leaf- surface need more water than hard- wooded 
plants, and a plant in luxuriant growth of any 
enngpo kind more than a plant that has been cut back 

or become defoliated. When plants are growm in living- 
rooms, moisture must be supplied from some source, and if 
no arrangement has been made for having a moist air the 
plants should be syringed often. See Syringing. 

Watermelon. The culture of this is essen- 
tially the same as that for muskmelons (which see), except 
that most varieties require a warmer place and longer period 
of growth. Give the hills a distance of from 6 to 10 feet 
apart. Choose a warm, "quick" soil and sunny exposure. 
It is essential, in the North, that the plants grow rapidly and 
come into bloom early. One ounce of seed will plant 
thirty hills. 

Wax Plant. The Wax Plant, or Hoya, is 

one of the commonest of window-garden plants, and yet it 
is one which people usually have difficulty in flowering. 
However, it is one of the easiest plants to manage if a per- 
son understands its nature. It is naturally a summer-bloom- 
ing plant, and should rest during the winter time. In the 
winter, keep it just alive in a cool and rather dry place. If 
the temperature does not go above 50° Fahr., so much 
the better ; neither should it go much lower. In late winter 
or spring, the plant is brought out to warm temperature, 
given water and started into growth. The old flower -stems 



WAX PLANT— WINDBREAKS 



239 




Potato hook and 
weed-puller 




should not be cut off, since new flowers come from them as 
well as from the new wood. When it is brought out to be 
started into growth, it may be repotted, sometimes into a 
size larger pot, but always with more or less fresh earth 
The plant should increase in value each year. In 
conservatories, it is sometimes planted out in the 
ground and allowed to run over a wall, in which 
case it will reach a height of many feet. 

Weeds. Many very strong Weeds 
are a compliment to one's soil: only good soil 
produces them. But they are not a compli- 
ment to one's tillage. If the soil is well pre- 
pared and well tilled to conserve moisture and 

to unlock plant-food (see Tillage), Weeds will 
find little chance of growing. Stir the ground 
often: it benefits the ground and keeps out 
'the Weeds. Plant vegetables in long straight 
rows rather than in beds, for thereby tillage is 
made easier. . For beds and for small plants, 
the hand-weeders (as shown in the margin) are very effi- 
cient. They save laborious finger- work. Weed seeds are 
often distributed in manure, especially if Weeds have been 
allowed to grow and ripen on the piles. See 
that pernicious Weeds do not seed about the 
premises. For the treatment of weedy lawns, 
see the article Laiois. 

Windbreaks. There is the greatest 
difference of opinion as to the value of Wind- 
breaks for fruit plantations. These differ- 
ences arise from the fact that a Windbreak 
may be of great benefit in one place, but a disadvantage 
in another. It is always advisable to break the force of 
very strong winds, for such winds tend to injure the trees 
when laden with fruit or ice, and they blow off the fruit; 
and in dry countries they cause the soil to become parched. 
If the wind is usually warmer than the area, however, par- 



Finger-weeder 




Trowel and angle-weeder 



240 amateur's practical garden -book 

ticularly in the winter time, it is better not to stop it, but to 
allow it to circulate through the plantation. This is the case 
in areas which lie close to large bodies of water. The wind 
coming off the water is warmer than that off the land, and 
tends thereby to protect the fruit plantation from severe cold. 
A circulation of air is desirable in late spring and early fall 
in order to avoid the still frosts. Therefore, if the area is 
very closely surrounded by dense plantations, it may have 
what the fruit-growers call "stagnant air;" but thinning out 
the Windbreak on one or two sides, or cutting holes through 
it, may allow the air to move through, thereby affording at- 
mospheric drainage and insuring greater immunity from 
the light local frosts. 

It is ordinarily better to break the force of the winds than 
to stop or deflect them. That is, the Windbreak may be thin 
enough to allow the wind to take its normal direction, but its 
force is broken. A stone wall or a very dense hedge of 
evergreens may cause the wind to rise over the plantation or 
to be deflected to one side; and this, in many cases, as al- 
ready said, may be a decided disadvantage. The philosophy of 
a good Windbreak for fruit plantations may be summed up in 
this way : the force of heavy winds should be broken ; 
warm winds should be allowed to circulate freely through 
the plantation; still air should be avoided. 

Ordinarily, one or two rows of deciduous trees are suffi- 
cient protection. Wlien the plantation is very much ex- 
posed to very cold or land winds, a thick evergreen screen 
may be a decided advantage. It is usually better to have 
the heavy Windbreak on the upper side of the area, so that it 
may not interfere with the natural drainage of the cold air 
down the slope. In making a Windbreak, it is important 
that those trees be chosen which will not become harboring 
places for orchard enemies. The wild cherry, for example, 
is inveterately attacked by the tent caterpillar, and the wild 
crabs and wild plums are likely to breed orchard insects. If 
the Windbreak is planted some time in advance of the 



WINDBREAKS — WINDOW - GARDENS 241 

orchard, the row of fruit trees next the Windbreak will be 
very likely to suffer from lack of moisture and food. 

A different type of Windbreak is that which is desired for 
a shelter belt about the home grounds. The matter of at- 
mospheric drainage does not enter into this problem to any 
great extent. Such shelter belt is usually placed at the ex- 
treme edge of the home yard, toward the heaviest or pre- 
vailing wind. It may be a dense plantation of evergreens. 
If so, the Norway spruce is one of the best for general pur- 
poses. For a lower belt, the arborvitae is excellent. Some 
of the pines, as the Scotch or Austrian, are also to be ad- 
vised, particularly if the belt is at some distance from the 
residence. As a rule, the coarser the tree the farther it 
should be placed from the house. 

Persons may desire to use the Windbreak as a screen to 
hide undesirable objects. If these objects are of a perma- 
nent character, as a barn or an unkempt property, evergreen 
trees should be used. For temporary screens, any of the 
very large -growing herbaceous plants may be used. Very 
excellent subjects are sunflowers, the large- growing nico- 
tianas, castor beans, large varieties of Indian corn, and 
plants of like growth. Very efficient summer screens may 
be made with ailanthus, paulownia, basswood, sumac, and 
other plants which tend to throw up succulent shoots from 
the base. After these plants have been set a year or two, 
they are cut back nearly to the ground every winter or 
spring, and strong shoots are thrown up with great luxu- 
riance during the summer, giving a dense screen and pre- 
senting a semi-tropical effect. For such purposes, the roots 
should be planted only two or three feet apart. If, after a 
time, the roots become so crowded that the shoots are weak, 
some of the plants may be removed. Top-dressing the area 
every fall with manure will tend to make the ground rich 
enough to afford a very heavy summer growth. 

Wind Flower. See Anemone. 

Window-Gardens. The Summer Window- 



242 amateur's practical garden -book 




A summer window ledge 



Garden. — This type of gardening is particularly suited to 
those who live in the crowded city, where the want of other 
space makes the Window- Garden the only one possible. 

Handsomely finished boxes, ornamental tiling, and 
bracket work of wood and iron suitable for fitting out win- 
dows for the growing of plants, are on the market; but such, 
while desirable, are by no means necessary. A stout pine 
box of a length corresponding to the width of 
the window, about 10 inches wide and 6 deep, 
answers quite as well as a finer box, since it 
will likely be some distance above the street 
and its sides, moreover, are soon covered by the 
vines. A zinc tray of a size to fit into the 
wooden box may be ordered of the tinsmith. 
It will tend to keep the soil from drying out so 
rapidly, but it is not a necessity. A few small 
holes in the bottom of the box will provide 
for drainage; but with carefulness in water- 
ing these are not necessary, since the box by 
its exposed position will dry out readily during summer 
weather, unless the position is a shaded one. In the 
latter case provision for good drainage is always advisable. 

Since there is more or less cramping of roots, it will 
be necessary to make the soil richer than would be required 
were the plants to grow in the garden. The most desirable 
soil is one that does not pack hard like clay, no;- contract 
much when dry, but remains porous and springy. Such a 
soil is found in the potting soil used by florists, and it may 
be obtained from them at from 50 cts. to $1 a barrel. Often 
the nature of the soil will be such as to make it desirable 
to have at hand a barrel of sharp sand for mixing with the 
soil, to make it more porous and prevent baking. 

Some pot the plants and then set them in the window- 
box, filling the spaces between the pots with moist moss. 
Again, they are planted directly in the soil. The former 
method, as a general rule, is to be preferred in the winter 
Window -Garden; the latter during the summer. 



WINDOW -GARDENS 243 

The plants most valuable for the purpose are those of 
drooping habit, such as lobelias, tropaeolums, Othonna 
crassifoUa, Kenilworth ivy, and sweet alyssum. Such 
plants may occupy the front row, while back of them may be 
the erect-growing plants, like geraniums, heliotropes, 
begonias, etc. 

Just what plants will be most suitable will depend on 
the exposure. For the shady side of the street, the more 
delicate kinds of plants may be used. For full exposure to 
the sun, it will be necessary to select the more vigorous- 
growing kinds. In the latter position, suitable plants for 
drooping would be: *tropaeolums, *passifloras, the single 
petunias, sweet alyssum, lobelias, verbenas, mesembry- 
anthemums. For erect-growing plants: geraniums, helio- 
tropes, etc. If the position is a shaded one, the drooping 
plants might be of the following : tradeseantia, Kenilworth 
ivy, *senecio or parlor ivy, sedums, ^moneywort, vinca, 
^smilax, *lygodium or climbing fern. Erect-growing 
plants would be dracasnas, palms, ferns, coleus, centaurea, 
spotted calla, and others. 

For shady situations the main dependence is upon plants 
of graceful form or handsome foliage ; while for the sunny 
window the selection may be of blooming plants. Of the 
plants above mentioned for these two positions, those 
marked with an asterisk (*) are of climbing habit, and may 
be trained up about the sides of the window. Others will be 
found among the climbing plants mentioned under Vines, 
Annuals and Basket Plants. 

After the plants have filled the earth with roots, it will be 
desirable to give the surface of the soil among the plants a 
very light sprinkling of bone-dust or a thicker coating of 
rotted manure from time to time during the summer; or in- 
stead of this, a watering with weak liquid manure about 
once a week. This is not necessary, however, until the 
growth shows that the roots have about exhausted the soil. 

In the fall the box may be placed on the inside of the 



244 amateur's practical garden -book 

window. In this ease it will be desirable to thin out the 
foliage somewhat, shorten in some of the vines, and per- 
haps remove some of the plants. It will also be desirable to 
give a fresh coating of rich soil. Increased care will be 
necessary, also, in watering, since the plants will have less 
light than previously, and, moreover, there may be no pro- 
vision for drainage. 

The Winter Window -Garden may consist simply of a jar- 
diniere, or a few choice pot-plants on a stand at the window, 
or of a considerable collection, with more or less elaborate 
arrangements for their accommodation in the way of box, 
brackets, shelves and stands. Expensive arrangements 
are by no means necessary, nor is a large collection. The 
plants and flowers themselves are the main consideration, 
and a small collection well cared for is better than a large 
one unless it can be easily accommodated and kept in 
good condition. 

The window for plants should have a southern, south- 
eastern or eastern exposure. Plants need all the light they 
can get in the winter, especially those which are ex- 
pected to bloom. The window should be tight- fitting. 
Shutters and a curtain will be an advantage in cold 
weather. 

Plants like a certain uniformity in conditions. It is very 
trying on them, and often fatal to success, to have them snug 
and warm one night and shivering in a temperature only 
a few degrees above freezing the next. Some plants will 
live in spite of it, but they cannot be expected to prosper. 
Those whose rooms are heated with steam, hot water or hot 
air will have to guard against keeping rooms too warm 
fully as much as keeping them too cool. Rooms in brick 
dwellings that have been warm all day, if shut up and made 
snug in the evening will often keep warm over night with- 
out heat except in the coldest weather. Rooms in frame 
dwellings, and exposed on all sides, soon cool down. 

It is difficult to grow plants in rooms lighted by gas, as 



WINDOW -GARDENS 245 

the burning gas vitiates the atmosphere. Most living-rooms 
have t®o dry air for plants. In such eases the bow window 
may be set off from the room by glass doors ; one then has a 
miniature conservatory. 

While keeping the plants at a suitable temperature, we 
must not forget that plants love moisture, or a humid atmos- 
phere, and that our living-rooms ordinarily are very dry. A 
pan of water on the stove or on the register and damp moss 
among the pots, will afford plants the necessary humidity. 

The foliage will need cleansing from time to time to free 
it from dust. A bath tub provided with 
a ready outlet for the water is an excel- 
lent place for this purpose. The plants 
may be turned on their sides and sup- 
ported on a small box above the bottom 
of the tub. Then they may be freely 
syringed without danger of making the 
soil too wet. It is usually advisable not 
to wet the flowers, however, especially 
the white waxen kinds, like hyacinths. 
The foliage of Rex begonias should be 
cleansed with a piece of dry or only ^ a window-box 
slightly moist cotton. But if the leaves 
can be quickly dried off by placing them in the open air 
on mild days, or moderately near the stove, the foliage may 
be syringed. 

The window-box in the room will be seen near at hand, 
so may be more or less ornamental in character. The sides 
may be covered with ornamental tile held in place by mould- 
ing; or a light lattice-work of wood surrounding the box 
is pretty. But a neatly made and strong box of about the 
dimensions mentioned on page 242, with a strip of moulding 
at the top and bottom, answers just as well; and if painted 
green, or some neutral shade, only the plants will be seen or 
thought of. Brackets, jardinieres and stands may be pur- 
chased of any of the larger florists. 



1 I' 




IJ4,I 


/ ^ ^!^l||l| 






^^^^/ M 









246 amateur's practical garden -book 



Tlie window-box may consist of merely the wooden box; 
but a preferable arrangement is to make it about eight 
inches deep instead of six, then have the tinsmith make a 
zinc tray to fit the box. This is provided with a false 
wooden bottom, with cracks for drainage, two inches 
above the real bottom of the tray. The plants will then 
have a vacant space below them into which drainage water 
may pass. Such a box may be thoroughly watered as the 
plants require without danger of the water running on the 
carpet. Of course, a faucet should be provided at some 
suitable point on a level with the bottom of the tray, to 
permit of its being drained every day or so if the water 
tends to accumulate. It would not do to allow the water to 
remain long; especially should it never rise to the false 
bottom, as then the soil would be kept too wet. 

Some persons attach the liox to the window, or support it 
on brackets attached below the window-sill; Init a prefer- 
able arrangement is to support the box on a low and light 
stand of suitable height provided with rollers. It may then 
be drawn back from the window, turned around from time to 
time to give the plants light on all sides, or turned with the 
handsome side in as may be desired, and so on. 

Often the plants are set directly in the soil ; but if they 
are kept in pots they may be rearranged, changed about to 
give those which need it more light, etc. Larger plants 
which are to stand on shelves or brackets may be in porous 
earthenware pots; but the smaller ones which are to fill the 
window-box may be placed in heavy paper pots. The sides 
of these are flexible, and the plants in them therefore may 
be crowded close together with great economy in space. 
When pots are spaced, damp sphagnum or other moss among 
them will hold them in place, keep the soil from drying out 
too rapidly, and at the same time give off moisture, so 
grateful to the foliage. 

In addition to the stand, or box, a bracket for one or 
more pots on either side of the window, about one -third or 



WINDOW - GARDENS 247 

half way up, will be desirable. The bracket should turn ou 
a basal hinge or pivot, to admit of swinging it forward or 
backward. These bracket plants usually suffer for moisture, 
and are rather difficult to manage. 

Florists now usually grow plants suitable for Window- 
G-ardens and winter flowering, and any intelligent florist, if 
asked, will take pleasure in making out a suitable collec- 
tion. The plants should be ordered early in the fall; the 
florist will then not be so crowded for time and can give the 
matter better attention. 

Most of the plants suitable for the winter Window- Garden 
belong to the groups which florists grow in their medium and 
cool houses. The former are given a night temperature of 
about 60°, the latter about 50°. In each ease the temperature 
is 10 to 15° higher for the daytime. Five degrees of varia- 
tion below these temperatures will be allowable without any 
injurious effects; even more may be borne, but not without 
more or less check to the plants. In bright, sunny weather 
the day temperature may be higher than in cloudy and 
dark weather. 



PLANTS FOR AN AVERAGE NIGRT TEMPERATURE 

OF 6(P 

Upright floivering plants. — Abutilons, browallias, cal- 
ceolaria "Lincoln Park," begonias, bouvardias, euphorbias, 
scarlet sage, richardia or calla, heliotropes, fuchsias, 
Chinese hibiscus, jasmines, single petunias, swainsona, 
billbergia, freesias, geraniums, cupheas. 

Upright foliage plants. — Muehlenbeckia, Cycas revoluta, 
Dracaena fragrans and others, palms, cannas, Farfugium 
grandCy achyranthes, ferns, araucaria, epiphyllums, pan- 
danus or "screw pine," Pilea arborea, Ficus elastica, 
Grevillea rohusta. 

Climbing plants. — Asparagus tenuissimus, A. plumosus, 
Cobwa scandens, smilax, Japanese hop, Madeira vine (Bous- 



248 amateur's practical garden -book 

singaultia), Senecio mikanioides and R. macroglossns (parlor 
ivies). See also list below. 

Loiv-groioing, trailing, or drooping plants. — These may be 
used for baskets and edgings. Flowering kinds are: Sweet 
alyssiim, lobelia, Fuchsia procumhens, mesembryanthemiim, 
Oxalis pendula, O. florihunda and others, Busselia juticea, 
Mahernia odorata or honey -bell. 

Foliage plants o-f drooping hahit . — Vineas, Saxifraga sar- 
mentosa, Kenilworth ivy, tradescantia or Wandering Jew, 
^Festnca glauca, othonna, *7.w/^jm.§ gracilis, English ivy, 
Selaginella denticnlata and others. Some of these plants 
flower quite freely, but the flowers are small and of sec- 
ondary consideration. Those with an asterisk (*) droop but 
slightly. 

PLANTS FOR AN AVE RAGE NIGHT TEMPERATURE 
OF 50° 

Upright floivering plants. — Azaleas, cyclamens, carna- 
tions, chrysanthemums, geraniums, Chinese primroses, 
stevia, marguerite or Paris daisy, single petunias, Antliemis 
coronaria, camellias, ardisia (berries), cineraria, violets, 
hyacinths, narcissus, tulips, the Easter lily when in bloom, 
and others. 

Upright foliage plants. — Pittosporum, palms, aucuba, 
euonymus (golden and silvery variegated), araucaria, pan- 
danus, dusty miller. 

Climhing plants. — English ivy, maurandia, seneeio or 
parlor ivy, lygodium (climbing fern). 

Drooping or trailing plants. — Flowering kinds are : Sweet 
alyssum, Mahernia odorata, Russelia and ivy geranium. 

Bulhs in the Window - Garden . — The single Roman hya- 
cinth is an excellent house plant. Its flowers are small, but 
they are graceful and especially well suited for cutting. The 
bulbs are easily forced, and are managed like other hya- 
cinths. The secret of forcing the Dutch bulbs and most 
others is to pot them and then, after watering the pots, 



WINDOW - GARDENS 



249 




set them away in a cool, dark place until the pot is filled 

with roots. They may be placed in the cellar "to root up," 

or be buried 3 or 4 inches deep in the soil. It is well to 

delay potting them until such time as 

they can be kept cool while forming 

their roots. A temperature of about 40° 

to 45° suits them during this period. In 

most cases it is well to select pots 5 or 6 

inches in diameter and place from three 

to six bulbs in a pot, according to the 

size of the bulbs and the plants. The 

pot having been filled with soil, it is only 

necessary to press them down till the 

tip, or about one-fourth, shows above 

the soil. After this a slight jarring or 

sharp rap will settle the soil. They are 

then watered and set away, as before 

mentioned. If kept dark and cool they 

will need no more watering until they 

are brought out and begin to grow, when they may be 

watered freely. 

Hyacinths, tulips and narcissus all require about the 
same treatment. When well rooted, which will be in six or 
eight weeks, they are brought out and given a temperature 
of some 55° to 60° till the flowers appear, when they should 
be kept in a cooler temperature, say 50°. 

The Easter lily is managed the same way, only, to hasten 
its flowers, it should be kept at not lower than 60° at 
night. Warmer will be better. Lilies may be covered an 
inch or more deep. 

Freesias may be potted six or more in a pot of mellow 
soil, and then started into growth at once. At first they 
might be given a night temperature of 50°, and 55° to 60° 
when they have begun to grow. 

Bulbs like the snowdrop and crocus are planted several 
or a dozen in a pot and buried, or treated like hyacinths ; 



Window-garden 



250 amateur's practical garden -book 

but they are very sensitive to heat, and require only to be 
given the light when they have started to grow, without any 
forcing. Forty to 45° will be as warm as they ever need be 
kept. See the article on Bulbs; also, the advice given for 
the various plants under their respective names. 

Pesis. — Window- Garden pests are discussed under Insects. 

Winter-killing is induced by a late fall growth, 
and also by a dry, unprotected soil. All tender woody plants 
should be well ripened before cold weather comes: cease 
tillage early : do not apply stimulating manures late in the 
season. Mulch all tender or half hardy plants (see Mulch). 
Even hardy plants are benefited by a mulch. When pos- 
sible, it is better to bend plants to the ground and cover 
them than to wrap them up as they stand ; but this cannot 
be done with tall or stiff subjects. Wrapping in straw or 
burlaps affords excellent protection, but it is possible to 
wrap too heavily. A barrel, less the heads, may be set over 
small plants and then filled with leaves or other loose litter ; 
or a cylinder of wire chicken -screen may be substituted for 
the barrel. Remove the protection in the spring before the 
buds start. See that mice do not nest in the barrel or 
in the mulch. 

Zinnia. Showy hardj' annuals. The old for- 
mal type of Zinnias has given place to a race of freer forms 
which are excellent plants either for color effect or for 
cutting. The colors have been varied and brightened, the 
flowers doubled and the plants dwarfed. Seed should be 
sown in a hotbed or house in March, transplanted once at 
least before planting out, and set in well enriched soil. Or, 
the seed may be sown where the plants are to grow. The 
tall varieties (3 feet) should stand 18 to 24 inches apart. 
These are best for masses at a distance. 



The Best and Newest 
Rural Books 



BOOKS ON LEADING TOPICS 
CONNECTED WITH AGRI- 
CULTURAL AND RURAL 
LIFE ARE HERE MENTIONED. 
EACH BOOK IS THE WORK 
OF A SPECIALIST, UNDER THE 
EDITORIAL SUPERVISION OF 
PROFESSOR L. H. BAILEY, OF 
THE CORNELL UNIVERSITY, 
OR BY PROFESSOR BAILEY 
HIMSELF, AND IS READABLE, 
CLEAR-CUT AND PRACTICAL. 



THE RURAL SCIENCE SERIES 

Includes books which state the underlying principles 
of agriculture in plain language. They are suitable 
for consultation alike by the amateur or professional 
tiller of the soil, the scientist or the student, and are 
freely illustrated and finely made. 

The following volumes are now ready: 

THE SOIL. By F. H. King, of the University of Wisconsin. 303 pp. 45 
ilhistrations. 75 cents. 

THE FERTILITY OF THE LAND. By I. P. Roberts, of Cornell Univer- 
sity. Second edition. 421 pp. 45 illnstrations. $1.25. 

THE SPRAYING OF PLANTS. By E. G. Lodeman, late of Cornell Uni- 
versity. 399 pp. 92 illnstrations. $1. 

MILK AND ITS PRODUCTS. By H. H. Wing, of Cornell University. 
280 pp. 33 illnstrations. $1. 

THE PRINCIPLES OF FRUIT-GROWING. By L. H. Bailey. Second 
edition. 514 pp. 120 illnstrations. .$1.25. 

BUSH-FRUITS. By F. W. Card, of Rhode Island College of Agricnltnre 
and Mechanic Arts. 537 pp. 113 illustrations. $1.50. 

FERTILIZERS. By E. B. Voorhees, of New Jersey Experiment Station 
Second edition. 335 pp. $1. 

THE PRINCIPLES OF AGRICULTURE. By L. H. Bailey. Second edi- 
tion. 300 pp. 92 illnstrations. $1.25. 

IRRIGATION AND DRAINAGE. By F. H. King, University of Wisconsin. 
502 pp. 163 illnstrations. $1.50. 

THE FARMSTEAD. By T. P. Roberts. 350 pp. 138 illustrations. $1.25. 

RURAL WEALTH AND WELFARE. By George T. Fairchild, Ex-Presi- 
dent of the Agricultural College of Kansas. 381 pp. 14 charts. $1.25. 

New volumes will be added from time to time to 
the Rural Science Series. The following are in 
preparation : 

PRINCIPLES OF VEGETABLE GARDENING. By L. H. Bailey. In press. 

PHYSIOLOGY OF PLANTS. By J. C. Arthur, Purdue University. 

PRINCIPLES OF BREEDING OF ANIMALS. By W. H. Brewer, of 
Yale University. 

PLANT PATHOLOGY. By B. T. Galloway and associates of U. S. Depart- 
ment of Agriculture. 

FEEDING OF ANIMALS. By W. H. Jordan, of New York State Experi- 
ment Station. 

FARM POULTRY. By George 0. Watson, of Pennsylvania State College. 



THE GARDEN-CRAFT SERIES 

Comprises practical baud -books for tbe borticultur- 
ist, explaining and illustrating in detail tbe various 
imijortant metbods wbicb experience bas demon- 
strated to be tbe most satisfactory. Tbey may be 
called manuals of practice, and tbougb all are pre- 
pared by Professor Bailey, of Cornell University, 
tbey include tbe opinions and metbods of success- 
ful specialists in many lines, tbus combining tbe 
results of tbe observations and experiences of nu- 
merous students in tbis and otber lands. Tbey are 
written in tbe clear, strong, concise Englisb and in 
cbe entertaining style wbicb cbaracterize tbe autbor. 
Tbe volumes are compact, uniform in style, clearly 
printed, and illustrated as tbe subject demands. 
Tbey are of convenient sbape for tbe pocket, and 
aro snbstantiailv T)Ound in floxi})le frrcon clotb. 

THE HORTICULTURIST'S RULE-BOOK. By L. H. Bailey. Fourth 

edition. 312 pp- 75 cts. 
THE NURSERY-BOOK. By L. H. Bailev. Third edition. 365 pp. 152 

illustrations. $1. 

PLANT-BREEDING. By L. H. Bailey. 293 pp. 20 illustrations. $1. 
THE FORCING-BOOK. By L. H. Bailey. 266 pp. 8*8 iUustrations. $1. 

GARDEN-MAKING. By L. H. Bailey. Third edition. 417 pp. 2.56.illus- 

trations. $1. 

THE PRUNING-BOOK. By L. H. Bailey. Second edition. .>45 pp. 331 
illustrations. $1..S0. 

AMATEUR'S PRACTICAL GARDEN-BOOK. By C. E. Hukn and L. H. 
Bailey. 250 pp. Many marginal cuts. $1. 



WORKS BY PROFESSOR BAILEY 



HE EVOLUTION OF OUR NA- 

TIVE FRUITS. By L. H. BAILEY, Pro- 
fessor of Horticulture in the Cornell University. 

472 PACES— 125 ILLUSTRATIONS — $2.00 

In this entertaining volume, the origin and de- 
velopment of the fruits peculiar to North America 
are inquired into, and the personality of those horti- 
cultural pioneers whose almost forgotten labors 
have given us our most valuable fruits is touched 
upon. There has been careful research into the 
history of the various fruits, including inspection 
of the records of the great European botanists who 
have given attention to American economic botany. 
The conclusions reached, the information presented, 
and the suggestions as to future developments, can- 
not but be valuable to any thoughtful fruit-grower, 
while the terse style of the author is at its best in 
his treatment of the subject. 

The Evolution op our Native Fruits discusses The Rise of 
the American Grape (North America a Natural Vineland, Attempts 
to Cultivate the European Grape, The Experiments of the Dufours, 
The Branch of Promise, John Adlura and the Catawba, Rise of 
Commercial Viticulture, Why Did the Early Vine Experiments Fail I 
Synopsis of the American Grapes) ; The Strange Histoi-y of the Mul- 
berries (The Early Silk Industry, The "Multicaulis Craze,"); Evolu- 
tion of American Plums and Cherries (Native Plums in General, 
The Chickasaw, Hortulana, Marianna and Beach Plum Groups, 
Pacitic Coast Plum, Various Other Types of Plums, Native Cherries, 
Dwarf Cherry Group); Native Apples (Indigenous Species, Amelio- 
ration has begun); Origin of American Raspberry-growing (Early 
American History, Present Types, Outlying Types) ; Evolution of 
Blackberry and Dewberry Culture (The High-bush Blackberry and 
Its Kin, The Dewberries, Botanical Names); Various Types of 
Berry-like Fruits (The Gooseberry, Native Currants, Juneberry. 
Buffalo Berry, Elderberry, High-bush Cranberrj^ Cranberry, Straw- 
berry); Various Types of Tree Fruits (Persimmon, Custard-Apple 
Tribe, Thoru-Apples, Nut-Fruits) ; General Remarks on the Improve- 
ment of our Native Fruits (What Has Been Done, What Probably 
Should Be Done;. 



T 



WORKS BY PROFESSOR BAILEY 

HE SURVIVAL OF THE UNLIKE: 

A Collection of Evolution Essays Suggested 
by the Study of Domestic Plants. By L. H. 

BAILEY, Professor of Horticulture in the Cornell 
University. 

THIRD EDITION-51S PAGES — 22 ILLUSTRATIONS — $2.00 

To those interested in the underlying philosophy 
of plant life, this volume, written in a most enter- 
taining style, and fully illustrated, will prove wel- 
<3ome. It treats of the modification of plants under 
cultivation upon the evolution theory, and its atti- 
tude on this interesting subject is characterized 
by the author's well-known originality and inde- 
pendence of thought. Incidentally, there is stated 
much that will be valuable and suggestive to the 
Avorking horticulturist, as well as to the man or 
woman impelled by a love of nature to horticul- 
tural pursuits. It may well be called, indeed, a 
philosophy of horticulture, in which all interested 
may find inspiration and instruction. 

The Survival op the Unlike comprises thirty essays touching 
upon The General Fact and Philosophy of Evolution (The Plant 
Individual, Experimental Evolution, Coxey's Army and the Russian 
Thistle, Recent Progress, etc.); Expounding the Fact and Causes of 
Variation (The Supposed Correlations of Quality in Fruits, Natural 
His;tory of Synonyms, Reflective Impressions, Relation of Seed- 
bearing to Cultivation, Variation after Birth, Relation between 
American and Eastern Asian Fruits, Horticultural Geography, Prob- 
lems of Climate and Plants, American Fruits, Acclimatization, Sex 
in Fruits, Novelties, Promising Varieties, etc.); ar.d Tracing the 
Evolution of Particular Types of Plants (the Cultivated Strawberry, 
Battle of the Plums, Grapes, Progress of the Carnation, Petunia. 
The Garden Tomato, etc.). 



CYCLOPEDIA OF 
AMERICAN nORTIClLTURE 



COMPRISING DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTIVATION OF HORTICULTURAL 
CROPS, AND ORIGINAL DESCRIPTIONS OF ALL THE SPECIES OF 
FRUITS, VEGETABLES, FLOWERS AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS KNOWN 
TO BE IN THE MARKET IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA 

By L. H. bailey 

ASSISTED BY MANY EXPERT CULTIVATORS AND BOTANISTS 

In Four Quarto Volumes, 
Illustrated with over Two Thousand Original Engravings 

THIS monumental work, the most comprehensive 
review of the vegetable world yet made by an 
American, is now in the press. Though distinctly 
an American work, not only plants indigenous to 
the North American continent are mentioned, but 
also all the species known to be in the horticul- 
tural trade in North America, of whatever origin. 
It is really a survey of the cultivated plants of the 
world. 

The Editor, Professor L. H. Bailey, has been 
gathering material for this Cyclopedia for many 
years. He has enlisted the cooperation of men of 
attainments, either in science or practice every wlieie, 
and the Cyclopedia has the unique distinction of 
presenting for the first time, in a carefully arranged 
and perfectly accessible form, the best knowledge of 
the best specialists in America upon gardening, 
fruit-growing, vegetable culture, forestry, and the 



like, as well as exact botanical information. It is 
all fresh, and not a rehash of old material. No 
precedent has been followed ; the work is upon its 
own original plan. 

Many scientific botanical authors of justly high 
repute decline to give attention to the important 
characters of cultivated plants, confining their work 
to the species in the original forms only. Pro- 
fessor Bailey takes the view that a subject of com- 
mercial importance, one which engages the attention 
and affects the livelihood of thousands of bright 
people, is decidedly worthy the investigation of the 
trained botanist. In the Cyclopedia of American 
Horticulture, therefore, very full accounts are given 
of the botanical features of all important commercial 
plants, as the apple, cabbage, rose, etc. At the same 
time, practical cultivators submit observations upon 
culture, marketing, and the like, and frequently two 
opinions are presented upon the same subject from 
different localities, so that the reader may have 
before him not only complete botanical information, 
but very fully the best practice in the most favor- 
able localities for the perfection of any fruit or 
vegetable or economic plant. 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

The pictorial character of the work is likewise 
notable. There are over two thousand illustrations, 
and they are all made expressly for this work, either 
from accurate photographs or from the specimens. 
These illustrations have been drawn by competent 



horticultural artists, in nearly every case under the 
eye of the Editor, or with the supervision of some 
one of the sub -editors. No "trade" cuts are used. 

En planning the illustrations, artistic effect has 
been kept in view, and while no drawing is used 
which does not show its subject with perfect scien- 
tific accuracy, the monotonous so-called "botanical" 
outlines, often made from lifeless herbarium speci- 
mens, are notably absent. The intention is to show 
the life of the plant, not merely its skeleton. 

CONTRIBUTORS, SYSTEM, ETC. 

As above mentioned, the contributors are men 
eminent as cultivators or as specialists on the various 
subjects. The important articles are signed, and it 
is expected that the complete work will include fully 
5,000 signed contributions by horticulturists, culti- 
vators and botanists. 

The arrangement is alphabetical as to the genera, 
but systematic in the species. A very simple but 
complete plan of key -letters is used, and the whole 
arrangement is toward ease of reference as well as 
completeness of information. To each large genus 
there is a separate alphabetic index. 

Important commercial subjects are treated usually 
under the best known name, whether it be the 
scientific or "common" designation. Thus, the apple 
is fully discussed as apple, rather than as Pyriis 
Mains, and the carnation comes into view in the 
third letter of the alphabet, not as Bianthus Caryo- 
phyllus. Carefully edited cross-references make it 



easy to find any desired subject, however, in the 
shortest time. 

The plan of presenting the full details of cul- 
ture of important plants, through the views of 
acknowledged practical experts upon the various 
subjects, assures the great value of the book to the 
man or woman who is obtaining a living from 
horticultural pursuits. 

A special feature of the Cyclopedia of American 
Horticulture is its wealth of bibliographic reference. 
The world's horticultural literature has been thor- 
oughly searched, and most carefully indexed, so that 
the student will find citations to every available 
article or illustration upon any subject consulted. 

DETAILS or PUBLICATION 

The Cyclopedia of American Horticulture is to 
be completed in four handsome quarto volumes, 
embracing about two thousand pages, with more 
than that number of original illustrations. It is 
carefully printed upon specially made paper of a 
permanent character. The first volume (A to D, 
509 ])ages, 743 illustrations, 9 plates) is now ready, 
and the work is expected to be completed during the 
year 1900. 

The w^ork is sold only by subscription, and 
orders w^ill be accepted for the full set only. 
Terms and further information may be had of 
the Publishers, 

THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

No. 66 Fifth Avenue NEW YORK 



WORKS BY PROFESSOR BAILEY 

LESSONS WITH PLANTS: Surges- 
tions for Seeing and Interpreting Some of 
the Common Forms of Vegetation. By L. 
H. BAILEY, Professor of Horticulture in the Cornell 
University, with delineations from nature by W. S. 
HOLDSWORTH, of the Agricultural College of 
Michigan. 

SECOND EOITION-491 PACES-446 ILLUSTRATIONS— 1 2 MO- 
CLOTH— SI. 10 NET 

There are two ways of looking at nature. The 
old way, which you have found so unsatisfactory, 
was to classify everything — to consider leaves, roots, 
and whole plants as formal herbarium specimens, 
forgetting that each had its own story of growth 
and development, struggle and success, to tell. 
Nothing stifles a natural love for x)lants more effect- 
ually thad that old way. 

The new way is to watch the life of every grow- 
ing thing, to look upon each plant as a living 
creature, whose life is a story as fascinating as the 
story of any favorite hero. "Lessons with Plants" 
is a book of stories, or rather, a book of plays, for 
we can see each chapter acted out if we take the 
trouble to looh at the actors. 

" I have spent some time in most deliglitfiil examination of it, and the 
longer I look, the better I like it. I find it not only full of interest, but 
eminently suggestive. I know of no book which begins to do so much to 
open the eyes of the student —whether pupil or teacher — to the wealth of 
meaning contained in simple plant forms. Above all else, it seems to be 
full of suggestions that help one to learn the language of plants, so they 
may talk to him."— Darwin L. Bardwell, Superintetident of Schools, Bing- 
hamton. 

"It is an admirable book, and cannot fail both to awaken interest m 
the subject, and to serve as a helpful and reliable guide to young students 
of plant life. It will, I think, fill an important place in secondary schools, 
and comes at an opportune time, when helps of this kind are needed and 
eagerly sought."— Professor V. M. Spat.ding, University of Michigan. 

FIRST LESSONS WITH PLANTS 

An Abridgement of the above. 117 pages— 116 illustra- 
tions — 40 cents net. 



1900 



